Filling Gaps w/ Milliput

Filling seams is one thing. But what about gaps? When you need something that won't shrink, and don't want to sand away nearby detail? Enter Milliput. This two-part epoxy is perfect for this niche role, but it's a messy and annoying material to work with. Check it out.

[@JoeOsborne]

Matt, great video. Thanks for the advice! One thing I learned about Milliput.... sprinkle some talcum powder on the surface your working on, like the glass, and it won't stick. That relieves one of the biggest PITA about working with this stuff.

[@martinmickleburgh6814]

Matt, great video. Can I humbly suggest a couple of things. Don't add water until the very end - it has a tendency to make a sticky mess....ah, yes, of course, you noticed that (!) Instead, if you find the stuff sticking to you, use a bit of talcum powder (on your fingers and on the glass sheet). You can get away with mixing much less: a ball about the size of a pea would have done the job just fine. You can then roll bits of it into really thin strings and dodge them into the offending gaps. And finally, scrapers made from ice lolly sticks (hope that's what you call the in the USA) or flat tooth picks allow you to be really precise in removing what you don't want without risking damage to the plastic. There are now quite a few alternatives to Milliput for modellers, mostly aimed at figure modellers and zimmerit geeks who need to create a really thin but manageable sheet of putty. I've tried a couple but still prefer Milliput for regular gap filling. Keep up the good work (love the FlankOff!)

[@bradh9564]

This video was excellent. The “shut up compressor” speaks to what makes your videos excellent, very loudly. You aren’t trying to be some kind of funny guy, know it all, or any of the other attributes which make other youtubers so irritating. You’re simply trying to share valuable insight, no fluff/filler. Just excellent information provided in an easily palatable fashion. YOU RULE!

[@garywhaley4040]

I love your videos. Instructional and very bloody entertaining. Such honesty and lack of bullshit. Keep 'em coming. 👍

[@JaRek555]

I also do it with epoxy putty, like Milliput or Tamiya. But I only mix very small amounts at a time, roll them into thin strips and stuff small sections of them into the gaps. The secret is in very small amounts. It's much easier this way.

[@cimmerian100]

great video though i think you could have achieved the same result with a tiny pea sized piece of milliput by rolling it into very thin worm shapes and laying them onto the gap.

[@DoogsModels]

Probably could have - definitely not my area of specialty and I'm still sorting out ways to be more efficient.

[@karl-xb6rl]

Doogs' Models Would you use Tamiya Expoxy Quick Type putty?

[@ZionistSoldier]

Awesome video, this has been a big help to me today. Thanks!

[@mattcurr9931]

make a lil milliput bowl, pour some iso alcohol in the middle - get a brush and stir/mix, you now have millibutter you can brush on easily into gaps

[@JuanAdam12]

Those silicon shapers can be modified with a scalpel to create a more precise tool for the job.

[@RichardSinanju]

I've used Polyfilla ready mixed for larger holes and gaps, then overlaid some Vallejo plastic putty as a skin.

[@chancerNW]

I tend to use plastic shim strips for large gaps and even for external steps. Fitted, trimmed and sanded and some times I then apply a layer of filler. I prefer shims over other methods.

[@thadrepairsitall1278]

I have used quite a few 2 part epoxies. I never follow the time to mix guides. I just mix until there are no more stripes and just a little bit more. That has worked beautifully for me.

[@dansanders653]

I watched this video and laughed out loud. Ive struggled with it the you have. I’ve used Milliput for certain applications, but only when nothing else works. It IS a PITA to work with, it’s lengthy to mix. But, it does work extremely well. And finishes nicely. I will use almost anything else where I can, but when it’s required, it’s the bomb. For long gaps I roll it into a length like spaghetti. What I love about it, it doesn’t shrink and sands well. Although, I always sink into a weird depression when I have no choice but to reach for it....

[@MosoKaiser]

I'm not sure if there's a significant difference in their smoothness, but I've been happy using the regular grey-green Milliput variant, and it has the advantage of having two distinctly different colored components to mix so there's zero guesswork needed when mixing: when the color's uniform it's properly mixed and good to go.

[@rosemaryr.long-morgan9704]

FYI: Dollar type stores have a dentist's basic kit...nice and sharp "pick" & mine had a scoop too like a long handled miniature spoon. It makes a difference when modelling. THANKS for sharing, good job

[@howardkilburn7574]

Great tutorials Matt, keep them comingregards Howard

[@jamesperrin3762]

Firstly you can mix perfectly well small amounts (eg two peas). Secondly don't add water while mixing it will turn into slurry. As someone else pointed out small amounts can be rolled into really fine thread. Once placed on the gap then come in with a dampened tool.

[@edgardosepulveda1228]

Using a little Chap Stick on your fingers will prevent sticking. Mixing miliBUTTER is a great idea also. Thank you for the video.

[@TheMuseumModeler]

Interesting approach. A product I've used with success in similar situations is Mr. Dissolved Putty. With a bit of acetone, it's extremely workable using tools like your silicone brushes. Have you ever given that a whirl?

[@jerryrichards8172]

Useing talcum powder is the best trick, with this product makes it much more manageable. You can roll hairline noodles lay them in work it with moist qtip easy peazy.

[@roba6330]

You should give Apoxie Sculpt a try. It's a two-part epoxy putty like Milliput, put easier to work with (easier to mix, roll out, etc.). I threw my Milliput away after trying Apoxie Sculpt...

[@toequantumspace]

Thanks for sharing. Great idea with color/clay shapers. Try also dark grey ones, they are more stiff. When I am at this stage, I close eyes, I imagine that I prime with an airbrush and sand, and sand and sand.....

[@JHartModelworks]

I know this is years old but, you can take a bit of milliput and add IPA to it and take it to nearly any consistency you want. get it to nearly a liquid and just brush it in with am old paint brush. much less smoothing and cleanup. Great video.

[@xanderguldie]

I only use milliput for larger gaps and/or stronger bonds. Otherwise i just use Revell plasto and I thin it down with thinners. Works great!

[@barrowb98]

Ever try Bondo Finishing Glaze (or Evercoat Glazing Putty)? Most auto parts stores have the Bondo brand stuff, it comes in either a small accordion tub tub or in a tube. It's two-part, it uses a catalyst. It's not regular-old Bondo in a can. I use it in a similar fashion but smoothing with alcohol or non-acetone fingernail polish remover instead of water. Comes out of the tube a lot softer than Milliput, I find it a lot easier to work with, it's like working with regular putty. It kicks pretty fast, too, and can be sanded in under an hour.

[@DoogsModels]

I'll have to look into that. Though one of the things I do like about milliput is that I have plenty of time to work with it. The other putties and fillers I use (especially Bondi) kick off rather fast, which is good for some things, annoying for others.

[@speedeemee]

I use Tamiya's hard pointed q-tips. They work extremely well for this application.

[@BillHalliwell]

G'day Doog, My first look at your videos. Yes, it's a terrible chore but sometimes it can't be avoided. I usually choose Tamiya or AIrfix kits for my 1/32 models as they tend to have less 'grand canyons' after dry fit testing. But after seeing your video, I'm dreading the Trumpeter 1/32 kits I got recently. I can't think of the brand but there is a slightly thick liquid called 'Dissolved Putty' (It might be part of the 'Mr...' range. It's got japanese stuff all over it) I've used this in the past and it is easy to apply because it will go through a wet, plastic syringe with a wet, large gauge hypodermic needle. It gets tight into a right angled joint because the end of the needle is cut on the oblique. I only use a tiny strip of this stuff, smooth it in by turning the end of the needle around to the pointy bit and running it along the gap. I let it dry and then take a right-angled extra fine, rigid sanding strip to it for finishing up. I've not noticed shrinkage in the models I've used it on so far. Use disposable syringes as they clag up after use. I put the needles into a little cup thing I've got and put them through the dishwasher. It cleans the needles out well if you do it right away. Anyway, I've subscribed because I like a bloke who calls a spade a freaking shovel! And, you seem to be an advanced modeller. I'll take a look at your other videos, maybe you have solutions for large models I've yet to discover. Cheers, BH Hobart, Tasmania

[@mattperson7293]

With a cheap disposable syringe fill with Humbrol model filler loosened up with regular poly cement (to make it liquid) - works a treat for those awkward corners. Humbrol filler also dries properly and doesn't stay soft like Vallejo and so sands really well.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

I swear by Mr Surfacer 500 wiped off with alcohol on a cotton bud for jobs like that. That Milliput just looks like too much trouble.

[@Manaritzis88]

I love this product years now

[@scottfirman]

I use a Bondo scratch and dent filler that works great. No mixing. You use paint thinner to it if needed. I can buy it at the local store in the automotive department. A tube lasts forever. It doesn't shrink and I have been using it for years on seams and gaps. It's not water soluble so you need rubber gloves. I bought a package of that two part crap and will be returning it. There are other types available at the hardware store that work the same way as the stuff you bought. After watching your video, I know I will not ever use that stuff now.

[@saberboi1526]

So I bought a cheap USS Arizona and the hull of the model has about a 1cm gap and I have never used putty before and was wondering what would be good for such a large gap.

[@Dragonblaster1]

Way too much Milliput, my man. I agree that it's a complete PITA to prepare, although the less you use, the easier it is, but it is SO compliant and easy to shape with water. I always have some in my toolboxes. I use Perfect Plastic Putty for fine seams (I hate the go-to Squadron Green because it's so crumbly), but I'm currently in battle with the mighty 1/48 Monogram B-58 Hustler. It has some gaps like the Grand Canyon, and only Milliput can fill those gaps with a smooth fillet. Horses for courses, mate.

[@R1door]

Tamiya extra thin, chopped up pieces of styrene in a jar and let it melt over night... haven’t used a better filler since!

[@Nemesisrooster]

@HUBBICANE, A mate showed me that a few years ago. I have used nothing else since.

[@Stringbean421]

Does that method really work? Would throw-away styrene sprue chopped up into little pieces be ok? How much thinner do you put in? Enough to cover all the bits of styrene? Thanks.

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

you can heat the 2 parts before you mix them in a microwave for 20-30 sec depending on the amount.

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

you can use Q tips from cosmetics ,for touch up nails. they are smaller and pointer.

[@orionspainting9875]

Also love the video annnd the intro song had me dying. And making the throat itchy. Need a beer now.

[@skeeterbuck1355]

Rob's right Doog, get yourself some Aves Apoxie Sculpt. It was painful watching you struggle with that Milliput.

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

the best putty i have used is a auto motive spot putty. two brand i use are CAMALEON nitrospachtel N30 and PpG puttyV.B.A. beige A242. the first is slower curring and the second its verry fast! . they both can be diluted with laquer thinner.

[@robnally9086]

Matt, enjoying the videos, I've been binge watching your channel for hours now. I use milliput to sculpt miniatures. It is a good product but it has its place. From my experiences: Mix smaller amounts at a time, dust your surface with talc, definitely use that acrylic rolling pin. When working it into gaps use metal sculpting tools. Your water use is right on. For your final smoothing after using the nylon brushes (which give you a smooth finish), let it cure for a little bit, then come back with a damp paint brush to get an even smoother finish.

[@davep4703]

I understand this is an old video, but a small amount of detergent in the water helps the last smoothing/cleaning up process.

[@michaelhochman95]

There are paint shapers available in black silicone. These are more firm than the white.

[@seanmcgrath2049]

*mixes 10x the putty needed for the job* "See, it just makes too much..." 🤦‍♂️

[@MrKov1985]

What are your thoughts on humbrol model filler? Straight out of the tube, no mixing shit. I picked up a tube the other day to try it out. Keep up the videos by the way, I really enjoy them. These tutorials are invaluable to a beginner such as myself.

[@DoogsModels]

I've almost always been disappointed by "model brand" fillers. The exceptions to that are Mr. Paint's filler and Gunze Mr Surfacer 500.

[@Rich.Staples]

Good use of Milliput. You could have cut off a smaller amount and used a teflon sheet for molding also u could have used the sillicone shapers to press the compound into the gaps you wanted to fill. Would have saved youu time. you could have thinned the milliput with water a bit to make it softer..trap water between layers of milliput by folding it into layers when mixing insteda of making sausages. Thirty folds will give u a well mixed putty adding water between the layers.

[@johndonovan7018]

i use scissors to cut the shit before i mix it. ok. you had me at that. lol

[@dias_se]

haha! love the honesty. :-) 👍

[@NazidKimmie]

Great video, that Mig is a big ass bird!

[@jethrocathcart7452]

I have cone shaped Q tips. Or use a wood coffee stir, cut it in half for smoothing...? IDK. Lol

[@traviswilliams8050]

If u haven't tried u might wanna try is usc icing polyester finishing putty no 26006 wont shrink easy to sand and the tube will last for years

[@TJRohyans]

Is this still your preferred gap filler, or have you found something you like better since this video?

[@nacholibre4516]

Use some dishwashing soap in the water when cleaning off the excess milliput.

[@darrentinman6994]

Can you use this on diecast models to get rid of massive gaps and level up panel lines?

[@uniformmike05]

Yes, you can. Milliput sticks to styrene, resin and metal.

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

alcohol can be used with water or not ,to remove milliput putty.

[@stuarttempleton43]

Hi Doog's - Thanks for the video, I've been wondering about getting me some of this stuff and now I know what to expect. Mmmm Have you ever tried 'Perfect Plastic Putty'? It's water based and comes in a normal tube - It's pretty shit as a filler but excells in filling fine gaps. Normally I apply it with a toothpick and then clean up the excess with a damp q-tip. Works pretty well for the same issues you use this stuff for. Mind you, I can't comment on how much it would shrink back - Not noticable in 1/72 but might be an issue in 1/32 - could be worth trying, it's pretty cheap. Keep up the good work. Cheers!

[@DoogsModels]

S. Templeton I've tried it and find it OK for small stuff - though it doesn't seem to stand up too well to sanding in my experience. Also annoying that it has a tendency to dry out in its tube.

[@DoogsModels]

I wouldn't really trust it for a gap of this size and depth.

[@stuarttempleton43]

Doogs' Models Ah ok, yeah I can see that, and yes the tube drying thing is bloody annoying.

[@Ebergerud]

Perfect Plastic Putty is almost worthless because of its nutcake tube - stuff dries out in record time. Vallejo plastic putty - very similar - has no such problem. If you want acrylic, try Golden Hard Molding Paste - it will take a few hours to dry, but it's made to sculpt with and hence sands and cuts splendidly and zero shrinkage.

[@stuarttempleton43]

Eric Bergerud Agreed - That plastic tube was a PITA. I have noticed that the new tube I bought recently is in an old style metal tube - e.g. Like Tamiya Basic/Revell Plasto etc. Perhaps they took notice of customer feedback....maybe. Thanks for the tips!

[@grahamkylevulcan4340]

Is that the Trumpy 1/48th scale MiG-23ML kit?

[@DoogsModels]

32nd

[@timmasters61]

Great video and I love your no shit approach to modelling, But wow this looks like a fair bit of hassle. Have you tried using small sculpting tools to do the smoothing with? They'd be a lot firmer than the nylon brushes. Just a thought :-)

[@craigjones7343]

Use parchment paper (baking parchment). The miliput should not stick to that.

[@spikeriches8821]

Would prob try using a small rad ball it punch in the putty before the clean up myself

[@karl-xb6rl]

Milliput is kind of similar to Tamiya Epoxy Putty quick type.

[@Johnny-tt8zc]

I already hate this stuff.and I have never used it. Wouldn’t medium ca and micro balloons be easier to work with?

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

to mix them more easy.

[@grahamkylevulcan4340]

Doog, footage 01:53 onwards has real scared the shoot out of me. What happened? You looked SUCH in a hurry to explain! XDIncidentally; is that the Trumpy 1/48 MiG-23 kit with the Metallic Details resin correction nose?

[@kevinchapman4362]

Ceramics tools would work for you better ! At least in that area

[@agent4worldpeace007]

use baby powder to reduce stickiness for ease of use

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

the same goes for 2 part epoxy.

[@rayfraser1773]

You made it sticky, no need for the water ! Add the water layer to mould it like clay !

[@orionspainting9875]

Haha slowed down the vid to hear your rant lol

[@twentyfoursevensmoke]

1:48 that's what she said 😂

[@MAN394631]

What i see is, thats too much work with Milliput,looks like smear and hard to handle and expensive also, i use Vallejo Plastic Putty and i have a better result, i put just a bit putty in the gap and wipe it away with cotton bud and water.

[@maxschmidt666]

You can thin down milliput with alcohol (isopropanol) so it gets a creamy (or even watery, if you wand) consistence and use an old brush to get it into the gaps. Should be easier and faster: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4qbcpaanppsg5I

[@Cptpaul12]

I like how you say “shut up, compressor” and it listens.. 🤣🤣

[@JeffreyStrader]

Doog your going to have to stand in line. I hated seem filling long before you did.....LOL

[@GalaxyStranger01]

I really don't mean to sound like a douche when I say this - this looks like WAY more trouble than it's worth. I can do the same job with Bondo spot filler, or even Liquitex acrylic medium, and a q-tip™. This video is making me avoid milliput like the black death. By the way, I prefer barrel cleaners to q-tips because they don't shed all over the place when they get caught on something.

[@Pimentel-Kreations]

I wont use that Milliput even if it was free. Worst epoxy putty ever.

[@sheldonmartin8239]

That didn't look like fun lol

[@geraldshultz4271]

Why on earth did I 28 minutes of my time watching this video.

[@DoogsModels]

Not to mention the extra time to post a useless comment!

[@enviousfred]

Very good. In proper English too!

[@robertvanopstal6823]

Instructions were clear and helpful but maybe you could smoothen out your language too a bit?

[@steveshort2119]

Get to the point without all the BS