Fingerboard Training - 3 Common Mistakes for Climbers

[@Xeno87]

Can we please talk about how Tom Randall looks like an 1800's english Lord in the royal navy, just without a mustache and the uniform?

[@tristanmayfield4851]

Can we please get Tom to wear said uniform and grow a mustache from now on?

[@gimpdoctor8362]

how does this make sense

[@davidschneider6640]

@@gimpdoctor8362 you mean how do we make that happen. there, fixed it for you.

[@LatticeTraining]

Tristan Mayfield ha! No chance! 😁

[@Xeno87]

@@LatticeTraining Don't worry, sideburns are acceptable too

[@strengthmechanics]

Hi guys, I just want to say that I really enjoy your content and how you bring in fundamental S&C concepts into climbing.

[@mic5418]

When is the right time to train closed crimps? And how long should that period be?

[@eric.jerome]

What's wrong with rolling in during max hangs? 3:20sec thanks

[@Sverreification]

Do you have actual evidence that an open hand position is more straining on soft tissue than crimps?

[@mcdick]

That also kinda sounded weird. We've got a small (~20 guys and gals), but rather experienced cave with average climber doing bouldering&sport 8a (top guys doing 8b+ boulder and 8c sport)-> with more than 15 years of experice as average. And the concensus is that the open hand is much less accident prone. We might be wrong, but would really like to hear something to back this up. Personally I don't want to full crimp at all, and open crimp when absolutely necessary. I've got some arthiritis and my finger joints really don't like crimping.

[@emilwrisberg]

I have had two pulley injuries while using a crimp grip and none while using an open handed drag. Pro climber Dave MacLeod had a string of pulley injuries from relying on crimps as a younger climber, whereas he avoided pulley injuries after getting stronger in the open hand positions.

[@Cacovangor]

The rationale is lack of engagement of muscle to protect connective tissues and smaller muscle groups during training. This is not about the pulleys to my knowledge, which a more open position should load less.

[@franz1261]

Tom specifically mentiones that in steeper terrain open hand is weaker/less reliable and focus should therefore lie on crimp training. But I doubt that this is true ... see Dave MacLeods video on this topic: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJaudmiMfZpgp8k

[@mcdick]

@@emilwrisberg Yeah, I haven't even heard about anyone hurting finger with open hand. With crimping, just pick a guy. Everyone at some point has atleast had a pulley problem. And it kinda makes sense as I started thinking about this yesterday. As primates our hands are designed for pulling from tree branches in pretty much open handed position. Also if one thinks about the crimping, you are basically putting force against the first joint on it's maximum "opening". vs on open hand you are just pulling on optimum direction regarding the joint.

[@bradhobbs_]

1.5x speed. Thank me later

[@stuartcoates9556]

1.25 is low key normal

[@JasonOgasian]

I just took some video of myself doing max hangs and I was really surprised how unengaged my shoulders were. Having the video of myself made a big difference!

[@karimchahine4883]

Great content, as usual! I was wondering about the combination of climbing and hangboarding in the same session. Because of specificity, I always prioritized climbing over hanging, at the cost of lowering the intensity of the hangs. Is speficity not much of an issue in this case?

[@szkleni]

Training finished, had dinner, waited for this like a matinee. :) Thank you very much for this! Very important advice, everybody should follow these!

[@LatticeTraining]

No problem!

[@HealingMushroom]

I have a question regarding the torso tilting forward while hanging. Due to my setup at home I can only do a bend hang with my knees at an angle. There is no way for me to have my body straight. Do you have any recommendations to improve this? Thanks a bunch for all your videos, they really helped me out a lot! cheers

[@maximebarber3780]

Thanks Lattice! As usual great and relevant content. I am especially guilty of mistake number 2!

[@Planet9_music]

Thanks for this!! I'm a beginner and wanted to make myself a hang board to build a bit more progression and this is super helpful!

[@krischaberlinger8625]

Great channel, subscribed. You don't talk about elbow engagement and also it looks at least like you (and the models in the app) are hanging straight on the holds. I am guessing you keep the elbows engaged, but not visible too much... Where as in other 'how-to-hangboard' videos or training books, the slightly bend or engaged elbow position is emphasized to minimize strain in the elbow tendons. Interestingly I found that it puts more strain on my elbow tendons to have an exaggerated elbow position while hangboarding. Opinion?

[@shomdi213]

Bro I came here tryna learn how to finger SKATEBOARD

[@XTjonaW]

If you feel that arched hang already in your Lower back you have a weak lower back/ something's off already

[@capacapa9733]

Hi could you tell me why i have wrist pain while fingerboarding. Nowhere else just when i hop on it not even while climbing.

[@Fred-oz3tw]

I do like to stretch while hanging with feet relativly far behind me and my whole body curved with my belly and my hips in front. I do really enjoy this position and it feels great. But this isn't in any way the recommended position, which you are presenting there. I wonder, if this will be an issue for my body in the future^^

[@XTjonaW]

It's all relative, sportsscience is NOT exact science...

[@Fred-oz3tw]

@@XTjonaW so i guess its fine

[@XTjonaW]

@@Fred-oz3tw yes of course, if it works for you and you get stronger why not? Anyways with dynos you get forced into this position quite often anyways so...even in lead in overhangs, so keep doing what ya doing 💪💪💪

[@alfrednOObel2]

When is the optimal time of the year for trainin closed crimp position? Is it directly before your designated peak performance seasion? Or rather some more time before?

[@hugoskagerlund2333]

Hi i am 13 years old and have been climbing for one year should i fingerbord

[@damarcus422]

Interesting stuff. You're almost always given the advice to never train in full crimp position, so its unique to hear such a badass pro climber say that it is appropriate at certain times.

[@telofy]

What is the right time of the year for full crimps? Is it about the temperature (summer?) or about individual factors? Ty!

[@EKdlwoasred]

Crimpmas 🎄

[@mirceacraciun]

fuck. you're so damn bloody gorgeous.

[@daviddos99]

you never come to a point ... :/

[@MrDziuka]

In relation to hanging on skeleton. I think it's about engaging lower traps to protect and support rotator cuff muscles. If you do isolated exercises for lower traps and they are strong they keep your posture correct and they support correct function of rotator cuff and scapula control. It's definitely worth to engage them like demonstrated whilst hangboarding to make them work and create good habit. Also hanging so relaxed like demonstrated here with incorrect technique of exercise and without legs involved makes breathing more difficult and I like to breathe.🙂

[@samnicklen2942]

excellent infomation and well laid out........ i played around and veiwed it at 0.5x playback speed. you sound so drunk!! haha

[@JasonOgasian]

0:45 this is hilarious!

[@SnowmansApartment]

can i fingerbord after another workout, if i still have too weak tendons to go to my max effort on fingerboarding? I‘m currently using a crimp block with weights to get to a point where i can hang on my own body weight. Strength wise thats really not an issue, but my tendons are still too weak to stay healthy if i load them too much..

[@GavynPendleton]

I’m definitely guilty of a few of these

[@MoodyWorksInc]

Ive been climbing on and off., mostly off, for 28 years, and mostly have stuck to the 5.10/low 11 range most of that time. This off season i decided to set a goal of climbing 12s regularly by summer (and up my crack game, another topic) To do this I've started projecting at the gym high 11/12/13 as I can Most of my climbing volume is around high 10s and mid 11s though. With this I've introduced 2x daily hangboard sessions. Nothing to failure and sticking to 10second hangs with various grips for now. My question: I am very concerned with finger/pulley injuries as they've put me out for long periods with minor strains in the past. This is the primary reason I've introduced the fingerboard. So in your experience how long do you think i should keep at this lower intensity lower duration hangs for now before i can start cranking safely on my fingers?

[@Lycian17]

Great content as always! I have a question related to hangboarding. I currently have a hangboard but it's not attached to any wall, so what I do is I add weight to it with a sling and then do my hangs pulling the weight from the floor. The issue is that I am not very sure what is the best body and arm position to do so. Any recommendations with that?

[@benjaminlecter]

Hi there, thanks a lot for this Video! This answers finally all my questions. BUT for your Information - this Video , another hangboard Video and some other Videos from you (for example the Video about the supplement) you don't find on YOUR channel!!! When I search specifically on youtube directly I find it. But how I said they are not listed on the lattice channel. Hope I could help. Greetz

[@bennomartini6372]

thanks for your really good videos for the "climbing population" ;-) extra thanks for your so well understandable ( and nice )english accent! cheers from the mainland.

[@kevinfromdevon]

What do I do if when I hang fully out straight, with my hips below my shoulders and I chronic shoulder instability on the right shoulder? The only way I feel that I can do dead hangs is with my hips forward. I've had over 50 dislocations over a 2 decade period. I do a lot of calisthenic work outs to make my shoulder strong and stable, but iam still afraid that it will pop if I hang fully straightened out. I can boulder 6b+/6c. Occasionally I find moves I have to avoid and occasionally when I slip a foot and fall I will pop that shoulder. Any advice will be greatly appreciated ❤️

[@1989SeanSmith]

Is it possible to get a finger injury from overloading in an open-3 drag position? Ive had a pain in the middle joint of my ring finger for ages now and can't figure out what's injured or how it happened. It's on the back of the joint, which I find strange (not palm side) and have zero pain when pressing on my tendons. Have you come across anything like this before? Cheers!

[@danielfry8097]

Hi Tom. So. I've had a right ring finger amputation at the second joint. During the surgeries that led to the amputation, they took a tendon from my right middle finger to attempt to repair the ring finger. The result of this is that my right middle finger end joint cannot go into a crimp position. I can full crimp with that hand, but the middle finger can never engage in crimp position, so I'm kind of one finger crimping with my pointer and like pressing down with the top of my middle finger.. If that makes sense. My middle finger maintains a kind of claw like position. I have almost always just drag gripped the times I've committed to hangboarding for a reasonable duration, and in this lockdown madness am getting back into hangboarding a few times a week again. I guess I have a few questions I've often wondered about when it comes to training with my fairly unique situation: If I can't half crimp on my right hand, is it better to have a half crimp left and open hand 2 finger drag right (this is kind of difficult and I think puts uneven weight across both hands)? If I'm half crimping left should I be full crimping right? What sort of gains am I missing out on by predominantly open handing when training? Should I full crimp hang more often because I can't half crimp? I usually do 2 sets of 5 ~8s 3(and 2) finger drag hangs then 1 set of 5 ~6s full crimp hangs. Can climb about 24 Aussie grades with some work.

[@chaozzah]

So, what is the plan if you simply can't do the hangs in half crimp? Once I apply my weight, I simply fold down to open hand. I'd have to go to less than 50% body weight and I am still not sure I could manage. I've been climbing for a year so it's not like I have no strenght. So do I try to force the half crimp with reduced body weight, or just go for open hand?

[@james__y]

Any advice on improving sloper grip on hangboards? I have to do one hand at a time with the other on a jug (using BM 1000), because if i try to deadhang from both, i slide off. So i'll have one hand on a slope and the other a jug, alternating and stabilising in the doorframe with my feet so i don't twist. It's really frustrating, my hand position does not change, it's engaged but i still slide if i go for both hands. I don't have this problem after a bouldering session, when i sometimes try the slopers before getting changed (I'm not doing a proper hangboard sesh at this time, just burning out the forearms a bit more before heading home); I can deadhang with both hands on the slopers for a few seconds. The 3rd mistake is something from this vid i do need to work on, this is a good reminder.

[@robertosullivan9027]

Helpful video. My problem is my anterior deltoids seem to be getting tweaked from hand boarding, even with engaging shoulders. I hoped you would touch on that in this video but will keep on researching.

[@rockiesbouldering]

You should rename your app Half Crimpd 😛 (which btw is very useful but could use a bit more clarification - for eg the finger strength program isn’t super clear if all sessions should be attempted, half of them etc). Thx for everything though!

[@marcgil9305]

Can’t wait to start my lite plan tomorrow!!! Very profesional, thank’s!!!

[@LatticeTraining]

Ah awesome... yes,, I recognise your name :-)

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Great advice 👍

[@gagermel1234]

yesterday i ripped a muscle fiber by doing 3 finger open grip. did a proper warmup but it seems i still wasnt ready for it. stay safe

[@lukass9595]

Doesn't the disengaged shoulder hang hurt your shoulders in the long run?

[@phillipebutler3796]

Mistake #2 is why I'm starting to have low back pain, thank you!! Not just on hard hangs, but with pull-ups, as my doorframe pull-up bar and portable hang board hanging off of it is fairly low for me. Is there a specific form you recommend? Bent knees? Or knees down with the core engaged? (asking for both pull-ups and hangs)

[@hayden9322]

Who else came here because they had a tech deck and not whatever this is

[@marcusgarrison810]

What times of year should one close hand?

[@cillijed4291]

I have to do open hand training because its way weaker than my half crimp

[@johnhudson5414]

Thank you tall thin Ant Mcpartlin

[@titopaul7529]

Problem 2 - body position was how I injured my shoulders before. My fingerboard was too low and forcing me into this front-levery position. I set my board higher so I can hang more naturally.

[@mikewiedenbauer108]

Question: Doing 3 additional hangs, with 3 finger open drag to the 6 half crimp hangs, would that work? Or what would be the best strategy here? Coz' i strongly believe that the 3 finger open drag is still a very important grip when it comes to injury "prevention" to some extent. Thanks for your answer(s)

[@alexgalays910]

6 half crimp hangs is quite a lot though. You could do 5 and 5 or something.

[@RB-ku6vh]

Is there benefit in doing open hand to half crimp reps? For example, dead hang with open hand and pull your grip into half crimp then back to open hand for reps..

[@LatticeTraining]

Robert Bruning we’re not keen on this at all... there’s some argument for travel between grip positions but at really low intensity (think sub-50%)

[@richardbradley8535]

Very useful. Especially as many of us only hangboard occasionally

[@linshuwang6860]

The color coordination is great.

[@TheSe77e]

Great content as always...perhaps do you have any numbers how much weight one should hang with 2 hands in order to be able to hang on the same edge one arm?? thanks a lot

[@noahsaxenian12]

I'd be very interested to know your thoughts on proper form for using a block for finger training. Feels like a very effective tool but also feels more easy to mess up and if I do it wrong it could be bad for my shoulders and back.

[@BioGlitch1]

I've got a free hanging 'awesome woodies' board. Would you change how you hangboard for this setup?

[@ejl74]

How the hell are there only 75 likes? Come on people!

[@SuperSaiyanPhysique]

Great tips thanks! If my 3 finger open is a lot weaker than my 4 finger half crimp, would you recommend a higher volume of it then?

[@EKdlwoasred]

Less is more

[@pastrop2003]

great tips, thank you, Tom!

[@ryanlafferty7807]

Thanks for the collection of invaluable information, especially now! A lingering question I’ve had...currently I have no access to climbing, and was thinking of increasing my hangboarding volume to compensate. Would it be safe/productive to progress up to 4-5 lower intensity (70%ish of max) repeater based hangboard sessions a week to keep that regular load up on my fingers? Legend Tom, thanks!

[@Cacovangor]

Ryan Lafferty would not want to do so many sessions of almost anything a week because once you are more than a 3/4 routine you have to have sessions on back to back days in which the first day you do not recover enough from to gain much and the second day you do not have the capacity to work hard enough. This is especially true of connective tissues.

[@ryanlafferty7807]

Cacovangor thanks for your advice...without my normal job I can break from my rigid weekday schedule, so I’d always give myself a full day off fingerboarding between sessions and still get 4 a week (a day and a half by switching between morning/night sessions). Without being able to climb, I’m unsure if more volume at lower intensity, or fewer high intensity sessions is best.

[@boulderfighters2590]

Nice video as usual. Thanks for providing such good content (not just this video, in general). One question though: Could you do a video about shoulder workout/training? I did not find anything concerning this on your channel and I think its vital for us.

[@LatticeTraining]

We'll get that done ASAP. We do have at least one video on some pull up info I believe. At present, a lot of the shoulder S&C work is with our Premium clients, who definitely get first priority from us :-)

[@boulderfighters2590]

@@LatticeTraining Thanks cool. Highly appreciate your videos, really helpful!

[@grigorymoroz8055]

Hi! How many times a week would you recommend fingerbording?

[@funkeybikemonkey]

Well.... You know... Lockdown sooo all times of the week 😅

[@mac476]

My ring finger only hurts when I hangboard not when I actually climb can you explain why that is?

[@Cacovangor]

mac ! Likely too narrow a grip position causing the ring finger to rotate to maximize contact

[@Friction_Addiction]

nonsense