Fitting the Junk E-Type Motor in my XKE

[@TRHOG]

PLEASE do a complete V-12 overhaul! Would love to see that!!!

[@mikeg5877]

"If your doing it... why not do it right" words to live by. Outstanding series sir

[@denstoneshorte2715]

Speaking as a 50 something year old Brit who used to work on this type of thing back in the day, I can honesty say that I've never seen finer work done, Well done to you!.....keep it up.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for the comment, very appreciated.

[@Mercmad]

Back in the late 60's my late father used a sign writing company to do a lot of work on his various trucks. The sign writer was young guy and drove a Series one E type. Dad had a new Mercedes and one day he was cruising at 100MPH when the sign writer came past us at full bore . I still remember the sound of that six wound right out as it came past...Glorious.

[@samrodian919]

So he was doing about 150 mph then!

[@28YorkshireRose12]

Four Speckled Hens and one dad, hmm, just the perfect balance for getting that job done. If there had been any more 'Hen' the combination would have been too heavy and the bolt would have jammed up as you pulled it out. . . . Dads are very useful to have around, I lost mine to heart failure eleven years ago, and I miss him so much. You never really appreciate them fully until they're not there any more - hold on to yours as long as you can.

[@ericmehserle7645]

Seating the chrome strip might be easier with a trick we used to use in the auto glass shop when installing VW bug glass which has the same type of rubber gasket surround. Take a length of cord (larger than string but smaller than cloths line) long enough to go the entire way around the gasket plus 12" on each end hanging out. Get the cord and the channels in the rubber where the chrome goes liberally coated with D&L type shop hand cleaner. Start at the mid point top of the rubber gasket and the mid point of the cord and push the cord down deep into the gasket channel. Work the cord in, all the way around to the bottom with the 12" extra hanging out at the center bottom. Do this to the other side of the car till both 12" pieces are hanging out at the center bottom. Now, position the chrome piece into the gasket as much as possible, finishing the non- corded channel as complete as possible. Then, applying pressure to the chrome strip, starting at the center bottom, start to pull one of the cords out of the gasket, sliding the chrome down into the gasket as you go. Keep working this all the way around to the top, then repeat with the other side. Wipe clean the gasket of any hand cleaner and polish the glass/chrome. Always worked like a charm for us!

[@6CylSuccessVideos]

You make it look easy. We know it’s not. But you make it fun, too! Great video.

[@royeady800]

Old Speckled Hen, you have gone way up in my estimations!

[@crumplezone1]

Speckled hen from the UK :)

[@countryboysteve]

Easier way to put the window rubber is to run a small rope Inside the molding as you pull the rope out it will fold up over the window been putting in windows for years this way

[@bigalalbig]

Paracord works a treat, as demonstrated in many wheeler dealer episodes.

[@JohnCarey1963Jag]

You made great progress in this installment. Lot's of patience needed to install the window chrome trim and the fuel tank. Looks like you are very close to getting this one running. Don't forget to video that day! I still look at mine once in a while to enjoy that thrill again and again.

[@bobferranti5222]

This project is turning into a masterpiece. You're doing fantastic work.

[@gazzafloss]

Richard, I owned a '70 Series 2 2+2 for 15years, from '78-'93 used as the second family vehicle for all that time, the only time it ever let us down was that blessed SU fuel pump in the rear rhs. Really like the way you're doing the resto, not perfection, but practical and "every day useable". An E type has that "special" iconic look.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for the comments, great to have you along Pamela.

[@2541968joey]

Have watched every video several times, you're doing a great job & the final results will be worth wild. On my '68 OTS with factory hardtop, just removed the Lexan rear window to reinstall a new window gasket. A big job & I had to also use "C" clamps to hold/glue the chrome into the rubber strip. But my "C" clamps had to go from inside the car around the C pillar so I could have tension on both sides of the window holding the chrome pieces in place. Everything you've done on your E Type, in 35 years of my ownership I've also "been there". Keep the detailed videos coming.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Oh wow, I dread that hardtop chrome.

[@werewally3156]

That's not junk, that's a thing of beauty.

[@marcusd2380]

Mark evans in the uk did a wonderful series called an e type is reborn great video series for tv. Great tips and talks with folk involved with Jaguars back in the day if my memory serves me right

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Yes Mark is great. A light-hearted series in real working shops-my kind of video!

[@adrianarmstrong801]

Nice work and all washed down with Old Speckled Hen, good old British beer Mmmm.

[@Wolfie387]

Absolutely magnificent, what a beautiful transformation. 👍

[@marcelpacheco7878]

Love this build. Much like I would do it if I had the skills. You own my dream car since I was 16 years old in 1966. Cheers! Enjoy the blessings.

[@MreViewer]

Great work Richard, loving the rebuild. BTW, sitting here watching the clip and drinking a can of Old Speckled Hen!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Oh the timing!

[@johndavey72]

Hi Richard. Well first things first! Think you must have British descendents , the "old speckled hen" quintessentially English old boy! The retainers that hold on the badges are called thimble clips. I find regarding the rear (and front) windscreen finishers that if you lubricate the rubbers well with soap or washing liquid the finishers tend to drop into the rubber better. If you leave the rubber dry then the finishers tend to "stick" or "grab" . There is no doubt that patience is the virtue however you tackle the job. Also noticed the car is sitting on Pirelli's. Look forward to your next instalment. Cheers or "Toodle Pip" !

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

John thanks for watching. Eagle eye on those Pirellis, I love them

[@alexyo3927]

You did a great job fixing this old girl up.

[@jakespeed63]

XKE's are one of my top dream cars. Loving this project. Thanks for sharing.

[@cratecruncher6687]

I followed the factory service manual on removing the reaction plate. It said to take out two of the mounting bolts and pound "silver steel" rods into the holes to hold tension on the torsion bars. I like your method a lot better!

[@Mercmad]

Silver steel is what we called Cold Rolled center less ground tool steel bar ,used for making stuff. Because of the finishing process used for making it ,it came with a shiny surface .There isn't any silver in it.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Micheal I've done that before with the rods. It usually destroys the threads on the original bolts, but is doable. Getting the reaction plate out with the bracket, receiving the rear end of the torsion bars and the engine in place is a fight.

[@johnnorth9355]

And that ladies and gentlemen is how Richard Michael Owen does that. Brilliant.

[@stevewaclo167]

“Kinda grungy, but it’s good enough for me.” Sounds like my ‘87 Alfa Quadrifoglio 😀 watched all episodes and consider it time well spent. Kudos!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks Steve that Quadrifoglio injection is something else!

[@ronmcgregor9324]

excellent video content... plenty of good tips and no BS drama.. keep the channel going mate.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Great to have you along Ron. I will keep this up.

[@huntersbar]

1:48 in and I'm checking comments for Old Speckled Hen references...

[@rossilake218]

When working on Jag’s, one needs a pint or two.

[@rickhavern2927]

If you like Old Speckled Hen, you'll love Old Crafty Hen. It's like OSH's big brother, more flavour and stronger. I live in a village eight miles from the brewery in Bury St Edmunds. Cheers!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I will have to find some for the next video?!

[@malcolmnicholls2893]

Fantastic looking car in a great colour. One can't put too much cavity protection in these. Shame Jag didn't bother! I think putting glass in is always a bit of a sod. A job well done, (UK)

[@marcryvon]

Good job Richard. On my life long dream car. Can't wait to hear it at her first start. Unique sound.

[@carl_marks1626]

There’s a video of the engine being run in.

[@toreshammerecelt861]

Richard is excellent!

[@Adibarum]

Hey Richard another really excellent episode...im looking forward to seeing your Jaguar E Type all come together

[@markxl]

Decent beer too - good job.

[@tonygriffiths2485]

Looking forward to seeing that beautiful car run. Gorgeous E Type.

[@raincoast2396]

Can't wait to see you cruizin around the Peninsula.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I hope to daily drive! Thanks for watching.

[@stevelong6358]

Nice job richard. WOW that fuel tank..

[@Wolfie387]

Looking forward to seeing the refurbished XKE fire up with the beautiful (top to bottom) rebuilt Junk E-Type engine. Looking fantastic, keep up the good work..and enjoy the Speckled Hen Pale Ale. 🍻

[@dee106ful]

Guys if you are drinking British ale make sure you buy it in a bottle rather than a can----the taste is much better. O.S. HEN is great cold try its sister Golden Hen

[@rdsledge]

Nice ride! Love the XKE’s

[@awesomusmaximus3766]

Very nicely done

[@corypride]

Hi Rich. I enjoy your pointers about taking care not to lose bolts and sockets and every other little thing underneath whatever you are trying to reinstall. We have all been there--many times! Unfortunately, there is a problem. If this is the same car you showed in your last video it has dents on the underside of the bonnet. I'm afraid I cannot allow you to mount it next to that beautiful engine until those dents have been repaired...

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Cory yeah I might try to make a new bonnet at some point-it really is that bad.

[@chrischapman819]

When fitting glass 1st put the glass into two sides of the seal then put some rope in the channel on the other two sides where the glass is going to go. then as you push the glass into place pull the rope which will lift the outer of the rubber seal to the outside of the glass. This will make the installation so easy.

[@steveavis4642]

The tank looks amazing. Nice work! You need to stop referring to the motor as junk, it's a work of art! I have owned 2 jaguar, 2 mgbs, 1 triumph tr6. What I have done regarding the trim around the back window, if it's not sticking. I have used urethane with the primer. Apply as you would a modern windshield. Use either paint stirrers or something that will evenly distribute the clamping force, and like you did, clamp it up. I would get any defects out of the window trim first. I've been in the business for 45 years, and learned a couple tricks along the way. Good luck!! Nice work.

[@sparkgsparks1736]

Another great video Richard ~ she’s looking great ...Perhaps you should try some bottles of London Pride might help with the chrome trim! Thanks again for sharing this

[@martentrudeau6948]

It may be grungy to you but your XKE looks fantastic to me, congratulations.

[@TIMMEH19991]

hahaha! I was drinking a pint of Old Speckled Hen when I was watching this! Nearly sprayed beer all over my laptop I was so surprised!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

The second viewer to have impeccable timing. Brilliant!

[@davefoster7770]

Ooooh! Speckled Hen. Nice.

[@geraldswain3259]

Incredibly advanced design and engineering for a 50S/60 S motor car , offered at an incredibly low price .

[@marcryvon]

Yes but then. Today they go for crazy prices, now out of reach for most enthousiasts. Damn Americans with their Trailer queens, over restored, never driving them as they were meant to. They buy them only as an investment. And show them at say, Amelia Island. Grrrrr. Same with the Tiger we can see just outside. Two of my dream cars. Sad.

[@katherinetemple8097]

Greene king beer good stuff! Made in my home town, Bury St Edmunds!

[@patrickh7368]

fabulous video, nice to see cars like this come back to life, just noticed when you stripped down the suspension, the rubber gaiter on the track rod end was not fully over the forged part, maybe the clip has gone....?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Yeah the tie/track rods needs work and adjustment.

[@jfhaia]

UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!

[@adrianryan1975]

We saw the tank. Looks good

[@Gunstacks]

Wonderful. Thank you. Great videos.

[@n1352-m1i]

nice work ... and nice to see I'm not the only one struggling with windshield rubber and strips... I did my friend's 64' coupe the same way from the bottom with the torsion bars on, a little difference was I used a tool to set the suspension for zero load, made of strong turnbuckles (letting them go too low would damage the rubber of the balls joints). An other topic: he has the same gearbox (4 synchro Jaguar non OD with rhs speedo outlet) and needs the rear piece (which holds the single post for the spring, and the oil pump) : any chance you would know where to source a decent used one ? thank you, and keep it on the road !

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Sorry I don't have that rear trans housing. Just note that the LWB cars use a longer rear housing.

[@n1352-m1i]

thank you for your reply. The Jag gearbox for non OD SWB are kind of rare to come by it seems (unlike the older 3 synch Moss ones) mostly on S2s (also on 420/420G/mk10 possibly though most had OD), but unfortunately my friend is not very tall, and had to make up for it with a setup allowing him to get the gear lever 1"1/2 rearward using that specific gearbox...

[@MichaudDaniel]

It's going well, can't wait to see that Jag eating some Km.

[@mk3interstate]

good choice of beer!!

[@EliteRock]

With that motor using all the original pistons/bores, the un-reground crank, hence with absolutely no 'high spots' anywhere, and with the care taken reconditioning them, I have a feeling it's going to be lovely, smooth, free-spinning thing. ETA >> That's what like about this project - almost all professional restorers/rebuilders (and most DIY'ers for that matter) would have used new parts everywhere, it's simply less man-hours that way, but I'm willing to bet this motor will end up being much sweeter than if it had been rebuilt that way.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for the feedback, At some point it might need hardened valve seats, but I am going to give the originals a chance :)

[@tomrichardson4375]

+1 for Old Speckled Hen cans...

[@frankdeegan8974]

Your gas tank bolts, use some fine sewing thread and tie the bolts in place till it is time to tighten them down your thread will break and you can remove the thread if you choose. I do this to gaskets that do not want to stay in place, the thread is so small it will never comprise the gasket seal and it may save you from a gasket that will have to be redone.

[@ianwilson4666]

Good choice of beer .

[@paulhunter123]

real ale not beer

[@ianwilson4666]

@@paulhunter123 Its actually beer, so shut up .

[@paulhunter123]

no its bitter not beer - googel it

[@ianwilson4666]

@@paulhunter123 Bitter is beer so is Ale, and its google, now maybe, shut up .

[@MrTopgearnerd]

Great job! Love these vids, Greetings from Sweden. PS. I'd recommend som higher quality fuelfilters from ex MANN Filters, thery're no much more expensive..

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Great idea on the filters. I suspect this one is going to fill let's see.

[@TheTubeTube2]

.Beautiful!

[@clarkkent2913]

I like that project. What about the insulation parts in the tank cavity? Is there no danger that they will absorb water (and cause rust)? I would prefer some water-repellent foam.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

What I didn't show on camera was a considerable amount of time spraying water over the rear lights to make sure water did not get in. I like your foam idea for sure. Thanks for watching.

[@LeviHeizer]

It looks like you need pressure on the bottom of the rear glass to get the chrome to fit properly, like the window is too low in the frame. Also how are the parts held together at the end? Installing that part might pull it together properly.

[@carbidegrd1]

the most beautiful car ever made

[@MrDejast]

I never release the tension on the bars, just remove the upper nut& bolt then the nut on the lower bolt. drive the bolt back just slightly to remove the plate. On install, drive a drift into the upper hole, then tap in the lower bolt an tighten, install upper bolt, done without touching anything else.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Yes I have done it this way too, I always ended up slightly stressing the hardware though

[@TheMightyThim]

Very fun to watch your videos! keeps my motivation up on my own E-type project as well. I'm going to install the rear hatch and windw this summer so nice to get some tips from you. could you maybe film a little around the inspection holes for the IRS in your next vid? My car had the entire top over the IRS cut out.. so I welded it so there are no inspection holes from above anymore. I do have those behinde the rear seat though (2+2). Maybe you could tell me if those holes are more than just for insection? maybe handbreak adjustment? Thanks for a great vid.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

This 1967 FHC has no holes. I have a 1964 DHC in the shop with a somewhat triangular hole in the trunk to get to the brake calipers.

[@cratecruncher6687]

My 64FHC has not a hole so down the IRS must go.

[@rotrby]

I think the problem with your back chrome may be from slight misalignment of chrome piece. Have you tried adjusting the vertical location of one end up or down on the window by 1-2 cm tucking in the chrome piece working around from one side to the other. I think it make help with the odd corners.

[@marcusd2380]

The boy in the uk car plant used to use rope to pull back the rubber to get the glass to fit in

[@apassionfortangling3671]

Is the hydraulic pipe to the slave cylinder supposed to connect underneath with the bleed nipple on the top?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I think it's the odd design of the slave cylinder, I know it would seem that the bleed screw is on the wrong side.

[@apassionfortangling3671]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Well if you have trouble with the clutch you know where to look 😉 Loving your channel 👍

[@richvandervoort2950]

Where did you get the ball joint tool? I have a similar tool, but it is tie rod end size. I have not seen this larger size before.

[@tinymonster9762]

That engine looks like half a Merlin.

[@regsparkes6507]

Great to watch this 'cat' come back to life. afterall, cat's are supposed to have nine lives, aren't they?

[@caseytailfly]

I’m about to take the motor out of mine. It’s my own junk E-type motor! Would it be better to disconnect the shock first before releasing the ball joint? Seems hard on the shock to over-extend it like that.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I disconnect the tie-rod, upper ball, sway bar, then jack it up to remove the shock, it can take the tension.

[@caseytailfly]

Good to know, thanks! I'll be sure to call you and your dad when I get myself in deep trouble ;)

[@aaronkoch3273]

Is it possible you have the slave feed and bleeds in the wrong spot? How do you bleed the clutch when the bleeder is on the bottom?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

That County slave is made that way. I will have to feed the fluid from the bottom with a syringe.

[@TumzDK]

7:26 bleed nipple pointing down???

[@garymcaleer6112]

Am I missing something here? I don't understand your title, Richard. I hope you mean that it needs a rebuild. There's nothing "junk" about the E-type motor. Having owned two '67 2+2 automatics: early (with glass), and late (without) my '67 E-types with a twin-cam, aluminum head, triple-carb, straight-six hemi, with independent rear suspension, 260 horses, having speeds in excess of 150 mph (on a hill) with torsion bar stability, and produced 20+ mpg, that car blew the doors off of 80's mustangs, camaros and firebirds. The longer wheelbase also made it a good highway ride. Not to mention the most beautiful sculpture on wheels according to Enzo Ferrari.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I did a series last year on the rebuild of this engine which was long-seized and nicknamed the junk motor. You can look it up 'My Junk E-Type Motor'.

[@garymcaleer6112]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Thanks for the explanation. That's what I get for coming to class late. ☺

[@paulsutton5896]

I am surprised at how small the petrol tank looks. Are E-types renowned for small capacity petrol tanks?

[@synkraut9633]

haha mouse condoms, excellent!

[@lisaburnett3368]

The times l have done this. I found a little washing liquid helps in doing this.

[@ShevillMathers]

The rope trick is the way the pro’s use did it with my Mark 2 1967, yes it is Mark 2, not Mark II, as many write it.👌🤗🇦🇺

[@hrogers9325]

It's not a junk etype engine now.

[@xmoroseguyx]

Washing up liquid is a good lubricant on rubber seals

[@glennrogers6650]

Hello there, I have a 1966 Jaguar S Type 3.8LThe reversing light does not work, and its a fault with the switch on top of the gear box.Can you get to the switch from inside the car or under the car.What is the best way please.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

You need access to the top of the box. Not sure but I would check to see what the S-Type transmission cover looks like.

[@kevinchamberlain7928]

That molegrip made me flinch!! Don't do that again!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

molegrip?

[@kevinchamberlain7928]

@@RichardMichaelOwen It's what we in UK call that thing you used on the knuckle splitting tool, the spring loaded pliers type dealio! Good for marring nuts and bolts! I know you wouldn't put it anywhere near your engine though...

[@vrlesqhr7494]

Why You don't trust the Aluminum engine hanging ears and use the steel ones instead ? Risk or esthetics ?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

The later XJ6-style are safer and easier to use

[@dannylee778]

Tip re fuel tank....... ensure any adjustments to bumper and rear light on that side of the car are done first....... otherwise it’s a tank back out job!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Very good point. I also did a water test to ensure the LHR tail light was tight and replaced the bumper rubber.

[@andy1056]

Sorry, but after all of that work, I couldn’t call it the “junk” E-type engine anymore. That thing is beautiful.

[@weaton25]

I am with you there an engine is only junk if it is badly cracked or broken if its just worn them it can be fixed and that is all down to how much money you can or want to spend on new parts and machining .

[@joanbrown9376]

Interesting that the Canadian pronunciation of the glass brand name (10.06) ‘Tri-plex’ is more logical - offering a nod to the lamination of their windscreen/shield products. In the UK we say ‘Trip-lex’ . Hope this helps with any conversations you may have with junk-yard dawgs this side of the pond…….

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Anther user said it should be triple-x

[@EldarKinSlayer]

Is that a Tiger or Alpine in the driveway?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Alpine, the carbs were assembled all wrong and my dad got them right.

[@EldarKinSlayer]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Wonderful little car, my mom bought a Series 1 Tiger new in 1966 when I was 5, I learned to drive in that Tiger. English Cars forever!

[@adrianryan1975]

I would have tried to fit the chrome before the seal goes in

[@998basher]

The glass is made by Triple X not tri plex hence the 3 X's on the glass

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

DOH! Thanks for the correction.

[@998basher]

Nice car tho Fella!

[@flixflax99]

At the drain (where the hollow screw goes in) which thread is in there? Does anybody know that? Cause if it is the same as in the series 3 e type, i definetly want to swap mine also for this banjo/hollow screw system.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Hi thanks for watching, do you mean the carb overflow drains?

[@flixflax99]

@@RichardMichaelOwen I mean the main (aspiration) fuellineconnector to the fueltankcap/fueltanklid.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

@@flixflax99 so the fitting at the top of the suction pipe, I can look tonight

[@flixflax99]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Thank you so much!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

@@flixflax99 The Banjo bolt is 5/8-18UNF same as the HD8 Carb float lid.

[@vanpenguin22]

Little E Type / Hollywood trivia:In what 1980 action comedy did English actress/ model Twiggy appear driving an E Type Roadster?

[@markb3146]

For the love of God, don't use silicon to seal, use Butyl rubber mastic.......I hate silicon, it makes paint repellent to any repairs in the future. Just curious, why didn't you use the coated wire method to fit the glass?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I am not a window installer that's for sure. Butyl rubber mastic never used it before, does it just wrap around the flange? I heard that the rope/seal trick doesn't work with as easy with the chrome-strip seals, so I did it this way.

[@markb3146]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Butyl rubber mastic is a window seal compound ( www.proformproducts.com/en/products/sealers/glass-repairs/butyl-glass-sealer )that is used between the body and the seal and the the window and the seal.. It never really sets and moves with the body of the car. for the coated wire or rope install ... > place the rubber on the window, push the rope into the groove the window will eventually will sit in, make sure the ends cross over by at least 30cm ..... place the glass over the opening and press firmly. slowly pull the rope upwards and slightly back on itself.. this should pull the rubber out and ease it over the window... continue all the way around the window.... here is a good example video kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6fGe5KiisSJprM

[@drewscherz2476]

These clamps do a great job of holding down chrome trim while you fit the seal lip over the chrome: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MQX4T6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They also hold it down while the glue dries.

[@pauloconnor7951]

How much $$ does Dad charge you ? :) "If it's worth doing it's worth over doing". You'll feel good about it ! Was the speckled Hen to add to Dad's weight ?? . Looked like two were missing !!

[@ChipsChallenge95]

No drama

[@apflewis]

Is it time to stop calling it a 'Junk' E-Type motor? :)

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

It's a nickname now :)