Fix Those "Jumpy" K-Line Diesels! - Fast, Cheap Repair For MP15, ALCO FA, S2 Switchers

[@danielwhite1126]

Mike I always enjoy watching your videos. Please keep them coming-50 year modeler still running all 027 trains. I can8t afford the new stuff and the classic are always the best.Keep the videos coming ALL THE BEST DAN

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

That's the plan! Thanks for watching!

[@TwistedMacGyversTrains]

This has been a plague for K-Line engines for years. What an ingenious fix for this issue. Another fantastic video!!😊

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks!!

[@ronalddevine9587]

Very clever fix. Bravo

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thank you!

[@tableseven8133]

Good idea Mike. To help you or others along this line. Whenever you remove a screw from a plastic and some times other construction you want to find the same thread when you put it back in. So you put it in and turn back until you feel it click into the thread and then screw it in. This is problematic even more so with a screw and hole that you can't get a nice straight angle on. I have found with the K-line and others of that same style of motor in the truck set, the solution is to have a thin enough screw driver, with strong magnet is best, and it will go between the truck facade to get a better straight line to the screw hole. The Alco truck is tight in that area but the Alco's have different mounting holes that are easier to get to. Running a screw into a hole without getting the right thread in that hole will either crack the mounting stud, or eventually drill it out from to many cut thread in that hole. A fine machine thread into a metal part or a nut is much more forgiving or almost impossible to add a new thread on those.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks for the tip!

[@RolandForest]

Just made a similar repair on an old switcher. Wish I saw your video first. Good channel

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks!!

[@TomzTrainzandAccessories]

Excellent tutorial Mike! Time shouldn’t matter, because when you rush things under time constraints, it’s easy to overlook something, and then you wind up having to do it possibly from the beginning again. Also, what’s the rush? That takes some of the fun away when you’re working on something. Yes, this type of fix is not just a simple and quick fix, but it’s a fantastic fix. It’s an upgrade that you figured out how to do on an older K Line locomotive that will help a lot of people out there. Great job!!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!

[@DRCRailroard]

Thanks for the tip, Mike. I have several of the MP-15's that seem to jump the rails at turnouts for no aparent reason. However, with my experience as an electrician I learned a long time ago to bite the bullet and would have removed the circuit board to get to the truck retaining clip. Otherwise, you'll realize too late just how bad of an idea it was to take the shortcut. It always seems to take longer in the end while simultaneously elevating your blood pressure. However I have to give you credit for pulling it off without losing your cool. Nice job.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

I had already done one MP15 and it went smoothly,. This time not so much!

[@DRCRailroard]

@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks That's funny, Mike. That sounds about right for model railroading though. Nevertheless you did a fine job keeping your cool. Untill next time just like Roy. Happy rails to you.

[@ericchambers9023]

Did this fix on two KCC MP15 engines. On those, only two screws hold the circuit board in place, so easy to move out of the way to get to the e-clip. Also added a small toggle switch to select between parallel and series operation of the motors. Comes from the factory wired in parallel, but they are way too fast for that, they run much better, and at slower speeds in series operation.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

The Iraqi Freedom MP15 I was working on has a Series/parallel switch pre-wired from the factory. I counted 10 screws/bolts to remove the board on mine.

[@bernardconeghen]

thanks for the info was having issues with my older williams GG1 it has what your doing with the truck but I think with age what was needed was spreading out the spring a little more big difference thanks

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Happy to help!

[@waynecasey6375]

😂 that was great Mike, awesome tips and I totally feel your pain about your hand cramps!! thank you and please keep them coming!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks for watching and for the feedback!

[@kevinmeyer6677]

Mike I just got a Lionel postwar 628 and was having a similar problem mostly going through O27 turnouts. I took the shell off and took out the springs on the fingers that come up through the body to hold the motor truck to the frame and now it handles the turnsouts great unless the engine is flying. Have you ever heard of this issue before? Thanks. I am only a few weeks into the train world after receiving a 1953 postwar set that sat in a basement for more than 30 years. I think I have watched 75% of your videos already and because of what I learned here I have been able to get my late grandfather’s trains rolling again.

[@nickdonner6330]

I first ran my Kenncott mp15 on fastrack and i was amazed at the speed and power! Then I put it on tubular track, and was pretty quickly disappointed when it started jumping the switches. This video is perfect for me and I can’t wait to try it!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

I'm glad you found it useful!

[@nicholasstanziola]

Interesting! We've been running these locomotives on tubular track for years and have never experienced this problem, but I can definitely see how it could happen. This is a slick fix, not unlike the spring and cup washer found on other Lionel equipment. Nice work, and thanks.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks for watching!

[@chiconian49]

I fixed it in under five minutes. My K-line Alco FA's were constantly derailing on curves. I added weight to the front of the unit on top of the frame. That did not work. So, i glued a piece of automobile tire weight to the front coupler arm, under the frame, out of sight, problem solved.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks for the tip!

[@mypugsdad5366]

My Santa Fe does that all the time. Now I can fix it. Mine is a warbonnet type but from day one it jumps the track. Other than that great loco. Now I can fix it!!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

I don't know why Kline never made this fix.

[@wayneantoniazzi2706]

Great tutorial on those K-Line Alcos! I don't own any myself but if I ever DO I'll certainly keep this in mind. OK, you were there and I wasn't but personally I'd take the time and remove the circuit board just to make removal and re-installation of the truck e-clip easier on myself. I've found on some things not removing some "in-the-way" articles to try and save time in the end doesn't really save time at all and can add to the frustration level. But as I said it's your video so I won't back-seat drive on this one and say you're wrong. In the end it's whatever works.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

I figured it was about the same either way. And maybe I'd get lucky on the horseshoe clip. The first MP15 I did was easier.

[@waynecasey6375]

Hey Mike, not sure if I am replying the right way… But it is the front pilot truck that knocks it off the track on that 2026… After a bend… the truck stays in the direction at the bend was… then crunch/crash time lol

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Make sure there's nothing binding the truck.

[@chrisresor1893]

Thanx Mike! Don't own any K-Line pieces but still enjoyable and informative!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks!!

[@jjsgarage3634]

I would take a Dremel tool and just grind down the chassis till the drive wheels clear. Older hands will have a hell of a time with your fix. It still a solution to the issue.

[@huntercoleman460]

Great tutorial Mike.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks!!!

[@donaldwiller9238]

Great information 👍

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thank you!

[@kensbackshop6399]

Awesome idea i have 3 of them with the same problem,,,,were did you get the springs and washers from,,,thank you

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

In the video the spring came from Menards and the washer was in my parts bin. There are links to similar items in the description.

[@OldLow1361]

Just fixed my engines today, been messing with my trailing alco too

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Excellent!

[@angeloavanti2538]

Thanks. You done good. I will use this fix.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Happy to help!

[@plunkervillerr1529]

Timing this is taking all the joy out of the hobby.

[@scpvrr]

Thanks Mike. I have 6 candidate locos for this repair. I saw nothing wrong with your time estimate. 😂 It wasn’t a 10 minute estimate that turned into 4 hours.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks 👍

[@waynecasey6375]

Last night while running my 2026 Lionell steamer I was having a similar issue after the bends on the O27 track, this gives me some ideas and what to look at on that old girl…thanks!!🧐🧐

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Is it the pilot trucks or the drivers?

[@waynecasey6375]

It is the front pilot truck that wants to stay in the bend position, even though it’s out of the bend…. If that makes sense, it wants to stay turned…

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Check the attachment rod/post/screw that holds the pilot truck in place. Sometimes there can be some binding between that post and the truck frame.@@waynecasey6375

[@waynecasey6375]

Thanks for the help Mike I’ll check that out and let you know what I find. Appreciate the advise !!

[@paulbervid1610]

Great video

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@lloyd2032]

Thanks! That is a great idea

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lloyd2032]

And, BTW, I have applied it to two MP-15s and it helps! Thanks again

[@cameroneverhart6443]

Does the MP-15 have a working smoke unit to them? I know they're diesel but it looks like smoke stacks on top so I'm wondering if it works with smoke fluid?

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

No. There are smoking diesel models but they are generally high-end models ($300+).

[@lloyd2032]

Mike, I have another problem with a new MP-15 I bought. My old one, a KCC 906 works in 3-postion mode and forward only mode. Of course, as the instructions warn, if you leave it off for so long, the train will start in forward even though that was the last direction it was running. A new MP-15 I got (Norfolk-Southern) remembers the last direction, but in forward-only mode, it defaults to running backwards. I can use 3-pos mode to stop it after post-reverse neutral, and flip to forward-mode and it will run forward, until it's off for a bit of time and then it runs only backwards. Any ideas? I did use your suggestion from this video to just run the engine backwards, but I think that looks bad.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Am I correct that you are saying that the NS engine defaults to "backwards: instead of "forward"? And you want it to default to "forward"? If I understand correctly, the answer is to trace the leads from the reverse unit to the motors. On each motor, reverse the two wires, changing the polarity of the current to the DC motors.

[@lloyd2032]

@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks If I had to replace a wire in this model what gauge wire would I use ? 22? 24? maybe?

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

@@lloyd2032 As close as possible to the wire you are replacing. If unsure, look at the other wires as a guide.

[@RAK402]

Outstanding!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thank you kindly!

[@randyrussell4331]

Don't feel bad mine do the same thing😊😮

[@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars]

Good tip

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Happy to help

[@jims6323]

Who cares how long it takes, as long as nothing gets busted and it still runs when your done! It's always better not to try sketchy short cuts that actually cost more time, in the long run!

[@blakehoffman6233]

Anyone have a fix for the k-line power chief 120v controller? All mine does is flash red.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

That means there's a short circuit somewhere. The breaker on these is VERY sensitive and it could even be a problem that other transformers ignore.

[@jamesyohnka4779]

Yes those horse shoe clips are a pain

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

✔️

[@rickferguson943]

Why would you worry about how long it takes to fix a design problem,a fix is the most important part

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

👍

[@almargiotta484]

GOOD VIDEO, THERE IS A TOOL FOR INSTALLING THOSE CLIPS, WOULD HAVE MADE YOUR LIFE EASIER.

[@brandongaines1731]

I keep waiting for someone to invent a rathet-action 90-degree screwdriver.... If anyone out there has the know-how and the means to do so, then I 100% commend the project to you :-)

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

That could be useful, assuming that the ratchet head is small enough to clear the locomotive truck

[@rickferguson943]

Take the board off

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Probably next time.

[@genemanno1533]

Those type engines with plastic trucks and motors inside the truck are fragile with plastic pins for the gears that once they break turns the whole engine to junk. One would be smart to avoid this type engine in the interest of any longevity. Lionel’s low of low in quality. Aside from that the fix is a logical solution.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

My "newest" K-Line diesel is 15+ years old, so they're doing okay in the longevity department.

[@inscoredbz]

Do you know how to wire these motors in series to slow that 800mph top speed down? I have two and they are both rockers.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

I know in theory. I have never done it, though.