Final Preparations Before Insulating Exterior Walls

We are ready for spray foam insulation. We think this is the best choice for our post frame home because it adds structural strength and will make the home extremely efficient. Thanks to everyone who has submitted questions and asked us about it, we will be putting out a video on it when the job is complete.
Thank you for following our journey. Subscribe, Like, + Share if you haven’t already!
We’re enjoying all of the messages we get about projects + ideas!
Tool | Equipment | House Recommendations
www.amazon.com...
Daily Updates
Instagram / marshallremodel
Facebook / marshallremodel
Email | Website
[e-mail]
www.marshallremodel.com
Watch Next
Post Frame Construction Breakdown • Post Frame Constructio...
Recommendations When Building • Recommendations When B...
Music Licensing through Soundstripe
soundstripe.com?fpr=marshall10
Use code Marshall10 for 10% off your subscription!
#postframe #selfbuild #construction

[@jbsprengeler3147]

I've never been more excited to watch someone else get spray foam lol

[@CharisBreadcasting]

Another advantage of the house wrap... If you ever sustain damage to an exterior piece of steel and need it replaced it will be a simple swap out. W/O the wrap the spray-foam would adhere to the steel so you would lose that entire section of insulation when removing damaged steel panel.

[@stephanielongden597]

Can't wait to see your house finished. It's looking amazing already.

[@MrPostFrame]

Thank you!! 😊

[@joelkeever1506]

I am loving this series. Some day I would love to build my own shed house. Your are doing an amazing job documenting the process really looking forward to see what ya do on the inside.

[@stripperman11]

Keep it up man, thanks for sharing

[@davehoover8214]

This is definitely a fun project to watch. I appreciate the time you take to put it all together. Very much looking forward to the spray foam. I have been having a tough time convicing myself to use it on our new place when we build.

[@joopterwijn]

I always use OSB boards (~9mm or ~5/16”) on the inside behind the plasterboards, it will stiffen up the wall and hanging stuff is no problem any where.

[@nickpersenaire4443]

I just found your channel. Really great content 👍 keep up the great work. Your attention to detail is unbelievable. I'm looking at building my own shop in the next year or so. Thanks for sharing all the tips and tricks. You are so correct on if you want to do something learn about it and then Do It. Knowledge is power. Catch you on the next one.

[@Romowens01]

Greetings from Altoona. The wind yesterday was crazy. Keep up the good work.

[@IzzyEatz]

Can’t wait to see the spray foam!!!!!!!!!!!! Update

[@MrPostFrame]

Me too. Lol

[@paulharper7808]

What furnace will you use and will your furnace and heat pump for your floor heating be in the same location? Will the duct work be in the floor joices?

[@Jon41181]

I'm doing the exact same thing in Michigan right now but in slightly different climate. One quesiton about the spray foam and your wrap: I had some concern about the foam only adhering to the wrap and then the same "flapping" you hear would not have foam attached creating "booms" from it hitting the siding. Fantastic build in any case! I watch your stuff all the time!

[@MrPostFrame]

It will be fine. As the foam expands it will seal and attach to the posts and house wrap and it becomes solid and it won’t move.

[@Jon41181]

@@MrPostFrame Out of curiosity, do you think this played any part in the condensation that you're facing today? Very sorry to hear about the set back, just trying to understand as I am consulting on a few builds here in Michigan. I have not run into this without the wrap and my spray foam directly on the metal. I am roughly in the same spot as you right now with my build and love watching your videos... i should have done something similar with youtube :) Check #myslice or @Palm9473 on Instagram if interested in seeing my process/progress

[@hammertime7349]

U mite of just sold me on that house wrap

[@gordonfrank]

Hi, what happened to the spray foam video where you interview the contractor and cover spray foam costs?

[@winnewlife]

Slow motion chalk line!

[@teebugg66]

What kind of wind load will that building hold? I’m in Florida and we have really strict codes for wind load. I’d like to build a barn and turn it into a house but don’t know what type of structure would give the best wind load for hurricanes.

[@MrPostFrame]

@Keven Carey is putting up one in Florida that is certified for 150 mph winds. Maybe reach out to him to see who engineered his building. They can definitely build them to with stand the winds but up here they are built for around 90 mph winds.

[@47965]

Look into Tri-Force instead of I-Beams

[@59seank]

I've never seen such wide spacing between roof trusses. I think they are usually 24" apart.

[@thesilkymodine]

59seank I was wondering as well. What about snow load? What state is he in? I’ve seen another series where the used prefabricated steel trusses with U channels for wood cross bracing. That looked nice and strong but also they left it open and vaulted on the inside.

[@thesilkymodine]

Ah...Iowa. Pittsburgh region here.

[@MrPostFrame]

It’s the way post frames are constructed. The trusses are built to be spaced further apart then you set your purlins 24” on center and then your actual roofing is attached to the purlins.

[@jameschupp2230]

I didn't see any wind x-bracing in the center of the building walls or ceiling, but I think the would be a good idea.

[@MrPostFrame]

I just recently put all the wind bracing up on the ceiling. The corner bracing can’t be put in because of windows but that is why the porch was placed where it is to strengthen those to sides of the house. There will be two floors in the house so all that framing will give extra strength as it will be tied into the posts. Then I also have the garage tied into the house as well which gives extra bracing and strength.

[@jameschupp2230]

@@MrPostFrame You are doing a great job! I haven't seen the bracing yet on the ceiling. But I noticed walls without bracing. The bracing type I was thinking would still be good to do, is like what Kyle of RR Buildings does on his buildings, I still think down the road you'll be happy you did it. Here is a quick video of what I am referring to at 8:52 for the wall braces: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKankouNhr-fjdU Keep up the good work. Your upper level 55 ft area is a good idea.

[@paulharper7808]

For your inside framing will you do inside purlins for your walls and run your electrical wiring on top of the spray foam?

[@MrPostFrame]

In future videos I will cover all of this.

[@CrustyAbsconder]

I am still confused about what was done wrong on the insulation. How would you make sure it never happened on the next build ??

[@bryangrant6055]

Everything is looking awesome! Did you do the concrete scoring yourself or did the contractors do it?

[@MrPostFrame]

I told them what I wanted and they did it. They had a nice walk behind machine. I think it turned out great.

[@Djsnow128]

What books or resources would you suggest for a complete building guide on the how to's? From electrical to plumbing, to building codes?

[@MrPostFrame]

The first book I ever bought was from Home Depot called “Home Improvement 123” and that was very useful to me when I started. There are so many codes you almost have to have a code book. But most of the How to books adhere to codes.

[@davidmoss4314]

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't be better to install the plywood insulation stop flush to the outside of the wall framing? It appears that as it sits now, the spray foam insulation will fill the wall cavity to the top cord of the framing and the blown insulation will also fill to the edge of the top cord but will not overlap causing a break. The plywood being exposed at the soffit would then create a thermal transfer to the corner of the finished drywall. It looks like the two insulated envelopes meet at the corner but should overlap. I'm not be able to see the detail at the corner on the video so I may be wrong but throwing it out there incase it needs to be modified before foam is applied.

[@MrPostFrame]

The spray foam will go up at least 12” above the bottom of the truss extending into the attic Space then the blow in insulation will be put in and they will over lap. I know it’s hard to see but the bottom of the plywood insulation stop is about 12”s above the finished ceiling.

[@MrPostFrame]

Hope that answers your question if I understand it correctly. The plywood is attached to the top girt which is on the outside portion of the columns.

[@davidmoss4314]

@@MrPostFrame, makes sense. We are getting ready to start our build here in Florida which is also post frame. Been watching your channel for ideas along with a few others. Keep up the good work.

[@austinmccollum4168]

What kind of snow load is your roof rated for?

[@tjeick]

So you’re doing forced air along with your heated floors? Seems like you would be plenty warm with just the radiant heat, unless you’re not putting the radiant heat upstairs?

[@MrPostFrame]

No radiant heat upstairs but I need a forced air system for air conditioning mainly.

[@dougschack9341]

Question: are post framed homes noisy? Are there pops and creaks from the metal moving in the wind and/or thermal expansion/contraction?

[@MrPostFrame]

Most of the noise you here in the video is from the house wrap I have covering the garage door openings. Once all the insulation, walls, and ceiling are in it is very quiet.

[@mycool8980]

Don't ya need a firewall between garage n living space?

[@MrPostFrame]

The entire wall between the house and garage will have metal on it. Even where my main ductwork runs will be boxed in and metaled.

[@NickWhite630]

Are your wind braces on backwards? I've always seen them from the lower cord of the outside truss to upper of the inside. Maybe you just did that side like that because of the garage wall?

[@MrPostFrame]

My building blue prints did not call for the bracing that I think you are talking about. I wanted to add them for extra strength. I’ve seen it done both ways so I’m not sure technically which way is right or wrong or if either way is. However I felt that starting the bracing at the top of the center post and taking it down to the bottom chord made more sense as most of your wind force and leverage will be at the top of that post. I placed them on both ends of the building so there will be opposing forces if that makes any sense. The top chords of the trusses are tied together with the purlins and steel and the bottom chords will be tied together with my ceiling joists and what ever my finished ceiling is.

[@kayloncampbell9782]

I’m a little confused on how you going to insulate? Why didn’t you put house wrap on your roof? Like someone else said if you had he’ll damage you could replace a panel without messing up your spray foam. I have just built a home just like this and that’s what I did. Also you better cover all of your floor for the spray foam bc it will go everywhere.

[@kayloncampbell9782]

Also you mentioned something ab air for the soffits “venting maybe”? Why are you venting if your spraying your roof. ?

[@MrPostFrame]

I’m not spraying my roof or I would have put a barrier up. I’m taking the spray foam up the sidewalls a foot above the ceiling and then there will be blow in insulation in the attic. Then the attic will still vent.

[@kmoss7773]

Why not wait until all of the interior framing is done before you insulate? I would have thought you would want the wiring done also?

[@MrPostFrame]

It will make more sense what I’m doing as the videos continue. I wanted as much of a continuous thermal break with the spray foam so a 3” application and then framing my walls is what I chose to do and then all my wiring and any plumbing won’t be buried in the spray foam. It will be much easier for them to spray as well.

[@kmoss7773]

That makes sense. It will definitely be easier for the spray foam install. Looking forward to seeing your continued progress!

[@pjseiber2774]

👍😛👍

[@nickpersenaire4443]

If you haven't yet check out Kyle @ RR building's on KZbin. Great guy great channel.

[@chessiekid4018]

Apparently you haven’t watched enough of these videos. Paul does watch RR buildings and has use Kyles techniques and has given Kyle shoutouts on his vids.

[@johnlyn1]

Does spraying the foam directly to the metal on the roof not cause an issue with condensation build up between the metal and foam?

[@MrPostFrame]

Closed cell foam is a vapor barrier so no it would be fine from my understanding. That’s one of my questions for my spray foam guy in the question and answer Video I’m doing with him.

[@johnlyn1]

@@MrPostFrame Okay, so then that would beg the question, would using open cell foam on the ceiling be a problem with condensation? One of things I heard was using closed cell foam would prevent you from knowing if their was ever leak in the roof because it blocks moisture from getting through and that could cause a problem where by the time you discover there was a leak it will have caused a lot of damage. But if you use open cell foam on the roof any leaks would be able to show up since moisture can seep through easier allowing you to detect it before it causes a lot of damage. They said you should use open cell for the roof and closed cell for the wall. I forget which video I seen this or would post the link to it.

[@MegaCb45]

@@johnlyn1 Foam is liquid applied then expands, closed cell expands about 30 times its liquid volume. Knowing this,where would there be room for water to pool? Most closed cell foams are less than 1 perm @ 2 inches. Saying closed cell foam will hold water and ruin your roof is hearsay. Its not impossible but highly unlikely. Besides, since when is a leaking roof the insulation's fault.

[@johnlyn1]

@@MegaCb45 Its been said if the roof leaks, you will never know because the water doesn't leak through the foam, but as water leaks it can find its way to the wood rafters and run down the rafters and eventually cause more wood damage by the time you discover there is a leak. It would also be hard to determine where the leak is coming from. With open cell foam in the ceiling a leak in the roof would allow water to seep through the foam where you would not only know you had a leak, but you would also know exactly where it is coming from and repair the leak before water has had a long time to seep its way around the rafters and find its way into the wood studs of the wall and cause extensive damage by the time you discovered there was leak. No one said a leaking roof is the insulation's fault. Only that closed cell foam can hide a roof leak for a long time since water won't seep through the foam forcing the water to seep along the wood rafters. Water has to go somewhere and it will always find a path to run through if it can't seep its way through the foam.

[@MegaCb45]

@@johnlyn1Good points, BUT... If any cracks and crevices are filled with an expanding vapor barrier, then where are these leaks coming from? If we are judging a product based on what is basically a statistical anomaly ( internet conjecture and hearsay aside) instead of all its stellar benefits, then we are setting the bar very low. If foam roof decks were that bad ,you couldnt get one insured.

[@whitetrashwisdom1987]

What state is this in?

[@MrPostFrame]

Iowa

[@phillipfalconer1270]

Why are South Africans blocked from your website

[@MrPostFrame]

I didn’t know they were?

[@phillipfalconer1270]

@@MrPostFrame When I try to log onto the website I get this message "Access from your Country was disabled by the administrator"

[@MrPostFrame]

Phillip Falconer we are looking into it. We just recently got some help with our website so I will ask and get back to you.

[@chrisdowning7063]

You need to get an engineer to inspect all dat