Scale Model Basics: Painting photo-etched metal parts

Welcome to FineScale Modeler magazine's Scale Model Basics: Painting photo-etched metal parts! FSM editors Tim and Aaron team up to show how different types of paint interact with photo-etched metal parts, both before and after prepping it.
00:15 How is photo-etched metal different from other model parts?
00:42 Hand-brushing acrylic paint onto bare PE part
02:36 Airbrushing enamel paint onto bare PE part
03:37 Airbrushing lacquer paint onto bare PE part
04:19 What would airbrushed acrylic paint look like on a bare PE part?
04:47 Summary of what each paint looked like on the bare PE parts
05:17 Which one worked the best, and why?
05:35 FSM-approved ways to prepare PE metal
07:46 Other ways modelers prepare PE parts
Disclaimer: Proceed with caution and proper safety measures when using chemicals and acids
08:21 Closing
Watch more Scale Model Basics at FineScale.com/V...

[@jerryvolpini7987]

Nice and simple, thanks! For me, primer is mandatory when brush painting. People might argue about how well it improves adhesion but what it does do is break the surface tension between the plastic and paint, drawing the paint onto the surface. This results in smoother coverage that requires less coats to get the finish you're after. This saves time and retains a better overall level of detail 👍

[@corkcamden9878]

Etch primer also gives the paint a slightly toothed surface to adhere. I use primer whenever it is feasible.

[@domitiusseverus1]

Really would have like to see you use one of the specialist metal primers you had on the desk as another point of comparison

[@modelbehavior3252]

In my experience in painting brass it’s important to wipe the metal with acetone and use a self etching primer before painting. If you skip those you run the risk of the paint lifting later on. As a disclaimer, I make my own photoetch from half-hard brass and create 1/12th scale automotive racing chassis.

[@michaelcooke2559]

Nice tips. Thanks for sharing.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thanks for watching!

[@GrubbyGrupper]

I tries several years ago the vinegar technique it did work well for me paint went right on with no issues. Thanks for your methods I’ll try them out

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Good to know! It's something that we've never given a try, though we've heard about it. We'll give it a go and report on it on our website. Thanks for watching!

[@gatesbisson5102]

Great video, many thanks for the fundamentals, see you on the 26 March in Hamilton's Heritage Con15. safe travel

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thanks for watching! We can't wait to be at the show.

[@mitzyismad]

Hi Guys, I have been stuffing up paintwork on E.P. for some time now. Tried the sandpaper and the 'Uuchi' E.P. etcher and mediocre results at best. Just tried starting off with light sanding of parts on the E.P. sprue and 'Tamiya Primer' on completed parts. Fantastic. Works a charm. Thank you.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Hi Dana! We're glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching!

[@paulbrooker5203]

I tend to use a fiberglass pen before I prim

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Paul, that's an interesting tip. Thank you!

[@davidorr6627]

Love that SMS paint. I use it all the time and it is fantastic. They also make an etching primer which would work nicely on the photo-etched parts.

[@BigFred1925]

Great tip. Thanks

[@bushranger900]

Makes total sense to me, I just don't get why others give a thumbs down without explanation are they just bitter modelers?

[@scaleartsg]

i used brush paint gunze's metal primer onto the photo etch first before airbrushing

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

That can work. The nice thing about Tamiya spray primer is that it's meant for both plastic and metal.

[@grantrichards4950]

Just what I was looking for. Thanks!

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

We're happy to help!

[@silenttraveler7192]

Awesomness

[@sunguar]

Now, for the tough Photo Etch question: Paint, then bend or bend then paint. Great video.

[@corkcamden9878]

Should be obvious.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Bend, then paint.

[@gsr4535]

Good tip! 👍

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Glad it was helpful!

[@chrisb1969]

I use a 2 part resin and metal etch primer by Zero paints

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Interesting! We'll have to give that a look.

[@deelee9712]

Brilliant video. Thank you.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thank you for watching!

[@ericchristopher1687]

It's always been recommended to wash plastic parts on the sprue before building a model to remove mold release or other chemicals - are there no chemicals on photo-etch parts that need washing and drying to remove before gluing or painting them? Thanks for the video.

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Not really, since a final rinse is part of the process in making the photo-etched metal parts.

[@ericchristopher1687]

Thank you.

[@dirttrackin38mb]

So I've been away from modeling for quite some time and I'm new to the whole photo etch thing. I've been watching videos of people builds and I see they are installing part unpainted and then showing them later painted. Is there a process I'm missing here or are they removing the parts painting and reinstalling. Example railings on a ship

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

You can install PE parts unpainted and then prime them when you prime the rest of the model before applying paint.

[@robertjensen1438]

Just a comment for the algorithm

[@sidnzrael2433]

Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is not a metal primer. An etch primer (Tamiya Clear Etch) has even better adhesion qualities. Cleaning metal surface first by fine sanding is advisable in the case of brass as it removes any tarnish, then washing, drying before paint. 0000 Fine Wire Wool (no soap) works well as it gets into all the fine detail areas. 1500 or 2000 wet & dry is great for flat surfaces. Etch, Base Prime, Colour...

[@FineScaleModelermagazine]

Thanks for the Clear Etch tip. We'll take a look at it. We're also interested to see what it does to plastic.

[@thegoodearth7]

0000 steel wool has oil present that needs to first be removed or it contaminates the metal surface you are painting. This is particularly manifest when say, bluing a metal part. Soak the steel wool first in acetone, exercising all common-sense safety practices, of course, allow it to dry, and you are good to go.