First Look: The Future of British Climbing Walls

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Күн бұрын

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@danhawson3242 2 жыл бұрын

Dear climbing walls: Please start putting up (some/more) cracks and small hand jam holds. Guess how one of the staff at a wall near me responded when I asked if they could try to put up even just a few jams? "If you want cracks and jams, climb outside"... 🤯 The irony and mental contortions involved here is almost quite impressive.

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

Hopefully, as per Tom’s sentiments, it’s an area we’ll see grow. The fact they’re making such good cracks/volumes now - and that there’s people demanding them - should filter through eventually (or at least that’s what you’d hope)!

@paulhoulden 2 жыл бұрын

Whats the centre called so I make sure im never there, poor attitude

@danhawson3242 2 жыл бұрын

@@paulhoulden It's The Boardroom, near Chester. Although that was a comment from one of the staff (who I think is an instructor, not a route-setter), I suspect the other staff/setters don't hold the same bizarre opinion. To their (partial) credit, they do have a few wideboyz crack volumes but they're quite unimaginative and reluctant in putting them to use. I think, over many years, I've also only ever seen just one single hand jam from a couple of well-placed smaller holds anywhere on their lead & top-rope routes. Well done to that one setter, I suppose. 'Must do better', to the other setters. Mind you, the same could be said of the vast majority of other walls I've been to over the years.

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

@@danhawson3242 I guess that's another factor to take into account: not just the development of decent cracks/volumes, but also the ability to set good problems with them too, as that's a skill within its own right (and hopefully one that'll improve in time).

@daniellambden1842 2 жыл бұрын

I make a point to pester my local gyms for crack problems- show there's a demand for it and if they're a savvy business, they'll answer

@alexbarcovsky4319 Жыл бұрын

Am I the only one who would appreciate classic holds making a comeback? small, non-ergonomic crimps that eat into your skin like crazy and require micro-beta to utilize? I feel like indoorbouldering is becoming its own sport these days, zero carryover outdoors. I hope the concept of 3D scanning outdoor holds catches on though.

@ukclimbingofficial Жыл бұрын

YES!! As a lover of the thumb wrap/small crimp, I would love to see this happen!

@henrymunnich1648 2 жыл бұрын

I liked what that guy was saying about making community spaces in the climbing gym. I definitely think that's the future of bouldering gyms. Like imagine a gym with concerts. Someone please steal this idea from me otherwise I will make it happen.

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

There's definitely been a trend towards this, so maybe we just need to seed the idea to the right people 😉