Final Phase 9 Honda XR600 Oilpump Priming Startup Breakin Procedure

After installing the engine in the frame, i primed the oilpump to prevent an airlock. I tried to do this in the best possible way, in different steps to insure i have oilflow in the system. When the bike started up, i followed the "hard break-in" procedure to get the best possible seal between the pistonrings and the cylinderwall.
First 30km (20mls) 1500 to 3000rpm (using gaspressure!!!)
Oilchange+filter
Until 100Km 1500 short burst to 4500rpm.
Oilchange+filter
Then bit by bit stretch the rpm range.
Check the video of motardsteve, he gives a good break-in procedure on his Husky.
• How To Break In Your N...

[@G58]

That’s a proper bike. I bet most kids today have no idea what a kick start or a carburettor are, never mind how use them. Thank you for sharing. Great bike. Excellent workmanship. Beautiful countryside.

[@cjsgarage3662]

Thanks! Yep, everyone wants the basic bikes nowadays :). No crappy sensors!

[@G58]

cj's garage True. I’m in the process of upgrading a BMW F650GS Dakar engine with a Mikuni flat slide carb and fitting it into a lighter conventional frame, to create a simpler and lighter bike. But I’m a huge Honda fan. Most of my other road bikes are Hondas. I should have bought an XR back when no one wanted them!

[@cjsgarage3662]

@@G58 it's not too late, buy one around 1800,- and conserve it for later :)

[@G58]

cj's garage I wish. Got too much money tied up in other projects right now. Several restorations for riding. Some are also intended as long term retirement investments, so I can’t sell them. Will just have to hope I get lucky and find a cheap one.

[@thorstenwanoth6774]

My XR650L engine is waiting for me in the garage. 10.5:1 piston and I hope all things work out. Cool video!

[@cjsgarage3662]

thanks! good luck with your bike. Do check if the head is getting oil :)

[@alphamale7424]

Damn fine series my friend! Thank you for all the extra work you put in for us to be able to make use of it!

[@cjsgarage3662]

thanks!

[@joer3890]

Quality technique applied in the rebuild and very sound mechanical physics explained... only one minor criticism.... no need for the music as that Nice new XR motor note was a sweeeet note on it's own!!!

[@cjsgarage3662]

Thanks Joe, you're right. That thumper roars through the valley :)

[@peterjames448]

Yes, I undid the upper banjo….. it came pissing out so I’m pretty sure the cam is getting lube lol 😂

[@mariaingasandoval5292]

Buen trabajo saludos desde Perú...

[@slppissa]

I feel lucky to see this video. In my country a lot of garages used to keep running idle after rebuilding the engines. Recently I remove the engine for a painting job and when it fixing I couldn't run the oil pump as you did. will it gonna be a problem? the Oil is coming up probably when I check the line

[@cjsgarage3662]

no need, testing it was just curiosity. When you're ready look at the part like you said. Pumping the oil up when kickstarting it. When you see oil you know for sure it's ok. And ofcourse, a small idle warmup. Then turn of too cool down (some do that cycle for 3 times). After that the hard break in (after warming up while driving ofcourse.)> Good luck with the break in!!

[@slppissa]

@@cjsgarage3662 Thanks for sharing your knowledge. will keep in touch with your channel

[@mouser656]

amazing bro congratulations i loved this moto

[@slppissa]

Hello bose, does piston rings replacement requires engine seasoning or braking ?

[@cjsgarage3662]

@@slppissa yes, you have to do a quick honing to get the surface rough. Then new rings, mineral oil and this braking in procedure

[@slppissa]

@@cjsgarage3662 Thanks a lot

[@cjsgarage3662]

@@slppissa your welcome, good luck with your project ps: see honing video, i use ATF for honing by hand for the lubrication, works better than WD40

[@phoenix240166]

Great Tutorial and Edit!how much did you spend in parts buying and where did you get everything😮

[@cjsgarage3662]

Thanks! cmsnl.com, expensive but good..Original parts And offroadvaassen in Holland cylinderhead and cylinder. camshaft ebay israel somewhere around 1400,- but stopped counting at 1000,- :)

[@Josh-co7pz]

Excellent video! Thanks. Do yo have the part number for the crankshaft seal at 1:50? I can't seem to find it

[@cjsgarage3662]

OIL SEAL,14X22X5 Partnumber honda: 91201-KF0-003 CMSNL: www.cmsnl.com/honda-xr600r-1987-h-belgium_model6867/oil-seal-14x22x5_91201kf0003/ nr23 on drawing; www.cmsnl.com/honda-xr600r-1987-h-belgium_model6867/partslist/E__0700.html#.Yg_CF-jMKUk Just order two, always good to have one spare :)

[@Josh-co7pz]

@@cjsgarage3662 Thanks man! I'm rebuilding my XR650L.. Very similar engine but I have no kickstart. Do you think I can follow this same procedure but instead of using the kickstart I can turn the the engine over via electric start a few times to prime the oil pump? (Leaving the spark plug out) Cheers

[@cjsgarage3662]

@@Josh-co7pz think that wil work! With the sparkplug out theres also no compression so it would be much more easier.

[@grantboltman4545]

Thanks for the videos and detailed work. Busy rebuilding an XR 500 and want to split the case and reassemble. It looks like the 600 and 500 are very similar. CJ can you help with torque specs and other tech info? The downloads of your pdf don't seem to work my side. Can I DM you in some way

[@ralphouano5665]

Hello, what's the part number for the seal at 1:50 I can't seem to find it on the crankshaft and crankcase diagrams

[@edgardoperezjr9455]

Same here

[@larsborgman3443]

@@edgardoperezjr9455 it is on the clutch drawing

[@gerardkupke63]

Respect‼How much km's to the first oil change? I have the same projekt right now. Best regards from Germany

[@hansottosmotos]

Great work on you bike! I wonder if you can help me on a matter with my XR650L. It makes these classic ticking/clunking sound which often is the cam tensioner. But on my bike it only does it the first 10 mins on warm up. After that is sounds very fine and consistent. First thought for me is the valves, but i've adjusted them and should be fine. Can the oneway clutch in the tensioner makes this cold engine noises? I dont really understand why no noises when warm. I ask since noises arent too good the way they are when cold.

[@cjsgarage3662]

First of all, the head is getting enough oilpressure quickly at the start? When you loosen the upper banjo, then start the bike within 5 to 10 seconds you should see oilflow then tighten the banjo. Strange that it is the other way around on your bike, noisy when cold. Like you saw mine was noisy when warm. Is the noise really comming from the chain, and not from the crank of piston? Perhaps there is too much play on the piston and when it warms up it expands and noise is gone? I couldnt think of something else... If...if it is the piston. Do you notice lack of compression or loss of engine oil? If you find out what it is, please share.

[@cjsgarage3662]

PS: saw your movie 05.10.19. It really sounds clunky yes. Perhaps you can make a short clip with engine cold and engine warm?

[@hansottosmotos]

@@cjsgarage3662 Hi again, there is no oil consumption and compression is fine, but as you say, could be play in pistonrods or crankbearings which goes away when warm, but i can hear the cam chain rattle once i a while when cold. I will record the warmup so you can hear.

[@hansottosmotos]

@@cjsgarage3662 Hi again cj...i uploaded a clip from cold to warm...noise is pretty much gone the last minute of the clip. Sorry for backwards camera angle 😁 here is clip kzbin.info/www/bejne/d3K9Yp6VmtJrobM

[@JohsBeemer]

Hello cj, looks good !!!! Engine runs good now. Do you prefer the standard gearing for on-road?

[@cjsgarage3662]

For road use i would like some extra speed, but i keep it as Honda intended. Try to keep this bike as original as possible.

[@gertkristensen6451]

respect . 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@tiagocardiga1634]

Hi CJ, thank you for your videos, they are a great help! We are preparing a NX650 Dominator engine that has been rebored to 0.25. The bike is a flat track bike that will be used for racing. How many kms do you recommend for the break in, until the rider can use it flat out? Thanks!

[@cjsgarage3662]

hard to say, just a gut feeling but after the first oilchange i think you're good to go. Never a bad idea to be gentle the next hundred km but flatout is better than let an engine idle (glazed cylinderwalls no bueno). Good luck! Are you making a video of your rebuild as well?

[@alphamale7424]

@@cjsgarage3662 I agree, I was always told by the old heads that whatever the engine is built for…..break it in as such!

[@83DrBones]

sauber. Wo bist du unterwegs? das ist doch in Deutschland.

[@cjsgarage3662]

yep, correct!

[@grndragon2443]

You don't happen to know what things to do to get more oil to the camshaft?

[@cjsgarage3662]

no, but what i know is that some peopple drill the oilholes at the end of the camshaft a bit larger. The honda engineers built it like it is. I think over time (most are old bikes now and hammered) the seals get hard and don't seal of that good anymore. Replace all the oilseals iin the oilflow (crankseal brown one, o-rings of oilpump etc etc..)

[@WOLFZEIT_]

Hi CJ I am having a wet sump issue with my XR650L and was wondering if the pressure relief valve in the oil pump is supposed to stop oil leak back from frame tank ?

[@cjsgarage3662]

sorry for my late answer, yes it should, but i notice that the oil flows away after time. So after s short idle run the oilreservoir is filled again.

[@Josh-co7pz]

Hi CJ. I installed a brand new oil pump on my XR650L (filled with oil as the manual states), then followed your video but there is zero oil coming out the check valve :( I tried connecting everything back up and filling the frame with oil but still no oil coming out. Do you know what i can check? Thanks!

[@cjsgarage3662]

hmmm....... what you can do is the ingoing oil line from the frame.......... put a syringe onto it with oil and forcefeed the oil into the engine while rotating the oilpumpaxle....... this way you forcefeed oil into it. If this doesnt work check if the checkvalve is stuck. It should move freely (without the spring pushing back ofcourse). But you can remove the spring to check if it moves freely. WAIT! Didnlt you forget the 0ring on the backside of the oilpump? Where tjhe oilpump touches the crankshafthousing ? (where the oilline comes from th ehose outside into the crankcase and towards the oilpump? there is a Oring!

[@Josh-co7pz]

@@cjsgarage3662 Thanks for the reply! I managed to get it working after the bike was left with some oil in the frame. I think the check valve was stuck and had trapped air in the pump :)

[@osalcedoucmsae]

I’m about to replace my motor on my 85 XL600R with an 86 lower mileage motor that I have as a spare and it’s all ready to go, do I need to prime the pump that many times? Also can I clean out the pump inlet without needed to completely remove the pump?(just in case there’s dirt in the surface of the inlet even though it had a small piece of rag stuffed in there)

[@cjsgarage3662]

Ofcourse, just put the oil in the frame and start kicking it until oil flows out of the upper banjobolt and you're done. (i was doing it as a bit overkill). BUT! when there is no oil comming out i would not try to start the engine. Probably you need to prime the pump with a syringe or something. But in most cases filling it with oil, and kick it loads of times until oil flow out of the upper banjo it will do. Good luck!

[@peterjames448]

Do you have to carry out this priming procedure every time you do an oil change??

[@cjsgarage3662]

no, i just wanted to be sure i wouldnt fck it up . only would open the upper banjo, and start the bike. You wil see oil flushing out at about 10sec to be sure you have oil in the heaad

[@conniehuman9458]

hi CJ was wondering if you can assist. I bought an xr500 with duel carbs and the guy who worked on the bike just gave the previous owner a funny looking bolt that he stripped on the tip. Now I see that you have those same bolts but as a set. How many should they be, I need to find the correct parts to fix the bike to the best of my ability. what happens now is as soon as you start the bike it starts building up compression and before you know it, it starts loosing compression on the side of the motor, you can literally see the combustion happen if you rev the motor just a little bit. kind regards Connie from South Africa

[@cjsgarage3662]

Hello Connie, I have some questions. The "stripped bolts", do you have a link where i can see which one you mean? And second, where does it loose compression>? i don't really get it. Reading your story i can only make up that the decompression lever is too tight so the right exhaust valve is pushed in a littlebit so compression isnt built up anymore.. Did this help you?

[@conniehuman9458]

@@cjsgarage3662 can you possibly give me your name and so on to add you to messenger then i can explain everything. It looks like a build up of compression to the extent that the barrel and bottom en start making a gap. The bolts are the ones holding the barrel to bottom end. They have normal thread at the end and what looks like a spiral effect to the top of the bolt's head. In the middle there is a small space where the bolt has a shank. Between spiral and thread

[@cjsgarage3662]

@@conniehuman9458 Ha Connie, i have an idea what you mean! the "cylinderbolts"www.cmsnl.com/honda-xr600r-1987-h-belgium_model6867/bolt-flange-8x70_90082mg3003/#.X_9rBehKiUk they hold your cylinder onto the engine casings. There is a difference between the 1987s and the 1988 versions! Mine is 8mm and the other is 9mm Be sure the parts are connected the right way. check www.cmsnl.com/honda-xr600r-1987-h-belgium_model6867/partslist/#.X_9q7uhKiUk if you used the right parts! It seems things are comming loose... that ain't good. And ofcourse, use new gaskets !

[@conniehuman9458]

@@cjsgarage3662 you are 100% correct. Thing is that someone else did the motor and im kind of in the dark. So thank you very much for the assistance. I fastened all bolts but it seems to need those splines to help transfer pressure or something. It does not do that from startup. It takes like 2 minutes to start loosing compression. I dont think all the bolts look like this one, problem is that in SA im struggling to get them

[@cjsgarage3662]

@@conniehuman9458 i think that website is also selling to SA.

[@jump19845150]

sehr gut!

[@cyrillebrazidec2496]

escuse me but fot you for one 250 xr Honda 1989 what its the best oïl i buy some repsole 20w50 and live in bretagne in frenche motor news and i want the best oïl sorry for my English

[@cjsgarage3662]

No probs, your english is fine!. The most important thing is the "Specification". That's something else than viscosity. Honda prescribes SE of SF multigrade oil. So any letter that's higher (further down the alphabet) is good. For example: if you have an "SJ" that good. The oil you are using is ok . Can you send me all your information of the oil you are using? Is the engine new of already used?

[@cyrillebrazidec2496]

@@cjsgarage3662 castrol SAE 20w50;jaso MA-2 (T903:2011);API SJ in mi region winter mini 0 degres celcicus en sunner 30/35degres frenche climat witch golfe Stream not relie cold

[@cjsgarage3662]

@@cyrillebrazidec2496 I just opened the other manual. They don't show the higher temperatures than 15degrees celcius and prefer 10w40 multigrade. But.....20w50 is alittle thicker, but would do just fine.... that's my opinion.

[@jimbo4203]

@@cjsgarage3662 yes the 20 50 Castrol works great, the 600 is a hot girl , and she likes fresh oil !

[@ederh.m6130]

👌👍⛽💪💪💪