FILM PHOTOGRAPHY FOR BEGINNERS - DARKROOM PRINTING

[@silva-anderida7695]

The clearest demonstration I've ever seen.Thanks.

[@betterbody2468]

A blast from the past. I had a Black & White darkroom in my basement when I was about 14. My interest in photography gave way to a career in Offset Printing as it was a originally a photo chemical process using orthochromatic film. Great presentation, thanks

[@ChrisSpinney]

Doing my first prints and this was a life saver. Just needed a quick like "hey this is how I do it" and this was perfect. Thank you so much.

[@fotolookconde]

@chris spinney welcome to the beautiful world of film photography! I have my KZbin channel dedicated to film photography if you want to have a look...

[@mimiashford5544]

THAT'S what I was looking for! THANK YOU so much for the detailed video that answered all my questions! On a side note, Im sorry I ever complained about the cost of developing pictures in the past ...I had no idea all the steps involved! Lovely you!

[@ianashton1593]

Really good video ! Recently retired and seriously looking at shooting film again and setting up a dark room. Brought back back lots of good memories seeing the image appear on the paper when you put it in the developer. Cheers.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Glad you enjoyed it Ian! Hope you find a way back

[@ianashton1593]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Off to the Isle of Skye early May and will be taking my old Hasselblad with me. Probably start off with a hybrid process until I can find an enlarger and set up a darkroom. Will be watching more of your videos. Cheers.

[@dirtywater5336]

You are a god amongst men for making these videos. I feel I'm ready to venture into darkroom printing and I find your videos so helpful.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

You can do it!

[@tonibriensify]

Superb! What a craftsman you are. Ace set-up too, this was a trip down memory lane for me, I did my 'A' Level Photography as a mature student at Farnborough Tech & set up a Darkroom at home, many a happy hour spent in the dark.. Thanks for putting these vids together. 😁

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Toni.

[@malbeats3600]

great video, exactly what i was looking for...thank you!

[@gameloozer731]

I usually make more or less straight prints. Rarely more than a filter or a small amount of dodging and burning. If my negative exposure is right I feel it looks accurate as is. I also like having my enlarged dialed in and being able to print negative after negative without really having to change exposure. Maybe that’s bad practice but I like to keep it simple

[@inevitablecraftslab]

same here :)

[@rogervincenttari2545]

Greetings, You've really explained a lot of my questions. Thanks for your brilliant teaching skills. All Best- R.T

[@niekvanwestering6804]

I've watched a lot of videos and this is the first one that answers all my questions.

[@mikessuttoncctx]

You Rock!! I was already a subscriber because of your other vids but by sheer coincidence I picked up the exact same Durst M605 Enlarger. I only had a vague idea how to make a print with it and will admit I was feeling a bit overwhelmed. After watching this I feel a lot more confident. Thank you so much for taking the time to share this video.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Good luck! :)

[@ianfrankish5114]

I'm back into the darkroom after many years away and your vids are great refresher course! There are always little tips and techniques that other people use and yours is one of the best👍and yes my darkroom is in a shed! 😂 keep your vids coming!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Ian. Happy printing!

[@fotolookconde]

I have the same experience! After 20 years without darkroom I set up one in my shed. Have a look on my KZbin channel dedicated to film photography

[@LiamFitz]

Brilliant comprehensive video

[@GigiDAmico]

thank you, next week I''ll get my first second hand equipment and I'll start from this video! I'm just confused on the massive amount of paper and chemicals in the market!! what I know is that I love deep dark black images, any feedbacks are very welcome! you are my reference now!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Stick to a Resin paper to start (fiber is expensive) Choose a 10x8 inch paper. If you like deep blacks have a look at Ilford MG Deluxe range. Gloss or Pearl. Gloss I find gives nice blacks. Expect a lot of wastage as you are testing and experimenting. For a cheaper paper have a look at Kentmere VC Select.

[@pepeg.luthier566]

Thank you. I am about to do my first print. This video was very helpful

[@fotolookconde]

Welcome to the beautiful world of film photography

[@nickfanzo]

How’s it been?

[@claudiotaras1289]

Splendid video

[@mrgregpappas]

Fantastic walkthrough. Thanks for making this video.

[@Soulkreed]

This looks incredible! Cannot wait around to witness a lot more like this. Great job.

[@fotolookconde]

@soulkreed have a look on my channel dedicated to film photography

[@reuschp]

Thanks so much for this great explanation! I have been shooting film for a while now… but never tried to do the developing and printing at home. But your video makes me want to try!

[@ljames43230]

Love your video’s and work flow. I’m slowly gearing up to print my own work and find your work very inspirational.

[@tonyparatore888]

I've set up a darkroom in my small bathroom... Temporary of course... Takes me about half an hour to set up and then to take it down... I'm using multigrade rc deluxe paper... And Ilford's chemicals... I've printed a few 18x24cm... I'm learning like you say... And I would like to thank you for the nice tips in your videos... Hello from Sicily... And keep printing...

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Hi Tony. I'm in a shed and it still takes me half hour to set up ha ha. I used to be in the bathroom too! Good luck with it and have fun.

[@nikyazikov6853]

I developed a couple of rolls of 35mm 400 film in my school's darkroom, but found that the negatives were thin and underdeveloped, so that when I tried to print they were very low contrast, even when I tried using the strongest contrast filter, either the whites were fogged or the blacks were too faded. I did the perfect time and number of agitations when developing so I'm not sure what I could do next time to avoid it getting underdeveloped. Great video too! It's good to just make sure that the things I've been doing pretty much by guesswork and piecemeal information are correct or not. While my school has a darkroom no one knows how to use it or help me use it so it's up to me to sort it out. Thanks again

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Developer could have gone bad maybe?. That's a bummer!

[@nikyazikov6853]

Shoot Film Like a Boss yeah I thought it might be the developer, I might have to see if Ican get some new one. I also wanted to know how you dry your negatives-when I hang mine down from a clothes line they curl massively when I take them off so it's almost impossible to make a contact sheet from them. Am I doing something wrong?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Oh! Mine seem to dry flat. Mostly Ilford films. In the bathroom. Normal room temp appx 20degrees. Maybe they will curl if the room is too warm? What film do you use?

[@nikyazikov6853]

Shoot Film Like a Boss Ilford pan 400 up to this point, but I've purchased some hp5 and tri-X instead, as I want to try different films. Might be a property of the pan 400 then? Thanks for the help.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Google "cupping". Possibly developer, film type, drying temp. I use Rodinal mostly and fp4 or hp5. Hang to dry in my bathroom which is cool, and use a weighted clip at the bottom of the strip to keep it straight.

[@augustog9095]

Great explanatory video. Thanks

[@ttroutindy30]

Love your channel and this is another good video keep up the great work!! I’m looking forward to printing in my “new” darkroom a converted guest bathroom. Think I have everything light tight and will try a test print this weekend. Cheers from Florida :)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Nice one. Hope it turns out well. Love Florida! Kissamme Old town car show.

[@fotolookconde]

Congratulations for your new darkroom. Have fun!

[@Dr.GeoDave]

Condenser actually collimates the light from the bulb and illuminates the negative evenly. The enlarger lens projects the negative onto the paper enlarging it in the process.

[@AndrewHenderson]

Nice refresher how to for me, haven't been in a darkroom for nearly 30 years, hope to remedy that soon, cheers..

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks for watching Andrew

[@Garacha222]

You covered something that is SO important. printing the proof sheet per the rebate ... so that it is slightly less black than the printing paper that has no negative on it. As you said, you learned that from this "proper proof", the image area shows that it is slightly less dense than you prefer, and that feedback valuably teaches you the effectivity of your process. In my opinion, this feedback- technique CANNOT BE OVER EMPHASIZED ENOUGH for film photographers, so as to improve future negatives. Separately, did you not use any filtration? you went with 'naked' enlarger light? My guess is that printing in this manner is similar to using a #2 , or #2 1/2 filter?? This video was excellent, and I liked your mentioning how fun the first full size print is... there's magic at that moment! you are keeping it fun

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I always start with 2.5 grade now for 99% of printing. It's a rock to stand on if you need to grade up or down. Cheers

[@gd3945]

Great job making everything seem manageable. Thanks!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Like riding a bike once you get going Gary

[@stuartcarden5402]

It's like magic but completely wonderful! Thank you

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I always find it fascinating seeing the image appear. First time you see your photograph for real 😊

[@stuartcarden5402]

It really is - I've been shooting film again for a while but I recently found out that my grandfather used to develop and print all his old photographs so I'm hoping to start myself and carry on his tradition :)

[@jdebultra]

Thank you. New subscriber. I was just was gifted with an enlarger. Need to pick up some odds and ends. This helps.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

jdebultra Thanks! If the vids help then it's all worth while 😁 Good luck with the set up!

[@jdebultra]

Shoot Film Like a Boss I had some questions from a book I've been reading and you answered them. Good stuff mate.

[@fotolookconde]

@jdebultra hopefully you are now working on your darkroom! I have my KZbin channel dedicated to film photography if you want to have a look!

[@Flying4Film]

Thank you so much for this video! You did an excellent job of explaining everything. I'm in the process of setting up my small home darkroom now and will hopefully be making prints in the next couple of weeks.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Best of luck and enjoy!

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

cheers brother good info im so going to invest in a sekonic 398 model meter for my F4 as bein a student I am having problems getting my negatives that custard look everyone wants great info as always

[@fotolookconde]

A good meter is a great tool. Welcome to the beautiful world of film photography!

[@pepeg.luthier566]

Thank you. Excellent video. Can you make one of contact printing 4x5 and 8x10 without the enlarger, for someone who is going to do it in the bathroom?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I don't shoot large format yet. I'd like to though.

[@fotolookconde]

@Pepe Guitarra I will print a contract print 5x4 and upload a video in my KZbin channel dedicated to film photography. I will do that soon...

[@pepeg.luthier566]

@@fotolookconde Great

[@kellziak]

Hey, I´m starting to print on my own. You Channel helped me so much to start building my darkroom. Thank you so much! I also bought a M605 and I´m wondering now about your exposure times. 3-6 seconds are really short. Today I had do expose 30-40 seconds on f8. I use a 75W bulb, how much watt your bulb has?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Some of my negs take that long too if they are dense or I'm blowing up (over exposed) my bulb is also 75w.

[@soulstart89]

great video. well explained.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks!

[@nostalgix8430]

This is a very nice and small focus finder you have there. Can you tell me what brand it is? I can only find the Patterson and Kaiser ones here. And I always kick those of the shelves because of their design. ;)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

It's very old. I think it's an old Patterson one.

[@nostalgix8430]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you for the reply. I will have to wait until I come across one at ebay then I guess. :)

[@jackyleecs]

Thank you for your elaborate demostration. If you were to include dodge and burn in process, I suppose that would make the exposure phase more fast paced? Since the exposure would be in the matter of a few seconds.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Not sure what you mean Jacky?

[@jackyleecs]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Opps! :p I meant to ask if you were to include dodge and burn into your printing process, do you need to have quick hands to do the dodge and burn within the exposure time which you have chosen? :)

[@dizkoteck]

Hi your videos have been the most in depth in the explanation of darkroom printing. Can you do a segment on 645 printing? I'm sure you know the carriers are crazy expensive. Do you have a masking procedure?

[@fotolookconde]

@dizcotek I will upload a video soon on my KZbin channel dedicated to film photography. I have all medium formats and large format as well. Just subscribe my channel and wait

[@squirrel0604]

Thanks for the video, very helpful! I want to start printing in the darkroom myself - so far only developing. I was wondering, are the times and temperatures for the chemicals baths very important? Because you seem to not put a lot of emphasis on this in the video. For developing, I know especially the developer timing and temperature can be the difference between a good negative and a bad one, while stop and fix are more loose.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

squirrel0604 You've already done the important part. Developing the negative. And you're right. That process is more important to get right. In the print you can relax and experiment. You have three trays to print with. Dev, stop and fix. As long as they are at the correct temp, usually 20°, and reasonably fresh and you have a good safelight then you can play with test strips and paper to your heart's content. As a start your test strips (resin paper) should be in Dev for a minute, stop 30s, fix 1 minute then wash. How you want the final print to look is down to you with exposure times whilst the paper is under the enlarger (dodging and burning, contrast filters). Hope this helps.

[@squirrel0604]

Yes, thank you :-)

[@fotolookconde]

Hope you already started printing...? Luis Conde Photography

[@terrywbreedlove]

I love that focus finder where can I get one of those.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

terry breedlove I was lucky and found it in a antique shop. No branding on it. It's very old!

[@bruce-le-smith]

fantastic video, thank you

[@brendagonzalez3253]

You and your video are awesome!!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thank you so much!

[@MrsyidiAdzmi]

Loving the video! I just got my hands on an enlarger and should be printing anytime soon. I just have a question regarding developer. How long do you recycle or reuse your developer solution before you throw them away and mix a new batch? Thank you! regards, Syidi

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Ahmad Mursyidi Adzmi Hi Ahmed. I've just made a new video on that. Have a look on my channel. Exhausted Developer Vs Fresh

[@MrsyidiAdzmi]

yes I just noticed the vid. Thank you very much I'm currently watching your vids every day to get me going with films :D

[@fotolookconde]

Welcome to the beautiful world of film photography. Luis Conde Photography

[@seemantadutta]

Thank you so much for making this video. I am in the process of making my feet wet (heh) in the world of darkroom printing and your video was very very informative.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks. Hope all goes well.

[@jameslowry1]

Oh they were the days I remember them well as I have been there done and it all processing colour slide colour negative and monochrome (B&W) film and then printing them as well afterwards although looking back I have to say printing colour slides (especially using Kodak chemicals and paper was the easiest) that is next to monochrome (B&W) printing of course

[@helxis]

What are the negative sleeves that you use? I've only ever seen the plastic variety, and I've been having issues with those scratching my negatives when I slide them in and out.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

They are by a company called Kenro.

[@cgmakery9650]

This was quite helpful

[@MrFedy1996]

Hi man, right in this period I'm thinking about trying to develop and print films by myself. I've searched on the internet an enlarger to buy, I've found a Durst B30 for 20 euros, which sounds a good price. Do you know if this enlarger is good enough? Can you tell me what parts I have to check to tell if it's in good shape? Thank you for answering me and conratulations for your channel :)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I don't know. I've only ever used my enlargers Durst m365 and BW375. If I was to buy another I'd make sure it enlarges and focuses freely, comes with a carrier and is clean and free from rust. Also I'd ask if it comes with a bulb and if the bulb lights up inside the enlarger. You'd need a timer so if that comes with the enlarger happy days!

[@MrFedy1996]

Shoot Film Like a Boss ok, thank you very much. I will check it soon. It comes with the lens, the bulb (75W) and the plastic trays. Do you think it's essential to have a timer like the durst you have? I thought I could have used an app on my phone..

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

MrFedy1996 That's a good deal. €20! Go for it. The trays would be worth that alone. Timer is important. It controls the on off of the bulb. You can get away without one to start off with, count yourself and start making prints but eventually you'll want one for more accurate work.

[@fotolookconde]

@ Esticami welcome to the beautiful world of film photography. Luis Conde Photography

[@ericdevese3561]

Great tutorial. Where can I find the focus finder that you're using?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I found mine in a antique shop

[@simonkeslake2782]

Hi, great video really well explained. I was looking to start developing my own film, but for the future, would love a dark room. I do have a shed that I could convert into a darkroom, what about the winter months, does it need to be a certain temperature not to effect the process, as well as being warm enough to work in? Thanks, regards.Simon

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

It's cold in the winter. Sweat box in the summer! in the summer I work at night when it's cool and keep all chems indoors. In the winter I use a heater. warm the shed up for about 20minutes then it's warm. Thermostat kicks in when temp drops. Have to keep it clean all the time to eliminate dust rising. Also in winter I keep all condensers, lenses and carriers indoors as they get cold and condensation gets to them when DR heats up. it's a struggle but it's all I have so have to make do with what I've got. But it works for me. 😊

[@simonkeslake2782]

That all sounds top advice, thanks. I'll get planning to convert the shed in the future, can't wait! best regards.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Simon Keslake I used bubble wrap all inside the wall panels. Then on top of that a black plastic sheet membrane. Then ply wood sheeting over that. Still cold in winter but keeps damp out.

[@fotolookconde]

I just started my darkroom. Hope you can fulfil your dream. Luis Conde Photography

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

have u tried the accordion bottles for your paper developer mate I use them for my dev can normally get 24 hrs out of it in air exposure but when it gets to the 20 hr mark I toss it to avoid brown prints as we all know

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Not yet buddy. I was saying in another thread I'll reuse me Dev for a few sessions over a few days. Not noticed any browning. Just slower Dev times. What Dev do you use?

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

Ilford multigrade in a 1:9 mix ive noticed with that type as soon as it starts to get an orange tinge to it the blacks will turn brown on me I thought i was cross contaminating but I checked with my supplier its a developer issue my supplier says he mixes up a ltr and by the 150 th print the dev tray is bone dry lol bigger paper likes more drink

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I usually use fotospeed, a Cheap and cheerful developer. And I'll mix it, bottle it and use it for quite a few sessions. Sometimes over a week! Never noticed a brown tinge on the prints. It just gets slower to develop, then I will mix a new batch. I ran out of the stuff so I used The Ilford Warmtone. Which I have had on my shelf, half used, for about 4 months. It looks like Orange Juice! When I mixed it I thought "That's off" But it worked quick and I can't see any problem with the print. I am going to get new developer. Print from a fresh batch. Bottle it. Leave it for a week and print another batch and compare. Should be interesting. My turn table idea didn't work!

[@keithjarrett4420]

Thank you for breaking it down for me

[@andrewfisher9391]

Great video, very well done.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Andrew!

[@andrewfisher7599]

Film Boss..- when you project a 35mm negative onto an 8x10 easel, do you crop your photos or enlarge full frame - as big as it will go on the 8x10. Would you need a “full frame” mask or will the borders turn out nice and clean.... I apologize if this makes no sense at all!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Andrew Fisher Hi Andrew. I do both. Print the whole 10x8 paper (I'll miss an inch of the neg either side) or if I want to bring the whole neg onto a 10x8 paper I just pull the image out a bit so it all fits. Which will leave a larger black border after projecting. Unless your carrier has , what I call, crop sheilds, I think I showed those in the video. Which you slide across stop the light hitting the edge of the paper. You can always make your own masks for the paper size you want. I use mount board to make mine. Does this answer your question?

[@andrewfisher7599]

This helps a lot - thanks again! I will watch this video a couple more times for sure!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Andrew Fisher pull the image in a bit I was meant to say (making it smaller and fit inside the 10x8 paper. )

[@scoobysnaks94]

Fantastic intro, thank you Boss!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Glad you like it!

[@funnymarco1]

Thanks for the great vid, for my first prints I used distilled water, is tap water ok to use?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Should be fine for prints. I always use tap water.

[@funnymarco1]

Thank you very much and I look forward to your vids...@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss

[@fotolookconde]

I allways used tap water without any problems. Luis Conde Photography

[@Jason_Redneck]

What are the weights you put on the mat board? I could not understand it. Great videos, I subscribed. Best, Maarten

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

They are just metal strips. They keep the board flat. So light doesn't seep under onto the paper border

[@wd9283]

Thank you!! So you made a 5x7 print from a 6x6 negative?

[@ellel3424]

Learned a lot，thanks！！！

[@lornenewman]

I really enjoy your videos, thanks, you have been a big help with getting started with my new hobby! One question, I have been searching the internet to find a focus finder like the one that you use in this video and all I seem to find are the microscope style ones (I have one and find it impossible to use) Could you provide the brand and model. of the one you use?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Lorne Newman I found it in a antique shop. it has no branding. it's bakelite plastics. so quite old. thanks ms for the kind words. good luck with the photography 🙂

[@annadenaro9919]

Great video, this may be a daft question but does it matter which way you put the negative into the carrier? Emulation side down?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Good question. I've never tried gloss side down.

[@felixfalck-nss2869]

Love your channel !! I have question I am a beginner in the Darkroom, I know how the darkroom works and stuff, but i was wondering if you could make a video on Hasselblad in studio or something with film in studio Best regards from a fan in Norway :D

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Hi Felix. Thanks for the comment. Not sure what you're asking there. Are you asking how to develop medium format film?

[@felixfalck-nss2869]

I meant to say you could make a video on the Hasselblad cameras, and then maybe bring them into the studio?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Felix Falck-Næss Ha Ha. I'm not lucky enough to own a hassy but if someone would kindly donate one I'd be very grateful!

[@fotolookconde]

Welcome to the beautiful world of film photography. Luis Conde Photography

[@tinytremble]

Great video thanks for sharing.

[@travissawatzky5205]

What are the black dots on your easle?

[@marcelkrijger4534]

great feed! why use a 75mm instead of a 50mm? does this have something to do with the fact you are using a medium format negative?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Yes Marcel. And a different lens board and condenser also.

[@antonismateris3782]

Thanks!! Great video

[@chrisjcoan]

Awesome video! I'm just about to start printing and this is exactly what I needed. Just out of interest, where did you get the glass from for the contact sheet?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

It's just photo frame glass. Nothing special

[@chrisjcoan]

Cheers! Never thought of using photo frame glass. Appreciate the advice

[@PerMoenCaptain]

Excellent. Thank you

[@mosephina]

Hi Roger...do we need a different developers for the film and print. If so, is it true for the stop bath and fixer as well?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I use the same fixer and stop for both film and print. But separate developer. I use print developer for my prints. Never film developer. I've read you can use film developer for printing but I've never tried

[@mosephina]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hi Roger...thank you for your reply. Since asking the question, I learned that you can use the film developer for print, but the ratio of developer to water is greater. That said, it's recommended to use print developer as it is formulated for the purpose more correctly.

[@andrewcroft2570]

Great video, do you need a different enlarger for colour and B&W, please?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Same enlarger but a different head. For me to print colour I would need a colour head that has filters inside that can be adjusted for the colour balance of the print. Some enlargers you cant swap the heads but this Durst M605 I can, but I don't have one

[@andrewcroft2570]

Thank you. @@ShootFilmLikeaBoss

[@emilyd-k2020]

I have just found your channel and am finding it so useful - thank you! I would love to start printing my own pictures very soon and I'm looking to gather the equipment and buy the chemicals. My apologies if it's on another of your videos but what chemicals do you use for the making your prints? And what paper would you recommend for a beginner? Thanks so much!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

HI Em, Ilford Multigrade Print Developer and Fotospeed Fixer and Stop I use. To start I'd recommend 5x7 paper. I use Kentmere VC Select Lustre paper. But Ilford Multigrade paper is also another brand I use from time to time. All Resin Coated. Hope this helps.

[@emilyd-k2020]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss That's so helpful, thank you so much!

[@michaelprior7459]

Very helpful, thanks!

[@obzockyphotography7682]

Thanks ...great video

[@RickMahoney2013]

Is this temperature Celsius or Fahrenheit?

[@baatzproductions197]

Thanks for this great video! If i may ask you two questions: - do you need a special holder/plate for 6x45 negatives or will the 6x6 one suffice? - is it possible to print medium format with the siricon 50 condenser and a 80mm lens, or do you need the siricon 80? The reason I'm asking is because I'm about to buy my first enlarger (first 605) but it neither has the 6x45 holder nor the siricon 80. Thanks in advance

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I'll be in my darkroom later Baatz so I'll have a look, I can't remember off hand. You can put 6x45 negs in a 6x6 easily but they may not lay as flat

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

You can but it causes some heavy vignetting around the edges missing quite a bit of the image edges. Hope that helps.

[@baatzproductions197]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks for the answers! I was already following the channel but really nice info you provide 👍

[@stefaanverlinde9726]

Thanks !

[@RickMahoney2013]

So this photo is basically what came out of the camera no touch up?

[@malcolmrendle6622]

just one question... the glass used on the contact printing what sort is it? normal picture frame glass, window glass or horticultural glass orrrrrrrrrr "Newton " glass?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Normal photoframe glass

[@shellise1103]

I'm going from digital to 35mm film and haven't even gotten my camera yet so please forgive the dumb question but how do you get the film from your camera to the negative holder? Like, do you just pop the top off the film canister and cut it up and put it in the negative holder in the enlarger before you print? And do you do it in the safe light?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

It's not dumb. You rewind the film back inside it's cannister inside the camera. You take the cannister out of the camera and then (in total darkness no light inside the room at all) remove the film from the cannister by prizing the top off like a bottle of beer. And then feed the film onto the developing tank reel and once that's done and your film is safe inside the tank you can turn the lights on and develop your film. Once your film is developed and fixed it can see the light of day.

[@shellise1103]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you!

[@BurningtunaDC]

Another in your long line of wonderful and will done videos about film photography. Please allow me to play devil's advocate. Why darkroom printing in the 21st Century? Would it not be cheaper and less time consuming to just scan your images? For the longest time I put off the thought of getting an enlarger as I don't have any room for one and how many of my images am I am going to hang on a wall anyway? It wasn't until I have been learning about the photography of Alexey Titarenko in the past few days that got me thinking that I could set up a small enlarger in the bathroom and stick it in a closet when I am not using it. There is a lot of room for several people to create enlarger buying guide videos here on KZbin. Thanks for taking all of us to (photography) school.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

For me personally I wanted to experience pre digital photography and the "magic" of the darkroom. The fascination grew from there. Its addictive in an inquizative sense. "what if I try this... Etc"

[@BurningtunaDC]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss For me there's a huge space issue. I am looking at an Omega that someone locally is asking $48 for. A steal...if it works. I really have no idea what I am doing in regards to printing but at one point I didn't know how to develop film either so these mountains are far from insurmountable. A quote from a range finder forum "I too use an Omega C700. IMO it's a good choice when space is at a premium." Love the print you did for this tutorial.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@BurningtunaDC yes, I started off in the bathroom with a board over the bath. It was a squeeze. I had a smaller enlarger. Then I went to the garage. Loads of space but too cold. So back the the bathroom. Eventually I converted the shed. I'd love an indoor darkroom but I'm lucky to have a shed

[@pfzheng6501]

thank you very much

[@jameslane3846]

Hey! I have an idea for another video for experimentation. I know you shoot black and white only but try printing some slide film on Fuji's silver halide colour paper that's supposed to be optimised for digital laser printing and see what happens. Can one still print positive film optically?

[@fotolookconde]

@james Lane I don't think we can find positive paper like Cibachrome nowadays! Did you find it? Luis Conde Photography

[@Ryan-lc4bl]

You can reversal process the RA-4 paper (color negative), developing it in B&W developer, and exposing the paper to light, then redevelop and bleach with color chemicals.

[@emeraldscorpio]

Do you change your developer after every print? If not how many prints would you make before changing it?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I can usually tell when it starts to exhuast during a session. And if I'm making lots of prints it can exhaust without you realising. The blacks don't come through as quick. I usually do a dmax text with a strip of paper when I mix fresh dev (how long it takes for paper to hit jet black) so if I feel it's on its way out I can do another dmax test and see if it's losing its flavour.

[@emeraldscorpio]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss brilliant mate, cheers

[@Reviveftp]

Awesome! Ty!!

[@filmlovephotography]

Hi Roger, let me ask you something, do you reuse your developer? Hug

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Pedro Cardoso Film developer? Yes I do. If I mix fresh print developer I'll put it back in the jug for a few more sessions. Unless I have commission prints to make. Then I'll use fresh dev and fix.

[@filmlovephotography]

Shoot Film Like a Boss I ask because, I use ilford multigrade and in the bottle say that you have only 24H to use when mixed. I only reuse my stop and fixer.

[@filmlovephotography]

Shoot Film Like a Boss like always great video and I hope that help people to start printing in the dark. Thanks and cheers.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

They want you to buy more! 😂. Next time jug it and see how long you can re use it for. Make a print using fresh Dev. Note the temp and times. Then after a few sessions make the same print, same temp and times and compare the two. Be interesting to know.

[@filmlovephotography]

Shoot Film Like a Boss next time I print I will try that, thanks.

[@troyjudkins3033]

great vid

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Troy.

[@RobBob555]

could explain what the " gloss mutigrade paper means etc mate, i dont have a clue about what photographic papers there are / how to handle em etc cheers

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Papers. They have a coating. Normally a glossy coat or a Matt coat. Matt is flat, less glossy. Years ago you had contrast graded paper. You'd choose a box of low contrast or high contrast or mid contrast, But today we have multigrade papers where we can control the contrast ourselves on the same paper using contrast filters under the lens of the enlarger. Most common paper is multigrade. But you can still buy separate graded paper.

[@Adrian-wd4rn]

When doing a test strip, how should I know to use a certain interval, example, 3-6-9-12, or 5-10-15-20? Or is it kind of a "wing it" and see which interval is closest to the print you want and then go in between a certain time...Example, I do 5 second intervals, but somewhere around 7 seconds looks better.? Also, do you do a full "test", example, like you make one print, then you say, I need to dodge and burn 4 areas, then make another final print with those edits?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Hi Adrian. Normal negs I do increments of 2s. If the neg is over exposed or dense I shall go 3 or maybe 5. But most of the time I am at 2s. And yes. I usually make a full size test to see what areas, if any, I need to work on. If I'm lucky I won't have to do anymore work and that print is fine. But that all depends on how fussy and hard you are on yourself...

[@Adrian-wd4rn]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hmmm. So a denser negative requires more time?...Do you have any videos on using the zone system with an old school spot meter?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@Adrian-wd4rn yes. Because the light from the enlarger to the paper has to travel through the negative. If the negative is heavy, dense then its harder to pass through. If the negative is thin or flat (under exposed) the light can pass through easily giving you much less time to print. I've a video a few months back on trying the zone system which had some great comments. You'll see the thumbnail if you scroll through

[@Adrian-wd4rn]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I just watched it! In the mean time, I shot a sunrise and sunset in the same day doing the zone system, a few shots with no GND and a few shots with GND....Man, that stuff is a game changer.

[@hectormedina8822]

Can you used the same machine to print in color???

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I can but I need a colour head for it. I don't have one. You can find them online used.

[@hectormedina8822]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss perfect i will buy one i like you work i am frome México ens. And i am starting analógic pictures

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@hectormedina8822 ahh, from Mexico! Good luck with your analogue photography

[@saulmelman]

Hi - how does one tell when the image has been fixed well enough / the silver has been fixed ?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Fresh fixer and a minute or so and the print (resin) will be fixed. If it's not you will start to see stains on the print. If you really want to see hold the print to a bright light as it is drying. If it is not fixed fully you'll see it change colour, usually a light purple tinge

[@saulmelman]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss HI. TY. I'm developing / fixing silver gelatin prints. Is there an aspect of looking at the print during fixing that one can determine the fixing time - at what moment the image is fixed ? for example looking for the "fog" of the print go away ? if so how does one do that ?

[@disarmsox]

What's the best print size for a 35mm negative?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I don't usually go larger than 10x8 inch for 35mm neg. Although I've had decent enough results at 16x12 inch.

[@Bigdave_t4]

Morning, i have 1 reel of medium film thats come out of camera and had nothing done to it since i took it, its of a christening within my family years ago, not sure on the process what do i have to do with it?? Dont want to unreel it as dont want to ruin it, it was taken with yashica mat tlr Cheers

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Nice Dave. Personally I would stand develop it as I wouldn't be sure of the films speed loss over time. Do ask around but that's what I would be inclined to do

[@Bigdave_t4]

Thankyou, il give it a look online

[@manuobi1513]

How much did your equipment cost?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Hey Manu. The enlarger was about £100 all in on ebay. The rest was relitively cheap. Mostly found at second hand shops and schools that have discontinued their darkrooms.

[@manuobi1513]

Shoot Film Like a Boss Thanks! I'm thinking about building my own darkroom. How often or how much do you print?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

All the time Manu. Sparingly of course! (I add... as often as I can)

[@MrFoldback]

Danke!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Wow, thanks MrFoldback!

[@edotttv2307]

Anyone recommend a camera to start with?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Budget comes into play. You'll get a cracking SLR for £100. Chinon SLRs are also good value such as the Chinon CS, Chinon CE5 and they are less than £50. If you've got the budget look at Canon AE1, Olympus OM20 or 10, Pentax K1000 or Spotmatic, Nikon F2, F3. Many more.

[@edotttv2307]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Mind sharing where I can find film enlargers?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@edotttv2307 look on eBay. That's where I look or Facebook market place. Can sometimes find a gem on there. Just search darkroom enlarger or darkroom

[@inevitablecraftslab]

20:34 ... Californians will be like "nooo don't waste all that precious water !!! i can water my almond trees for 5 min with that amount !!"

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Goes into a container. I wash the car with it

[@inevitablecraftslab]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss wasn't meant as an offense, i water with tapwater all the time, but we have LOTs of water where i am so ...

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@inevitablecraftslab I know lol

[@fotolookconde]

@inevitable no doubt we need to care more and more for the environment. I am gathering all chemicals in a bid can to take to recycling!

[@imjusttoodissgusted5620]

I discovered an enexpensive source of 1 ltr brown chemical bottles, empty hydrogen peroxide bottles, two full ones from amazon are under 6 bucks.

[@fotolookconde]

@ Imjusttoodisgust even cheaper.... Brown glass bottles for ales and beers. We enjoy the drink and have free bottles!!! I sprayed mines with black paint. They're great! Have a look on my KZbin channel dedicated to film photography

[@MrHerrera805]

Thanks!

[@MrHerrera805]

Very useful info. Thanks for taking the time to go through all the steps.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Frank. So kind.