Fixing Back Armhole Gape on Set-In Armholes - SB-SR- Fitopedia

[@blairconger240]

I think creating the shoulder dart and extending the armhole is like having the magician explain the trick! I love this.

[@SewSewLive]

I’m loving all your comments Blair! And how much you’re enjoying this series. There’s so many little things we can do to adjust patterns.

[@mamasaidsew4843]

as a lover of sleeveless garments, I thank you from the bottom of my heart. I have struggled with dealing with this issue for so long. I do not always favor a shoulder dart, but thought that was really the only way to deal with it when there is no waist dart. I will definitely try easing it in when it is a small amount.

[@SewSewLive]

It’s a chronic issue for so many! I have some more armhole gape fixes for other armhole styles coming out all this month. And I have some other solutions we can try too!

[@esthersinger]

This is excellent Saremy, I am really impressed by the clarity of the explanations.

[@SewSewLive]

I’m so glad to hear that!

[@jords1979]

Exactly what I was looking for

[@SewSewLive]

Nice! 🙌🏼

[@SouthPointe-j4u]

I have watched many videos on this topic but your video was by the far the best. Thank you for providing such a clear explanation.

[@SewSewLive]

Wonderful! More Fitopedia is in the works.

[@patriciaingraldi4719]

Really easy to follow you with exact information. Thank you so much. These are things that throw sewers off. And I've been to fashion school and fitting seems to be the one things that is barely taught and one of the most important things to know to do. A little bit like doctors to go to medical school, and only get a very small amount of nutrition information in their education. You would think nutrition would be one of the essentials. But… 🤷🏼‍♀️.

[@SewSewLive]

So true! I did have to do a lot of fitting when I worked for companies, but it’s handled simply. And because it’s a generic fit (meaning it has to fit many people with the same measurements and those people still vary a lot) it wasn’t as strict. I think the home sewing world is a little over obsessed with fitting too. Meaning, they want EVERY wrinkle to be gone. When washing, weight fluctuations, under garments, and so much more can affect fit on the garment differently every day. I’m glad you found it useful! The series will continue soon! I’m Prepping for a show so I don’t have time to devote to Fitopedia. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@Khadija.B.]

Thanks a lot for these precious informations. Your video is just amazing ❤❤

[@SewSewLive]

Thanks for watching! I’m glad it’s helpful.

[@sewmytroublesaway]

Wow thanks! I have a shoulder dart in my patterns but am definitely going to try the gathering method. I haven't quite nailed the perfect shoulder dart length and often get the dart point sticking up off my back...maybe it's too long?

[@SewSewLive]

It does sound like it’s too long. Or you could try curving it when sewing it to conform to your shoulder a bit better. It’s okay to make the dart length what works for you. 2.5”-3” is the standard starting point-but your body dictates what you need.

[@sewmytroublesaway]

@@SewSewLive thank you!! I'll try both! Love this new series!

[@annethevenot461]

Excellent alteration for my prominent shoulder blades. Thank you!

[@SewSewLive]

Actually I have some better adjustments for shaping issues coming out throughout the month! This one is for a slight round adjustment -if that’s sufficient then awesome! But I’d they’re prominent I have some Round Back adjustments that might serve you better.

[@annethevenot461]

Great. Looking forward to that.@@SewSewLive

[@maryreinert4447]

Love this series ❤❤❤

[@SewSewLive]

Wonderful!

[@lynnshepard7485]

Very helpful tips!

[@SewSewLive]

Glad it was helpful!

[@annescanapico7168]

Oh I have this problem, so thank you so much

[@SewSewLive]

Happy to help!

[@Hausfrauenglueck]

Thank you very much!! Really great help!

[@SewSewLive]

Glad it helped!

[@onyinyeezeyi4667]

Thank you so much for this video. It's very timely for me. Could you tell me what minimum measurement (in full scale) you think it's worth dealing with a gaping back armhole? The gape I've pinned out in my block is 5/8" and wondering if this is just wearing ease or whether I should deal with it in the way you demonstrated in your video. I would appreciate your thoughts on this Thanks again for the excellent video

[@SewSewLive]

Thanks for watching! Do you feel the gape is due to the pattern being too flat for your back? If so, I’d add the dart and make the adjustment just like I do in the video. If your pattern has a waist dart, you can also try pivoting some of it in to the waist dart. And create a shoulder dart for the rest. To pivot, cut from the slash to the dart. Open the dart wider while closing your gape. If you have a small waist, you can put a lot of the gape into the dart. If your waist is flatter, I would only put a little of it in there. Try to identify what needs the shaping on your back to get rid of the gape. Good luck!

[@SewSewLive]

This is a great topic to make a quick video about so I’ll try to do that soon.

[@SewSewLive]

One last thing… if your gape is at the low end of the armhole (below the shoulders) I think pivoting to the dart can work. If it’s higher, create the shoulder dart).

[@onyinyeezeyi4667]

@@SewSewLive thank you for getting back to me. I'll have a good look in the mirror to see if I've got a curve in my upper back

[@tracyfrost]

Thank you

[@SewSewLive]

You're welcome!

[@glynwalton5202]

As an enthisuastic amateur I am a little confused so would appreciate some help. I understand the need for adjustment of the fabric to match the body but this seems to be done after the initial cutting of material. Is the pattern then amended for subsequent items of clothing or is it best to somehow fit the pattern to the body, make appropriate adjustments, then cut the fabric? Thanks.

[@jimmyeng663]

What they're showing is making a sample (don't make this in your final fabric), seeing an issue with the fit (back armhole gape), fixing it on the pattern and then you make the next sample/real garment. You can't add to the first sample because you don't have enough fabric in the sample to do these changes. You do this every time you make a pattern to know that it's correct.

[@SewSewLive]

There are some changes you can make to a garment after you’ve cut it out if you’ve detected a fit issue you want to solve- I’d choose the easing method on this one if you have some armhole gape and you can’t cut your back out again with a dart. But yes, sometimes people cut a sample first in a different fabric to check fitting before sewing their finished garment.

[@rosemaryandsage_]

If I already have a shoulder dart, does this make it easier? Should I just add additional intake to each side, re-draw the legs and true the dart again? Also @5:33 when you are adding the width of new dart intake to the shoulder tip, it looks like you are measuring from cutting line to cutting line vs seam line to seam line.

[@SewSewLive]

Hi! If you already have a shoulder dart, you can use it to help get rid of that armhole gape. Is the gape up high? Coming off the shoulder blade? I would play around with pinching the dart larger to see if it helps. I don’t have seam allowance on my neck or armhole on the small patterns so I am measuring on the seam line-sorry for the confusion! I know it’s hard to tell sometimes!

[@NhungVu-hz1ne]

Hello ms, i cant understand that easing adding ( add easy to front shoulder or back shoulder length?). plz help to explain me more. Is it add ease to back shoulder length and gather ease to march front shoulder length?

[@SewSewLive]

You need to pinch in the back shoulder to get rid of the armhole gape (with dart or gathers). Once you do this, your back shoulder will be smaller than the front shoulder. So you’ll need to make the back shoulder longer to match the front.

[@NhungVu-hz1ne]

​@@SewSewLive Thank u so much for explaining. i was confused when i read " ease to front " and watch you doing, i thought " ease to front " means adding more fabric to front shoulder.😅

[@SewSewLive]

@NhungVu-hz1ne Theres two ways to shape the back shoulder, one adds a dart and one adds gathers. The gathers you’d ease to the front shoulder. Happy sewing!

[@gladmorischannel2634]

❤

[@SewSewLive]

Thanks for watching!

[@lindakrol5376]

😊😊❤

[@SewSewLive]

🙂

[@JosieStev]

😊❤

[@SewSewLive]

🙂