Filling seams, without ghost seams (Technique in Ten)

[@piotr.cichosz]

Really good tips! Me, as a person who is trying to start building it after a 20yr break… I will give a try to these products you mentioned!

[@witchywoman165]

Based on the video I just picked up the black CA filler. I think its going to be far more effective then the messy squadron putty I used to use that always cracked and shrunk and better than just thin zap a gap CA glue. Thanks for the vid in helping me choose a better product. Have a 1/48 KA-27 currently on the table awaiting some seam work.

[@CrazyLaurel]

Thanks, I am still trying to get the basics, and this is very helpful as I hone the seam-craft

[@marciomaiajr]

Super glue is really the way to go when it comes to getting rid of the ghost seams (or "hairline gaps" as I used to call them). In the past I really struggled with tamiya putty and mr.surfacer. They appear to get rid of the seams at first, but sometimes, even after the painting process, the seams would reappear. It was infuriating. The CA glue on the other hand is a one step affair. You apply and forget about the seams, they will never reappear. And it's easier to scribe after it dries than putty.

[@trex2621]

Technique seems a bit too messy for my taste. But idea is great.

[@boatingexplainedwithcapndr8359]

Is the yellow model tape similar to the yellow automotive painting tape? They look very similar, right down to the sheen. That auto tape is pretty cheap.

[@WasatchModeler]

This is washi tape. I get it from scrapbookers or you can get the tamiya branded or similar

[@PeteCourtier]

Automotive tape may have stronger adhesive so be careful.

[@rayb241]

With the super glue, there is a working time for sanding.. Otherwise the superglue sets harder than the plastic around it

[@WasatchModeler]

Interesting. I am usually impatient and so not wait too long for it to be an issue

[@rayb241]

@@WasatchModeler as long as its hours or less than a day later the CA isnt fully hard. Leave it a few days and its like glass

[@williammarshall6544]

I need a technique to drill a centred hole in a < 1mm piece of plastic rod to simulate a gun barrel?

[@WasatchModeler]

That is tough. I would start with a divot with a knife to get started. Use magnification. Then drill the hole

[@artsmodelstation9396]

Q: can u recommend a good gap filling super glue

[@WasatchModeler]

Starbond

[@TheronHampton-z3y]

Have you by any chance come across another provider for UV glue?

[@WasatchModeler]

I bought some on Amazon but they are hit and miss

[@iancarlin4694]

Green stuff world now do a UV resin AND a UV putty which has a consistency of petroleum jelly. Both can be cleaned before curing with dry cotton bud as shown but better with cotton bud dampened with IPA to reduce sanding. Just be careful not to drag it out of the gap.

[@DaveSmith-cq2nb]

Didn't you just bond the rudder to the fuselage with the Tamiya Putty?😆

[@WasatchModeler]

Huh? No Tamiya putty was used in this demo...

[@DaveSmith-cq2nb]

@@WasatchModeler Sorry my mistake, I meant just putty?

[@WasatchModeler]

Ah. The rudder was already bonded before filling in the gap

[@paulgertsch7105]

Thanks for the advice

[@SprueFascinationChannel]

Nice👌

[@robertmunoz7543]

Epoxy sculpt,dr microtools putty anyone?🤔 Jman

[@jeffc697]

Nothing new here...been doing this for years.

[@CFster]

Seriously, what is the point of this comment.

[@michaeltubbs4606]

​@@CFsterIt's a "Look at me, I'm smarter than you" comment.