How to Belay Dynamically: Common Mistakes | Beginner Advice | Fear of Falling

[@Wockerable]

quick reminder: the belayer also should also always wear a helmet while climbing in nature, since there is no prevention from a stone or parts of the rock falling down.

[@UnicycleSoul]

Honestly, I've had more need for a helmet as a belayer than as a climber. Usually when you're climbing, you're the one "throwing rocks" down the wall by accident and the belayer is the recipient.

[@ryancomer725]

@@UnicycleSoul I completely agree, I am always nervous if my belayer chooses not to wear a helmet ... if I knock down a rock big enough to knock them out I doubt their hand will fall on the break end!

[@toddoskin]

Agreed, I always thought it's better for belayer to at least have a helmet for falling rock /gear/etc. Certainly doesn't hurt to wear one as a climber too... I've seen people flip upside down and bonk their head... It happens... But if I had 1 helmet , I'd have belayer wear it (especially if they are using an ATC and not a gri gri).

[@Monscent]

@@ryancomer725 thats why u need a grigri..

[@elif.tosun13]

Most comprehensive and informative (and also "free") guide to dynamic belaying on internet so far! Amazing job, thanks a lot!

[@Ferrari353]

I recently learned the danger of grabbing your knot in a fall. I took a fall last month and grabbed the knot. The tip of my pinky got caught in the knot and the knot tightened down hard on my pinky. It forced the nail into the tip of my finger and gave me a nasty flapper on the pad. Thanks for the great content, Mani!

[@ManitheMonkey]

Complex Topic, Long Video, so here are some chapters: Definition and Purpose: 0:50 The Importance of Timing: 6:00 The 3 Methods to give a Dynamic Catch: 12:40 Hope you've got something from the video, let me know if you did, and I'll see you soon!

[@BatuYangHidup]

Great video. Idea for the part about holding knot or not. Not holding you said can help protect your head. How about wearing helmet always even when sport climbing? Freak accidents happen. Especially outdoors

[@nic_20043]

Very good approach to being educational. Considering what the viewers may NOT already know, showing that what you're talking about is important with real examples, calculating out the time you can expect for falls with equations instead of just making something up, etc.

[@davidsmart3338]

Thank you, Mani. Went on my first outdoor climb last weekend. I made a lot of mistakes as a belayer, thankfully no bad results. I'm planning to go again in 2 weeks, and will be much better prepared this time.

[@JPGrant]

This is the most amazing video on lead climbing. Seriously. It was framed in such an precise and meaningful way. I feel entirely more comfortable belaying and climbing lead after watching. Thanks so much Mani!

[@jamesancona3590]

This was very helpful. This had info they didn’t teach me at my local gym. I’m a smaller climber so it’s very good to know that it’s best for me to stay closer to the wall. Thank you

[@vazap8662]

Well that answered all my dynamic belaying questions!

[@SamuelVella1995]

Great video! I've had two cases where I've given a bad dynamic catch. The first was when I had just started lead climbing, and we were practicing falls on lead. I knew my partner was going to take a fall, but I completely jumped too early with the end result being me giving her an even harder catch than if she fell without me moving. The second time I was climbing with a new partner but he was lighter than me, and I was used to belaying a friend who is 15kg heavier than me. I didn't move enough, and he also yelled 'take' right before he fell which I obeyed (I know not to do this now), and he ended up having a swing into the wall and hurt is ankle. I really make sure to give soft, dynamic catches now when its safe to do so. It's a learning curve though.

[@lukasundlukas2119]

I like to use a variation of the jumping method when I expect a lighter climber to fall. I get into a deep squatting position (nice stretch) and stand up again quickly to catch softly. When flexible enough, timing is easier and it’s as least as effective as jumping.

[@jaredboman9516]

although your belayer is using a gri gri he should lever let go of the rope when pulling the slack out

[@MrTobitobitobitobi]

In general great video quality but this one is especially good in terms of how you compressed alot of information in a greatly informative and structured way. Great drawings too :D

[@ManitheMonkey]

Yeah I'm a real Picasso sometimes

[@shokodeny]

One of the most useful videos on youtube for me 🙌 I have already watched it several times 😄

[@interwebslinger]

Brilliant video, thanks Mani! Sharing it with all of my climbing friends. The only thing I could think of to add is to be careful with ledges and non-overhanging rock. These can act as a kind of ground fall higher up on the route, so a hard catch may be better. You may also want to push away from the rock a bit in these instances in order to clear any obstacles below you - I'd rather swing into the rock than fall on top of it 😬

[@guile1083]

Thanks for the effort doing the video! Quick comment: in my experience (I had a lot of falls) you always need a helmet, period. The climber and the belayer, both. A small rock falling off the wall from 20meters can kill a person on the ground. So, why would you be vague about using a helmet? For me, a helmet is a life saver and it should not be underestimated

[@paigemager5540]

This video is EXACTLY what I've been looking for. I'm still a ways away from actually lead climbing (just reach 5.9), but I'm so freaking excited that I want to know all I possibly can to keep myself and my climbers/belayers safe. Thanks! Gonna be a struggle not to go through your entire video library in the next 24 hours

[@carolynschweitzer7901]

Just what I needed. I’m belaying my son indoors and brand new to lead climbing. Last night my 14 year old got frustrated because I was too close too the wall to see that he didn’t have enough slack at the end of the climb. I’m age 60, and weigh only 110 pounds, so I don’t want my heavier partner to send me flying if I stand too far out. Will use the glasses and see if that helps. This is so much great information. Hope it helps that I clicked on the ad 😄

[@michaelscarborough7011]

Thank you for the instructional video. It's great to see some logic and physics behind why and what we do instead of saying "we just do it this way"

[@greglegend]

A lot of important information in a condensed format. Thanks so much!

[@Kainexxl]

YT is a powerful tool indeed - but it needs people to create quality content. so...THANK YOU :)

[@ManitheMonkey]

Thanks for the feedback, You're welcome!

[@skyd171]

slight correction, total falling distance is 2x length from previous clip, + slack + elasticity of the rope (~3%)...(just did lead climbing certification 1 week ago :D

[@LH-tm6vj]

Really awseome video, especially love the physics schemas and explanations!

[@garyfelix3069]

Excellent! Lots of work went into making this. Thank you so much.

[@rockclimbs6817]

So useful! Great insights into less commonly discussed features of belaying and the choices to make. Extremely well illustrated. Thank you. Every belayer/climber should take a look.

[@morganmeehan5991]

Incredibly grateful to you for making these videos, I'm learning so much and gaining confidence to do some more outdoor lead climbing. Thank you!

[@danielmacdonough5297]

To me, the concern with grabbing the rope during a fall is that the slack introduced into the system can wrap around a finger, hand or wrist and when weighted it can easily snap one of those bones.

[@tubiak1]

Great vid ! Just what I was looking for to advance my belaying

[@userunknown2771]

very good Video! Very similar to and even better than what i was told in my DAV course.

[@moritzcla665]

Good video, but missing one point. At indoor routes you have most of the time a lot quickdraws per meter. At a certain level, no grounding likely, it is better too give a little bit more rope. The fall is going to be softer. If you don´t belive it, check the knot after the fall. This changes outdoor´s or if the space between the quickdraws get higher. The reason is, that every quickdraw perform friction on the rope, no matter if you fall or are pulling rope to clip at a high point :) Also you have more rope whick resultes also in more rope streching.

[@frosch103]

Why should the fall be softer with more slack? It just means that you fall longer, increasing the "impact" speed with it. The softening effect is due to higher elasticity of longer rope piece. Slack should be avoided at any time!!!

[@moritzcla665]

@@frosch103 My finding is under the assumtion, that the tightness of the knot is proportional to the energie which is acting on it. Due to my own empirical finding´s the knot is not as tight, when you increase the slack. I have to admit that my physical theorie behinde this problem is not so concrete. My assumtion is that the softening effect is higher, because this effect correlate with the lenght of the rope. The effect should be seen similar to bungee jumping (with a bonus deceleration do to friction, the deceleration effects due to speed of the rope, pressure of the rope on the exe and longing are not known to me and they could only be measured in experiment´s due to the complexity of this system´s). The accerleration is negativ going to reserval point. This finding´s are limited due to vertical or a little bit inclined (> " Slack should be avoided at any time!!! " This is this is incorrect, because if you fall down and you are over a cliff you should give the climber enought slack, so he didn´t crash in this cliff. I actually knew some guy´s which are performing fall training with extra slack, with the target to " crash " into the wall at a certain pointe. (To avoid cliff crashing as mentioned befor.) But test it yourself in an save environment. ;) AD: "Einflussfaktor Slack Lässt man ein wenig das Seil durchhängen, erhöht sich die Fallhöhe und die Seillänge gleichermaßen. Das kann sich sowohl positiv als auch negativ auf den Sturzfaktor auswirken. Für f

[@frosch103]

@@moritzcla665 ich schreib erstmal auf Deutsch: Im deutschen Teil deiner Antwort(von bergfreunde) steht schon bei Sturzfaktor f

[@frosch103]

@@moritzcla665 The energy(force) on the knot increases the higher you fall (U = mass · g · height). The energy will always increase more than the softness of the rope.(example 2m fall on 10m rope and with 1m slack 10m/11m < 2m/3m -> the softness will increase less than the fall energy percentage wise ) And if Slack would be this good why only 1m? The longer the rope the softer Fall? Then you would stop the fall with the maximum rope lenght which would be like a meter above ground.

[@moritzcla665]

@@frosch103 "And if Slack would be this good why only 1m? The longer the rope the softer Fall? Then you would stop the fall with the maximum rope lenght which would be like a meter above ground." This is no case of the better the more. Maybe i should have be more precise on what extra slack mean´s for me. A maximum of rope till the ground (most of the time less) standing away from the wall maximum 1meter. Of course you should always have an eye on the climber, for that reason i use prisma glasses. And no im am full aware of the limit of these technique. And i aso have witnessed "belaying" where the belayer was lighter then the climber and was standing around 5m from the wall, so that the belayer was able to stay in the sun. That climber would have grounded even above the 5th exe. As you mentioned before, these video is for beginner. On my standing point, beginners should try this, at lead climbing. Don´t clip the top and fall into the rope and "play" (certainly with a very safe level of rope and a semi automatic device). Because in my opinion you are much more awar of the risks and benefit´s of slack if you have felt it and seen it, both as climber and belayer. And you hopefully also learn no matter what never ever remove the breaking hand from the rope, also if you crash into the wall (belayer). I think if you see what a slight amont of more slack has on the falling lenght you are much more conservative. And you can only learn by doing.

[@worldsaways717]

Thanks Mani! The value packed into this video is incredible. I appreciate it and can't wait to hit the rope gym for some fall practice. =)

[@dicrurusparadiseus]

Great information, thanks!

[@annaalm18]

Danke für das super Video und dein Englisch ist wirklich toll! Konnte ein paar wichtige Tips mitnehmen. Schön wär auch mal ein Klettertechnikvideo auf Deutsch, damit alle in den Genuss kommen;). Gruß aus OÖ

[@pbb120]

Yo, the Naruto ending song! Had me double-take before I added to my saved videos, thanks for all the great info!!!

[@JustSmiLeL]

thank you so much for this comprehensive guide to dynamic belay. Learnt it a few years ago and forgot about it due to lack of practice but will definitely keep these info in my mind.

[@Pauline_mrt]

This video is just amazing! Super clear course on how to belay properly, thank you ! :) Can't wait to do practice falls !

[@victorchang2016]

You're the best man, thank you for the valuable safety advice

[@MtbStoat]

Thank-you, very useful - just getting back into lead climbing after many years in the mountain biking wilderness...

[@jcrotty18]

All around a good video. Again I will keep saying this until you start doing it in all of your lead videos - wear a helmet! Your friend has a green BD helmet on a few times which is smart. Even in sport climbing you will eventually have an inverted rope behind the leg fall. In such a scenario it's very easy to get knocked out. Also, the walk/run belay technique is fine but even here you should have a helmet on just in case you get caught off guard or have a foot slip or trip with your feet and "bam" your head gets pulled into the wall. Or while belaying the climber pulls off a rock that lands on your head. This is rock climbing not basketball - when things go wrong you will get hurt. Wear helmets!

[@BDragonmasTer]

Awesome video, thanks for all the time and effort you put into it. Very informative, clear, and helpful

[@erinb4919]

great tutorial!

[@aleksandrskorobogatov3949]

Best climbing tutorial channel, by far. Thanks for your wonderful work, Mani!

[@oldsaintvic13]

What a great informative video on catching falling climbers while belaying! Very helpful. Thank you!

[@AlanT0ng]

Thanks for the tips. I just started learning dynamic belay and this video just came in timely.

[@DanBanan69]

Very well made and informative! Thanks!

[@coralnerd]

Excellent video Mani. Thank you.

[@jenniferclapham6539]

I love the way you say 'channel'. Great videos!

[@ManitheMonkey]

Thanks!

[@jenniferclapham6539]

Seriously? how snobbish. He speaks English very well as a second language.

[@matyPRE]

21:20 here you're supporting without ropes, just woth the hands. This could have made a little chapter also, and talk about keeping the thumbs inwards to prevent ruptures

[@petersumner348]

Thank you!!

[@ArinaThomsen]

Thank you, very informative tutorial.

[@funtimes237]

thank you👍🏽

[@anthonymaraldo5406]

Very very good information, Mani! I learned a lot from this and it was especially useful right before taking my lead certification test at the gym!

[@xxconorcregan]

Epic Video mani, excellent production and very well explained. You are a great person for sharing these tips and thank you very much 👍🏻

[@william_lynch]

Great video

[@thomasjohnlorren]

Super useful coming from a beginner perspective!

[@alexbarcovsky4319]

This video has saved at least 100 ankles already.

[@mathias5618]

Hey Mani, any possibilities of extending your injury series (fingers and shoulders) with a video on elbows? I think a lot of climbers run into elbow issues sooner or later

[@rockclimbinghacks9222]

I've had triceps tendonitis, resulting in elbow pain, for a long time. I discovered that this was because of my tendency to chicken-wing when I climb. I started training my rotator cuffs to counteract the chicken-wing, and I haven't had problems since.

[@sfz82]

Excellent! Learned some useful stuff!

[@sagutxu1]

Really good video with tons of interesting and useful info! keep the great work going!!

[@shih5156]

Thank you for your detailed explanation, super awesome video!

[@rikvdmark]

Thanks man, great video :) I'm busy with a lead course, can't wait to climb outside ^^

[@anthonycheffings9462]

What a fantastic video, thanks

[@alexfedorov9606]

While this is a great video I think the danger of lighter belayer in any sort of dynamic catch technique especially with tube style device is not stressed nearly enough... In most cases if there is a significant weight difference you are much better getting a rope with high elongation and making sure belayer is actually anchored and can't be slammed into the wall. The advice in this video is great for Gri-gri style devices when they are used in gyms or single pitch sport climbs outside. I feel its a very dangerous advice in Trad and especially ice climbing as you never want your partners crampons coming that close to your face :) And yes I understand that most people looking at trad or ice probably dont need to watch a video on belaying techniques ;)

[@maurolocatelli5836]

very good. thank you. this video is amazing.

[@dichebach]

Really great introduction to belaying.

[@veorflex]

Great video, thanks a lot!

[@greatmouflon]

THANK YOU! Well needed lead video :)

[@valentynsabulis2858]

Thank you!

[@andrewdudley3408]

At 3:22, what's the alternative? Is it that because you placed your right foot to the left of the bolt for the drop knee that you shouldn't have brought your foot around the rope? Seems like if you hadn't, then your foot would have definitely been in front of the rope.

[@moecowbell637]

i was wondering this as well.

[@adambanks856]

Nice video, you spent a lot of time on this! Something that I am a little wary of is the belayer standing so far out from the wall. If the belayer is paying attention, this seems to work well, but being human, the belaying may only be paying attention 95% of the time, and a surprise fall could pull the belayer into the wall (as you pointed out) and they could release the brake hand. Also, this style of belaying doesn't work for trad climbing because if you are standing far from the wall, you put a lot more horizontal for on the piece of gear increasing the chance that the piece gets pulled out of the wall. I feel like these issues can simply be solved by standing under the first bolt, having an appropriate amount of slack in the rope, and jumping upwards don't you think?

[@saberling]

well done, thank you! gut gemacht!

[@yuuna8997]

a helpful video :)

[@konstantinzyuzkevich4472]

Thank you so much!!!

[@LachlanGB]

Mani I think the walking towards the wall and the sliding the rope techniques are not as effective as jumping. Walking towards the wall as they fall will make it so you are not in a stable position when their weight comes onto the rope and you can very likely trip and faceplant into the wall. Your eyes also should be on the climber so you can't watch your feet. It also necessitates that you are belaying from far away from the wall which is not ideal. Sliding the rope just sounds like a lot of additional risk for giving them half a metre of additional slack. Jumping is by far the superior method to both of these imo, which to be fair is what you conclude too. Thanks for the video!

[@AW-po7jr]

Extremely valuable information!

[@ДмитрийПчелинцев-м5н]

Hello Mani! You made this video for beginners but I think, lost one detail: beginners don't climb overhangings. 😉 And when the wall (rock) is vertical, or even positive, or even vertical with some rocks bumping out from surface... it becomes not fully right. I mean sometimes hard stop is better dynamic landing on rock shelve. What can you advise on that?

[@ManitheMonkey]

Good point! However, even on slabs, it's necessary to give some sort of a dynamic catch (if there's enough space for it) if your climber gets some falling distance - meaning he/she is high above the last clipped quickdraw - or the fall will be extremely uncomfortable. Big falls on slabs are generally uncomfortable, there's not a lot you can do about that but trying to avoid it.

[@mikohayle]

Good video thanks

[@leemz9110]

This reminds me so much of my undergrad mechanics classes! Makes me wonder if you studied physics.

[@davidsimpson3885]

😂 he's German, Maths and Physics is kinda what they do, p.s. not exactly difficult calculations

[@LukeRockCimber]

That first catch, I would argue he has too much slack in the rope. And at 4:50, wear a helmet and you don’t have to worry about protecting your head with your hands it a safer technique

[@susansims9732]

I have a very hard time belaying with the glasses. The strange double vision of seeing a limited area upwards while noticing the horizontal in my peripheral vision is very disorienting. Whenever I’ve tried them, I feed out slack more slowly. Rather than frustrating my climbers by shorting them, I’ve given up on the glasses.

[@Drinkyoghurt]

Awesome video Mani! I have one question though. So I'm fairly new to roped climbing. I have both a Grigri 2 and a tuber (DMM Pivot). I've found that as a belayer I prefer the DMM Pivot over the Grigri when it comes to lead climbing. If I'm belaying lead with the Grigri most of my attention goes to keeping the Grigri from locking up when giving out rope, making it a lot harder to focus on the climber. Especially with thick, dirty gym ropes this becomes an issue. I've seen your other video about how to give out rope quickly with the Grigri but still haven't been able to get comfortable with it. The tuber on the other hand is super easy to use, makes it easier for me to give a dynamic catch and makes it so that I have my full attention on the climber. The only downside is that a ground fall can happen (big downside right?). I've drilled it into my head to never let go of the brake hand no matter what and in one situation where I did get caught off guard trying to get a knot out of the rope it still caught the climber because of this. I'm not sure what makes sense, learning how to belay with the Grigri or keep with the tuber? Thanks for putting out such great content all the time!

[@dmm4133]

Keep learning how to belay with gri gri and forget about other devices. It's a lot safer and if you practice belaying with gri you will start getting better at it and after 1 month or two you won't give a fuck for the gri and you will focus only on your partner. Trust me! Use the gri gri always if you climb sport routes. Wish you a nice day and greater climbing grades!

[@philipppuchner1115]

I won't say that. I myself also use a GriGri pretty much exclusively for the last year or so, but I believe every(!) climber should first learn to belay and proper catch falls with a normal tuber! Then you can switch to any device you may like. After the normal ATC i used the MegaJul and then the Jul^2. The Jul^2 is also very good for those thick gym ropes (in case you have to use some of these, BUT try to lead climb as much as possible and do that with your own rope!!). If people don't learn how to use a tube style device properly, they don#t know how to belay with any sort of tube style device and don't know how it feels like to catch a fall. What forces occour and how hard you have to hold your break hand down (you should match the break hand with the other hand anyways). When climbing multipitch, you also have to use a tuber or a munters hitch. A friend of mine, who climbs i think for about 7 years now and is pretty good, JUST belays with his ATC guide! Also indoors sports climbing, never with anything other. And from all my climbing partners and all peple i have ever climbed with, i believe he is the best belayer from all of them. What i can't understand is that he has no belay glasses. When i'M climbing with him, he sometimes uses mine, but sometimes he doesn't want to. So: I think it is a mistake telling people to get a GriGri 2 (or +) and that they should forget about anything else! You also may "forget" how to belay properly when using just the GriGri, by getting lazy because "the device locks off anyway". I also have seen people with way too much slack, because the belayer is too lazy to move towards the wall when pulling out rope in the event of a clip, and moving backwards when the climber has clipped to take in additional slack. Also people who let go of the break hand. NO GO! Don't fool yourself into feeling safe just because the device (Grigri, Click-Up, any auto tube like MegaJul, Jul^2, Smart, GigaJul etc) SHOULD lock off and stay locked anyway! Btw, I would like to try out the new Wild Country Revo! ;)

[@dmm4133]

@@philipppuchner1115 you're right. You can start being lazy when using the gri gri, but in my opinion if you pay attention to do the things right there isn't anything bad to use gri gri most of the time. I think your friend who climb for 7 years is so good just because he was belaying for 7 years, but i can't say that he would always never make a mistake. If you don't grab the braking rope 1 time this can lead to dead, ok you can belay 30 years and never do that but still there is some chance. That's why the gri gri is made for and that's why i prefer it for sport climbing. Just do the things right and don't be lazy.

[@philipppuchner1115]

I totally agree with you. Of course there isn't anything bad with the GriGri (at least i didn't discover any weaknesses by now, for my use cases i use it), the problem is always the people. Like when they are told how to belay in a course, then think they can do it and from there on now don't improve or even think about it (because it is "just holding the rope" or something, which "is easy"). I for myself am interested in climbing als always read articles, bnews, etc about climbing. Also about belaying, the last doctrine there is, and so on. BUT there are so many people, who seem to not give a sh*t or are not aware of what happens around them. What they are doing, never rethink things and are stuck on a basic level. It would be like always climb the same UIAA 5 route, you know the moves and never do anything else. I think by practise and awareness you improve in climbing, you should as well try to improve as a belayer. Stand close to the ground for the first 2-3 bolts indoors, mova back and forth when payig out slack quickly and take slack in quickly, watch 100% of the time the climber, anticipate his moves, when he reaches to the rope for a clip etc. Never short rope him (i hate that if someone does it to me!), bt never have just more slack out than needed. Be super focused on your task and your task only. Try to be the best belayer possible. try to do your job as good as possible. You give everything you have when climbing? Well, then also give everything when belaying! You would also want your belayer to do the best job he or she can, so also watch your climber as a belayer as good as you possibly can! be critical about your own performance! Have you ever so slightly short roped your climber? Were you not fast enough giving slack, or didn't you move fast enough towards the wall? When the climber drops the rope, did you take in slack as you were supposed to? Or did you just wait a moment for the climber to try clipping again? Alll those little things - there is ALWAYS room for improvement! As a climber and especially as a belayer. Sadly, some people seem to just turn off their brain when going climbing and just run the minimum basic program needed :(

[@ManitheMonkey]

Learn the GriGri. As you have seen yourself, slip-ups do happen. The problem with rope climbing is there is zero tolerance. Even if you belay like a god 999 out of 1000 times, that one time where you let things slide (quite literally) can easily be a grounder with a tuber. With a Grigri you will just take a deep breath and think holy shit thanks for that lock down and maybe your partner up there didn't even notice a thing (everybody with enough years in the game knows that feeling).

[@die_hertz]

The guy who got the rope behind his leg, I couldn't see it coming even when watching at 1/4 times the speed. Did it happen during the fall when he went past the last anchor?

[@caleballison7440]

idk bro

[@nathanaelpineau7618]

You can see his leg snaps back to a standard position from the drop knee when the fall starts. At the end of the leg motion, his heel passes just over the rope, then the rope slides to his knee.

[@mirama1990]

hey mani. how do you act with a grigri when the fallen climber pulls himself back up to his last position using the rope? i have a mammut smart belay device and with it i can simply pull in the rope and jump up the wall at the same time to always have tension on the rope and to help the fallen climber get up again. my friend has a grigri and i always have to use way more force to pull me up after a fall because he sais he can‘t use this method. any advice? thanks!

[@ManitheMonkey]

Haha yeah that's annoying, I know what you mean. Tell your partner to just walk backwards for as long as possible, no pulling in of rope while you're pulling up, so it's easier for him and you. Might be less comfortable to him in the end since he gets an undesirable rope angle during the process, but as soon as you're pulled up you can grab a draw/the rope shortly and in that time he can run back to the wall and pull the rope back in, and normal projecting can go on.

[@mirama1990]

thanks! we'll try that :)

[@frosch103]

you can(as a belayer) also just get a foothold, jump up and pull in rope at the same time works just as fine. Plus you get the full weight of the belayer to help th ascend back to the last quickdraw and be in the right spot to blay afterwards

[@UKMonkey]

I'm surprised about the helmet comment. When you're belaying, the climber can drop equipment, or shift a rock, or someone at the top, who's not climbing could drop something. You literally have someone's life in your hands, and I wouldn't climb outside even a top rope, unless my belayer has a helmet on.

[@Archer-bc6cv]

How does it work when you have a lighter belayer? Wouldn’t the belayer just keep moving upwards? Is friction stopping this from happening or is something else causing this not to happen?

[@frosch103]

yeah the main force that stops you is the friction. BUt in climbinggyms, due to the straight lines of quickdraws, friction is much smaller than on rockroutes. You can increase friction by clipping the first quickdraw from the neighboring route. Or use a friction enhancer like the edelrid ohm

[@Archer-bc6cv]

frosch103 thank you for your answer. Much appreciated!

[@frosch103]

You shouldn´t grab the knot . There is the danger that a loop can form arround your hand/finger. In the worst case you will have one finger less! Also sometimes you should jump from the wall. e.g to avoid a legde in your landing area or on slabs.

[@caleballison7440]

you should knot grab the knot

[@martinschmidt1652]

All of these videos are always done for overhang, but the reality is that most climbers that don't know this are not climbing overhang and then its it a bit of a different story.

[@salicimi6937]

perfecttt

[@evak5806]

The route at 00:22:00 looks really fun. Can you share where that is?

[@ManitheMonkey]

I think you mean the route called What 8b in Leonidio, Greece.

[@step1179]

Always wear an helmet. Both climber and belayer. Nowadays helmets are so light, ventilated and comfortable that I can’t see why you would not wear it. Most of the times I even forget that I’m wearing it.

[@pabloarcegonzalez7638]

Could you do a video about "Beguinner grip training"? Times, grips, rests... Sorry about my english. Thanks!

[@rodrigobertoa5916]

Pro tip: don't stop to calculate the time of the fall using the formulas when the climber falls, you probably won't make it in time

[@step1179]

What about belayers that, on overhanging pitches, stand very far from the wall (6-7m), even on the first 2-3 clips? I see a lot of decking hazard. What do you think about it?

[@raiemie7365]

I saw experts tell that the walking method should not be used since the belayer can be dragged to the wall rapidly and hit it

[@vmalloc]

Every lead belayer on the planet should be required to watch this before belaying people. Thanks for the amazing video.

[@EranAmir]

Hi Mani, great video as always!! Any tips on how to avoid semi-auto devices from locking when the climber pulls rope to clip very fast or unexpectedly? I saw it happen several times, and it also happened to me in some hard/desperate clips. Is this something that should be addressed by the belayer or the climber? Thanks!

[@ManitheMonkey]

I definitely talked about how it's done on the Grigri in my how to belay with a Grigri video, but every semi automat has it's own technique. In general it should be addressed by the belayer, it's not the climbers fault that some clips have to be done quickly. Just learn your device properly, and pay attention when belaying.

[@EranAmir]

Thanks! Will check out the Grigri video!

[@deanpflaumer7837]

Agreed. There are a great many passive and active assisted belay devices on the market, and each has it's own technique that must be learned and practiced. Learning how to use the specific device you chose is important.

[@xawerytrabka8813]

rope should be behind leg or between leg ?

[@paulmorrey733]

Thanks

[@faceindisguise85]

I'm a climber in America and every crag I've ever been to, everybody is wearing helmets. Don't be that guy that shows up without helmet. I also won't let someone belay me without a helmet.

[@neo778]

Everyone she revisit this Video one a year!