Fixing my Tailgate with an Excavator!

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[@josephvasile2389]

I had a similar issue. I would recommend just pulling off the tailgate and cut the dished steel out and weld in new sheet steel.

[@WoodNMetalWorkshop]

This! Plus install some heavy wall square tube or angle behind to beef up the area.

[@shackman9566]

Yep cause it should last a long time. The other quick fixes will probably fail much faster. Plus the the right size box tube will make it easier to get the patches flush with the rest of the gate.

[@klaernie]

This. Maybe go thicker with the steel, so that this heavy hit area is stronger than the rest of the tailgate.

[@RunPDP]

The current material has been hammered out (in the dents) - needs to be shrinked to get flat again (skilled sheet-metal workers would do it with a torch, like at a ships-yard) . An alternative is to take out a small strip, or replace the dented area. Put a cross-bar outside the closing area - or is it "inside a box-shaped tailgate"? If there is a double-sheet design - weld a flat iron to join the two sheets to one structure across the full width of the gate at the critical height.

[@davidverhegghe7185]

A1aaaaaaàaàààaqaààq my PO pop in No 😅​@@klaernie

[@richardevans9106]

Flat sheet skin approximately 12" wide welded to the face across the entire width. Wash-boarding always a problem with dump trucks. Skinning is easy fix but adds weight to truck.

[@DieselCreek]

Ehh what’s a hundred pounds of steel among friends

[@bungalowbill3409]

Why not just take the tailgate off, lay it inside surface down on some nice flat concrete then lay a 6x inbetween the ribs and smash it flat to the concrete with your excavator?

[@SHcinema]

I agree but you might want to see if you can cut the old bent skins off and put a heavier gauge metal on the lower portion of the door with some angle iron gussets across that 'core' zone. It would be only slightly heavier than what is on it and would be far more bend resistant. You could also back it with wood insert in the dead zone and this would 'bounce' the attempts to bend the metal back though it would probably be just as heavy as the angle iron and might induce moisture problems unless it was REALLY dry wood.

[@pjotrkuh]

Yes some new skin just stitch weld a bit so you can replace once a few years

[@BrazDane]

My exact idea as well.

[@losskauz6821]

In my younger years I drove a dump truck for an ol' timer trucker. He had 15 dumpers. When he encountered that issue it was always the same fix. Take off the tail gate and lay out flat. Cut out warped sections and replace with new. Every time he did this, he welded in more support behind to give less room for concaveing. After reinstall he never had an issue with severe concaveing enough to allow pass through. More time consuming but less weight added and a better, long term solution. There were other quick fixes but remain needed from time to time. My first year in his truck, mine was done that way and then years later when he passed 'my' truck only had a slight conclave but still flush all the way across. Good luck either way you go. Thanks for sharing the vid. Brought back awesome memories. Have a great day bud and stay safe!

[@joelopez6525]

To protect our gate lower aprons we used a hard plastic bolted to the lower gate. It was a 3/4” hard plastic material freight companies use to protect their sidewall from forklifts and shifting loads. They called it scuff liner. We would bolt it to the gate on the lower 1/3rd an it could fill a 3/4” gap over the apron floor and it covered dents in the gate as well. I think the technical name was call Dura-Plate. Hope that helps.

[@garagedweller7159]

Missed your video, yesterday was busy. My first grand child was born yesterday down in Morgantown!. Another beautiful day here in SW PA Just finished up a 8 yard pad pour with 4 friends The youngest one was 58 and it wasn't me. Glad to see some younger guys like yourself out there doing this stuff. Thanks for the content.

[@DieselCreek]

Congrats!!

[@ronaldclark1178]

Out of all the comments, re-skinning the bottom of tailgate is the best. Done these type of repairs for 50 years. Save time and money by doing it right the first time. Had to re-do many jobs before learning that. lol

[@WhiskeyGulf71]

I'd weld a heavy 1/4 inch pate across the bottom, maybe 12" high, grind off the top so its a 45° to stop stuff catching it or sitting on it, this will protect the tail gate from getting bent again.

[@CapeAnnImages]

Option #3 but don't use angle iron just flat stock and bevel the top edge so nothing will get caught. Best Regards, Jay

[@justinfisher36]

Same thing i was thinking. All the way across with like a 1/2x6

[@stuartofJax]

I agree. May be add some filler pieces between the current metal and the new flat stock to help the new flat stock from bending/warping in. I think the angle iron will catch too much and get pushed down over time so that it might get in the way of the tailgate closing flush.

[@danielbenyon9402]

just mig weld a bead on the tailgate to fill the gaps, then grind to marry the tailgate and bed to tight - no gap fit

[@johngarnich3653]

I agree, even with the sloped angle, with what you haul, I could see blocks and rebar catching it.

[@sliderinc1]

That's what I was thinking

[@rushedscheduledfun3963]

Watch the paint. Chain the truck to the excavator. Then you can push as hard as you want. Great video

[@DieselCreek]

Why didn’t I think of that.....

[@benmac940]

Thought the same thing

[@mr-802]

A lot of guys around me bolt up a 3/4in sheet of plywood or similar to the inside of the tailgate. It's easily replaceable after a few years, it takes the abuse off of the metal tailgate and makes unloading larger materials a little quieter.

[@davidcatlette9697]

Its what dump truck drivers do here in NC line beds with oak boards great protection for hauling large rock and broken block

[@MustObeyTheRules]

Damn that’s a good idea. I’d bolt ply wood on the bottom of the bed too

[@unclegreybeard3969]

I vote this the best answer so far

[@MrSkunkymonkey1]

Or even a old bit of scaffolding board, there constantly needing replaced to stay up to date with safety inspections and would probably end up getting turned to firewood if not reused for another purpose

[@travismarett7100]

I also live in NC. And for hauling rip rap my whole bed is lined with wood. A 3/4" sheet across the tailgate will take the brunt of the impact of dumping large rock and debris from the tailgate. Also adds 3/4" of overlap for the gate to the bed.

[@my88runner]

use welding rods like body filler- build it up where needed then grind it smooth to fill the gaps perfectly and nothing to catch on

[@martinwyke]

I'd try a sacrificial material like old conveyor belting attached to the back face of the bed, something that will compress and can be cut down so it doesn't protrude above. Providing it doesn't stick up too much it should be safe from excessive wear during use.

[@WatchWesWork]

If it was me, I'd weld some chain links or something to the plate on the inside of the tailgate and use your excavator to pull out the dents in the panel like an automotive frame rack. I used to work on some trucks for a dump truck company. Their "mechanic" didn't want to adjust the rusty linkages, so he'd just build up the contact surface of the tailgate pins with weld. Some had over an inch of weld on them!

[@DieselCreek]

I’ve seen that done as well lmao

[@northmanlogging2769]

ah... can you punch him in the sensitive bits for me, had to grind about 1/2" off mine to make em work again... problem with building em up with weld is eventually the dogs are no longer in the locked position and will pop loose under load... which is bad m kay.

[@manuallabor7193]

Hello from Tx Wes. We need more videos please.

[@insanemustaine111]

Love your channel Wes!

[@filipemsferreira]

@@DieselCreek a collaboration between the two of you would be nice... Just saying...

[@Moonmastered]

I am now realizing, that for every shot of you driving, you have to stop, get out, and move the camera. That is quite a bit of time for a minute or so of the video! Impressive Job :)

[@DieselCreek]

It sure is....thanks for appreciating!

[@danbartolini27]

Bolt a removable sheet of 3/4 inch plywood to the inside of the whole tailgate. It will fill the gaps and absorb any future impacts and when it's trashed just replace it

[@jimwesselman]

Make that treated plywood and you have a deal!

[@germanjesus]

You sir are the only one to take the adjuster out on a 30 year old dumper Unless being paid to do so in the history of man. Great freaking job

[@Porty1119]

LOL! I had to mess with the tailgate latch on a '77 five-ton underground truck, the solution was just brute force. Might reprofile the lock bar if it gives me any more trouble.

[@wyattcollier8930]

3/8” round bar welded to the tailgate that matches the contour of the floor. Usually go half way up the box. That works for small issues. I do that on the trucks i re-skin for customers. I have had to use a back hoe to straighten to some bent ones as well.

[@grahamredfern814]

Think your idea of the angle iron is spot on. Maybe use the excavator bucket to take out some of the flex whilst welding. Tack the two ends first and block them before using the bucket. Best of luck, which ever way you fix it.

[@maximilianrockefeller8854]

I've seen a lot of comments of people suggesting skinning it with a large 12in tall piece of thick steel plate the width of the gate. Definitely the ides that gets a 👍 from me. It's what we did with our old farm dump truck growing up, and where I first got to play around with a mig welder. Good times 🤘😎🤘

[@DieselCreek]

Yes I’m thinking that’s gonna be the right move for me as well

[@alexbruski1138]

One way to repair the dented plate on the inside of the tailgate is to get some steel pipe and a hole saw the same size. Drill holes through the plate on the outside of the tailgate, keeping the pieces that you cut away with the hole saw. Put the pipe into the holes and push the dents out of the inside plate. Do this while it is closed and latched so it does not warp. When you get it pushed out to where you want it to be, cut a piece of pipe to go into the hole, weld it in and then weld the round circle back into the outside of the tailgate. Now each of those areas are supported by the outer wall and will be stronger in the future. Grind the welds and paint and it will look like it was never bent.

[@lloydholt6511]

Adding a twelve inch tall plate to the lower part of the tailgate would work also and be cheaper. I would suggest a small sample strip tacked on first. Check side fit of the tailgate to insure the clearance on the sides did not open so much leakage at the sides became a problem. Re-skinning the tailgate would be a more permanent solution if the smaller piece doesn’t work out. It has the added benefit of allowing you to straighten/flatten the lower supporting structure. Stitch welding would be easier but would allow moisture buildup or accumulation between parts. Ultimately the decision is yours. it’s your truck. Thank you for sharing.

[@rudyfisher7660]

A flat plate all the way across just inside the tailgate it won't be thick enough about a quarter of an inch or 1/8 of an inch thick won't be thick enough to cause you any problem catching on anything

[@bryand1204]

We always used bar stock about 1/2 inch and welded it to the gate from about 12 inches or so up each side, and then followed the contour of the gate around the sealing edge. It will work until the gate needs to be replaced at least. And it won't cause material to get stuck at the end of the bed.

[@paulstanding7267]

Just weld some flat plate on to the tailgate then grind it down to make a fitting you are happy with.worked in the ship building industry for years had lots of bents in panels you have probably seen them. Once steel have been bent it has forced it to stretch so you never get it back straight again infill is the best method nice vlog 😀

[@bkbrown5881]

cut out the sheet, add some more structure on frame of tailgate, weld new sheet back on. Easy fix.

[@DukeOfTwist]

A random thought idea on how to remove the squeak on those linkage rods is to slide some old (or better still new) garden hose over the full length. If thats not possible split some short lengths of smaller hose to wrap & use twist wire to hold around the hoops its carried by. Seen this done on lots of old farm equipment.

[@sargentodd]

Just throwing this out there. On my old dump truck I took some old mining belt strips and bolted them on the bed floor. And on the gate its self. Helped seal it and helped with the banging of the gate when it was unloaded. Plus it was a cheap and easy fix

[@alanstant9356]

It always comes down to everything needing a little bit love from time to time Matt. Cant never win for losing on most most things. Its always something working and maintaining on equipment.

[@DieselCreek]

ALWAYS!

[@willcollier6623]

We did pull the tailgate off of a truck and pounded the dished in area and reinforced it from the outside between the gussets . It seem to hold up quit a while. We in turn had another new truck reinforced while being built. Good luck with the ol IH.

[@martinsnyder4947]

I agree

[@craigsaunders1728]

I had the same idea

[@charlesreohr6236]

I agree. Put a gusset across the other side at the bottom to keep it from denting out. It should have had one from the factory but well you know they just make them they don't use them.

[@frosteone1670]

Agree, it needs the 4 gussets inside extended to the bottom. Cut slots in outside where gussets are to be installed, install gussets, reinstall slot pieces. Very little weight addition. Gussets should have gone from top to bottom, why they stop where needed most escapes me..

[@TheBartmobile]

Agree

[@kevinmartin401]

I have basically the same truck as you, what I did was add hinges to the right side so I can just swing the gate open by just pulling 2 pins on top and adding two on the side. Now it’s easy to scoop out and large stuff doesn’t get stuck anymore

[@2Moza]

6" Rubber convayor belt across the Tailgate with a 1/8 x 1" flat strip and use Pop Rivets to attach to the tailgate, just make sure you don't get any of the belt inbetween the gate and the bed of the truck rubber will bend to the shape at the top and the lower part of the rubber will stop any loss of dirt or stones. Good luck .

[@52Ford]

"The trick windshield manufactures don't want you to know". Thanks for taking the time to fix that. Never tried it, but I bet bolting some used conveyor belt to the bottom of the tailgate would help, and make it quieter. You can get that stuff wide enough to cover the whole tailgate, too.

[@GenderSkins]

I have to agree with some of the other commenters Matt, I would just weld flat iron to the tailgate and I would go al the way across. All though I think I would go with either half inch thick, or maybe even 3/4 inch thick flat iron. Another option would be to just find a nice wide piece of angle iron, to weld onto the bottom of the tailgate but that would change the position of your latch pen's, so flat iron where the dish out area's would be better. So what I would do is go 12 inch wide, half to 3/4th thickness flat iron all the way across the bed.

[@rickanderson1168]

What we do is line the inside of the gate with concrete form plywood it lasts a lot longer than regular 3/4 plywood . It takes the shock out and saves it from dents. Just use self tapping screws into the ribs so they don’t stick out on the out side. Form plywood has like a fiberglass coating it works great 👍good luck with what ever you decide and with your business. ( Autocar 👍)

[@aotilanyoldthingilike1686]

You asked for suggestions, so here are two that I might try. How about trying epoxy putty? You could use a grinder with a sanding disc to get down to the bare metal, wax up the truck bed side, and use the gate itself to compress the putty so it sticks to the gate, but not the waxed bed. It would fit to the exact. bed face I would try one bowed section at a time. Using a putty knife on any epoxy that is above the bed to taper it three or four inches up the gate. That would give you the exact profile, while the taper would keep rock from sitting on a "ledge". Not sure of the cure time required or if the epoxy putty would let go after it is cured when bumped by big machinery such as you described when using the excavator to unload rock. It would be cheap and easy making it worth a try for me. I would use the sanding disc on the grinder to make the taper a smooth transition on the gate. Alternatively I wonder if you could open the top or surface of the gate and drive a piece of square metal stock, either solid or hollow, down into each of the three cavities that make up the bowed portions, and weld in place inside the gate. Then weld a piece over the opened section. No real idea if either idea would work, that's for you to decide.

[@EngineeringVignettes]

Fix the problem at the source? Plasma off the skin where it is buckling, add metal re-enforcement to the bottom of the gate to prevent future dents and weld the skin back on. Yes it's more involved but it permanently fixes the problem. Would probably have to be done when there is a good bit of down-time scheduled for the truck. And gives you an excuse to get a plasma cutter (if not already in the horde). Adding in cross bracing may also help to reduce the gate from being bent out at the mid point. Cheers,

[@davidbanaszak562]

As a retired seabee I would have just welded 1/8" to 1/4" plate steel over the concave parts to restore the shape and reinforce the tailgate. But that will add weight to the tailgate. In quarry operTions we would add steel to the beds of our dumps to prevent this from happening. But within reason the weight of plate steel will add up quick.. we had a 5 ton MTVR dump in the inventory that was unable to lift a full load of dirt.. we left that to the marines and went with a commercial model for our needs..

[@donparr8287]

Your angle iron idea is good. I would just scribe in the top edge and tack it in all along. That way it would strengthen the whole top edge along the angle.

[@DirtBrute]

We line our tailgates and dump sides with 3/4 plywood . You just self tap it and when the plywood where is our brakes you just throw another piece up. We do the side so we don’t get dents from rocks. Adding plywood protects everything but keep the weight down unlike adding steal

[@greywolf1708]

Yeah, I definitely get a piece of sheet steel the same width as the bed and about 6 - 12" high (or whatever the height of that gusset is) and weld it directly over the gate. We did this with our one at work and it solves the problem instantly. The problem with putting an angle piece is as you use it for large rocks and concrete is it WILL catch it and do more damage than you've got already. Another option is to drill from the outside 2 holes per gusset, heat the inside of the tailgate. Using a rod, hit the panels back into shape. If need be then weld a piece of a flat bar (say 3/4 or 1" by 1/8 thick) across the whole length to make a better seal. Good luck anyway.

[@bllence7353]

The spray helps, but you should have put an anti-seize on those threads and the pin. Maybe it had it on originally and that is why it surprised you that it was not rusted solid. An old time mechanic show me what was called never-seize, and it has been in my tool box ever since. Brake adjusters, just everything including the studs for wheel nuts. Years later you will be so thankful you took a couple of extra seconds to add the stuff. I enjoy your ideas, and I think the smaller angle iron would be the quickest and smartest fix.

[@ronhart4166]

My vote would be the thickest flat stock you can handle welded crossed the bottom of the tailgate. I would say 12" are taller. I myself have seen more damage from load shift when dumping than scooping .There is a lot of impact created when dumping large boulders and debris .

[@yzhang8629]

Drill a hole in the center of the dented area, shut the gate close, then pump some high expansion spray foam inside to push out the dent, like the one used for jacking up sunken concrete pad. Maybe you need to add some reinforcement bar on the opposite to prevent the outside from bubbling out.

[@ChainsawChuckSmallwood]

Bolt on 1/2” thick rubber while gate is closed old conveyer belt or shop floor rubber. The stuff is strong and will absorb that abuse as well as seal the gate against the floor. Option 3 is good too ;) Best wishes.

[@joelaughlin2815]

Making stuff work right, cool. Good job, be safe!

[@TechGorilla1987]

Drill a hole in the steel, fill it with starter fluid and light it off. That should pop it right out!

[@DieselCreek]

lol I like that one...

[@F3Ibane]

Instructions unclear, tailgate now in 20 pieces. Send ambulance.

[@clone1landman]

Black powder and a fuse..... Gives you that "custom look".....

[@mrpesky163]

Viral video too!

[@PaulBarwick]

Didn't you used to work for Mythbusters?

[@kevinroberts2014]

Spray up all your latch rod and linkage with oil or grease will make it a lot easier and quieter, another good video All the best from UK

[@gregmurray1918]

I think I’d try to plasma out the dented sheet and replace with new sheet, but heavier gauge. Sure, it’s the hardest of the options, but it’s doing it right the first time and you probably won’t have to ever do another fix to it for the life of the truck.

[@SeaLubber]

Matt, what about welding a sheet of metal to the inside if the tailgate tacking along the struts for rigidity. If you used a piece perhaps 18 inches x 96 inches (or whatever the bed width is), then you could essentially ad a supplemental skin right up against the floor of the bed and seal the whole edge where the tailgate meets the bed edge.

[@bradfordthompson8326]

It's neat how you fix stuff...Mat hope you know you inspire us all to fix our projects...mat fixes one of his problems child .(Machines) .and 4000 other projects........

[@jfinnall]

As for the truck being pushed by the excavator, chain the truck to the excavator and push away. On the inside of the tailgate it looks like there are vertical and horizontal ribs inside of it. So weld a plate all across the tailgate about 6" high just off the bottom of the bed. The horizontal rib should close up the gap across the top and the bottom edge to the bed should prevent anything falling through. When the tailgate is opened it is just a flat plate like it was new. Some short pieces of rebar welded between the tailgate and the plate in the damaged area, like filler, might help to prevent future damage to the new plate.

[@farmerpete5936]

We always used angle iron on all our dump trucks. A quick easy fox and its works good and will last a long time.

[@Bobbywolf64]

Option #4. Fix the issue fully by removing the inner plating entirely, and replacing it. I wouldn't think it would be too hard, maybe a bit time consuming. That way you are 100% back to square 1 with a flat new surface with no thinning, and it will take many years to get the same damage again.

[@Trknlife680]

Yep. 3/4 treated plywood cut to fit inside of bed is what we do. Cheap, easy, and replaceable

[@XCseb]

On our gravel trains we just weld round bar to the gates once they get a bow. We’ll weld them to the gate itself tight to the floor and up the sides as well.

[@galute658]

Use round bar welded to the tailgate where you had the angle. I've done a bunch of em. Works great. We always called it building a tailgate seal.

[@eddiepatterson5025]

I thought the same thing

[@onepup-pr3yl]

Great minds think alike, I was going to suggest welding a length of rebar across the base of the tailgate 1/2" or so but if you have a length of round bar stock available the same result, just a few $$$ more, an easy fix.

[@joem5239]

Try drilling a few small access holes on the bottom outside of tailgate and use a rod to bang out the dents closing the gap from the outside. Then cover the holes with a strip of flatbar. Shouldn't need too many holes to pound back the dents. My two cents. Oops, should have read other comments first. This was already suggested.

[@kenhart6330]

Quite a few go for plates across the whole tailgate but I can guarantee it will have welds down the braces. If you cut away the steel between them you will be able to grind it away allowing you to put a thicker piece in. Grind the edges to weld it to the old steel, where you have the damage will be stronger but it should bring it closer to the bed.

[@jamesbreault5762]

Great job Matt enjoy the different things you do.

[@Bigtiny123]

Had the same problem. I just built up weld on the face of the bed and then ground it to the contour of the tailgate it worked for years and is easy to redo if you have to.

[@suavecorpse9600]

you could weld a lifting lug to the inside of the door and to the far side of the bed attach a chain and ratchet binder to pull out the bow. or add a bit of heat to the outside of the door tighten and let it set to cool

[@northmanlogging2769]

just some sheet steel across the dented spots on the gate. Just about every thing else will just cause stuff to get hung up, even crush rock or dirt, a little sticks, then it builds up through out the day, keep everything in the bed and gate as smooth as possible.

[@bernardperaldi7488]

The solution is to pull the metal back to its place. You can temporarily weld a leg with a ring on the twisted spot and another leg at the bottom of the bucket. And you shoot with a ratchet chain tensioner.

[@young11984]

Just weld 3 beads between the bracing on the gate where its bowed 1/4” above the floor, we have been doing it for years to seal the bends in the doors and adds rigidity to the metal if its thin in that area. If its worn nearly thru we weld a piece of 1/2x1/2 angle on the flat on the door 1/4-1/2” above the floor until we can reskin it and it never gets bent even hauling rip rap

[@dallasphillips786]

Cut the dented section out, while you have access to inside the tailgate add more gussets . Then weld a sheet of steel back in. The added gussets will allow it to not get dented in so bad.

[@eformance]

I'd weld some tabs to the inside, then weld a tab to the floor and pull them back flat. You could drill some holes in the tailgate and fill it with concrete to keep them from bending again. If you want a light mixture, you could use epoxy with some granite chips mixed in, that will be lighter. I don't think an expanding foam would be strong enough, but there might be some that are. Another option is to cut slots in the back panel and inset additional gussets through the panel (outside of tailgate), then weld those gussets in from the outside and do a plug weld on the inside.

[@izzypisatx]

Bolt a 3/4 inch thick piece of pressure treated or marine grade plywood across the inside of the tailgate, just above the gaps, and just short of the inside of the bed on the left and right. Replace it once it is worn away, cheap and lightweight.

[@dm-zx7xb]

I would weld chain to the inside of the box and pull the dents out. Then, plasma cut a 3/8 pocket slit on the outside of the box between the two "gussets" and slide 3/8 thick steel inside and weld to the outside of the box. You can then plug weld to the inside skin by drilling holes so it's supported inside and out. Or remove the inside skin and continue the framing where that gap is between the "gussets" with box tubing and weld in new or straighten out the old skin (better option, more work)

[@infoanorexic]

The angle iron, place pyramid style to the tailgate, as you showed was the first thing that came to my mind. So, either great minds think alike, or misery loves company? Use whatever you've got that is heavy. Get a tighter fit along the top by laying your soapstone against the gate, and trace the current form onto the top edge of the angle, nibble off/up to the white with the cutting torch, repeat until you have a weldable fit all the way across. Weld it all in, & "Bob's yer auntie."

[@mjmcomputers]

Sheet of 3/16 sheet metal the size of the tailgate welded on to the inside. Weld the edges all around and drill holes in the sheet where all the gussets are and do plug welds.

[@SandyShoresProjects]

We always used a strip of old conveyor belt somewhat in the same way. Lay flat and screw in with self tappers onto the tailgate, it generally lasted pretty well.

[@tiredoldmechanic1791]

We welded 3/4 inch thick by 3 inch wide flat bar flat against the inside of the tailgates so the bottom edge was 1/16 inch above the floor of the box. Grind enough of a bevel on the bottom edge so there is room for weld or cut holes and plug weld.

[@brucewilson5087]

Add flat plate from gusset to gusset. 1/4 inch thick and maybe 12 to 16 wide.

[@edkern0749]

With the gate closed, Mark where the gaps are and weld some flat stock to the face of the dump body edge that faces the tail gate. Minimum steel to add (added weight), more labor intensive.

[@bradfordthompson8326]

Also Mat that angle you were going to weld on bottom of the 16" steel plate (See next comment) Mat you had perhaps a neat idea too ,when you dump 1 1/4" fines for road etc and you chain up the tailgate so it can only open 3-4 " etc...that angle on bottom of plate could act as a beautiful smooth "Grader" as the gravel is being dumped out ...(Mat as usual You inspire d some great ideas from you and your other neat subscribers 😀....You know Mat I thick you also just fixed our hyrail dump car...Thank you for you great videos Mat...You are impressive 😀😊 Thank you for including your "OPPSY "....we learn from them too......Oh This Weekend somewhere in Washington state ❤ ...We are saying "CONTACT"....."I wonder what Mat would do "??

[@ericball6894]

At our company we use 3/4 plywood with self tappers. If it breaks you put a new sheet on

[@janwillemweeda1952]

You can also run a no. of beads across the dent and since welded material shrinks it will pull the dents out.

[@jeffreyluna7016]

Take old mud flaps, cut them to fit the depth of the truck, bolt them along bottom. Will work as a blocker and not add much weight.

[@johncook4076]

Quick and dirty, you could just tie a fat rope to the top corners of the tail gate so that it drapes down to cover the crack. If you cut it in the middle, the rocks won't get caught on it. Might have to reposition the rope out of the way when you close and latch the gate. Once it goes bad, tie in another rope. I also think you could buy one sheet of 1/8 or better steel the width of the gate and just re-do the back side of the gate. Weld in some backer metal over the depressed areas so the sheet lays straight again. If you drill 3/8 or 1/2" holes over where the interior ribs are, you can catch the old tail gate metal with the weld, then just weld the hole back and grind flat. That way the sheet will be flat, but also welded in multiple spots to take advantage of the original structure.

[@scottbennett6494]

use the gas axe or lightning scissors to cut out inside of gate from side to side and add more bracing when there, then weld in a new piece and then use the death wheel to smooth off flush were it was welded. ( just approx 12" up )

[@robincharlton8682]

I would cut some holes in the outside box section and drift using thick-walled tube or something to make the inside flatter. Either use a sledge hammer or try the excavator push trick... then you can weld in the drift/tube from the outside to double up as additional gussets

[@uclajd]

Just jam some fabric in there before each load. Old blankets, whatever. For the noisy steel bar, secure some rubber hose around each area near the loops.

[@francissmith3635]

Now that you can adjust the door easier maybe weld a piece of sheet enteral to the door. That would even strengthen the door up.

[@davidming9553]

I would consider using quarter inch thick flat stock. A 3 to 4 inch wide strip running the width of the tailgate. Weld it in tight, good to go!

[@stevosauve]

Drill holes. Weld on nuts. Run in long bolts to push skin back in place. Leave it that way, or lop off the bolts flush with the nuts and tack weld

[@charlesbyrket1981]

Agree, rebar to fill gaps, under the lip of the bed, in between the gapped tail gate.

[@ctiley2212]

You answered the question as to why the adjuster was so easy to undo before you removed it from the "truck", when you commented how much paint was on it. That would have protected the threads somewhat.

[@studditsprojects3328]

Flat iron or some sucker rod get it thicker then needed and you can bend to match the curves . Another option is get some sheet metal and Re-skin the hole inside of the gate .

[@Kermit306TCI]

To get rid of the squeeze sound you could try some waterhose around the metal latch. Cut it open and close it with some tie wraps.

[@pieteroosthuizen7206]

Hi Mat, I would screw or stick a piece of conveyor belt to the bed of the truck, it got 2 functions 1 is it will fill the gap end 2 it will dampens the force of the slam on the tailgate after you tip material. I enjoy your channel from South Africa.

[@MishaDaBear]

What about putting a rubber gasket across the box below the base sheet to fill the gap on your gate. Your loads won't hit it as it would be below the lip yet your gate would rest against the rubber. A plus could be quieter running.

[@davidbillings615]

Matt not sure what you ended up doing on the tailgate. My thought would be to cut out the space in between the support and weld in a box tube or angle iron at the level of the bed even maybe channel the weld sheet back over the hole. It should hold up as well as the vertical supports do.

[@frankenstrat25]

Put another skin on. I'd get diamond plate slightly thicker than the gap and weld it to the gate so the tailgate will still sit flush how it is on the bottom, but you'll have a solid piece of 1/4 plate or so that will certainly help. You could do another thin sheet underneath that for extra support but mostly looks

[@terrymcgillicuddy8056]

Looking like a beautiful fall day. My favorite time of year.

[@DieselCreek]

Indeed! We just finally started getting into the wet season now which is always a bummer, those miserable all day drizzles

[@davidhimeback9087]

anti seize on all moving parts an the treads will be the best

[@stasiasas7635]

It’s like 4 inch angle iron go underneath the tailgate and go halfway up the tailgate and then weld it in it’ll be tighter on the bottom you may have to loosen the hinge pins a little bit but it should lock it nice my husband did it when he worked construction

[@kirk467]

I’d take it off, run a straight edge on the inside and if it’s a single plate the a couple blocks on the ground and push it where needed to get all straight and run angle or flat bar on outside to stiffen it up! Should last then! I wouldn’t put a filler bar inside, and straightening it will work without heat just the excavator pushing down on it! Flip over and check with a straight edge! To me that’s the right way to fix it! Any questions, message me! It’s hard to explain by texting! lol take care Matt! 👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@Eric-gi9kg]

For the gate gap... A bit of hammer work on the outside. If that doesn't remove the gap completely..weld in pieces of sheet to the gate.

[@martineastburn3679]

Mallet and pound the thin metal back into shape in small areas. Or simply add a sheet of ply to the inside of the tailgate. Protect it from rock and brick and seal sand.

[@hivolt55]

I would consider a 5/16" x 3" piece of flat-bar. With a cutoff wheel on a grinder I would remove the skin off the tailgate with a horizontal slot just big enough to fit the flat stock in with a little access area at the tailgate's interior struts (for welding). I would weld the flat-bar between the interior struts on the tail-gate. You can figure out how proud you need to bend the flat stock out from the face of the tailgate to minimize the gap at the bed. Your tailgate will not be absolutely smooth but it is not necessary for it to be absolutely smooth.. Once you have welded the bar in place, you weld the existing skin to the flat-bar. The bead will do a lot towards filling in the the difference between the skin and the flat bar. Before you weld the skin, you might be able to pry the skin out with a screwdriver/crowbar against the flat bar. It is a little tough to do this because the skin has stretched. You might cut use a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the skin to make it easier to pry out. This leaves you with a reasonably flat tailgate that closes against the bed and the bed is still smooth.