Ancient Cham Food and Old Mysteries in Bangkok’s Silk Weaving Village

Following a tip about a food festival once held in a unique neighborhood in Bangkok, we set out to explore Baan Krua and unravel the stories of the Champa Kingdom and the ethnic Cham people who live within its alleys. Following the hints about the festival, the story brought us from the local mosque, to neighborhood homes, to a dish we'd never tried before; and in between, uncovering the epic rise and fall of one of the most fascinating places we've ever explored.
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0:00 - Introduction
1:01 - The Food Festival
2:40 - Champa
5:18 - Into Baan Krua
7:17 - The Mosque
11:29 - Niphon Manuthas
14:28 - Silk
18:51 - The Masters
20:45 - The Start of Baan Krua Silk
22:15 - Jim Thompson
25:45 - Golden Age
30:23 - The Rest of the Story
35:01 - The Last Ones Left
37:34 - Food Festival
40:40 - The Kitchen
43:26 - Conclusion
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Video Credits:
• Jim Thompson House 🇹🇭 ...
• Jim Thompson’s Silk Ho...
• Jim Thompson House Ban...
• The History of Southea...
• Silk Story
• How silkworms make silk
• Silkworms Spin Cocoons...
• How Silk is Made
• How Silk is Made
• BEN HUR'S SURPRISE RET...
• Tanah Rata Cameron H...
• Jim Thompson's staged ...
• The Strange Disappeara...
• New documentary invest...
• 3in1 Experience, right...

[@OTRontheroad]

A couple notes then location pins: First, the neighborhood itself doesn't have any restaurants (yet), but to find out about upcoming food-related events, the best resource appears to be their FB page: facebook.com/BankruaOfficial?mibextid=LQQJ4d Second, if you're in Vietnam, in recent years there's been an effort to preserve Cham heritage, and from the best I can tell, a couple potential destinations would be the area around Phan Rang- referenced in this video as the last Champa holdout that was overrun in 1832- and in Hoi An, with a place called Champa Amaravati serving ancient Cham cuisine (this is just from internet searching, I haven't been there and cannot personally confirm). Here are the pins, such as they were from this video: 1) The Yami Ul-Kairiya Mosque: maps.app.goo.gl/M6T99cXFK1MnVvbc9 (would suggest obviously entering the Mosque with permission and with proper attire; best is to ask on the outside to speak with Mr. Jaripan or Khun Tim) 2) Niphon's house: maps.app.goo.gl/b295uhwdKqkvyojw5 (it's opening hours are basically "whenever he's there" but if you ask around, someone will get him and he's happy to have visitors. Also as a note, we did our interview in Thai as that's the easiest language for him to tell his story, but he is also reasonably fluent in both English and German, so it's easy to stop through without much help).

[@DavidKearns4]

For viewers in the US, it is possible to try Cham cuisine in the greater Seattle area if you look hard enough. Try starting at Salima Specialties. There were a few more when I last visited years ago, but Covid wasn't kind.

[@OTRontheroad]

Unfortunately looking at that restaurant's menu, that's not the food of the Champa Kingdom, it's food from the Cham diaspora, which basically means modern Malaysian and Vietnamese Halal food. But it's not the same thing as preserving ancient recipes- still, it looks like a legit great place for what it is. On a different topic, it's really interesting how much "Champa" is used as a generic name for Asian restaurants these days; it made searching for ancient Cham foods borderline impossible. It's bizarre how many overseas Thai or Vietnamese or any kind of restaurants are called "Champa ____"...with no connection to the actual Cham kingdom. I think my favorite is the one I found in Hendersonville, NC, where I had some family when I was growing up. It's called Champa, and it serves....Thai food, sushi (!), and American-Chinese.

[@ttanmana5905]

@@OTRontheroad”Champa” or “ดอกจำปา” is also a popular/common Thai name for a variant of magnolia that’s local to Southeast Asia countries. Most Thais, especially younger generations, would associate the word “Champa” as magnolia flower rather than an ethnic group. Thais are fond of flower names and its meaning. That’s why you’d commonly see Thai restaurants overseas incorporate flower name into its establishment ie. Champa, Thai Jasmine/Mali, Chaba, Thai Lotus, Thai Orchids etc.

[@monketstyling]

Also off the coast of Hoi An in Vietnam is Cham island.

[@planeboi906]

"This is Bangkok, there are food festivals every 20 minutes" I really liked that😂

[@KilanEatsandDrinks]

What a gem you've found! As an Indonesian, I learned about Champa in history classes at school, how there were intermarriages with our Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms, and how a Cham princess brought Islam to the court of Majapahit. I have been to Cham temples in Vietnam and while ancient monuments are important, I think having such a living and breathing community completes the picture. It's mind blowing how the people of such an influential empire are now scattered all over Southeast Asia and there's a chance they could slowly be forgotten if everything stays as it is. These are important stories, thank you for telling them!

[@cudanmang_theog]

These temples were bombed or looted by the white men because the Champas were black!

[@channelinikhususbuatliator81]

Mantap bre. Pernah ke candi2nya Champa langsung..

[@sohardtogetID]

You need to be appointed a Minister of Thai History and Culture. You are more knowledgeable than 99% of Thai history teachers.

[@SuperPromethee]

as a professional historian, just want to say...your reseacrh and perspective are so great!

[@OTRontheroad]

Well, from my side, I appreciate the work of professional historians like you so much. 90% of what I'm doing is just organizing and contextualizing the really hard work that people like you do.

[@nurhalizamohamath8610]

My family is Cham from Vietnam, specifically the village of Chau Doc. Thank you for showcasing our ancient history. In the eyes of the elders of Baan Krua I know they are my kin, the people of Champa 🤍🌍

[@pimolwan]

Thank you so much for this video, I happened upon Baan Krua Nua about 8 or 9 years ago while exploring the city. I was astounded to find this tiny community of weavers smack dab in the middle of the city. They are barely mentioned during the tours of the Jim Thompson House Museum, so I would also mention to visitors to go check it out after, just a quick stroll over the bridge straddling the khlong. I was invited into one of the shops there by Loong Oud (he was quite old so I'm not sure that he's still around.) He showed me pictures taken with Jim Thomson and explained a bit about their history. They showed me the loops of silk drying in the loft area, as well as one or two people working on looms. I was a bit sad when I left because I wasn't really sure if this community would survive, especially after that big fire they had a few years ago. I'm very happy to learn that they are still fighting to keep the community alive. I hope the city does more for them, there's so much rich history!

[@OTRontheroad]

Yeah usually when I find an idea for a story like this, I'll take some time to develop it and plan out the visuals of the shoot/get the storyline right, do some background research, etc., and then film. But in this case it felt like there was some urgency to get this done, so we went from planning to filming in the same week (which literally never happens). But yeah obviously my fear was the same as yours when you visited. Thankfully after actually visiting and filming, I'm more optimistic. We also cut a quote from the end of the video, but Niphon did tell us that his daughter plans to take over from him when he can no longer weave, so the hope is the silk weaving will survive there for at least one more generation. And maybe that'll buy some time for it to get "discovered" again

[@thaiav8r]

I am a Thai watching this from Japan. This episode making me appreciate the diversity of Thai community. I had a friend who was the resident of Baan Kru’s who passed away recently. Thank you for all your insightful episodes.

[@visions30]

You just narrated to us one of the most amazing historical story that we wouldn't have known if not for this video! Truly amazing and I hope you document all these together so they will never be lost in time! Thank you for sharing!

[@witch2019]

The on-the-ground reporting of OTR never ceases to amaze me. It'd be easier just to do research, but I love that you go to the actual neighborhoods and flesh out the real story with actual first-hand accounts.

[@ellenspn]

Amazing. I'm a weaver and watching them work is priceless to me.

[@Tinil0]

Man, Thomson is a really interesting figure. You usually expect the worst when you hear "Rich white dude migrates to southeast asia to start a business" but it sounds like he was as good to people as a business owner can be and they really did like him. He returned most of the money generated back into the community, and provided jobs that paid much better than anything else. It also wasn't mentioned here I don't think, but one big thing was instead of building a factory and forcing all his workers to work there, he was happy with silk weavers staying in their own home meaning they could still be a homemaker at the same time. A rare case of someone born into a life of luxury who seemed to have actual empathy and love for the land he adopted.

[@austinhornbeck5060]

My history professor was a specialist in the Champa people, he also told us the story of Jim Thomson. Loved this video took me back to college.

[@sts0868]

What a wonderful story! I'll definitely visit Baan Krua the next time I'm in Bangkok. Thanks for the excellent work!

[@TheTanest]

Thank you for such a good content. As a Thai, I am really amazed by how much time you put into tell a story of the food and history of another country that is not your. Thank you so much.

[@iskandartaib]

In Malaysia we know the Muslims in Cambodia as the Cham (or Kampung Cham). I was in the US when refugees from the Khmer Rouge started to arrive, there was a Muslim family that we hosted in the mosque for a while. Interestingly, we found that religious instruction was carried out in Malay (which they called "Jawi") - many years later I found out the same is true in Southern Thailand. There are a lot of native Malay speakers in Southern Thailand, of course, but religious instruction is specifically based on materials brought over from Malaysia and Indonesia.

[@zulrasdibakar662]

The Cham Malay Muslim people actually from the Champa Muslim Malay kindom in central Vietnam but they lost their kingdom to Vietnamese people

[@neztoro24]

This one was an edge-of-the-seat type episode. The OTR crew really have a talent for weaving a good story together.

[@TheMoen22]

I recently found your channel and I absolutely love your food documentaries! I love the length and the manner in which you present information as a historical and cultural story. Please keep up the good work, seeing this documentary go up made my day!

[@cameronoconnor5364]

i just want to compliment OTR. You guys/gals are brilliant! great work, very interesting. I love it.

[@macdmacd7896]

this is the best doco of 2024. it got ancient civilization baking bread in SEA, and CIA james bond millionaire got unalive, and Ben Hur, and global fashion industry since Rome till the 70s, and silk weaver town history, and exotic foods... this shd be a movie abt an immortal from Rome to modern Thai.

[@rsvpurgt]

Super interesting episode. Having visited the Jim Thompson museum, I knew a little bit about his history. I didn't know the beginning of his empire was just across the canal. I'm surprised the Jim Thompson story has not been told more in film.

[@anthonyanderson9326]

Thairish Times just did an interview about him a couple weeks ago..Definitely insightful

[@channelinikhususbuatliator81]

Came looking for Cham food, stay for Jim Thompson, silk industry, culture revival, and Cham food in the end. Salam from East Java, Indonesia.

[@murataburanasiri6716]

I’m Thai but I learn so much from your channel. Keep up the good work. Baan Krua and the community along the river (Klong) were almost wiped out due to an inner express way project years ago.

[@supreeyakritsaneephaiboon2304]

Very good piece of history(many layered)! Thanx, again, OTR, for another gem! Cheers!

[@martyhandley4456]

Almost 20 ears ago.....my family all met in KL, and drove to the Cameron Highlands for a week, then to KL and took a train to Bangkok. A magical two weeks where we spent our days going on tours, eating wonderful foods and experiencing nightlife in the streets. We were able to see this area where this episode focuses on and seeing the beautiful wares produced in it. It is a part of our trip that I cherish the most......thank you OTR for diving so deep into the history of these people and their plight . You taught me so much more about the areas inhabitants, their work and how it ties in to history. I can’t wait for the upcoming notification of your next educational and entertaining episode. Y’all ROCK!

[@OTRontheroad]

thanks as always Marty. Amazing you got to visit here!

[@dondobbs9302]

More top notch (and fun!) work from OTR! I love how some shows are about a food or dish that takes you-all to find places and meet folk and other shows are about going to places, meeting people then, some dishes are found. I'm suprised others didn't pick up the baton and run with it after Jim Thomson's dissapearance. I would think others would grab a chance to keep that Silk insustry going(?)

[@hunkhk]

Really incredible level of detail and research gone into this, I'm so impressed. So wonderful to see how welcoming and proud of their heritage the people from the BaanKrua community are as well, that was the icing on the cake. Thanks so much for a brilliant episode really top notch

[@MissMulder]

Oh wow this was a magical experience, the rich history the beautiful people and the delicious looking food, thank you so much for all your hard work, I’ve been saving for a trip to Thailand and Vietnam and this place has been added to my future visit. Cheers 🎉

[@theent01]

this was such a great video. You are exactly the right channel to do this. I was just at the Jim Thompson house and this video had way more information and was way more interesting. Well done!

[@EarthCamper]

What a great history n video....every time I watch ur video...makes me emotional how humanity has come thru the times....

[@Adrian_of_Arcane_Lore]

This is the kind of youtube video that deserves millions of views, absolutely amazing stuff.

[@noreenneu837]

What a great video. I am a fibre artist and am always interested in everything textile. I have been to the Jim Thompson House many times. This story of Baan Krua is fascinating. Thanks

[@jimsummers9351]

What a well-produced video! I visited the Jim Thompson house in 1990 and 1991 while working as an architect in Asia. I was not aware that the Thai silk was being made right across the klong from the house.

[@Niksg9424]

Came out right as I'm making some stir fry for breakfast after work for the wife and I. OTR always delivers Edit: Curry noodle with tofu done, wife and I are loving the video. The level of expertise that every person that was interviewed has makes this feel like a PBS special in the best way. The story of Jim Thompson is incredible too, the way the community remembers him so fondly is really sweet. Yet another banger from the crew Edit 2: bro what is this plot twist, this dude is based as fuck

[@OTRontheroad]

lol, fantastic running commentary

[@donaldgrove2249]

I always love your vids. In some ways, this is my favorite so far, which is odd because the food doesn't arrive until near the end. But the people you interview are extremely interesting, and tell their stories very engagingly. Nice job!

[@Lily-zx8en]

What a fascinating story! Thank you for this. I hope I get to visit the museum and maybe walk through the area when we’re in Bangkok.

[@awibs57]

This is beyond cool. I love the depth into which you went researching the history of these people, interviewing the old master silk weaver and the imam and all. The respect and interest you have really shows and it's delightful to see them warm up to you as a result. This is what the world needs more of.

[@schizotypeseraph]

Always worth the wait! Another awesome episode.

[@thavibu]

Very interesting, and excellent production!

[@danialroslan1531]

every episode is like a mini-docu. love you effort in making such great videos!

[@G.L.McCarthy-vr1oe]

Well done, love learning about cultures I'll never get to see first hand! Many thanks!💜

[@mariettathornton5924]

Wowww! Love the historical aspect of this awesome video! Thanks for sharing 😊

[@natpetpaisit3658]

Seriously good episode! Best best so far!

[@nigeljohn65]

This is fascinating. I hadn't heard of the Cham community before, and the connection to Jim Thompson adds extra spice. I find it quite hard to follow the Thai of the Baan Krua residents, though.

[@chatchaweewong1071]

Wow, This is amazing... Thanks for sharing guys!

[@dreweduk]

what a fabulous episode! thank you

[@tylerharry6319]

I'll be in Bangkok next week for the first time. Cant wait to check out all the tasty food, thanks for all the recommendations OTR.

[@abuwarith1]

im never disappointed by this channel! great job guys!

[@evasenechal8735]

Your channel is a gem! So interesting! So good!

[@ariannammason]

👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋 well done sir. This is story that so many can now hear that would have no occasion to. Perhaps the most significant aspect is how this story is being told by this newly discovered connection to a “foreigner”, as it appears they see you first as a friend. A lesson for us all.

[@Shokamoka]

I came for the food Stayed for the silk

[@mizalk]

Well done on this episode! I really enjoyed it

[@kskhew3377]

Great episode!

[@anthonyanderson9326]

Absolutely excellent episode.

[@candlevictoria7742]

Amazing work! Great storytelling, and wonderful history lesson. 🙏🏼

[@NY-hB9teu6ue7]

Thank you for the wonderful documentary. It’s a shame that Ban Krua doesn’t have any restaurants yet. I really want to try that curry. I think even Thai people rarely know about the existence of Cham people in Bangkok, so thank you again for this video.

[@emas5306]

Fantastisch story. Thank you!

[@warabandhasree1069]

Thanks for this docu! ❤ I'll sure visit them!

[@I2lovepizza]

You should do another video on the Champa people and try do find a few anceint recipes as well to try and save them from being lost to time.

[@GregorBrown]

What a great, well-made video, and so insightful! It teaches us so much about the mysterious story of Jim Thompson.

[@chamaan2479]

Great research and production! Definitely on the list of places to visit!

[@user-kb2fv7wk7f]

Wow, wasn’t expecting all the surprises! What an intriguing people and their history. Super script you’ll wrote, unfolding like a murder mystery! Kind of like Jim Thompson’s own life. Thank you for abandoning your food theme to discover the greater story.

[@naparatstutzman9729]

Excellent content. Through this video I can feel and see the pride, love and kindness of the Cham people.

[@jjamdekkers]

Great video...again! Been to the neighbourhood years ago, it has a very special atmosphere in busy Bangkok.

[@eugeniogonzalez5651]

Congratulations Adam on your rediscovery and more interesting details of Thai Silk ! b

[@beammeupscotty1955]

Awesome again!

[@annon231]

I watch a tremendous amount of KZbin across many genres. My definite highlight is to view your latest offering. It gives me great pleasure and I thank you and your team for an enjoyable and educative watch. Thank you!

[@tonybrain5937]

👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 Thank you for another interesting and informative documentary 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@twinflowerfioretta]

You are always great and amazing OTR !✌👍 i`m addicted to your brilliant historical food explorations, the work behind them is for sure enormous ! Thank you very much for it, it is a delicious pleasure ! 🙏😍

[@kornkarnbhamarapravati7512]

Khak Farang Jeen Jam The old Thai would say India/persian Caucasian Chinese Jam I have not known that Jam is an ethnic group. Thank you OTR.

[@danalynbegin6991]

Awesome video

[@TealCheetah]

I loved the part about silk!

[@saigongriffin]

Great episode about the Cham's. Finally their story has a chance to be known to a wider audience than academics. Many years ago, and still today, I used to love walking around the small alleys of their neighborhood and discover old weavers. Although I didn't visit Niphon's house, I did visit another one years back and saw a lot of history including the old weavers themselves. I recently tried to find it but couldn't, the new generation may have moved on. And my dad knew Jim becuase we also lived in Bangkok during the 60's...

[@sorekara313]

46 very valuable and insightful minutes. I didn't skip a single second or a single word. The documentary is amazingly comprehensive. It beautifully depicts the harmonious life in Bangkok over time. Can't wait to watch more of your videos! btw could you confirm which mosque the Imam and Khun Tim are at? From this video and Google Maps, there are two mosques close to each other in that area: Jamiul Khairiyah Mosque and Darul Falah Mosque. thank you!

[@OTRontheroad]

yeah it's the Jamiul Khairiyah Mosque (I believe that's the Google Maps spelling)- link is pinned in the first comment.

[@mmhuq3]

Thank you

[@ginettevandenkerckhove6593]

So mash information thanks 🙏

[@dammeedee]

สนุกมากค่ะ มารู้ประวัติศาสตร์ไทยมากขึ้นไปอีกเพราะรายการนี้แหละ

[@war0on]

Keep up the good work 👍🏼

[@franssnel9069]

Please also make a vid about the role of nam prik in Thai quisine 🙂!!

[@carverbob54]

Wow! Better and better! We had a ten year run doing volunteer housebuilding in Cambodia, and Cham 'silk fairs' were a big part of how we gave exposure to the great silk made there. Didn't know about the Krungthep side of the story. Keep up the great work team! Keep running Daria (inside joke) cheers - Bob

[@cyrilkatatak2267]

Excellent video. Two thumbs up. It's not so obvious to search for content like this when you don't know that you're looking for it--doesn't fit a specific category. Well done. Tks

[@eswillie]

Might be your best yet. I knew all the history and the Jim Thompson story, but now I want to try their dishes and maybe find my self a silk pakama to replace the one I had that's been lost over the years.

[@upsiranukulkit2731]

Thanks for this deep investigation. It all make sense now. 😅

[@SteveSmith-zz4ih]

What a wonderful story, for no reason i got emotional watching this, any-rate Khop Khun Krap for this excellent history lesson.

[@leeiseverywhere]

If you haven't been there, there's one fascinating market called Sang-Ka-See Flea Market - probably the biggest flea market that I've ever witnessed (except the Loy Krathong in CMX where the whole city basically turns into a giant market) It's a flea market (in BKK of course), almost everything is sold as well as food (wet market) but surprisingly, it's so neat and clean. I guess it's just generally Thai thing lol The best time to go is Sunday night from 4pm - closing starts around 8pm. Parking is available but super crowd. What fascinated me the most was that I couldn't managed to find toilets in that giant maze lol I only assumed that OTR haven't been to this market, simply because there's no contents with the market; maybe you've already been there, but it seemed superb local (as the location lol) and I was the only forigner there. I went there last night and am definitely returning on coming Sunday night.

[@woolfel]

wow, what a fantastic story. I had no idea Cham silk played such a huge role in early US cinema.

[@foodtaliban]

As a crescendo to the episode I was waiting for you to solve the Jim Thompson mystery 🕵️‍♀️

[@OTRontheroad]

Lol wouldn’t that have been something? Don’t forget at the end of the day, I’m a cook, get too far beyond stuff like soups and stir fries and we’re a bit past my pay grade

[@foodtaliban]

@@OTRontheroad 😅

[@eugenenathan6518]

@@OTRontheroad 🤣

[@raens9256]

I have video from my trip to Thailand, taken in the courtyard of the Jim Thompson House, capturing what I assume is a call to prayer. I had so many thoughts and feelings wrapped up around that moment. Now I'm wondering if it originated from this mosque.

[@aaronsakulich4889]

I watch all of your videos, I love the mix of food and history. May i make one suggestion? When you put "subtitles on screen" in the subtitles, at least for me, the box saying that appears overtop the actual subtitles on the screen. I know this is very minor but it's a pain turning them on and off every couple of minutes!

[@OTRontheroad]

yeah if anyone has any suggestions how to do that, I'm all ears. The issue is when I don't use a placeholder like that, the AI moves on to the next part of the script and instead puts another line up early- and if I simply replicate the subtitles that are already on screen, the AI doesn't recognize how it's supposed to match the Thai and it ends up an even bigger mess. I'm sure there's a way, I'm just not familiar with what that way is.

[@osnisida]

youtubes number 1 anthropologist frfr

[@cudanmang_theog]

Champa people invented champa rice which helped china, korea, japan, vietnam growth

[@Kwthardevyth]

Respected sir, the way you bring out the context of the history is fascinating more interesting sir, could you do the historical research upon the Axom Kingdom of Assam a sino-thai ancient kingdom of Thai descent ( Tai communities) that used to rule over today's northeastern part of India (stretching from Brahmaputra delta & Namsai valley of Arunachal Pradesh, India) till today the ancestors of Thai descent reside in Namsai district of Arunachal Pradesh & Jorhat, Dibrugarh of Assam, India

[@pansawachsuwan320]

Ben Hur ชอบหนังเรื่องนี้ ไม่เคยรู้มาก่อนว่าผ้ามาจากบ้านครัว ฉากแข่งรถม้าตรึงใจมาก

[@gilf24]

😊😊😊❤

[@tktyga77]

I guess one could say that yet another commonality between Austronesians & Vikings become more apparent in the form of influences on SE Asia (mainland & maritime) as well as the trade routes. With those in mind, I think it's time for at least a few works about the Austronesians in the vein of shows like Vikings, probably on streaming services & not just Netflix either (with nesian voices & faces in them, ofc)

[@Jumpoable]

Before he introduced his Muslim Arabic name, the Imam said his name is Pitsanu, basically the Thai form of Vishnu, the Hindu deity of providence that is my profile pic. But he's ethnically/ culturally Cham & living in Bangkok across the canal by Jim Thompson House .

[@bijou2]

What was the classical piece played at the beginning of Part 2 (Silk)?

[@OTRontheroad]

It's Mozart's Piano Concerto No. 21 in C Maj, this version by a group (person?) called Moments

[@DohuuVi]

Cham military men faithfully served many Indochinese states. Many generals in the former Cambodian Royal Army were ethinic Chams. The most trusted Cham soldiers guarded the South Vietnamese presidential palace. They fired on at Pham Phu Quoc's plane on the first pass and damaged it enough for the South Vietnamese Navy to finish it off in the 1962 coup d'état against the Diem government.

[@KyoushaPumpItUp]

I wonder what really happened to Jim Thompson. How did he even disappear while on a trip in Malaysia?

[@yujilee112]

Vietnamese and Cambodia kingdoms in the past are so brutal to minorities. cham people was important part in world history but now reduced to stateless people 😔

[@OTRontheroad]

Go back far enough and nobody’s hands are clean

[@zulrasdibakar662]

Yup many Cham Malay Muslim people migrated to East Coast of Malay peninsular, they open the restaurant selling the famous soup noodles call mee Champa & selling the Champa sausages at night market