How to beat the fear of falling? 1. Find a belayer that knows what they are doing.
@tynunya62584 жыл бұрын
Yeah I would NEVER trust that belayer!
@sherwoac4 жыл бұрын
What a terrible video to demo this. Too much blah and bad belaying?
@jeroenfeher81076 жыл бұрын
Today : A tutorial on how to roast the belayer
@jamesdavis54243 жыл бұрын
Just getting into climbing, and this was a great video on how not to belay. Actually learned things to avoid.
@PetrFlosman5 жыл бұрын
This video should be an instructional how NOT to belay. If his wasn't a GriGri that climber would be dead.
@PboiStrider4 жыл бұрын
Look at the last fall, he lifts his right hand up along with the rope
@dereks70613 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I think on the jump one, he literally has both hands ABOVE his belay device. It has to be a gri-gri... and that's a ton of trust on that piece of gear 🤣
@joinjanis69862 жыл бұрын
Belayer not tunneling but letting go the rope completely…ouch. Take a course
@jekmoha35 жыл бұрын
I wasn't afraid of falling but now I am...
@AmBockshorn6 жыл бұрын
How the beat the fear of falling with the worst belayer one can find xD
@flybeep16616 жыл бұрын
Joe H If you don't have anything to argue with....pick on grammar, that should teach him. You showed him good.
@mikohayle5 жыл бұрын
I think you could do with doing this video again with an actual trained belayer
@sqlb3rn6 жыл бұрын
the slack in that last fall looks pretty ridiculous to me. if he was my belayer, I'd be like wtf are you doing?
@brucebanner66296 жыл бұрын
sqlb3rn segfavlt thought exactly the same thing! I see this all the time on youtube...they give WAY to much slack, dangerous in theory(possible deck)
@SuperAhmed13376 жыл бұрын
For huge overhangs/roofs more slack can be helpful to avoid hitting the wall. I agree the belayer is sloppy, but without seeing the whole scenario it's hard to judge if this is really too much slack. Another issue is the footwear here. Can't run or break in flip-flops.
@hellogoodbye6375 жыл бұрын
He is also standing WAAAY too far from the wall
@babuskarashuka86515 жыл бұрын
seriously he made that guy drop a lot of feet before catching
@floewqua3 жыл бұрын
That was the entire point of the fall.
@kabome6 жыл бұрын
Wow, you'd get your lead pass pulled at my gym if you belayed like that... Standing too far away from the wall, constantly defeating the cam to feed rope, not jumping into the fall, way way too much slack, letting go of the brake side of the rope constantly...
@sFxEquinox1156 жыл бұрын
seriously, this guy was horrible
@dereks70613 жыл бұрын
Came here to get over falling... took notes on how NOT to belay 🤣
@vikeskie3 жыл бұрын
@Otto Couper poor climbing etiquette
@mandyrey71222 жыл бұрын
How do you feed rope with a gri gri? Floss? in my gym i was taught to use a thumb on the cam when you're feeding out slack.
@KelseyBeePink5 жыл бұрын
The fall at 4:26 gave me a heart attack omg he had no control
@WayneBaillie-in4ko Жыл бұрын
The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. kzbin.infoUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.
@Totalavulsion5 жыл бұрын
If you can take falls without fear with that belayer then you’re probably good to begin soloing
@BenM4 жыл бұрын
not much difference lmaoo
@marlorsy4 жыл бұрын
@@BenM Brilliant answer. That made me laugh!
@n3v3rd1e6 жыл бұрын
What a terrible belayer
@JacquesBoum6 жыл бұрын
Immediately notice that, too! WTF
@edledskal91475 жыл бұрын
I'm a novice climber and immediately could point out what the belayer was doing wrong. Terrible job, he was quite literally doing nothing but waiting.
@sebsmith13215 жыл бұрын
n3v3rd1e it makes me anxious to watch him!
@olivia43945 жыл бұрын
n3v3rd1e so much slack and so far from the wall!
@damiensmith83514 жыл бұрын
@@olivia4394 he also lifted his dead rope hand above the belay device when he got dragged in, you can see it go slack, he must of been using an assisted locking device, if it failed or he was just using an atc the rope would of started feeding and his hand would of been pulled into it. I'd rather go on an auto belay than have him.
@SmeeGuitar5 жыл бұрын
can you show someone that belays correctly on a video about falling and belaying please?
@aj18076 жыл бұрын
My gym would revoke a belay card for pulling something like what you see at 11:38
@jimbofacer33525 жыл бұрын
That look scary. But if I knew he would get me it would be fun.
@kasuk6 жыл бұрын
I have a fear of falling. And - although I liked the video - it has just heightened my fear
@sFxEquinox1156 жыл бұрын
seriously - watching this belayer gives me anxiety.
@dereks70613 жыл бұрын
Right 🤣 just took my first lessons on lead, this was scarier.
@KrisYavorsky6 жыл бұрын
I think the belayer could use a lesson on proper technique while using a grigri and catching a fall properly so he doesn't faceplant into the wall..
@lachlannossiter54626 жыл бұрын
4:28 lucky that was a GriGri hahaha
@doppelcorn16 жыл бұрын
If you look closely you can actually see, that he didnt let go of the rope, so everything was fine. But even before that you could see that the belayer let go of the rope for a brief moment to reach deeper... bad habits you may develop while using a GriGri
@AdamLewis16 жыл бұрын
I think the comment was referring to him bringing the brake strand UP rather than keeping it locked in the brake position. If you brought your hand up like that on a tube device, especially during a fall, you'd likely lose control of the rope.
@lachlannossiter54626 жыл бұрын
Adam Lewis Spot on ;)
@begs13076 жыл бұрын
indeed, he was too far from the wall. he got thrown off balance.
@marek_tarnawski6 жыл бұрын
I was taught not to stand so far away from the wall when belaying so that I don't run towards it when there is fall (like in this video). In gym it might be easier to move but outdoors you could have rocks on your way.
@leoingson6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for posting and commenting. Neither climber nor belayer are actually knowing what they are doing. Quite scary.
@RonaldoMessina6 жыл бұрын
0:02:23 yep let go of that end of the rope o.O this is so bad belaying there should be a warning somewhere. Relying too much on the belay device just gives you bad practices. You really need a solid belayer when working on fear of falling.
@firstname_lastname35076 жыл бұрын
Imagine setting a route in that place
@smileyforeverful6 жыл бұрын
your videos are so awesome!!! I love how you analyze a lot of the small details people usually miss, or dont think about at all. I've followed a lot of your advice over the past year or so and its helped my climbing so much :] :]
@johanrodriguez7692 Жыл бұрын
Hey Mani, would be great if you can do falling techniques for bouldering too! A few things that dont get addressed in other tutorials are: falling sideways, falling face first, how to practice, etc.
@geckojudo20246 жыл бұрын
Awesome analysis of the belayer and the falls both - I liked the side-by-side video of both the belayer and the climber as these falls were occurring so that it can be seen what is happening during the fall from both perspectives. I think a dedicated video to belaying properly is definitely a great idea, Mani! Thanks for this one! Very valuable information!!!
@NatetheAceOfficial6 жыл бұрын
Geez, that last fall made me shiver.
@patriciamoncayo46612 жыл бұрын
I love learning from you. Thank you. I’m a retired person learning to climb.
@dcopestake6 жыл бұрын
I feel like it would have been useful to actually show some dynamic belaying as a comparison to the belayer in the video who - by your own admission - didn’t seem to be doing it all the time. Definitely an interesting topic though, fear of falling is something I definitely struggle with, especially when climbing outdoors.
@ca.elizabeth6 жыл бұрын
Working on it. After falling and breaking my arm i was very afraid to start bouldering and rope climbing again. Actually rope seemed to be less scary than bouldering. Took good 4 months of constant training and pushing myself to do more challeging and not so confortable walls to gain mental confidence and trust in myself. I guess that pushing yourself a bit by bit, observing others, how they move, grip and move towards solution through their success and fails is helping alot. Now I am still scared of some overhangs some tiny grips when they are very high, but I dont end up quiting half way up.
@JohnChadAnthonyFlea6 жыл бұрын
For us, the "no short rope -rule" was very helpful in the beginning. When we started lead-climbing, as soon as we got insecure on the wall the belayer took us on short rope, therefore we did never get into situations were a fall was actually a quite likely possibility. At some point we began to introduce the rule: either stick the route or the move or fall, there is no easy way out. Though as it was quite scary at the beginning, we gained a lot of confidence very very fast!
@williamstynes98826 жыл бұрын
I personally don’t have a fear of falling but definitely will be recommending this video to a lot of people
@prusikmallorca6 жыл бұрын
12:36 not the best shoes for a belayer...attention with the handling of the rope belaying, don't grab the active rope and pasive rope hand down. Very good video and analysis. ;)
@dichebach5 жыл бұрын
Holy crap, I hope I never have a belayer that incompetent.
@brittanyloomis66566 жыл бұрын
Looking forward to the dynamic belaying video. My husband and I just started climbing together this month and we belay for one another at the gym. We’re both learning and I know our belays for one another have been...interesting...at times :D Thanks for all the helpful info, especially your beginner tips.
@AdamLewis16 жыл бұрын
Nice video Mani! What gym is this?
@-theJoker-5 жыл бұрын
I'd definitely discourage getting away from the wall while belaying a lead climber. In case of fall the belayer will be pulled almost horizontally towards the wall, resulting in potential injuries in case he loses balance, let alone the chance to lose grip on the rope with a non-blocking device. Better to stay below the first protection and jump accordingly for a soft catch.
@peiyiliao92556 жыл бұрын
Lieber Mani, könntest du auch ein Video über "Fear of falling in bouldering" machen? Es wäre super, servus!
@maybeageek6 жыл бұрын
I second that! Vielleicht mit richtiger und falscher Spotting Technik?
@boulderingnoobs82796 жыл бұрын
Top video as per. I love how even a belayer can be dynamic!
@polarfoxbrrr39103 жыл бұрын
2:25 casually throwing away the "bremsseil" props for that edit: ok he is doing it all the time props for that
@Typhoonbladefist6 жыл бұрын
Besides the issues mentioned, the belayer is also way too far away from the wall.
@JohnChadAnthonyFlea6 жыл бұрын
Thorsten still looks quite relaxed even though he is so full of hate!
@Javaz0wn5 жыл бұрын
great video! but horrible belayer. after the big fall in the end he really let go the breaking hand off the rope. even with a grigri 2, thats an absolutely NO.FUCKING.GO. apart from that, no trace of dynamic belaying.
@pdude19116 жыл бұрын
Great video, dude! Greets from The Netherlands!
@alexbarcovsky43192 жыл бұрын
After seeing this belayer, I can confirm my fear of falling has increased :D
@TitchPunk6 жыл бұрын
Amazing video !!! I wish I saw it before going climbing out XD
@MrPILI866 жыл бұрын
Thumbs up for the video. Very interesting and useful. Thanks for it!
@davidobrien97726 жыл бұрын
I generally enjoy your videos but I found this one to be lacking for the same reasons others have posted. The belayer chosen made a lot of errors. Even though you pointed them out in the video, it would have been a more instructional video if you had gotten a competent belayer. If my partner belayed me like that, I would be finding a new partner.
@ArianysWilson6 жыл бұрын
I agree, this was way too much slack on the last fall. The belayer almost hit his face on the wall. Could you address for next time the weight difference between climber and belayer, please? Especially when the climber is much lighter than the belayer, the heavy belayer should jump more (what's the ideal time to jump?) for a softer catch.
@56amcomte3 жыл бұрын
I am looking for a fall session to show my climbers and belayers how to deal with fear of falling. But this belayer is so bad that I cannot use it. Letting go of the rope, too much rope hanging, not paying attention, trusting the device (yes grigri do fail) are a few of all the mistakes he makes. Would be nice to see good belayers sometimes. I would have the fear of that belayer if I was the climber
@briandickey42766 жыл бұрын
Btw, I love your videos an analysis. I was just starting lead climbing and pondering the need for this kind fear of falling training. I'll think I'll use this pattern.
@felixmi30296 жыл бұрын
Das Video ist richtig gut! Weiter so! Ich bin gespannt auf das Video in Bezug auf dynamisches Sichern, geh bitte besonders auf das Thema Schlappseil ein! Ich sehe viel zu viel Schlappseil in den Hallen und das meistens noch kombiniert mit einem großen Abstand zur Wand.
@LachlanGB6 жыл бұрын
Ooft I wish the belayer jumped into the catches a bit more that looks painful
@leomaurer332310 ай бұрын
Heftig! Cooles Training!
@AnonymousAGgaming Жыл бұрын
Grigiri or not, that last catch could have been lethal. Never put your brake hand above the belay device when someone falls.
@AurianRt6 жыл бұрын
Great video ! for those who are interesseted about this topic fear of falling you can also check the Day In Nature channel where they did a lot comparison with the differents dynamic catch technics...
@jasiekcha42996 жыл бұрын
Very useful video like always ❤
@ManitheMonkey6 жыл бұрын
So much for now, I hope I can get the dynamic belaying video done soon. Until then stay strong and stay safe, and for those heretics who like to skip stuff some quicklinks: Theory: 1:12 Practice: 4:49 Climbers Impression of this Training: 13:25
@AdamLewis16 жыл бұрын
Mani the Monkey What gym is this?
@1968mac14 жыл бұрын
And that’s the last time they climbed together!
@bahtiyarozdere93035 жыл бұрын
When the belayer throws the rope away with break hand :D
@felixd11276 жыл бұрын
With respect to the last wiper, I hope you guys did realy know what you were doing! Anyway, appreciate your effort and now please teach the belayer to become better than just holding the grigri in his hands. Btw, did he use a Grigri? Happened to me when I was falling my girlfriend was pulled towards the rock and she tried to protect herselfe from impact by taking hands of the Grigri against the wall (like the guy in the video) which is a spontaneous reaction. Not having a Grigri here would have ended pretty badly for me...cheers!
@ManitheMonkey6 жыл бұрын
Yes, he used a Grigri, which is what I always recommend doing. What you described is quite common and yet another reason why a Grigri outplays many other belaying devices.
@felixd11276 жыл бұрын
Mani the Monkey And now I will get the Grigri 2+, since having this anti-panic function on board turned out to be important for (at least) me ;-) Once during lowering my buddy, I have had the rope kinked and the braking rope somehow got out of my right hand. For whatever reason I pulled the handle fully back ... and my buddy droped on the deck.... luckily from one meter above. The 2+ will preclude this. I have tested this function and it works fine for me.
@ManitheMonkey6 жыл бұрын
If you pull the grigri+ lever back completely (beyond the anti panic position) it will open again and the rope will keep sliding through. Not a good feature in my opinion. In my opinion the best belaying device out there is still the Grigri2. I should actually make a video discussing the topic of belaying devices a bit more in depth.
@felixd11276 жыл бұрын
Mani the Monkey Hey Mani, Well, this is what they said in the www. That it will open again by pulling the lever further back. Yes it does so. But, when I tested it, I recognized that you need significant more force to re-open it. In my opinion it works pretty fine. Did you use the grigri+ by yourself?
@Tormentor6 жыл бұрын
Well Mani, this may be a malfunction or damage to your grigri+ then. Mine will not open again past the panic function. HOWEVER! I would recommend using ropes of at least 9mm in it, since the thinner ones (could test this with my dad's 8.5mm rope) will not trigger an auto block, especially when they are new. In that case you can, under no circumstances, let go of the brake rope, which you could do with thicker ropes, but still should never do.
@John-jg4vi6 жыл бұрын
Cool video! How would you suggest training away fear of falling when on a bouldering wall?
@jjochimm6 жыл бұрын
wth? lesson number 1: NEVER let go of the rope
@verticalnetwork16 жыл бұрын
Cooles Video! Wenn du Sturztraining gegen die Angst machst, musst du es regelmässig tun und über einen langen Zeitraum. Danke fürs sharen und auch nen Dank an die Kollegen, das du es veröffentlichen darfst!:)
@bergsteirer6 жыл бұрын
Gut gemachtes Video.
@crimpychris6 жыл бұрын
Nice vid Mani
@Kyle_climbing6 жыл бұрын
I certainly enjoyed this video and learned some really good lead climbing things from it, especially on that largest fall, but I struggle greatly with fear of falling from higher bouldering heights and it shuts me down on maneuvers that should be easy. Am I the only one? Could you make a video of getting over this. I climb as high as V5.
@thisisgettingold2 жыл бұрын
If you still climb I bet you have moved on past V5 😊
@dereks70613 жыл бұрын
This belayer made my heart race and hands sweat 🤣
@willemjohannes90075 жыл бұрын
There is literally no situation where the belayer should be giving out so much slack that the rope is resting on the ground. The only reason Torstein doesn't hit the wall on the last fall is because it's like 30 meters away from him to begin with.
@FragCool6 жыл бұрын
Have you changed the rope after each fall? At least changed the ends? There is a huge difference if you take a second fall shortly after the first in the same end of the rope. It is still stretched from the catch before and therefor isn't as elastic as possible. And Thorsten is gaining some hate ;)
@felixd11276 жыл бұрын
If you want to know what happened to a pro-climber taking a huge fall and belayed statically (belayer is lashed to the ground, so dynamic belaying is not possible), check this out: Dave Macleod climbing/falling on Rhapsody. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5_RdZ-foc-qp6c Dave got his ankle injured due to a massive impact to the wall...
@bifty96 жыл бұрын
Good Topic. Good Falls, but very bad Belayer! Your Comments are good but i wish next time there would be examples of good dynamic belaying. But i have to say: i like yout documentations about climbing! Please go on!
@rishabhanand4973 Жыл бұрын
recently started lead. While I still have that fear of falling, my belayers have been good, and my falls have been soft (tbf, me outweighing them by a fair amount basically guarantees a soft catch), my main fear is undoing progress and having to climb a hard portion of the route again but with less energy. Though i guess it's good to geet those kinds of reps in
@lachlannossiter54626 жыл бұрын
I was belaying a friend of mine today who's an absolute beast and weighs 30kgs more than me.. Was my first time ever flying feet-first to the quickdraw ;)
@neo7786 жыл бұрын
Lachlan Nossiter How do you deal with the weight difference? Z, Ohm, weight or just use your feet jumping towards the wall?
@lachlannossiter54626 жыл бұрын
It's not really too much of an issue. I just make my best effort to jump back into my harness when he falls so that I can create a little more weight on my end. I make a pretty soft catch though! ;)
@granolagasoline27254 жыл бұрын
Ouch! Hard catch.
@victordemoor50076 жыл бұрын
Hey Mani, great video, but what if for example: I'm a belayer and my weight is like 15-20kg less then my climbing partner, and when he falls i already got pulled to the wall really fast. are the catching jumps really nesessery then? or just more dangerous for my own.
@Tormentor6 жыл бұрын
Get an Edelrid Ohm then. Yes it is somewhat expensive, but it really benefits lighter belayers.
@ManitheMonkey6 жыл бұрын
That's a lot of difference. An Ohm could indeed help in that situation, or for example z-clipping in the neighbour route (at the start). No need to jump then, it's actually quite a lot easier to belay dynamically when you are lighter than your partner (and harder the other way around unfortunately).
@abuzarov4 жыл бұрын
How is the extra slack gonna make the fall more dynamic? It's not logical
@typhwomp76864 жыл бұрын
Everyone chatting beef about the belayer but i think he is doing that on purpose so the climber takes a bigger fall and then the climber gets used to it more
@_sl36006 жыл бұрын
Would you have any tips for fear of falling... in the context of semi-noobs on blocs? I'm just climbing indoors and while overhangs are pretty much ok I get a bit shaky as I get some height on slabs, especially the more angled they are, and/or when the route has me twisting away from parallel. Often times I don't feel like I can trust the footholds too much and a slip means potential faceplants into the wall and/or holds :). Topping out is an issue as well. I can't just avoid slabs - I need the climbing meters at this point, barely getting out of the 4 and into the 5 range (french scale). Any tips appreciated - and thanks for your technique videos which have helped me in my recent progress btw :)
@EuVray6 жыл бұрын
Falls on slab are scary, but not necessarily dangerous. You just need to have the reflex of pushing yourself off the wall while falling (which is in my opinion quite a natural thing to do once you've been climbing for a while). You can train by taking a few falls at bolt level, then slowly increase the distance to your last clip and do it again. I think the trigger for me was to take falls on slabs outdoor, and realizing that there is nothing to be really afraid of. For sure, don't fall chin first, or you might lose a few teeth :p
@_sl36006 жыл бұрын
Wild East Climbing : I may not have been optimally clear about the type of climbing - just bouldering, no quick draws, rope or belayers to be seen due to the low height. (not much higher than the 45er at Mani's gym for example). The routes are short but the setters make you reach and twist more than what I've seen of indoor rope around the 6 grade, so I feel just pushing away is a bit tricky sometimes. I need to get past my worries there before even considering rope :D Thanks though!
@EuVray6 жыл бұрын
Haha, I totally understand. No later than two days ago I was on a slab boulder problem like this. With a tiny foot hold not bigger than a nail, on which I had to put all my body weight and stand up. Although I climbed up to v7, I did not feel confident at all... So don't worry too much about that ! Maybe you can try first to put your weight on these foot holds while keeping good jugs in your hands, and slowly release all your weight into your feet. Just to prove yourself that you can actually stand on these razor edge crimps ;) Best way to practice this type of problems would be to go to Fontainebleau in France, hardest top outs from sloppy boulders you could imagine ! :p
@_sl36006 жыл бұрын
Wild East Climbing i live in the area and have been a few times last summer - it's super nice but definitely agree on the thin edges, couldn't get up anything! The setters here seem very influenced by Font, even at lower levels they like to make you work with very little :D Will try letting go a bit, cheers
@mandyrey71222 жыл бұрын
that last fall was so big! i would have been so afraids!
@oSUP3RM4No6 жыл бұрын
Looks like an awesome space. Can you link their website or Instagram please? As always, an insightful and helpful video!
@illduitmyself4 жыл бұрын
for those of you hating on the belayer...they were doing that on purpose for fall training...
@sofialai47882 жыл бұрын
If someone was belaying me like that I'd become afraid of falling again...
@arpudli8962 Жыл бұрын
With that much slack if the quickdraw fails for some reason you are dead, especially if you fall while clipping
@TOMMYOOST7 ай бұрын
The way your friend on the floor is belaying would never be allowed where i climb, way too loose with the rope, only holding it with a few fingers on top of the grigri. Never rely on those things, always a full hand on the dead rope.
@poppyh76873 жыл бұрын
I am even more scared of falling after watching this video 😱
@hellogoodbye6375 жыл бұрын
Why did the climber skip so many clips!!!???? Especially at fall 5???
@CoireFox4 жыл бұрын
Petzl made a video titled "The World's Worst Belayer" - they recently found this video and facepalmed for wasting all that money. He's wearing FLIP-FLOPS ffs...
@XD-nj7bc6 жыл бұрын
Oh wow wusste nicht das du Deutsch sprichst. Ich fände es noch cool wenn du noch ein paar ziemlich perfekte Stürze mit dynamischem auffangen zeigen könntest.
@ManitheMonkey6 жыл бұрын
Werde daran definitiv im dynamic belaying video arbeiten.
@Harry746136 жыл бұрын
Hi Mani. Vielleicht kannst du dann auch noch was zur richtigen Position des Sicherers sagen. Wann sollte dieser unter dem Kletterrer stehen, wann daneben, wann weiter bzw. wann weniger weit von der Wand entfernt. Das würde mich als Sichernden ziemlich weiter bringen. Ein Paar Worte zum Schluss: Deine Videos gefallen mir echt gut und habe mich bisher echt weiter gebracht. Dafür vielen lieben Dank. :)
@Ligmamonkey6 жыл бұрын
I'm only spooked of falling when bouldering.
@mikelautensack73516 жыл бұрын
I have never had any problem with fear of falling or at least if i do it goes away after 1 test fall BUT! I still get nurvous about taking ground falls after 1 first bold or while clipping a low 2nd or 3rd draw. Is there any way that you can deal with the fear that there is a very real chance you will hit the ground if you fall cliping the second bold.
@bernhardlangers7785 жыл бұрын
Hardly. Also depends a lot. Outdoors the second bolt is often quite far up, even the first one might be. A possible, yet dangerous, idea for a gym might be to put a crash pad in place and take some falls with just the first draw clipped. This requires a very very good belayer you can trust (no dynamic catches, ideally the belayer should exceed you in weight) and a very conservative approach, meaning falling very near the Quickdraw initially and slowly increasing fall height. A better alternative is to jump on the route in top rope, check out the moves and build the confidence. I have led several routes without knowing even the grade beforehand, just by looking at them and feeling confident enough. Yet, there have been some sketchy situations in which the route turned out to be harder than expected. I would say it is a matter of experience and teamwork. If you can trust the belayer and the fall will be controlled (as in you can announce it) there shouldn't be too much harm coming your way. Just stay rational and calculate your fall before making the decision to climb it.
@wheelbegood6 жыл бұрын
great vid
@Drinkyoghurt6 жыл бұрын
@12:38 is he releasing the brake??? I see he has a Grigri but I doubt that would've held the fall with an ATC or tuber
@RealOctaris6 жыл бұрын
Mani! Du warst in meiner Heimhalle und ich habs nicht geschafft dich zu treffen! :( schade!! Bist öfter in Mitterdorf? Mach weiter so ich schau deine vids extrem gern. Erklärst super ^^
@ManitheMonkey6 жыл бұрын
freut mich, so ab dem 22.3. herum wieder dann geht dort der instruktor weiter.
@bdogstone22215 жыл бұрын
Who else watching this doesn’t have a fear of falling it was just in your recommended
@marceldevilliers87106 жыл бұрын
Very curious, are falls like these bad for your rope?
@Foxfool2286 жыл бұрын
Marcel De Villiers Depends on a few factors. Generally no, but continuous big falls on a rope without letting the nylon rest to its manufactured length will reduce the dynamic extension of the rope. In other words, it won't catch as soft or be as strong if you overdo it. Others: feel free to correct me or add on if I missed something
@marceldevilliers87106 жыл бұрын
Dudemanbrobearpig Thank you for your reply. This is very helpful. I am new to the climbing scene.
@krzysztofukawski23486 жыл бұрын
For future reference. Fall factor is important when determining how severe fall was. It is ratio of fall height to rope length (range 0 to 2). You want to avoid 2 at all cost :) Ropes are certified with fall factor ~1.8 (which is really hard). Usually single ropes are proofed to properly arrest (with force absorption ) around 6-7 such falls (CHECK data sheet!!!). After that you should not use it any more. However usually falls have much lower fall factor, so don't worry about it. Just let it rest (like use the other end for a while after a bigger fall). A bit more reading: www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Fall-factor-and-impact-force---theory Stay safe.
@Sturzfaktor26 жыл бұрын
And the scenario used for the certification is specifically chosen to make it virtually impossible to achieve the same in a real climbing situation. Fall factors > 1 only happen in multi-pitch routes when the climber falls below the anchor.
@Szynszula6 жыл бұрын
He don't look like he has any fear of falling, he is jumping almost immediately ... I've managed 4 times only to jump from like 30cm above the quickdraw and it took me like 2 min to jump off. I think much better option is doing routes which are on the edge of our abilities, trying not to think if you're above or below the quickdraw, just climb, do a lot of dynamics moves, one day you will do mistake (hold will be a sloper, you thought from below, that it was a jug) and fall off. It also encourages me to do hard moves above the quickdraw and even if I don't fall it's a great metal training for me. I was trying taking safety practise falls, but I only jumped when bolt was in line of my hips, then I climbed again, got stuck there for 10min and cried XD It is not working for me.
@klnv80205 жыл бұрын
holy shit is this a 101 on how not to belay
@Frostweather3 жыл бұрын
I usually watch videos in x2 speed to save time and I turn on subtitles in case I can't hear what the speaker is saying. Boy was I laughing when the video came to the part when you guys were speaking German and the automatic subtitles continued in English. This was Joe Biden level of majestic gibberish
@Fleischmann7733 жыл бұрын
Been climbing for about two months an without reading the comments i can draw the conclusion that this is not how to belay in a safe way.
@Monaistmeinliebling6 жыл бұрын
Wow this is actually a terrible example of belaying. I mean i don't really care what you do in your private time concerning climbing and belaying. But since you're showing and introducing climbing to an audience and have a prototypical function i think you really shouldn't show a belayer like that in a video. This is far away from being safe. Multiple errors like letting go of the breaking side of the rope, standing way to far from the wall, paing out too much slack, spiking the climber and creating very hard falls, defeating the cam to pay out slack... To all the people out there who are getting into climbing, please don't take this video as an example for a good fall training!
@diemdem30765 жыл бұрын
Same opinion here. Since you are showing educational videos in the per se sensitive field of climbing/belaying etc. everything you show/teach must be (nearly) perfect imo. (Just imagine a novice climber assumes after watching that´s the way you can go for it ...). This belayer, omg, just beyond belief. I assume you are an Austrian Alpine Club instructor or the like. So you definitely know better for sure. Ok, enough of being a smart-arse here. I can imagine how complex it might be to get the proper setup for a video like this. Otherwise I like your channel very much.