Scenic Adult - Sport Climbing in the New River Gorge

[@davidpaulcl]

That’s an awesome route....scared the bejeesus out of me when I tried it last month though! Nice job man

[@johnoutdoorvideos]

Strong work!

[@LiveLaughJordan-oi6tg]

On today's episode of 5.7 or 5.11?, Seth showcases his new book, Climbing For Dummies! Nice job, dude!

[@toddphillips9989]

Nicely done, Seth! Looks like a great route!

[@OffBelay_]

That 9:45 to 9:55 sequence was spicy!

[@Furansowakun]

How did you clip the first quickdraw ? It was already clipped before you start to climb

[@NatetheAceOfficial]

Cool climb and all, but what's that crack in the corner?

[@NatetheAceOfficial]

It's Tony the Tiger, a bolted 11c.

[@dpops42]

@@NatetheAceOfficial bolted crack :(

[@OojimaflipThingummy]

@@NatetheAceOfficial Tony the Tiger is the chalked up route further left of the crack. The crack is Enigma, 5.10a trad.

[@hoffmanfiles]

What did you flim with? Nice climbing. Clean footage

[@FirstPersonBeta]

Mostly with the Go Pro Session 5

[@staleyexplores]

This climb seems kind of 🌶

[@nelsonianb1289]

Thos bolta look suspiciously close to the edge of the rock

[@FloodCsgo]

Are you expected to rappel from the anchor? Or can you lower off of the chains?

[@FlatOutFE]

Lowering off the chains via a belay causes a lot more wear on the permanent hardware than a rappel. A rappel is always recommended. It's also much better for the longevity of your rope. Okay, so in very overhanging location like the New, a rappel makes more sense. I rappel to reduce hardware wear when practical. In many locations, like the New it's just fine to lower off. Follow your local ethic. I do recommend learning how to safely rappel though. It's not a death defying act.

[@130runescaperocks]

@@FlatOutFE actually, at New River Gorge specifically it is always suggested to lower off the chains. The only person to have died at the gorge did so repelling.

[@FlatOutFE]

@@130runescaperocks, because someone made an error and died everybody is supposed to lower? That's seems crazy. Rappelling is a standard part of rock climbing.

[@PatrickBeeson]

Flat Out rapping is the most dangerous part of climbing. It’s standard practice nowadays to lower from the chains. Hardware is replaceable, people aren’t.

[@danbachen7300]

Standard practice to TR through your own gear and for the last person to climb to lower from fixed hardware. You may hear people saying the rappelling is better as it reduces wear, but this is largely a holdover from trad climbing and the ensuing confusion as climbers have transitioned to more modern sport tactics. Lowering does wear fixed hardware faster, but also makes steep or overhanging pitches easier to clean and may be safer if the climb is set up with clips or rings that can accommodate a bite of rope so the climber does not have to untie. Furthermore always lowering on sport routes sets up a standard practice with the belayer and helps to avoid confusion about how the climber will come down, a common source of accidents. The current standard is moving toward fixed biners or mussy hooks for this reason. If you are worried about wear, donate to the local climbers coalition so they can buy more hardware and consider volunteering with maintenance once and a while. Alternatively, buy some quick links and rings and swap out worn components when you see them. Just make sure you are swapping in similar components and you tighten the quick links. If you want to rappel, that is your business but don't feel that you have to.

[@LachlanGB]

All that chalk everywhere is a bit of a shame, takes away from the fun of discovering the right way up.

[@LongBoy.0]

Haha, this is every sport route everywhere