Fitting a Muslin Mock Up || 1890s Victorian Velvet Coat

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foundationsrev... ***
After months of work on creating a believable pattern for my version of the iconic 1890s embroidered velvet coat, it's time to mock it up at last!
So this month I make a test version in calico (muslin) and show you how I fit it to my shape.
I'll also answer a tricky design question. There are a couple of weird little darts in an unusual place on the original coat, and the reason for those becomes obvious when we can see the coat in action, on a body
.
Love, Cathy x
Edited by Sophie Black at @triskellepictures
/ @triskellepicturesuk
Music credits (in order):
“Flying, Floating, Falling” by ‪@davidrosslawn‬ (from the album ‘Nocturnes’)
“It Starts With Us” by Airae (from Epidemic Sound)
“Caught In The Waves” by Trevor Kowalski (from Epidemic Sound)
“The Girl From North” by Magnus Ludvigsson (from Epidemic Sound)
“No Wonder” by Bonn Fields
“Rising” by ‪@davidrosslawn‬ (from the album ‘Nocturnes’)
“Aero” by Trevor Kowalski (from Epidemic Sound)
“Valerian” by ‪@davidrosslawn‬ (from the album ‘Nocturnes’)
“Opening Up” by Heath Cantu (from Epidemic Sound)
“I Gläntan” by Silver Maple (from Epidemic Sound)
You can also follow me and see my own sewing on Instagram:
/ cathy.hay
Your letters and cards are welcome at Mr Worth's old place.
7 Rue de la Paix
Paris 75002
France
If you're in the UK, I also have an address here:
1 Northumberland Avenue
Trafalgar Square
London
WC2N 5BW
United Kingdom
Please don't send parcels - the fees to have them imported/forwarded to me are expensive! Contact me first if it's something special or important.
Thank you, thank you, to everyone who has sent something to me. It is deeply valuable to read your words in your own handwriting and hold them in my hands. It helps me to connect to who you really are, and what you really need from me. I read, enjoy and treasure every one. Thank you.

[@stievedelance]

Hi, just a thought about the shoulder wrinkles, I would wager the original has tailors canvas in that point internally and a second circular pad on top between the layers to fill the hollow. I'm working on a fitted Edwardian jacket and the same issue with corset on and off. Fixed it with the canvas and pad stitching. Good luck!

[@My_mid-victorian_crisis]

Oh, my giddy aunt!!! Your "Luca" is Ruth Goodman's/Victorian Farm's "Luca"!?!?!? Why did I never put 2 and 2 together? I've been a free Foundations Revealed/Wardrobe Unlocked member for about a decade now, and I'm in shock. Of course, only the best work with the best.

[@connie6545]

I used to make ALL my clothes, down to a Vogue pattern for my wedding dress. My mother had seamstress training, and taught me so many skills. The clothes I made fit well; didn't pucker or pull, and I chose the fabric and pattern (I wish she would have taught me pattern making, too). I DID get ready-made patterns, yet still had to modify them. I LOVE your process, and I have learned a lot--patience. "measure twice; CUT once"--especially velvet. Look forward to your next fitting/tutorial. Love ya, Cathy!! 👏✨🧵❤

[@noeraldinkabam]

It’s gonna be soooo beautiful!

[@randimonaghan4058]

So helpful showing your tailoring techniques, should the darts from the neckline be equidistant from the center of the coat?

[@lenabreijer1311]

It is looking very good. But I think you will need bigger armholes and more space across the back. This is a coat that will go over other clothing so it will need space. The dark colours and heavy velvet suggests this is a winter garment so worn over winter formal wear. As for posture, those corsets will curve your back and throw your shoulders back.

[@aidenwolfe658]

I was curious, did you end up removing videos of the gown that you were making? I remember watching your videos a year or two ago and thought that you were working on a controversial piece, but unable to find the videos. Was there just a lot going on around it that left you needing to take it down? Or am I looking in the wrong place?

[@amberowens6649]

Not only is this an absolute masterpiece of a garment and videos she is making but I’ve noticed how amazing her voice is sounding. She has made some amazing progress on her voice and I am so proud of her! It’s sounds better and better ever video and it’s so inspiring. I’ve always hated how my voice sounds and she has inspired me to start doing vocal exercises to help change it. Also I’m very much going to make that coat but make it a little different to fit my style. Love you so much Cathy!❤️

[@mndlessdrwer]

Finally being able to make significant headway in a project that you can work on without feeling cultural guilt is such a confidence booster.

[@loviedecker6181]

I would pay a great deal of money to have this talented lady make me a wedding dress.. I have learned more from just watching her and her explain each step than I have from all of my classes I have ever taken ..amazing simply amazing much love from Miss Lovie in America...

[@alexandraaaron9705]

Write Her a Letter ❣️

[@adrianburrell6217]

My design/sewing partner (deceased some years back) last did a Victorian (White brocade and more) in the Elizabethan style as our last collaboration. The hours of drafting, fitting, real silver embroidery, real seed pearls, silk brocade wholesale at $60.00 a yard... Never again. Oh, we live in Arizona, the bride in Chicago, Illinois. Luckily her measurements and mine were very close until...she lost 3" off her waistline before the last fitting. I had put costumer's seams in the closet and bodice, but the cartridge pleats in the underskirt and overskirt ALL had to be re-set. In two days. Never again.

[@mndlessdrwer]

She also puts as much work into her mockups as most people do on their finished products.

[@lizandanel1461]

I wholeheartedly agree! If I ever get married again I would love a Cathy hay victorian inspired lace gown! Would also loooooove her to recreate my favourite back and white worth gowns! (ironwork, iris and lily) Rewatching before the new installment of the coat!

[@WILLB99]

Oh I can't wait there is something truly magical about what the process of from a photo to seeing the intricate detail making the dress come to gether. Roll on 19 hrs and counting 😍😍😍😍🥂

[@adrianachong9029]

In retrospect I feel this really is the right project for you. I’m so glad to see how nicely this project is going. Not without its difficulties but certainly not the roller coaster of obstacles with the peacock 🦚 dress. I can’t wait to see that gorgeous velvet appear and what the final project will be. I am also dying for the embroidery and decoration part. 😍

[@221b-Maker-Street]

Likewise! 🖤

[@cookliet8444]

I still feel bad imagining her 11/10 years of hardwork and dream was shattered :)

[@liddybird3608]

While you we're twirling the muslin around at the beginning of the video, I was imagining the coat made in velvet. It's going to be absolutely luscious.

[@cryingeyeslove]

We've just changed our weekend plans so I can watch this live 🤣🙊 I regret nothing!!!!

[@Zentranii]

To watch you doing everything so careful and thoughful, its truly a joy. I am eger to see what the finished coat is gonna look like and im gonna be all over it!

[@whitewitch32]

I miss your's and Bernadette interaction

[@EnkeliinaLAL]

"The clothes make the wo/man." Clothes can really help you shape your posture, and by extension your mood, attitude, etc. As long as it is mutually agreed upon by cloth and clothee 😉.

[@cincocats320]

I really like how you have broken up this project into chunks that allow us to see the steps involved from idea to planning to execution and show how attention to detail pays off in the end. It really helps the viewer conceptualize much better than most makers one off videos where VOILA the complex project is done in half an hour.

[@videogalwatch]

"Fell into a Victorian Booby Trap.". Me hitting playbackspeed to ZOOMING. Also beware in close-fitting bust area for eveningcoat muslin:. 1890's pattern meant to be OVER foundations & ornate clothing. Will be lined, interfaced & made from heavy velvet. Bigger is better.

[@yhmkriek95]

I agree + fitting for a coat with a summerdress is not the best. Something with a little more bulk is better, especilally for the sleeve heads. They looked a bit in the small size.

[@dawndippery9277]

OMG! 😂🤣😂 I can’t even count how many time I have pinned to my clothes or to whomever I was fitting the outfit to. I really needed that laugh today. On another note, your voice is sounding FABULOUS! When you got excited it started to fad which made your regular voice sound so much better! I AM VERY PROUD (of you) & HONORED you have shared this journey with us.

[@centurycountess4949]

Just finished watching, I love how when the new darts and the alterations at the top started, giving that loose fitted Triangular almost cone shape the coat has. I am looking forward to the next process, especially about the gorgeous collar.

[@HowardBrook]

8:16… your voice… changed! Knowing how hard you are working on it and how sort of intence this topic is…. It makes me so happy to hear you that way coz it seams that you are so excited that you managed to let go even if for a short while… so proud of! Also the project is comeing along so nicely!!! 💖

[@arachnessister6293]

the intriguing bust darts will certainly give me another option when I'm fitting problem shapes at work...thank you..so very informative and always interesting to see how other stitchers tackle problems

[@nanettebromley8843]

Thank you Cathy. Looking good. Thank you for explaining the darts and pulling up of shoulder seams. I always have to adjust shoulders and bust darts in patterns and I've never been sure if i was doing it correctly. Ah calico, one of my favourite materials. Just bought some more today for mock ups. Heavy and medium weights. Hopefully the heavy weight will be right for Victorian corset mock up. Medium for a made to measure patterns tunic and waistcoat. Hopefully will end up as interlining at least for the waistcoat. Glad to see I'm not the only one that ends up pinning mock ups to self :)

[@carolempluckrose4188]

I so wanted the book that this came from. Sadly it's way out of my price range. I'm going to enjoy you making this coat. Thank you Kathy.

[@ghemertseluyden4945]

Hello Cathy, it's nice to follow your process with this coat. About the darts: I have learned to draw them always until 2 cm before the bust point. That gives a more smooth shape. Good luck with the collar and the sleeves! Kind regards, Iemkje

[@hannaverlie6747]

I love hearing the way you (and other people sowing clothes) talking about your body - just stating facts about it, matter of factly (how is that phrase spelled?😂)

[@katechiconi]

When you made that comment about the smell of freshly pressed calico, I was overwhelmed by my own memories of 40 years ago, and my days at fashion college. The memory of that smell is as clear as if it was yesterday... I love how swoopy and dramatic this coat is going to be!

[@rik4754]

Love seeing your thought process while you look at yourself in the mirror These Videos always seem too short 😔 I would watch hours of you drafting and making mockups

[@allyncollins359]

If you allow for the seam allowance on the front center seams, you don't need to take out anything. Don't they meet together? It also seems like you haven't left room for all the layers underneath; undergarments, corset, dress, coat lining. Wouldn't you want it a bit looser?

[@MelDaltonMusic]

How marvelous to have something to try on! Isn't it satisfying when you get to that point of a project? 😍

[@davidrosslawn]

many thanks for using my piano music! ♡

[@-Reagan]

Oh, I almost clicked away when I realized the main vidéo hadn’t premiered, yet! I did set a reminder but, had I missed this preview, I would possibly have skipped the main vidéo. Now, I know I definitely want to see this! What interesting seams! Hmm... 🤔 very cleverly draped and dramatic! Do you ever sell your patterns? I would love to make this. Beautifully executed!

[@brianadixon8995]

What do you do with your mockups when your are done? When I do a mockup I essentially make a final garment. I'm a little asymmetrical so I always make both sides and I even test the stitching I want to do for the final (make sure EVERYTHING WILL WORK). I also work as a proto maker for a garment manufacturer so I have gotten use to make a mockup that will be used as the showroom sample. I ended up with a whole bunch of finalized mockups just taking up space in my cabbage bin (but too chicken to take it apart). On a whim I tie-dyed a few of them, now I tie-dye all my mockups. Now I get 2 garments for the work of one (sort of).

[@TheSuzberry]

My granddaughter and I were in the V&A in March 2022. I was excited to see the coat IRL. she was just confused at my excitement. (You’d laugh if you could see me sit up straighter every time you said posture😎)

[@marjohnsmusings3222]

I am so pleased you are looking chipper today and making serious headway on you lovely coat. I just got a vintage pleater and I am going to try to make a smocked bishop. Wish me luck.

[@avivagodfrey]

This coat is so powerfully ***swooshy***. I'm turning green over here, yo.

[@TheEconWoman]

I love your work and hate to make any negative comments but I find myself not liking the darts. I think they’re too long and they accentuate the dropped breast that so many of us experienced women have. Also I think the microphone pined to the side is making the placement of the left start somewhat off center. You are such a gifted seamstress but it is very difficult to pin things on yourself as you showed us with the shoulders. With everything so spot on, I would hate that the front dirts take away from the overall beauty of this creation.

[@cheekymare2779]

I love this coat... PS your voice is sounding more confident and louder. Keep up the progress on both.

[@halinakajfoszova4354]

"Ooh ooh a new video!! Time to make a cupp and watch this one" *she says as she madly gulps down the contents of her tea, nearly choking in the process, and rushes to the kitchen to boil the kettle and make a fresh cuppa!!*

[@annacatherinesendgikoski1965]

This is going to be a truly amazing coat for a truly amazing woman!

[@aperfecttouch]

Pressing, pressing, pressing. Takes as much time as stitching! Maybe more!

[@cryingeyeslove]

Fitting it for your posture would be so much more comfortable, if this project is going to be a regularly worn piece

[@nicolakunz231]

So good to hear from you. Ooooh sleevil hell next! I'm also Perishing to see how you do That Collar. It deserves the capital letters.

[@lupinotuumlunam]

You can really see all the effort you put into patterning paying off in this. Only minor adjustments are needed. It is going to look great.

[@christinemcleod-curran2073]

This is amazing, the way you explain the fit is incredible....loving seeing how this project is coming together

[@knittinghands23]

Thank you, Kathy. Your experience helps me things to consider when I am ready to make my winter coat.

[@slbarbieri1725]

Hello, Cathy~ Now since you've adjusted for wearing a corset, I'm curious as to whether or not the bust darts would have to be adjusted for wearing the same corset? Would your bust *fullest point* ride higher or fuller with the corset on? Hmmm...

[@PhantomTemple]

To be honest i would add 2,5cm to the length in the back. The reason is, that this coat was probably worn to impress, and the bearer ws probably driven to the occasion in a carriage. So the hem would'nt get dirty by the street. adding just that small measurement would make the coat "catch" the floor a bit better, so that when you walk in the coat, it would drag just a bit like a train, opening the bottom of the coat a bit more, so you can see the embroidery a bit better :D

[@amberwright8541]

YOUR VOICE IS DOING SO WELL COMING BACK!!!!! I'm so excited for you!!!!!!!!!😊

[@bettyjotatum6115]

It's clearly well drafted and fits nicely overall. I was wondering when you were talking about the shoulder fit if they used any kind of shoulder pad in that era?

[@MorbidRose86]

Absolutely in love with your videos! This coat is going to be gorgeous 😍

[@danielletdg8423]

I'm loving watching you explore the process and making this coat. And thank you for keeping in accidentally pinning yourself to the mockup, I have done this so many times. 😆

[@peggyriordan9857]

It looks like it's coming together so well...I am very excited for you!! I learned alot too, so thank you for that. The dress you were wearing was also very pretty. I love that type of print and having the split makes it so easy to wear for any occasion. Can't wait for the next episode. Congrats again on the pattern making and thanks for the fitting lesson.

[@kasession]

Wow. She's using a manually powered sewing machine. That's commitment!!!! 👍🏿

[@elizabethwoolston]

"Pin, pin, pin, la, la, la" 😂❤️ I love your subtitles! I know how much work goes into subtitles, and I love your detail and humor 😄

[@medicwebber3037]

You really brought the joys of pressing seams home, lol. I was saying to myself: "Yeah, this'll take a while.", and then they date changed, lol.

[@elbajimenez6519]

I really enjoy your smooth whispering voice...and ancient...very proper and allow audience to stop and listen..show time like your sawing machine!!

[@KellyfromMemphis]

(Lovely editing! And music selection was beautiful and worked so well! Cheers to your editor! Me: I just discovered your channel earlier today…LOVING everything so far. Trying to make my own clothes [Dior 1947-1962] and I am discovering sewing community here on KZbin! 🤗)

[@ashleighnightengale6642]

I love this project!!!!!!!!!! The coat Ms. Hay is designing is similar to what Bertha Russel (a character from HBO's Gilded Age) wore over her elaborate red evening gown when invited to the opera. That coat was/is fantastic, so I KNOW what Ms. Hay is designing a showstopper!!!

[@nonakabyrd5759]

This type of wrap coat was very popular during the Civil War Reconstruction in America but 2nd Empire Period in Europe. No matter what you decide to make in dress fashion, there is always something that gives angst. Wish she would have stuck with the Peacock Gown. History even Dress History is messy and offensive to some part of the population.

[@marikotrue3488]

I never realized that! People stood up straighter, so the sewing patterns naturally reflected that. My posture is horrific, the Victorians would be scandalized. Actually many things that I do (and wear) would scandalize the Victorians. 😉

[@adrianburrell6217]

I can't help myself. "The proof of the pudding is in the tasting." But jealousy is racing through my brain. My project is coming along through its iterations and changes due to fabric limitations. And when your weight keeps shifting....but it's getting there.

[@ziigy4545]

Cathy, I wasn't sure if I should say it, didn't want to make you self-conscious, but felt you needed to hear this. It is important. Your voice sounds wonderful! With each video it gets stronger and stronger and I am so very happy for you. When you spoke of the circumstances that made you lose your voice I cried for you. But you have found it again! So I've now got happy tears, which are infinitely better. The coat is coming along beautifully. I am learning so much following this journey with you. Thank you!

[@kantje2458]

Thank you Cathy. I hear my mum raising her voice: “shoulders back!” Before computers and mobile phones. But I read a lot. And became a librarian… With slumping shoulders…

[@lorrainemunoa791]

I feel so vindicated seeing you with my same feelings about SHOULDERS. I have broad shoulders and altering or sewing always has to account for them if I want anything to look really tidy. They ARE a pain in the butt.

[@HowardBrook]

8:16… your voice… changed! Knowing how hard you are working on it and how sort of intence this topic is…. It makes me so happy to hear you that way coz it seams that you are so excited that you managed to let go even if for a short while… so proud of! Also the project is comeing along so nicely!!! 💖

[@janicemcalisterdouglas7351]

Watching you puzzle out and talking through your patterns and drafts and mock-ups brings me joy!

[@lucyannethrope7569]

Just realized that the shape of my trapz (shoulder muscles) and my pecs in co-existenze with the back side of the shoulders kind of forces me to have a very edwardian/victorian posture by nature. Guess having a muscular, barbarian/crossfit -trained body isn't all bad when it comes to historical fashion.

[@tessalee6253]

I haven't had an opportunity to watch a video of yours for quite some time. If I may comment; your voice is so much stronger and more confident. Congratulations on your progress in your healing journey. 😍 *** The dressmaking, as always, is absolutely delightful to watch. 💕

[@alib8758]

Even with modern patterns some people still need to do a forward shoulder adjustment. It's the most common adjustment, I make right after the bust adjustment of course.

[@nicoleharper8867]

Hahaha 'And ofcause Ive pinned it to myself'. Totally loving the joyous simplisities of being hunam. 😁

[@cliffp.8396]

I thoroughly enjoyed watching and learning. You are exceptionally skilled in your craft.

[@dan.1433]

I think you've done a great job with this project so far, there's one thing I thought might be useful to say just in case - in the video where you were looking at all the websites for your detective work, as another commenter pointed out, the width? of the hem at the bottom was 108" rather than 106". It's very likely that you've already noticed this but I thought it could be worth mentioning :)

[@womensarmycorpsveteran2904]

I too was concerned that you were making it too small to go over period clothing until you mentioned someone already mentioned it. I also feel I should mention that you not forget to add a bit more “ease” in the fit to allow for the thickness & bulk of the velvet which will make it even tighter in the sleeves & bust. I love being able to “be there” to share in your process abandoned journey. I have 60 years of experience with garment making. Can’t wait to see the next step. I saw the same style of coat in the mini-series “The Guilded Age” .

[@Skirt553]

hazards of sewing and trying on mockups: Pinning your mockup to your shirt. It's one thing I've done as well, more times than I care to count, lol

[@jessicanielsen7831]

I am enjoying your video and being inspired while pinning lace to the bottom of my daughter's dress. I have been sewing since the spring and I love it so much. Thank you for your videos 🥰

[@catpmarga]

I think also that the weight of the velvet versus that of calico will deal with a bit of the shoulder wrinkling. I made a tea-gown out of some very heavy yet lovely drapery fabric many years back and found it was more forgiving than a muslin!

[@bethliebman8169]

I thought the shoulder lift made the armscye too high under the arm. Won't you need more room there? Really interesting video, as usual. I love it when think aloud as you problem-solve.

[@alaskacosplay]

Not gonna lie, I would love to make a coat like this and make the back pool out into a long train because Im extra and I love impractical things like excessively long trains made of expensive fabrics.

[@twjr2855]

Still wish you would have finished the Peacock dress. We cannot go back only forward but I do feel even though it opened old wounds it could have also healed them by bringing light to it.

[@breeinatree4811]

I really liked how you worked through the shoulders. That is my weakness. Thank you so much for your tutorials, I really enjoy them.

[@beglitchery]

Personally I'd shift those bust darts into the shoulder along the lines of a princess seam but depending on the fabric you won't notice them for all the embroidery anyway.

[@kjmav10135]

Do you really fit yourself? Nobody looking at the garment on you and pinning? I could never figure out how to do that and get an accurate, even fit! You amaze me.

[@a.gumbellina]

Ohh, I cannot wait for the next one! :) Watching your process really helps spell some things out for an amateur dressmaker like me. Not only that, your videos are relaxing, informative, and oh so elegant. Thank you for your work!

[@pheart2381]

I wonder what the person who wore it was actually doing in it? For example a violinists dress would need to be tailored completely differently. For sacheying into a box at the theatre I suppose you need to consider how they were travelling there.

[@KestralWolfe]

It's just so wonderful. seeing you excited and happy with a project. You always make my day brighter, and inspire me to create. Thank you.

[@SuperNovaSirius]

The subs to this video made me laugh so hard. 'Soft pinning music' 'Pin pin pin, lalala'

[@janemarriott3389]

Yea, Cathy’s here! Hang on, I’ll fetch a cupcake! Be right back ♥️

[@lindathompson3660]

Just curious, did Victorian women's coats not use shoulder pads? 🤔☺️💜

[@nefraial]

Reminds me of the days I had girls standing in their dresses while I tucked up the hems to the right height. Having someone else measure a hem up IS really the best way to get it even so I feel your difficulty in getting it right on your own by trial. I'm looking forward to seeing this progress. There is something very satisfying in handwork.

[@teresamorgan4529]

Just curious, did the Edwardians really continue bust darts all the way to the apex?

[@CuriosityRocks]

I would love a video on your current book collection and a video showcase and explanation of all the tools you use

[@bdgies2721]

What do you do with the muslin after you’re finished using it as the mock-up?

[@labruun]

I was laughing so hard when you realized that you had pinned it to yourself. I have done that so many times.

[@maureenhargrave3568]

The joy of you running out in the garden and twirling around in your mock-up coat has kept a smile on my face all day.

[@nickiel577]

Pinning the mock-up to your clothes deeply relatable

[@janethopper3462]

What will happen to this mock up when your finished with it? Will you keep it or dismantle it?

[@BYBabbra]

Well I did cringe when you were pinning yourself to your alterations, as I have done so myself in the past. Looking forward to seeing how the sleeves and collar go in, collars are just a pain I always have to do them more than once. Thank you Cathy.

[@thumpr1]

"of course I've pinned it to myself". love that. LOL

[@margaretlynch1494]

🙋‍♀️❤Beautiful lady, Beautiful work!