Fixing my GT500 S/C Low Vacuum By-pass and the Alternator Died... Again

[@carlmazziotti221]

Sorry for the frustrating issues with the car. At least it gives you new content to create.

[@AllThingsBoost]

You aren't wrong... sent all the details I now understand to my tuner and he has a few ideas to try on the tune side of things, so hopefully it gets sorted out soon enough.

[@Twobarpsi]

Good job fixing that bypass actuator. Can't wait for your 60-130 test. Car sounds so good chopping!

[@Twobarpsi]

I think your header was glowing red because it was injecting gas at the wrong time and pumping it through the header. Do you have any explanation for what happened simply by changing the alternator and fixing the bypass valve? Did it have to do with disconnecting the battery?

[@AllThingsBoost]

I was talking with my tuner after this and he thinks that the timing is off at idle before the car adjust anything by doing the KAM reset. Which makes sense. This issue has been with me since the beginning, and when we did the initial data log, we loaded the new tune in hot, which meant the car learned what to do but it was never adjusted in the tune, so it masked it as an issue. I have another live session setup soon to see if we can figure out what's off. But yeah, likely timing with the cams is shoving some fuel down the exhaust like you said, which explains all the crackles and pops

[@Twobarpsi]

@@AllThingsBoost good to know! Thanks 👍

[@carscoffee949]

I’m going through this exact issue right now. I did the EGR delete line going to the headers and plugged it off. Have a feeling that the EGR sensor is having some communication issues with the ECU and throwing off timing.

[@AllThingsBoost]

Interesting, I added the EGR back because now days they legally need to be there, and was told if they are missing it can effect fueling. But for me it was present both with and without, very irritating issue, makes me dread having to go through the relearn when it is acting so sketchy

[@bozeeez1]

I think its the small filter breather on driver side

[@AllThingsBoost]

Unfortunately it's not. I tested that theory a while back, I removed it and had the factory style line the runs to the intake there, same issue still, so I put the breather back on.

[@HardinRacingHPS]

what are the symptoms of a bad bypass actuator. i have a 2010 with a 2.3 tvs with a 2.4 pulley and im only seeing 14 psi :(

[@AllThingsBoost]

Not making the correct psi. You can check by taking a vacuum pump ( manual brake bleeder type) or removing the elbow, closing it by hand, and putting your finger over the vacuum port. It should stay in position. If it opens back up it may have a vacuum leak on the line leading to it or a ruptured bladder. If it is holding properly, you should remove the blower, replace the blower to manifold gasket while you're there, and check that the bypass is able to close all the way. There is some adjustability in the bypass mounting bolts that you may need to loosen and play with to get it to seal properly when actuated. Best of luck and hope that you find your issue.