Bad Day on "Feast of Fools"

[@lennyte1874]

I really like your videos because that is so much closer to my climbing adventures than all that high end stuff. I really can empathize with these climbing situations and I also try to put as much gear as I can allways abd everywhere. So much fun to see. Right now I am sitting in my bed sweating as I watch the video 😊. Stay safe.

[@ljam445]

Same... nothing like sweaty palms before going to sleep.

[@fizloki]

Dang!!!! You stayed so calm during that. Impressed. Nice job.

[@chinfat]

Way cool. Good protection and awesome fall. All part of climbing.

[@bradleywilson8607]

14:00 this is exactly what I say to my self everytime 😂

[@MusicPerusal]

Dude,. you are bad-ASS. Way to keep it together.

[@johns3106]

AHHH...those fixed pins at the Gunks often seem to appear just when you need them...I always try to clip them with a Screamer though...some of them have been there a loooong time!

[@giopilli1]

Great video - thanks for posting - very real. How did you recover all your gear then?

[@starship999]

Quality video, thanks for sharing. Nice to get the hands sweating even if I'm stuck inside.

[@tj6111]

it happens @19:24

[@MrHassancehef]

n°3... few year's ago, I've buy some cams to a guy for pretty cheap, he was also selling a n°3, for really cheap, i didn't take it, I would never use a such big friend! since that day I see placement for it everywhere

[@brianwetzel4093]

dang, you on an old piton?! thats awesome.

[@gunkclimber]

what's that falling thing you keep on doing? good thing I'm good at the catching thing;)

[@FirstPersonBeta]

+gunkclimber Yeah, it is a habit I need to break.

[@rogerbenton2755]

that crack in the flake visible at 8:16 is a bit horrifying

[@m.d.5324]

before the written commentary about not having the piece, in my head i was going "wtf?? put the 3 or 4 in that slot dude!!" great lead!

[@m.d.5324]

I was also kinda chuckling at all the sighs. I do that all the time!!

[@ljam445]

I've watched a couple of your videos and as someone who hasn't done any (but wants to get into) trad climbing, could you explain why you extend the runner when you clip. Does it make it easier to set pro/ reduce chance of it popping out? Love your videos btw!

[@kurthoelter3495]

so many coarse projections in the gunks, it reduces rope drag and lessens chafe on a good rope.

[@josephrusyn5067]

for someone new to trad what do you do after a fall like this? especially if you are dangling and cant touch the wall to get back on. how do you retrieve all of your draws? do you need to send the rest of the pitch or can you use an ascender to get back up? sorry a ton of questions i know haha.

[@FirstPersonBeta]

No worries. This one was pretty easy as I was able to get back on and complete the climb. So long as you can get to the top of the pitch, getting the gear back back is pretty straight forward. In this case, if I wasn't able to pull the moves on this climb, I could have climbed the route immediately to the left which is easier and ends in the same place. If that's not an option, I probably would have just aided to the the top of the pitch. Point being I generally have a plan to get to the chains if I think I might encounter a sequence I can't pull. If you end up dangling out in space, you have couple options. If you were confident in the placement that held your fall (there's a good chance it's fused in place), you could boink, which is a common practice when climbing steep sport. It's much more nerve racking to do it on trad but I've seen people do it (vimeo.com/11760295 : jump to 12:57 to see this in action). Boinking can be a lot of work and it requires coordination between yourself and your belayer. If boinking isn't an option, then you can use two Prusik knots to ascend the rope (a Prusik being the knot Cody ties in the video to help him boink). You can do it with one but you need to be pretty damn strong to pull it off. Boinking and ascending are skills you can look up and practice or find someone that understands the process and ask them for a lesson. I'd recommend both (generally my MO). However most of the time, you also have the option of just being lowered to the ground and trying again.

[@bonefishboards]

That pitch needs a big cam to protect the crux.

[@anvariel4]

Nice advertising for a #3 Cam... :D I tell myself the same thing every time i climb in alpine limestone. :)

[@civedm]

Awesome fall. If you're not falling, you're not climbing.

[@drjagunco]

Best video

[@wardvandamme7929]

What's the name of the thing you put in the rock around 2mins? That little metal thing?

[@FirstPersonBeta]

+Ward Van Damme Black Diamond Stopper Nut. I believe the one you're refering too is a size 7. If you're getting into trad, a set of stoppers is pretty essential (doesn't have to be Black Diamond) and should probably be one of your first purchases.

[@davidberman3998]

There are 5.10's and then there are Gunks 5.10's! This climb requires iron testicles haha. Nice job!

[@RideAdventurous]

Big ride!

[@ananda_miaoyin]

Nice.

[@Lax-Sharks]

Now I know why you trust the pitons so much...lol. There is no way I could have hung out in the overhanging part that long, no wonder you yawned Narcissus.

[@6king533]

RocksandSharks I believe the word you were tying to spell is "narcissist".

[@ianfenimore7453]

The word narcissist comes from the greek myth of narcissus who was obsessed with his own appearance.

[@mattmakescovers]

No, he's referring to a route in Summersville Lake in WV named "Narcissus."

[@hellsangel2005]

great video bro. but I'm not seeing the 5.10 grade. it looks like a 5.8c+ or 5.9a/b- . does "trad" climbing it boost the grade?

[@mattgraham4340]

I know this is an old comment, but come on man. Is this a troll, or do you not have a passing familiarity with the Yosemite decimal system? Maybe you're conflating it with European grades

[@johns3106]

The Gunks are one of the oldest climbing areas in the country, with some of the longest history of continual advancement through the grades...therefore, you can bet that the grades at the Gunks are as accurate and true (as much as any grading system can be). No, trad climbing doesn't boost the grade, but a trad 5.10 will definitely feel harder than a sport 5.10, since you have to hang out, figure what piece to place where, and then actually place it. And what the video doesn't accurately show is just how steep/ overhanging Gunks climbs are!

[@jongray4828]

Can’t watch go pro videos!

[@scalparm]

Nice fall! Well taken!! So, you're new to trad? If I may, a couple pieces of advice. First, carry more nuts, especially small sizes. And try to find vertical as opposed to horizontal placements when you can. I know it's hard at the Gunks but a vertical placement, oriented in the direction of the load is always preferable to something horizontal that would bend the stem of your gear over an edge. NEVER place a nut in a horizontal seem, I saw you did it in one of your videos. Bad bad bad!! For these kind of placements, tricams are really the best. And personally, I would never place a mini cam, .3 or smaller, in that kind of placement either. Second, get some tricams and learn how to use them. They're amazing in all that horizontal shit that you have to deal with there!! Thanks for videos. I enjoyed watching, if bit stressful. Cheers.

[@vbuffalini]

Scal parm i don't think he's new to trad....

[@maximecastilloux9049]

horizontal nut are bomber! they are design for this too, you put de round part down side and you fall it creat a lever on the rock (like a DMM torque nut for exemple)