Fitting Sleeves The Armhole

Fitting sleeves can sometimes be even more challenging than fitting pants.
Most of us have experienced strange draglines, odd twisting and general discomfort on the sleeves of at least one of our sewing projects. Finding the cause and the solution can be frustrating so today I’d like to begin a video series all about sleeves.
I’m starting this series with one of the most important elements of a good fitting sleeve: the bodice armhole. I’m starting here because it is impossible to achieve a good fitting sleeve if the armhole it is sitting on doesn’t fit. The armhole must be the correct size and shape for your body before you can even begin assessing the sleeve. Watch the video to dive a bit deeper into what a good fitting armhole looks like and how to assess if it’s a good base for your sleeve.
After you watch the video, I'd love to know if you had any insights or ah ha moments; I hope you'll share them in the comments!
Get the resources mentioned in this video here: www.inhousepat...

[@annethevenot461]

Such an excellent description of the necessary bodice armhole fit BEFORE you even get to the sleeve attachment! Many thanks.

[@ao5650]

This is the best sleeve tutorial ever. I have looked for these explanations for years. Thank you so much Alexandra

[@sreneefe]

This is an excellent sleeve tutorial. I have paid for several, but this one is more succinct but at the same time offers really helpful details.

[@mcjohnsonsgirl]

I love your comprehensive, no fluff videos.

[@thegreenpincushion510]

I am so delighted that I discovered your channel. This is the first time I have understood what’s important, and why in fitting sleeves. Your explanations and teaching style are both amazingly accessible, while also providing sufficient information and context. Many, many thanks for sharing your expertise. If you do not already do so, I hope you will consider selling instructional sewing dvds.

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

The Greenpincushion thank you so much! I have a couple of online courses already and a new one will be available later this year! You can view them at inhousepatternsstudio.com

[@NadoCrowFriend]

Thank you, Alexandra, for this very helpful info ( Sleeves really can be so challenging! )

[@gillianbc]

Love the idea of the two L-shaped rulers. I will make something similar from card.

[@genahowe4206]

Aha. I recently found instructions on making a bodice block, just before I found your videos and website. I made the block, but the armhole just looked "off" compared to all the images I found online. After looking at it for awhile, it finally started to occur to me that it was my measurements and how they differ from the size charts. I'm small and narrow on top but really widen out on the way down :(, and I also realized that people's armhole shapes would vary as well as other aspects of the body. This video really helped me clarify my thinking (I hope), so now I'm not afraid to even make that first muslin to check it out. I've been binge watching your videos (on your website and on KZbin) and am learning so much. Thank you.

[@ahliahomes9002]

Crystal clear explanation covering all necessary aspect. It really helps me in getting a comfortable and fit in sleeve. Thank you for sharing. Keep up the excellent work and kind contribution. ❤👍🙏

[@jibiben8022]

Such a wonderful explanation, thank you so much Maam.

[@FranciscaPires]

thank you for explaining armholes both in paper and on the mannequin this was extremely helpful!!

[@silversagapatterns]

I would love a tutorial on how to draft a sleeve for a sleeveless bodice pattern. I have struggled with this a lot, probably because the angle of the armhole changes and my regular sleeves wont fit? Thank you for one of the best You Tube channels!

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Jessica Silversaga I have an online course on drafting that you may be interested in! You’ll find all the details at inhousepatternsstudio.com

[@bethwhislersews]

I have to add a sleeve to a formal sleeveless vneck dress. This helped me process some of my difficulties. Not certain how I’m going to fit the sleeve to her arm. AND I only have so much material to work with. That she bought from the shop. Working with a plus size arm

[@patriciaingraldi4719]

Excellent information, thank you

[@LeticiaRSC]

What a great video! So helpful! Thank you!

[@paulaperedocordeiro2545]

Thank you so much for your helpful video!

[@wondergirlray]

Fantastic content, as always!

[@Mysicalgreenunicorn03]

Your videos are such a resource!

[@christry1]

This is a great video. Now to put this into practice!

[@sewtania4074]

The rules of thumb you provide on how an armhole should typically fit were very helpful to me. I always find armholes to be huge but way to short whether in RTW or sewing patterns. The armholes are generally 4 or more cm below my armpit and I have wings at the front and back. I also find sewing patterns often have 5 or more cm of ease in the sleeve cap. I have very long thin arms. I also have a really high bust so often slash right through the armscye of the front and back to pattern pieces to correct the armhole & bodice. Then I have to adjust the neckline, collar & sleeves. Princess seems and 2 part sleeves are a headache. What I am not sure about is how to adjust the witch of the sleeve eg across the cap similar to the slash through the bodice or vertically down the sleeve . Do you have any tips? I really appreciate the work you put into your videos. Thank you.

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Hi! Thanks so much for your comments! If you reduce the length of the bodice by slashing through the armhole of the front and back and overlapping. This will shorten the armhole height (shoulder point to armhole base) so you are correct in assuming you will reduce the cap height by the same amount. This should bring your sleeve and bodice back into relation with each other. Just keep in mind that this kind of adjustment will also raise the bust, waist and hemline so you may need to do additional adjustments to bring those in alignment with your body. While it seems line this will work for your bust position, just check that your waist and hem will still be at the appropriate level.

[@judiavi]

Excellent explanation. Thank you so much :-)

[@shawneleach9139]

Love the T-square(s) tool!!

[@Luxxen101]

Absolutely the best explanation of armholes. I finally get it! Thank you!

[@nomulavenugopal3501]

Madum ur kind of explaination is so good i really go it, the fault can detect thank u madum

[@evelynkeane1055]

This tutorial was explained very well and most helpful thank you so much.

[@elizabethhamer2425]

Very helpful

[@mdjavedansari6390]

You teaching very deeply

[@barbz38]

Many thanks Alexandra. your videos are very informative

[@seestellysew8472]

This whole video was a “ah ha” moment for me. I have a small frame, but large arms, so I always have trouble when it comes to sleeves. I also wondered why the sleeves opening wasn’t the same in the front and the back. Now I know. Thank you very much. You’re an excellent teacher, you’re very thorough, I really appreciate that. Where are you located? Do you teach in person classes? I’m a full figured women who’s hard to fit, but I love sewing and making my own clothes. But I’d like to take my sewing to the next level, focusing on better fitting garments and I believe you could help me learn the skills I need.

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

HI Estelle, You're welcome! I'm in Canada. I have both in-person and online classes and you can learn more about those here: www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/

[@serifatutorials5970]

This was so helpful 😊. How can i measure my armhole depth correctly on my body?

[@karenbertram6433]

So helpful, thanks so much!

[@justme-fe2sf]

Fantastic videos

[@gemamendez1067]

Buenas noches No hablo ingles pero le entiendo La talla 4 y 6 se relaciona von la talla petite Mil gracias por sus conocimientos

[@elisabethgottl8295]

Just came across this video. Great information. My question is regarding a coat such as a trench coat. What measurement would be good to start with?

[@minervitanow]

Great tutorial! I would like to know what actually I need to do to have some [gap] ease around the armhole where measurements for the crossfront and crossback are. Than you!

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You can create gape in the armhole by transferring some of the bust dart (at the front) and the shoulder dart (at the back) to the armhole.

[@bevmcmullen8758]

Sorry Alexandra, maybe I missed something. The 1/2 inch ease at the armhole you mentioned...would that be 1/2 inch in the front and 1/2 inch at the back, or 1/2 an inch spread between the whole sleeve circumference? Excellent video as always and I’m just loving the course I bought from you recently (Drafting a knit bodice sloper). Truly excellent value for money. Thank you xx

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You need about 1/4" gape at the front and back armhole-making up a 1/2" total but this depends on your comfort level.

[@colettebaldwin5700]

Great tutorial! Really informative, and straight to the point. Thank you,

[@queenezinne8958]

plz ma'am, can u make a tutorial video of how to create a basic bodies sleaves

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You’ll find a full online course here www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/

[@kalpanatapkire4934]

Please help me to calculate the armhole length in the bodice with different bust sizes.

[@eleanorehamer7400]

Hi, I wish to get a block done by you. Is it possible?

[@judymagruder2268]

Do you have a book on this subject? I'd love to have one if you do.

[@barbaragibbs618]

Hi, Alexandra -- I'm trying to develop a bodice sloper for myself and am at the armhole/sleeve stage. This tutorial is very helpful, especially the quick estimate of what the circumference of an armhole should be. I'm curious, though, about the U-shaped gadget you've made to measure the width (?) of the armhole. When is the best time to use it, before or after the muslin is made? If before, how does one use the information it yields? Thanks very much!

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Barbara Gibbs use it as a guide and keep in mind that there is usually ease in the body girth which will make the measurement you take using this method larger in the garment than on your body. It tells you the minimum clearance you need for your arm.

[@09jariah]

Excellent ❤️

[@auntmayme8119]

Are there any special techniques for someone with a forward sloping shoulder and has scoliosis on one side? I’ve noticed my armhole in the back needs to be flatter than circular, and yet it has to cover the shoulder blade where the scoliosis occurs.

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Beth, no special techniques really. When you have asymmetries in the body, you are left to make asymmetrical adjustments. Try not to over-fit with these asymmetries, sometimes it calls attention to it rather than disguising it.

[@thefashioninstituteofsouth3379]

I love it

[@cheriberi934]

Does the Across Back and Across Front measurements request ease? If so, how much?

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Cheryl Hare yes at least 1/2”

[@lydiamena8482]

A link on how to prepare this block please

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/designed-to-fit-the-bodice-block

[@katejones9046]

PLEASE DON'T USE WHITE FABRIC ON A WHITE DRESS FORM. I can't see it very well on a 75" tv!