Fixing My Prusa MINI Thermistor by Stealing It

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thanks again to Skillshare for sponsoring this episode! The first 1000 people to use my link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/3dprintingnerd12201

[@lordkahtu96]

Don't forget to PID that thing!!!

[@safran4588]

Buy a new Thermistor? Nahhh just gonna salvage it from the other, perfectly fine working printer :)).

[@flexplexico480]

LOL that’s what I thought! Thermistors are like - 2 bucks?

[@jirkasvitil2762]

@@flexplexico480 maybe from Průša, but every where else it is 4 Times less

[@oleurgast730]

@@flexplexico480 But also there are many thermistor types. As editing Prusa Mini firmware is not easy, esp. as Prusa uses "custom type" for the thermistor, you might have to try a lot of thermistors to get one with the right temperature/resistance curve - or measure the new thermistor and make your own custom temperature and put it into the firmware. Even PID-tuning is a problem with the mini - as it does not store in EEPROM. Tinkering on a Mini is much more "hardcore" than on other printers. Actually buing replacement part from Prusa is the simpliest way (6 bucks + shipping + tax) - but with Prusa being in Europe and Joel in the US, its a way not fast (esp. around x-mas) and not cheap in shipping. Also Joel might simply want to wait ordering the replacement thermistor until the new SuperPinda is available again to spare costs on shipping. So resourcing the correct thermistor from a mk2 is not a bad idea if he does need the mk2 for some time. He might even use an other thermistor type on the mk2, as the firmware of the mk2 is much more easy to change than on the Mini (and as you have to make the changes again after every firmwareupdate, the Mini with its often updated firmware is not ideal for modifications). Actually I have multiple Mini´s (one original, some clones) and changed feeders (diferent types with different eSteps), some hotends with silicone socks, some without, diferent part cooling mods and different heatbreaks. I made different custom firmware for them all, to set correct eSteps and PID on them, but they all got original Prusa thermistors - making custom temperature tables for the printers is to much efford in my opinion. But as I live in Europe, getting original Prusa parts is much more easy than in US.

[@flexplexico480]

@@oleurgast730 Does Prusa say that the mini thermistor is compatible with the MK2? I’m hazarding a guess that they are just using the highly ubiquitous NTC bulb thermistors - there really is no reason not to use those on the bed, unless you like putting your customers through pain.

[@Toxicity1987]

@@oleurgast730 Prusa uses the same common NTC 3950 100k Thermistors like everybody else. Even the Hotend Thermistor is the same, just that it is encapsulated in that metal tube.

[@norsevikingsir4932]

Should've got IFixIt to sponsor the video

[@gerardvandermeeren7195]

Just bought myself a Creality CR10S Pro V2 because all i see on youtube is the most smoothest and flawlesly unboxing and imediately perfect working 3D printer without any problems that makes the most reliable and perfect prints you can imagine. I want to install the printer so perfect, read the manual before from A to Z and backwards so that i'm not going to make any mistakes, then looked for another dozen unboxing and installing tips on KZbin and finally after 2 days i managed to install my printer without a problem in no time. But then.................I turned it on and................... you guess; ...... trouble started; The printer went down on the bed and made a really ignorant noise like metall that is bending ..... and it did bent (or is it benD??). The Nozzle was in the middle of the bed and was going down while the BLTouch Bed Leveling Probe was hitting the bed first, 2 times to be exactly, and then get up again before it came down without anything in the world could stop it. It really hit my Bed very hard and before i knew what was going on and powered off the machine, there was alot of damage. I have tried to recover the damage and went on, with the believe it was my own fault because i was so stupid to trust something to work right out of the box. But whatever i tried and how much video's i watched before making another attempt; the damage is getting worse and worse. BTW, after leveling it always says that Z=29,9. But the nozzle is only about 15 away from the bed. So now i have a completely brand new CR10S Pro V2 that is not working (and the bed is damaged, without warranty as i understood).. It really drives me crazy and i'm desperately in need of help. Is there anybody, preferebly in the Netherlands, that can help me please????? Thanks in advance, Gerard

[@Astinsan]

It’s just foil tape to direct the radiant heat to thermistor and also saturate both sides of the resistor. Thermistors are a cheap item. More heat equals more resistance. It really doesn’t see heat or sense it. The firmware looks fir the preprogrammed resistance that equates to a temperature. A inferred sensor would be way more accurate and honestly not much more in price.the sensor would not have to move and could be mounted anywhere with a clear view of the heat bed. It would also allow you to have multiple zones to sense making it possible for dynamic heat in the bed. That way you don’t have to cook plastic that isn’t as much mass.

[@ndupontnet]

I'd just have slapped any random thermistor out of a $2 hotend.

[@VincentGroenewold]

Yeah, would've been a bit faster and way less hassle. :)

[@andy_liga]

Could have slapped in literally any other thermistor and flashed it in marlin to properly read it. Thing is the prusa mini has a tab that has to be broken to reflash the FW, that also voids the warranty. I guess that's the reason he went through all the hassle

[@MyBrothersMario]

@@andy_liga Then just get the same thermistor already wired up from Prusa directly for $5.77 and it even comes with a piece of aluminum and Kapton tape to replace the old stuff you take off.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

That sounds like way less work hahahahahaha.

[@raku2122]

@@3DPrintingNerd But might not work as good because they could have used different thermistors as the bed does not nearly reach the same temperatures hotends reach. I swapped the connections of the two on mine printer once and the values had a big difference.

[@dchstudio9519]

My Mini had the same issue for the bad thermistor for the heated bed and PINDA probe. I managed to find the broken section and made a joint connection and have the cable taped on the bed. It's been working well for 3-4 months now. I got the free replacement from Prusa later and I just kept them for spare. Joining cables is not very difficult to do but I am sure there are some design flaws after hundreds of hours bending and fatigue on cable.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Wow, still working 4 months later, that's awesome!

[@sublimationman]

The wires break right at the edge of the bed, when it happened to me I just spliced the wire, no need to change it out.

[@odmods]

@EpoxyJewelry.com possible to shorten and resolder the wire. how did you know the point of breakage ?

[@fuzzballdasoft5889]

Let us take a moment to honor that mk2 a true veteran

[@3DPrintingNerd]

That thing is super loud, but a workhorse like crazy

[@fuzzballdasoft5889]

I have a mk3s and I find it a bit loud so I wonder what the mk2 is like

[@Zplizor]

The round shape, is to relief the sensor, so it can't slip out

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Oh that's it?

[@Zplizor]

@@3DPrintingNerd yeah, so you cant pull it out, as its not mechanically fixed, other than the tape

[@foxabilo]

The aluminum tape is to thermally couple the thermistor to the bed and the Kapton tape is to provide strain relief for the wires and also a degree of electrical and physical protection.

[@jim2386]

Props to Sean for making the directorial decision to shoot this video handheld. I feel like it adds to the excitement and action....Like a Christopher Nolan film.....or saving private Ryan!

[@Aidenn23]

Thanks! I actually don’t remember if it was Joel’s call or mine. But I know I was looking for any excuse to use my new a7siii handheld. 😂😂😂

[@jim2386]

@@Aidenn23 after some research I found the term for jittery shutter during action scenes is called “strobing” Please consider using this for future hand held shots when there are chances for explosion, impalements, or the third reich comes knocking at the door! Surefire thriller!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

HANDHELD! When I was watching the first cut of this, I told Sean and David "I LOVE THIS HANDHELD CAMERA STUFF"

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

To those suggesting buying the replacement: That's a good point, especially since the wires are quite thin. However, shipping from central Europe or even from resellers in North America is going to be slower than extracting the thermistor from an idle Mk2. Regarding the heated bed wiring, it's probably good enough, and if you're concerned about continuity there are probably products that can help with conduction. Other than that, well, screw connections are an electrical standard...

[@artiem5262]

How about an episode going over the list of spare parts you should keep on hand? The ones that go out on Friday evening when you have to deliver a bunch of stuff Monday morning? Cheers!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

That's a super fun idea!

[@fofopads4450]

bearings, nozzles, pfte tubes, thermal paste and both thermistors

[@chris8239]

Merry Christmas Joel and family and friends

[@hojokono]

my big thing i have had to do with my prusa i3 mk3 (now S) is replace the filiment sensor that had a broken die, and clean off the fuses since they oxidized too much and were not reading casuing nothing to heat up. besides that a few adjustments to levling every now and then, and my printer works good as new!

[@xargon1234]

joel the way they connect the wires to the heat bed is perfectly fine look in you're car there are a ton of connections just like it, they will last a very long time, its the preferred method for moving and vibrating parts. solder can crack and cause arching and heat leading to fires

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Are you talking about the wires where they are apart?

[@xargon1234]

@@3DPrintingNerd yes where they are bolted to the heat bed that is used all the time where motion and vibration are a factor

[@crussty3d]

Prusa Consistency in parts FTW here!!!

[@tomluque]

Spreading the thermister leads apart is a method for better surface position mounting of wires with tape to a surface.

[@patrickugorcak]

Joel, Printed Solid is your friend when you need parts for the Prusa. I’d always put a new one on. The time you would save from issues would be worth it.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Yep, Printed Solid is rad. One will be on order soon!

[@WoLpH]

Regardless of broken wires, thermistors are fairly prone to breaking and really cheap to replace. I've rebuild many HP LaserJet Fusers over the year and replacing the thermistor was a standard part of the procedure

[@cr3atedbygod289]

Joel, you mentioned the “controversy” over heatbed wire attachment. Obviously different principles but we trust the batteries and alternators in our vehicles to bolted power wires.

[@ayourk1]

I've actually replaced my thermistor on my heatbed. I bought some kapton tape and 3M High Temperature Flue Tape. I replaced my thermistor with a PT100 sensor.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Oh really? How is it working out for you?

[@ayourk1]

@@3DPrintingNerd I made that modification years ago. I've since gotten a free replacement bed from Prusa. With a E3D amp it works well, but I attempted to use it without the amp. I was the person that got the PT100 support integrated in the Prusa firmware so you can check Github to see about when I did this modification to my 3D printer.

[@tovi91]

That gap between the wires of the thermistor is so its harder to pull it out :)

[@3DPrintingNerd]

So that's it - thanks!

[@Recicleitor_Maker]

thanks for such good videos !!

[@Matas3DCreations]

thats awesome ! glad prusa uses interchangeable parts with their printers !

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I'm very thankful this worked!

[@crash187crash]

11:03 joel should really print a wire loom tool

[@norsevikingsir4932]

I replace all my thermistors with commercial grade ones by Avantco or Johnson usually. They won't break like those tiny ones, just takes a little custom work.

[@oleurgast730]

Do they use the same custom temparature table Prusa thermstors have or to yo modify the firmware to use them?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

oh really? more better?

[@christopherenoch4230]

I'd love to see a show of a MK2 being upgraded to a MK3s+! Maybe Joe, Miki or Matt will send you the kit, before they stop making them.

[@oleurgast730]

As you get an cloned mk3s bear edition (without plastic parts) from fysetc (I paid 249€ in November sale on AliExpress incl. shipping from US warehouse) and you can buy the relevant original Prusa replacement parts (like e3d heatbreak, SuperPinda, powder coated spring steel) for about 90€ I see no advantage of upgrading a well working mk2. For less the price of the upgrade you get a complete mk3s+; even better as bear upgrade allready included. The advantage of an open source printer... I have some of these clones (and one original). One of the advantages of the clones: You can include some nice updates directly while building. Like using the thingiverse variant of the bondtech upgrade extruder etc.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

mk2 to mk3+? oh dang, that's quite an upgrade. I was going to be going Bear with this though.

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

@@3DPrintingNerd It would be a mainboard, heated bed, and filament sensor replacement. Hardest part is the heated bed, that's almost always sold out at Printed Solid ...

[@sargfowler9603]

That's just silly. Buy another thermistor. Now you've got to fix the mk2.

[@Aidenn23]

He said in the video he had already planned to rebuild the mk2 so had no problem taking it apart. :)

[@3DPrintingNerd]

heh. "fix" the mk2 - so like I said in the video, I'd rather convert this to a Bear sort of system, so the fix is going to be a little more complex :)

[@3DJapan]

It was already going to be rebuilt anyway.

[@Skoose]

Look forward to seeing Joel on the next Prusa Live this week

[@EpicProvider]

my cr-10 has bin going for 7 years, alot of months of solid printing non stop, bed thermistor is the only thing i haven't replaced besides the frame and steppers. but bed heater wires are the worst for breaking due to thicker gauge and constant moving back and forth

[@EpicProvider]

@@williamlivingston2929 yes i replaced them with silicone stranded, but overtime it still takes its tole.

[@3DJapan]

I've made grilled cheese worth the bread soaked in egg like French toast. I used shredded mozzarella and had tomato sauce to dip in.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

NOM

[@Zachary3DPrints]

great video buddy, really nice... Yup I have learned quite a lot in the time that I have 3D printers. It's certainly not uncommon to do this kind of maintenance

[@joshuahuman1]

If i had to guess the silver tape its to increase transfer heat from the bed to the thermistor to get a better reading

[@3DPrintingNerd]

ooh, that's a good point. maybe that's it.

[@VincentGroenewold]

The maintenance not being easier is what I like less about a Prusa (though still buying one). I'd love there to be a more "engineering" type of model, where things are more designed to be easily removable.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I like what you're thinking, but I don't know if modularity is something for hot ends. Is it? I think Prusa has the clean look because the connectors aren't near the hot end. I wonder if it's that way because of support or ease of use or look.

[@VincentGroenewold]

@@3DPrintingNerd Only Prusa knows I guess, bu t there must be ways to get it to be nicer. I’ve seen these designs before, like easy release connectors for the whole hotend assembly, magnetic or otherwise, that type of thing.

[@maxhardcastle3526]

Good vid Joel

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thank you!

[@leviathanpriim3951]

thanks Joel

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Hey! Thanks as always for watching!

[@JustLocal]

Happy Holidays!

[@PaulDominguez]

Seems so wrong to tear the Mark2 to fix a Mini

[@VincentGroenewold]

He's rebuilding it apparently so maybe that warrants it. :)

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Just rebuilding it, so totally fine to tear it apart! :)

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

@@3DPrintingNerd rebuild as in upgrade, or just straight up rebuild as a mk2?

[@Fossil924]

A Prusa will be my next FDM printer but my next overall printer will be an Elegoo Saturn whenever they come back in stock!

[@Dr3450]

I'm so upset your allergic to pesto! It's the best and most versatile sauce in existence! My absolute favorite and I'm upset you have to miss out on its glory!

[@dubi01]

that's why you should always have a few spares, kapton tape, and something good to drink!

[@yogimarkmac]

Opening up the thermistor wires is most likely how the original one in the mini was broken!

[@sevilnatas]

Hey Joel, you keep mentioning the camera slider stand thing build you are doing. I was wondering if you had any trouble with the aluminum procurement? I know the originator of the camera slider stand thingy is in europe and he of course would be ordering his aluminum in metric and the 3D printed pieces would be sized to fit those metric aluminum pieces Did you need to make adjustments to the prints, or did you order metric aluminum, or was their equivalent aluminum available that fit the prints? I ask the question because I want to build myself one and was getting my ducks in a row before starting. Anyway, can't wait to see your version...

[@Chilternflyer]

In this episode Joel wrecks a perfectly good printer in the hope of fixing the other one. Always do your research before making things worse. Kids:- Don't do this a home.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

The mk2 wasn’t perfectly working. It was LOUD and it was scheduled to be taken apart for a Bear upgrade.

[@Chilternflyer]

@@3DPrintingNerd Fair point. I was just a bit surprised about your approach and logic of what you were doing. I've just bought my first chinese printer. So far it's been a false economy. I'd gladly let you take that apart!

[@kennecke]

That’s not fair Joel, now I’m hungry 🥪 😋

[@eekeek433]

This is something that prusa need to address, my 3 prusa mk3s's have the same issue with the thermistor failing. I have gone through many thermistors in the past 12 months with minimum printing times.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I don't know much about thermistors, so I'm wondering if there are different quality ones? Maybe there are more industrial sensors?

[@rcmaniac25]

I'm glad I was eating while that cheesy sponsor was discussed. Slated the hunger.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I apologize :)

[@rcmaniac25]

@@3DPrintingNerd lol

[@montahd7530]

a quick question! doesn't the heat coming from the heated bed makes the magnets weaker?? i know heat kills the magnet! so ????

[@ken.waters]

Like you need another project to do or random recommendation Joel, but if you ever have the opportunity you should try out the Caribou mk3s upgrade (formerly Zaribo). I’ve built two Bears and the Caribou is by far better. Just my two cents!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I know of the Caribou stuffs and it looks awesome!

[@danielhastings3167]

I have extra thermistors for my MakerTech Axis 3D. I wonder if one of them would work. I will have to keep this in mind if I ever have this problem with my Prusa Mini.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I mean, they might? My guess is only issue may be not the right connector?

[@danielhastings3167]

@@3DPrintingNerd The connector looks the same. In fact, the only visible difference is the Axis 3D wires are longer

[@makewithmegma]

Nice one👌👍

[@ndivir]

You can get like 10 3950 thermistors for like $7 haha. But this works too!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

hahaha right? this was way more fun, and Sean got to use his new camera. double win!

[@nikstohn]

So weird to see a video like this just few days after the thermistor wire of my MK3S broke and I had to order a new one. 😅 Just wondering if there’s any way to reduce the stress of that thing during the bed movements so it won’t break again after 3 months like mine did.

[@andy_liga]

Dragchains are the solution, they are a pain to print (and/or expensive to buy). If installed properly, they reduce the stress on wires massively. An old times method, is to run a dummy big gauge cable in the same sleeve and tied at both ends, the bigger cable has a much bigger bending diameter and it relieves a lot of bending stress from the smaller cables.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I think for these machines the best way is the 3mm nylon section of filament acting like a bend radius limiter. Oh shoot Andy said that!

[@ameliabuns4058]

that bed came out os cleanly. last time I took my clonetack out of my bed I hate to screape at the glue for 1 hour while sniffing probably a gallon of rubbin alchohol

[@3DPrintingNerd]

That GLUE! Ugh I've done that, and yeah, I hate that glue.

[@social1extreme]

im drunk dude, i merely type, hope you keep up to the good work

[@3DPrintingNerd]

What are / were you drinking?

[@social1extreme]

@@3DPrintingNerd beer, named 8.6 imported from Holland. It's the last time that I listen to my friends with the "come on, the last one" my head is killing me

[@thermalreboot]

Shoulda' asked Joseph to send you a new thermistor, that mini must still be under warranty.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

It is, and support said they could, but I needed it to print now, and couldn't wait for parts.

[@thermalreboot]

@@3DPrintingNerd Buy the upgrade to make the Mk2 a Mk2.5S, that'll be a good episode.

[@Duwaru]

You should not use the screws on top to remove bed, use the ones underneath 😭

[@steviemeep9686]

Does the super pinda fix this issue?

[@scottwa]

Wouldn't have been a bad idea to have set the printbed to preheat and make sure the temp was going up... if you had the thermistor connector on backwards it would indicate a drop in temp rather than raising.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

The thermistor isn’t something that can be attached backwards. It’s not directional.

[@qSPARTANp]

NICE!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thanks!

[@gionmanetsch7330]

What exactly was the orange clear tape you remove first on the mk2?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

The kapton tape?

[@gionmanetsch7330]

@@3DPrintingNerd Yes

[@johnwatrous3058]

The "star drive" is called a torque head drive.

[@DraakjeYoblama]

Torx I think, torque is a physics thing

[@michaelluger2127]

profligate: recklessly extravagant or wasteful in the use of resources.

[@boozekashi]

Joel has strong t-shirt game! Goes with the sword! 🗡 🌩 🐈 Snarf snarf!

[@rimmyman]

Matter of semantics but they are called torqes bits not star drive. :)

[@stevenm1954]

I have a question for anybody. If bed is 300mm x 300mm can you print to full 300mm in either direction in x and y and if I printed at a 45° will I be able to print bigger than 300mm depending of coarse the width of project

[@alexdavidsantiago3955]

What about installing a Bondtech extruder and heartbreak kits?

[@oleurgast730]

Why didn´t you check first if the cable is broken directly near the thermistor (where it is transparent) or on the long cable part? Mostly I have found cable breaks on the longer part, there the cable moves, not directly at the thermistor, where it is fixed by tape. So my first try would be to remove thermistor, cut the longer cable part and solder a new one on. If the temperature reading is correct than, problem is solved. Only if not, I would change the whole thermistor including cable.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

The thermistor is such a cheap part to replace, and I would have just replaced it if I had one on had. With this I get to take apart the mk2 and get it ready for further upgrades, and it was a bunch of fun. I thought the thermistor wires are super tiny and not easy to solder?

[@oleurgast730]

@@3DPrintingNerd The thermistor is already soldered. The very thin transparent cables to the thermistor are soldered to the white cable, the soldering part is covered by the shrinking sleeve. So if the white cable has a break, soldering a new cable is quite easy - cut away the shrinking sleve and use the original soldering connection, as there is everythink already tinnend. But od course, if you want to upgrade the mk2 anyway - for example with the 12V mk2.5 bed - taking that is totaly o.k. But in my experience disassembling a maschine for future upgrades often is not a good idea. Often other projects come between and all the time the printer is out of order. Much more better is to disassamble only after all new parts arived and you have time to install them instantly. I made the mistake of disassemble to long before having the new parts and the time to do the upgrades much too often (about 14 printers are in "experimantal/"will do tomorrow" status...)

[@KiR_3d]

Hi, Joel! Why not to buy a cheap Chinese thermistor? These are pretty good.

[@dergraph69]

I don't know how often i repaired my printer this style

[@gionmanetsch7330]

Can you put the reference for the two tapes ? (orange and silver) ?

[@dallagen3423]

3d printer markiplier

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I’ve heard that before

[@05dcummins]

i bet the wires were not even broken on the thermistor. i suspect they pulled apart in that heat shrink tubing

[@3DPrintingNerd]

ooh, you think so? I mean, I threw it away, so we will never know :(

[@janwiersma1449]

nice. ripping a working prusa mk/2 apart to get a 2 dollar thermister.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

😎 thankfully it’s scheduled for upgrade

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

The "star drive" screws are also called Torx, and they're becoming more common because they don't cam out the way Phillips screws can. At least they didn't use something silly like pentalobe (Apple) or tri wing (Nintendo).

[@scottwa]

Star drive? I suspect you wanted to say Torx drive.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Heh I sure did. Words are hard sometimes.

[@fofopads4450]

So you canibalized a perfectly working MK2 for a spare you could have gotten for $5 or less.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

It was scheduled to be taken apart to be Bear upgraded. This was, while getting the thermistor out, the start of that process.

[@KiR_3d]

Can a thermistor be polarized?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I don't think so?

[@KiR_3d]

@@3DPrintingNerd I've asked because you've told a phrase that "it's not polarized" like it can be (maybe I've understood it like that :D ).

[@christopherenoch4230]

You need to update your firmware! 😉

[@3DPrintingNerd]

hahah yes I do :)

[@Gyrxiur]

that screws are called torx

[@3DPrintingNerd]

THANK YOU.

[@martinfolino5100]

hi joel can you make a video of how to install prusa slicer 2.3?

[@jirkasvitil2762]

You can google that

[@3DPrintingNerd]

How to install? I mean, I double click the installer file and it installs. Are you having a specific issue?

[@devilwarriors5164]

My mini bought in august has the star screw

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Oh really? Good to know!

[@grogyan]

This is why proper industrial sensors should be used, not cheap and fragile thermistors. Come on!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thermistors and industrial sensors aren't in my wheelhouse, so I don't know if they would work? Would they on this machien?

[@RicolaMint]

this video is 50% clear 50% blur ..... not the quality that we usually have .....

[@Aidenn23]

I was using a new camera and adjusting to it. Moving around using an autofocus I’m not familiar with and trying to see a 3” screen while holding the camera pretty far away from my face creates that. I was traveling and didn’t have my regular 7” monitor attached to check focus on. I’m getting much better with the cameras focus system now though. 👍🏻

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Sean was testing a new camera and I think for a test, this was great

[@darren990]

your getting rusty joel with that bed cover joel lol

[@3DPrintingNerd]

ahhahahaah

[@dominicsworkshop]

Hi Joel

[@lwg6605]

Great video. For next time, there are split sleeving install tools that make inserting the wire an easy job. I could not see exactly what type of sleeving it was but here is an example that shows how they work. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHrHi3-FfrinmpI

[@jessies9081]

Watching in Kuwait

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Whoa! hey from Seattle!

[@maazelll]

This hurts my heart

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Why?

[@maazelll]

@@3DPrintingNerd destroying a printer just to get a part that you can get dirty cheap from internet :p c'mon man don't hurt my 3d print heart

[@BaudirenergieDe]

Yes this is Prusa. A lot of cra..

[@3DPrintingNerd]

..zy engineers and people making it a part of a wonderful community

[@theshadowman1398]

Please clean that display.

[@jirkasvitil2762]

Hey wtf that thermistors cost like $0.5 whay would you want to risk destroying much better printer, than you are fixing when you can just buy it

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I talked about converting this to a Bear down the line, and I needed the MINI to be printing right now. I figure I can fix the thermistor on the mk2 once it's rebuilt and better.

[@chrisholmstrom624]

You still might have an issue Joel. I think the thermistor for the Mini is 24v and the MK2 is 12v

[@theotinjum225]

No, the thermistor is the same for for both the Mini and MK2

[@oleurgast730]

Thermistors are resistors. They are used in a voltage divider and connected to an analoge input of the CPU, so they are on logic voltage, not on heater/stepper voltage. mk2 is 5V (8bit), mk3 is 3.3V (32bit board). But the different voltage does not matter at all, as its the same thermistor type and the analog input compares the voltage from the devider to the table in the firmware. The analog input of the CPU senses f.e. from 0 to 1023 with 0 means ground and 1023 means logical voltage. With the NTC in a voltage devider having f.e. 50k on a certain temperature connected to logical voltage and the fixed resitor to ground with 100°C you would get 100/150*1023 as value - no matter what the logical voltage is. So you only have to know what value equals wich temperature; the absolute voltage does not matter at all (unless you acidently connect it to heater voltage and fry the CPU).

[@Aidenn23]

I printed for like 5 days straight after filming this on that printer and it worked perfectly!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I don't *think* those voltage numbers apply to the resistors? oh wait there is a thread here - Ole wrote some good stuff.

[@gerthalberg9735]

Not start drive it's Torx i.e a better Allen

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Ah that’s right!

[@GroovyDrifter]

No.

[@makersmancave9725]

5th 😡

[@stanley2734]

hi

[@buildersmark]

1st

[@dominicsworkshop]

Congrats 🥳

[@3DPrintingNerd]

CERTIFIED FIRST!