First Week with K-Seal and Pushing Oil Out of the Dipstick Tube - Daily Driving a Classic Weekly

[@keithfletcher5788]

Oil coming from dipstick is a blocked engine breather.

[@RickCT2000]

She's living to fight another day! Keep her going. Old Jags never die, they just fade away!

[@markeaton2003]

I thought you deserved a thumbs up for your good comment I never get one it seems.

[@richardjohnson3463]

Excellent methodical analysis and approach to solving your issue Adam. Fingers crossed for you. Great channel

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Thanks Richard! I’m glad you enjoy the troubleshooting and channel

[@MM_in_Havasu]

Very cool video on the issue at hand! You did a great job comprehensively addressing it, and I think it will work just fine now. Thanks again!

[@eddiecleaver5376]

Really interesting video, thanks Adam. Wishing you, and the engine!! all the best.

[@frothe42]

You're correct in saying to troubleshoot first with the easiest, less expensive area and work to the more difficult. The engine sounds very good, a bit rough, but that was due to testing. I think this particular engine is a bit forgiving now that you put in two head gaskets, and it seems that K-Seal has worked for the time being. Another oil change and maybe some spirited driving will have the engine break-in. Great tips!

[@grayfool]

The in-line six cylinder is inherently well balanced. I've seen a couple of very poorly maintained sixes that still felt smooth even when one or two cylinders were misfiring. I think I would still prefer to ultimately rebuild that engine then replace it with another. Interesting to watch how things develop.

[@parrotraiser6541]

Excessive oil levels can be more serious than you'd think. British Leyland had a spate of crankshaft failures with a particular motor, which they traced to mistaken level markings on dispsticks from an outside supplier. When filled to the indicated marking, the crankshaft dipped into the oil and whipped it to a mousse. That wouldn't flow properly and starved the bearings. I'm a bit vague on the details now, but if anyone cares enough to research it, I think it was a mid-range (1800 cc?) Austin motor some time in the 1970s. The really stupid part was that they didn't scrap the remaining sticks, but used up the batch, leading to more failures.

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

Probably the Maxi / Allegro E-Series ?

[@jukkaaunola5942]

Important to get this running but I think we regular viewers are waiting the big and the most important news from you and your wife :-) Be patient...

[@springy-2112]

There's a good chance the rings will come back to life on cyl 2..Its worth trying just like the K seal . I agree with the oil level just over half way on the safe hatching. Filling to the full is something I've not done on any vehicle since the 80s, when oil consumption was an issue on the xj6 being full and a senior technician at the time gave me the heads up . Of the hundreds of vehicles I've owned or worked on I've never had an issue filling to half way between the marks ... Some of which I've been servicing for decades.. I think you're looking at this carefully and at some point you'll repair or replace the engine but there's no harm in trying to help the engine you have incrementally.. Peace and love brother and thanks again 👍🏻☮❤

[@LivingWithAClassic]

I hope the rings will come back too. May soak that cylinder in some ATF and see if that may help. Exactly, trying to see if this engine can live a little longer.

[@Rick-sl7iw]

Hi Adam a very enjoyable video yet again with some very useful info for me thank you for sharing

[@mikedx2706]

You should drain and refill to the correct level. Also might want to replace the seal or prong on the dipstick itself. Congrats on making progress with the coolant loss issue! I think you can”nurse” that engine along for many more miles.

[@markeaton2003]

I hope the K seal works and lets you use that engine. I suggest trying duralube, it really works, decreasing friction, heat and wear, while increasing compression.

[@SparkyGage]

Italian Tune Up video dropping soon!? I've done that high rev AFTER WARM UP trick on a few cars and found it really does help. Torquey Overhead Cam engines always seemed to benefit the most. Pushrod types not so much. My X300 seems to like an on-ramp pull to 60 in 2nd. That takes it to 4500ish. It's a daily driver but only gets above 45 a couple times a week. Always seems to idle smoother after a good pull or two. AGAIN WITH A WARM ENGINE (Adam, I know you understand, but I don't want a kid to wear out an engine doing hard runs when cold - I was that kid once)

[@samspianos]

Stuck rings can be freed up with an engine flush product or old school is to drain oil and replace with diesel and run for a few minutes then leave overnight then drain and refill with oil

[@LivingWithAClassic]

I think I'll add an engine flush just before I change out the thin oil I have in it right now. Should help to clear things up

[@lieberfreialsgleich]

@@LivingWithAClassic If there is a piston ring Problem, you better use Petroleum, just fill ist in the weak cylindre for some days. It weil surely help. Engine flush isn‘t bad but cannot help if rings don‘t move any more.

[@bobstride6838]

Very hopeful about the K seal Adam and I wonder if having too much oil caused your other issue? I always run my engine somewhere around the mid point between high and low. It certainly doesn’t look like a major issue after the compression tests

[@davidsolloway9349]

Interesting to see how that K seal works. Maybe it does work

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

If the rings got wet they may have slightly rusted into the grooves ? Hopefully with some ATF or diesel to soak them they will come back. Do your oil changes whenever you think, maybe the correct thicker oil will reduce the blow-by ?

[@johndavey72]

Hi Adam. Well you're kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place but it is what it is . It's quite likely the engine will settle down and springy 2112 seems to have long term knowledge of the twin cam 6 . l must say when l had my series 1 in the '70 's l did keep the level on the high side and she could only manage at best 200 per pint . But l think that was the norm' . Hope all is well with the family .....must be very soon !

[@LivingWithAClassic]

I’m hoping it will settle to an acceptable level soon. It is very soon! Due date has passed so it could happen at any time

[@springy-2112]

Hey John, I'm no expert . Just worked on many as an Austin Rover mechanic in the 80s and 90s.. but thanks for your mention.. Adam is very knowledgeable and also very lucky to own some beautiful examples.. The xj12 was the holy grail and almost had us fighting to work on back in the day , we didn't see many . If you lost you'd be doing Metro release bearings or heaven forbid a Maestro heater matrix !! Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮❤

[@johndavey72]

@@springy-2112 Hi. I trained as a panelbeater at a main dealer .We were usually the first to get any new Jaguars. I have a couple of pictures of the very first XJ12 we had. There's a site called just old British cars on messenger. I 've put a number of photo's on there . It's a brilliant site . Cheers.

[@springy-2112]

@@johndavey72 I will take a look 👍🏻☮❤

[@flemmingranch8777]

Nice job and a good informative video…

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Thank you!

[@Imacomingtoo]

Watch the k seal it may block the heater matrix

[@alexandrecouture2462]

You'll probably be fine! This car needs to be used. Your oil has more than likely absorbed a lot of humidity and with heat, humidity wants to go out. New oil, new filter and some miles will help a lot!

[@yellowgrape-z9k]

4:00 too much oil, in the engine "but i don't mind because that will just slosh around" HUH??? Too much oil causes seals and gaskets to blow and oil leaks to start... IT is worse to have a half to low than a too much.

[@jeffharrison5265]

Looking good from my point of view. Driver her and enjoy.

[@adriandean7815]

94 jaguar 4.0 engine just come up on Blocket. 16000mil. 2.500 kr

[@samspianos]

If you have used K seal then I assume you are apprehended of a head gasket issue; I would be removing all plugs from the engine and testing all cylinders for compression;removing only one plug is a bit lame since the starter has to overcome the compression in all the other cylinders;do like you did and crank with the throttle fully open You have already identified a low reading cylinder;all the cylinders should be getting about 150 psi; if they dont you may find where the head gasket leak is occuring you may also use a head gasket test kit which identifies exhaust gases in your coolant as a way of identifying a head gasket leak.this kit is about $25 on ebay.It does sound like a compromised head gasket and I would suggest using "Thermagasket" a product which will definitely seal a head gasket leak often permanently especially on a low use cycle car.Its the most expensive product of its type but does save spending thousands on a head gasket job.I have used such products with good results ;after all who wants to do a head gasket if its not necessary?

[@vincentbarnes7839]

Has your wife had the baby yet

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Not yet, the due date was yesterday so she’s one day past it at the moment