FineScale Modeler Scale Model Basics: Repair scratches in clear plastic parts

[@bobrivett7645]

Way to go Tim. Years ago I was building a 1/72 scale aircraft, from Hasegawa I believe, not sure what kit. Anyway it had a seam line length ways through the canopy. In one of my old FSM magazines was a step by step guide, exactly how you repaired this windshield, on how to sand and polish out that seam line. And it worked perfectly. Thank you FSM for all the thousands of tips from readers, contributors and staff for all the help you've provided me over all these years.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thanks for watching, Bob, and thank you for the kudos!

[@johnhopper6352]

It's simple. Love the videos! Thanks for making them.

[@paulsawyer2326]

An excellent video tip for removing scratches. Thank you FSM, this will be a live saver and headache-less tip for me. Saved this to my bookmark for future reference. Thank you!

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

We're really glad you found it helpful!

[@joeshmoe9978]

Very usefull and presented in a far better way than other youtube channels that don't go into exactly what grit numbers to use. I was avoiding kits lite F-16s and Harriers, but this video will help.

[@martinbarr9402]

Thanks Tim. Really nice video.

[@lesthiele4921]

Hi Tim, that was great lesson, it has given me a lot more confidence to do my F-16 build and do the mold line that goes right the center of the canopy, bext regards from Australia, Les

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Hi Les, I'm glad you found the video helpful. If you happen to have a spare clear part lying around--a windshield or the like--scratch it. Just do it. Doesn't have to be major damage, but enough so you can see it. Then run through the steps presented to remove the scratch. That way you've done it on a part that you don't need to use. Once you've done it, you'll know what you're looking for and will have practical experience before using your skills on a part you plan to use on your project. Thanks for watching, and good luck with the F-16! -TK

[@spinynorman887]

Good video! Just a couple of things. First, since you covered the causes of scratches in the intro, there's no need to repeat yourself a minute later. Second, after the initial sanding, I think another good way to see if the scratch is gone would be to look at it from the opposite side. Because if it's still there, it's UNDER the sanding marks. And maybe looking from the opposite side might make it easier to see if the original scratch is gone. Finally a question about the P-51 cutting pad you have on the work table: What scale is the drawing?

[@beelikemizu604]

Great video & clear instructions… thank you 🙏

[@PlasticImaginationWorkshop]

Great tutorial! This will be very helpful to a lot of folks. Have a great weekend. -David

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thanks, David! Have a great weekend!

[@bluedragontoybash2463]

Thank you. So that is what the set are for. I just bought it second hand thinking I got lot of cheap sanding paper for woodworking.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Glad we could help!

[@mickyd6150]

Hi Tim, really imprest, just off to the spares box to find a part to scratch and give it a go. Thanks Mick uk

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

That's the best way to get over the hesitation--find a part that has a scratch in it and try it out. Thanks for watching!

[@paulgertsch7105]

Thanks for sharing

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Our pleasure!

[@Chilly_Billy]

I had to rework the canopy of my Italeri F-100D. For some reason, the manufacturer added a brace that wasn't in the real deal. So I masked-off either side and started with a wet 120 grit sanding stick. Worked my way up to wet 8000 grit, dunked it in Gauzy Agent and violà! You'd never know anything was there. It took about 20 minutes.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Success!

[@bp8339]

I commented about on the very thing to get a good finish without polish. I didn't get down to your comment but god to know it's not just me that has had success with gauzy and pledge.

[@discordian23]

Good video. I use micromesh pads for doing a CA glue finish on pens I make. But I use them wet since the lathe turns a lot faster. They’re inexpensive, 9 pads from 1500 to 12000 for less than $20.

[@randytaylor1258]

Awesome!

[@PiperStart]

Great stuff, well explained.😊

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thanks, Piper! We're glad you found it helpful!

[@outfield1988]

Love that TBD my favorite plane.

[@ChadTruss]

Excellent info. I am about to take some thin clear plastic and make some windows for a project that I hope to have at NNL Milwaukee.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thanks, Chad! That sounds interesting.

[@johnbeto7936]

Great video, Tim; this, and 5 mistakes to avoid when working with clear parts, too. I heard one can repair/sand clear parts, didn't know of a good technique until now. Great soundtrack during the liquid polishing sequence, too. Model, & Rock On!

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Glad to have been a help! And thanks so much for watching.

[@chesterhires7859]

Excellent tip

[@robertlemaster156]

Does liquid polishing work on 3d printed parts?

[@rosemaryr.long-morgan9704]

Thanks for sharing this how to. I'm sure when I open some of the kits that have loose parts, this will come in handy. /Rosemary

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thank you for watching and commenting, Rosemary!

[@roberttaylor9259]

How would you properly color plastic parts. I know some people dye them in other fields.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Do you mean tinting clear plastic parts and retaining transparency? I typically use Tamiya clear paint in the color I need. For instance: www.tamiyausa.com/shop/acrylic-paint-23ml/acrylic-x-27-clear-red/ -TK

[@roberttaylor9259]

@@FineScaleModelermagazineyes. I know a lot of people paint them with transparent paint but I've heard of also dying plastics with something like RIT dye. I didn't know if there was an advantage or even common practice within the model world. I know in larger plastic builds it tends to be used a lot.

[@chriswhite9086]

Great video! Where can I get the t-shirt the host is wearing?

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thanks, Chris. Unfortunately, the store where I purchased it is no longer operating. -TK

[@bp8339]

Instead of polishing at the final stage, have you tried a few dips in Pledge/finish or Gauzy? It seems to work for me instead of polishing with a liquid.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

We have not, although we've heard the same. If your process is working for you, no need to fix it.

[@chriscraddock8327]

Ok, I subscribed for the magazine and digital. Signed up with zinio… how do I get access to the content? I can look it up, but it only gives the option of subscribing, or buying an issue.

[@MatterusOD]

Go to "Shop" then "Digital Downloads" go to an FSM issue and click. Then "click here to log in and access your DLC" When you do there will be a PDF there if your logged in.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Hi Chris: Thank you for subscribing to FSM! Here's a link for Zinio Support that should help with you getting to your magazine issue. And a print issue should be on it's way, too. support.zinio.com/hc/en-us/articles/115011803547-How-to-Read-Download-Publications#:~:text=The%20magazine%20will%20open%20while,once%20it%20is%20fully%20downloaded.&text=Tap%20on%20the%203%20dots,Archive%20%3E%20archive%20the%20magazine

[@chriscraddock8327]

Thanks, but neither of those suggestions worked. I tried the chrome version and the iPad version. I can log in to Zinnio just fine (using the same email I used for FSM) and I can find FSM on the site, but the ONLY options it gives me are to buy the subscription again, or buy an issue. Grrrrrrrr! I contacted their help desk. Maybe they will be able to sort it out.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Hi Chris, I pushed your question to our customer service and Megan said she was able to help you out. Sorry for the hiccup, and, again, thank you for subscribing to FineScale Modeler magazine!

[@joeod2862]

I use the same process in preparing a model car before paint but take it up to 18000. The for buffing the Novus I use 100% cotton flannel which I got from Joann's Fabric. Might be a bit anal but in a tee shirt there is a good possibility of rayon or nylon or similar in the fabric which will lead to, you gessed it, scratches. But what you presented is good information to have out there.

[@Shinobubu]

I would try to fill in that gouge with a cheap CD Repair kit filler. and then sand it :D

[@robertjensen1438]

Just a comment for the algorithm

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Our dude!