Fixing the BIGGEST issue with Resin 3D Printers BEST upgrade

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PATREON - / onceinasixside
KZbin - / @onceinasixside
Affiliate Links
Wham Bam Flex Plate: bit.ly/whambamsaturn
Irwin Quick-Grip Clamps: geni.us/KPYWTk
1.26" (32mm) Countersunk Hole Magnets: geni.us/CSMZVY
Countersunk Hex Head Bolt Kit: geni.us/68zQzW
Drill: geni.us/vO7L2bp
Drill Bits: geni.us/jxPG (2mm, 3mm, 4.5mm, and 8mm were used)
25mm Magnetic Hooks: www.ebay.com.au/itm/295456423109
Button Top Nuts & Bolts Kit: geni.us/rbhhBAU
Saturn 3: shrsl.com/4irs4 (y tho)
Tough Resin Ultra: shrsl.com/4dnlg
Sunlu Toughness: bit.ly/sunlutoughness
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M I N I R A T E R
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Other Mentions from the Video
Z Spacer Video: • Flex Plate Z Spacers
Rafts of Adhesion: makerworld.com/en/models/199086
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/ @onceinabside

[@OnceinaSixSide]

To address some recurring questions: Why didn't you just tap the holes? My preference was to keep the upgrade as simple and cheap as possible. Most people will have a drill and some drill bits, but a tap and die set is much less common, and also a bit of a skill in and of itself. I've certainly broken my share of taps lol. Also in regards to tapped holes, that would mean the holes have to be perfectly perpendicular to the build plate which would also require some kind of drilling jig, or better yet a drill press, again ballooning the cost and complexity of this mod way out. Why not just countersink and bolt the original magnetic sheet on to the build plate? The original magnetic sheet is a floppy and compressible material, not unlike TPU - so to apply acute pressure with bolts to extremely thin countersunk points on the magnet it will be very likely fail quickly in my opinion. Not to mention the undulation that's likely to occur between the placement of each bolt. You could mitigate that with some kind of additional adhesive or increase the number of bolts used, but the former is just more of the original issue we're trying to overcome here of adhesive failure, and the latter further diminishes the durability of the magnet (and quite possibly the strength too). Why not just tune your bottom layer exposure so parts are easy to remove? This can be a good idea, but it's one of those settings where you don't want to ride the edge of success and failure too closely. Its better to err on the side of good adhesion, and flex plates are just one of those things that once you start using one it's hard to go back - they're just so convenient and awesome to work with. Why not use shop rags to clean the build plate before installing the Whambam magnet? This is something Whambam advise on their instructions, and I believe its to completely remove any chance of rogue debri or oil that might be present in something like a shop rag from getting between the build plate and the magnet. Fresh paper towels are a pretty sure-fire way to rule out these contaminates. Whambam's response to this video: thanks for the wonderful video, we have a few comments to help with the process and science. Our Magnets and glues will stick very well and for many many years even to very large build plates! the FEP suction force is not the main reason for glue failure, the main reasons for glue failure are: poor installation (not scuffing and cleaning the build plate first, or not waiting the 72 hours to cure) or sitting too long in resin or IPA as both attack the 3M glues. Second point: we do recommend taking the full head off of the machine between prints to be sure to completely clean the build head and magnet and avoid getting trapped resin between build plate and magnet. Our magnets are coated with a protective UV cure layer, and long exposure to resin or IPA can eventually eat through this. Here is our best practice of installation as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKOslqh3nL1qrKs thanks again for the great video! Original pinned comment: Get your magnets and hardware right now, this shit works! Go go go! 1.26" (32mm) Countersunk Hole Magnets: geni.us/CSMZVY Countersunk Hex Head Bolt Kit: geni.us/68zQzW Also buy us a coffee lol buymeacoffee.com/onceinasixside/ Do it You'll get sweet STL's and you get to join the cult too. I mean Discord.

[@FoLeY172]

wonder if adding a rubber section in and cutting holes for the magnets to save that resin from catching in that space between would make it less messy

[@khanayudash2475]

You corrected yourself in the video by writing countersunk in text on screen when you said flat head bolt out loud - flat head machine screw is actually the correct technical term for this kind of machine screw! These are also measured in length including the entire head, as screw length is measured from the mounting face, so the face is flat due to the countersink chamfer.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

@@khanayudash2475 Damn, my quick Google search to double check failed me haha. Thanks for the info!

[@OrginalDravas]

Have you looked into Marine Metal adhesives?

[@RoseKindred]

In the pondering of modern-day philosophers, "Magnets, how do they work?"

[@nathanevans6580]

Water, fire, wind and dirt

[@roxasparks]

Me knowing how they work >:3

[@thejdi]

So the next iteration of resin printers should have magnets built into their build-plate, have a heated vat and a swivel release mechanism... what am I missing?

[@christiangruening352]

Resin Auto-Refil, Build in Camera and App for Monitoring the print…an skip a specific print during printing when you see a single part failing😊

[@SetaDragon]

Resin exposure finding mode, pressure sensor and power off print save.

[@martimattia1997]

so basically a saturn 4 ultra with a different build plate, it should even be possible to mount magnets in between the two plates of the bed, resulting in an even cleaner look, dunno if they would work properly tho

[@christiangruening352]

@@martimattia1997 Na a GKTwo Evolution or a Phrozen Sonic Revo …just better.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

A printer coming with a factory flex plate with hard-mounted magnets that sit flush with the build plate would be pretty cool.

[@RoseKindred]

I've thought of attaching magnets for a better flexplate grip, but I was always too scared of ruining the plate. This was great to watch. The gap between the plate and magnets can also help stir the resin. Look forward to a follow up later if you are still using this.

[@thedudeoffail]

Personally, I just fdm printed a new buildplate with a countersink for these magnets, and a space for a captured nut to screw into. Made life so much easier, and now I've got 2 build plates

[@farplaine]

Ok, so next iteration you should countersink the magnets into the build side of the plate so the flex plate is flat against the build plate and avoid the resin mess. Awesome concept. Not sure I’m brave enough to try for myself though

[@MisterMillennia]

This would also mean you wouldn't need the spacer, so you'd get the full build height available to you... if my printers magnet plate falls off I am going to be so tempted to give this a try...

[@farplaine]

@@MisterMillennia true enough, I’ve had exactly one print where I needed the full height but even this much magnet would have meant having to split that model

[@Snapplemonkey]

My magnet fell off after 2 prints and it was a 50 dollar purchase. I ended up removing all the leftover adhesive from the magnet, got some new glue, spread it out evenly so it was flush with the plate and got the magnet back on. I also saw a tip online to spread a thin layer of resing on the edge between the magnet and the plate and cure it. So it sealed the crack and no resin got in after that to loosen the magnet again. Now it's working fine.

[@Dark0Storm]

I did the same with my first cheap one. Gorilla glue(the original one which is resistant to ipa and loads of other chemicals) and clamps to hold it flat worked a treat - it was solid as anything

[@Mazzeltoph]

Small psa for anyone buying a flexplate that is not name-brand: i bought one off of amazon for about ten bucks, and adhesion is perfectly fine (have had it for about a year now and zero issues with sticking to the build plate with the supplied adhesive magnet) but i had a small issue where, even though it was especially made for my printer the little tab you use to peel the flex plate from the magnet was sticking out too much so every time the build plate went down for the first few layers it flexed against the side of the vat after which it cluncked down onto the fep and screen. No damage has occured but it did scrape some paint off of the vat (cheap printers might have a thin layer of paint) which ended up in the resin and gave me a couple of failed prints. Just be aware if the plate fits in the vat when mounted amd adjust it slightly diagonal to make sure you don't damage your printer 😉

[@CirclMastr]

I just checked, and I ordered a WhamBam flex plate system for my Anycubic Photon M3 Max in June of 2022. Nearly two years later, it's still going strong, with no sign of the magnet detaching from the build plate. Don't ask me how, I've no idea, I just followed the instructions for installing it and never had a problem.

[@theboredtrucker3898]

I haven't had any issues with mine either.

[@slow-moe3518]

Same here. Bought July 2022. Same printer Photon M3 Max. It's still holding and is not showing signs of pealing. And that's with me printing huge pieces.

[@Hotshot1409]

It is all about the prep put into applying the magnetic plate. I also use the WhamBam on all my machines and made sure to clean and sand the service, then apply the base and give it a few days to set while also placing weight or clamping it to allow it to adhere much better. Suggested waiting 3 days before use, but I ended up waiting an additional day.

[@FrazzledDadsMinis]

I always love your joy when you pull off something cool. Great video!

[@brucoder]

My LD-002H's all have the Wham Bam plate installed. Holding strong for over 3 years!

[@lexzbuddy]

At work, we have a 4K Mighty. I stuck a wam-bam on it over a year ago and no issue with magnet coming off. I had to sand it to help with adhesion. I did leave it for a week with a couple of heavy books on it before I showed it the resin. No proof but perhaps the week of sitting helped with long term adhesion.

[@garvinschulz1438]

I used two-part epoxy to glue the magnet of a flexplate to the buildplate. Holds perfectly since more than a year.

[@xEternalEnigmax]

What kind of epoxy? Just a standard type or is it a chemical resistant?

[@garvinschulz1438]

@@xEternalEnigmax I don't remember the brand. Nothing special

[@brandonb417]

I have a Peopoly Forge, which is pretty big, if you prep the build plate properly you can keep them from coming off. Mine has been on the build plate for over a year with no sign of coming loose.

[@Vandel212]

What might be a better solution is to use the magnetic pad that eventually peels off, but drill through it like you did with this mod, and use a counter-sink bit as well. That way you can install flat head machine screws with a cone shape head that will keep it pressed into the build plate. Do that in all of the places the magnetic pad typically peels, and I highly doubt it'll fall off.

[@RoofusKit]

What a beautiful monster in the true spirit of the 3D printing hobby. So happy your experiment didn't fail and that you didn't let anything stop you. Now, can you design an fdm spacer so the flex plate has something flush to sit against between the magnets? It should reduce your mess.

[@krzysztofkurdziel6742]

It would have to be super precise and/or filled with something like epoxy and sanded flat, so that steel flex plate hold firmly. Considering he free-handed the holes with one magnet even sticking out, I don't think it will work. And even if it did, it is a lot of work for slightly less resin drip.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Cheers! Honestly the mess isn't that big a deal, most of the resin runs off on its own if you let the print sit for a while (you can see how much was left when I remove the skimmer from the printer toward the end), and another fun mod might be something that lets you mount the build plate at an angle to help that excess run off quicker.

[@nonamo5700]

If you absolutely need a perpendicular hole drilled, you might also consider a drill block; they cost around 5 to 10 bucks (depends on brand and number of hole sizes). Pretty much a solid metal block or block with metal holes to guide your drill and keep it at 90 degrees

[@exodous02]

Coming from FDM printing I'm confused why magnetic flex plates aren't designed into SLA printers from the start. It's and old technology at this point, just design the printer around it.

[@kaharthemad]

Great idea. Looking forward to doing this myself. I would dip the bolts in locktite to keep the bolts from loosening over time

[@christopherblack67]

So I have a small farm of large format resin printers. I do like to use flex plates however I used to run into the same issue you are trying to solve. IMO the simplest solution is to simply remove the adhesive on the magnet. Thoroughly scratch the surface magnet on the side you removed the adhesive on and do the same for the build plate. After that just use a lot of superglue making sure that the entire surface is covered in superglue and allow the magnet and build plate to cure under pressure. After the superglue has fully cured trim off any glue that has oozed out. After doing that correctly. You should be good indefinitely. If you want to remove it for some reason a sharpened scrapper is your best bet. That being said this also allows you to get away from whambam and their overpriced plates.

[@user-vl8jv1tl5e]

how do that work with fumes to leave the resin in the printer? and how are your exhaust you made, doing is it enough or do you wanna upgrade later? thank

[@lechuck3337]

In FDM printing, having several magnets built into the build plate has been common for a long time. Why haven't resin printer manufacturers picked up on that yet? It's such an obvious solution.

[@Brocknoviatch]

I love the swapping of the build plate! Might give that a go, I like the four screw design better. Your magnet solution seems like it is easier to use and maintain, than a sticker magnet.

[@xXKisskerXx]

you can probably lose some of the mess if you had a typical gasket around the magnets (and entire flex plate connection area 'void') that presses gently against the flexplate and the original build plate. It doesn't need to be a super high pressure to keep more vicious liquids out - or mostly out - which will (should) drastically reduce the amount of resin that gets on top the flex plate. (and if it is connected to the build plate, you don't have to worry about removing it/cleaning it with the flex plate)

[@antongunther3977]

I think you can solve the issue with this design by making a build plate that has more magnets impregnated into the bottom. I dont think the manufacturers will find it worth the time. But if they do offer something like "BUILD PLATE +, the best magnetic build plate upgrade around" people will shell out good money for it (like I'd pay an extra $50 in addition to the cost of a normal plate)

[@ilikenothingtoo]

I never had an issue removing prints once I started using a set of pallet knives to remove prints. They're just big flexible razor blades. No need for a flex plate.

[@user-hv5ix3lv1j]

my whambam kit for phrozen 8k mini failed after 9 months , magnetic tape started to unstick from buildplate. The solution is doing some test to find the best exposure for your base , do that and you wont need any magnetic plates.

[@brandielee7971]

I use aluminum tape to affix it to my build plate. Works a treat.

[@cabe_bedlam]

I love throwing the whole plate in the cleaner and putting a second plate back on the printer and hitting go on the next print. Other than a wash and cure station, they are basically a mandatory upgrade for me!

[@Cybernetic_Systems]

Very cool mod! I’ve been thinking of putting mine into my CNC machine and drilling pockets for 20mm neodymium magnets … from the top side. And I’d leave 1mm of material on the print side and epoxy the magnets in.

[@supergiantbubbles]

The idea of a factory flat build plate with the magnets mounted from the other side has its appeal, but the pull force of a magnet decreases drastically. The pull of a magnet from 1mm away is much weaker at a distance of 1mm than it is if the magnet is touching. If you're going to mill your plate anyway, I strongly recommend milling the build surface so the magnets can directly contact the flex plate. That's what I'd do if I had the means. Of course with the way you propose you could use much thicker and stronger magnets, so you could make it work, but you'll need much larger, heavier and more expensive magnets.

[@newmonengineering]

I have been asking for years why the manufacturers dont build magnets into the plate design? It would be so much easier if it was purpose built like this to begin with. Embedded magnets is the way to go.

[@gemlord17]

My concern would be the magnet housing getting rusty. I found those magnets rust over time, especially with alcohol. Might be something to watch in the future. I had a cleaning vat fan system i left alcohol in and it destroyed the magnets. With those crease areas might make it hard to clean. Without leaving moisture.

[@lesterdarke]

Could you add a skirt to the original build-late to stop as much resin getting in-between it and the flex plate as well as maybe help locate the plate?

[@3lilmonkeys289]

You should 3d print a skirt for the magnets to prevent pooling on the backside of the flexplate.

[@UriskOfTheFae]

So glad my brother and I put a flex plate on our Mars 2 Pro. A little more difficult now that we're using the flexible Sunlu Toughness resin, though. XD We've been running it for about 6? months now, and there's a few times my ADHD ass has forgotten to put the flex plate back on before printing. (I also forgot to screw the build plate firmly onto the lift arm the other day.) So now it is required in my household that the build plate only be mounted in printing position when it is 100% ready to print. No popping off the flex plate and leaving the rest for me 😅

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Haha, happens to everyone sooner or later!

[@IcarusGames]

I ADORE the Frankenstein attitude of this, and the fact it ended up working as well as it did is amazing. I've had the literal cheapest flex plate system on my Saturn for over a year now and printed 2+ full 2,000 point armies with it and it's still going strong though. If/when it fails I'd definitely just spend the $20 to replace the flex plate, but the entire time I'll be thinking of the marvel/affront to nature that you've created here 🤣

[@Experimentb12]

I have been using mag plates for a while and my best results were sanding the plates in an "X" pattern. Everything stuck first try. Thanks for the video as always

[@PolarIcePanda]

ive had issues and failures with the flex plate shifting or sliding on the magnet during a large print. with the proper settings on a stock plate its not that hard to remove prints anyways

[@AsimPaints]

I applaud the ingenuity but lol, I just used two-part epoxy glue to permanently reattach my magnet when it started peeling. Never had an issue since.

[@Razoth0815]

will def do that when mine fails. Thanks ;)

[@KimHarderFog]

This is the best kind of Frankenstein project - love it

[@InnuendoOutTheOther]

My saturn 4 ultra is on the way and I've already got my flex plate, never leave home without one kids

[@TheLevitatingChin]

Well done! Thanks for sharing that.

[@PhallacEye]

When sanding, just leave the metal dust on the plate while you sand. It's extra abrasive material. There's no benefit to cleaning it several times. That gap between the build plate and the magnetic plate is also increasing your suction forces on the vertical moves. Not sure how that will impact things. Personally, I just used two part epoxy on the magnetic plate. It's never coming off. A replacement build plate is like $50.

[@Politov]

Looking forward to more Franken-plate builds 😂

[@HellDog001]

Thanks!

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Thank you!!

[@spuriusligustinus4509]

This was such a hassle for you and you are used to tinkering and are resourceful. Now imagine the average user and the worse ones, the ones that forget to tightnen the screws from the vat or that replace the FEP every time they have a failure do the same thing... It was interesting to watch you tinker and adapt (the switcharoo to Elegoo was funny) but I'll stick to the pallet knife and tapping at a ~ 30° angle

[@SpringfieldFatts]

I got a cheap flex plate for my photon M3 back when they first came out because it was a weird bed size and none of the big name brands had plates for them yet. It worked fine but one of the issues of the no-name brands is that the metal plate is razor sharp and I sliced my hand pretty good when cleaning it off one time. Just something to think about.

[@_Spider2077]

just use 4 one at each corner and also the magnetic strip use superglue to glue to the bed thats what i did when i build my own flex beds 2 years ago, used putty knifes to make flex bed out of

[@Dubious.Bovine]

Perfect timing, my magnetic sheet gave up the ghost just yesterday.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Damn, well hope this works for you too. Good luck!

[@ultimatedude80]

Sir you spoil us 2 videos in a week always happy to see more of your stuff (i mainly do fdm but one day once I get a bigger place will get into resin so its not in my room when I print) but love learning this stuff

[@xEternalEnigmax]

Would using a chemical resistant epoxy to adhear the whambam magnet to the build plate be easier?

[@JameTek]

Rad mod. Very rad and really cool and unique. That said, there is no way I'm ever doing that much work, haha!

[@3dPrintingMillennial]

Well... I wasted a lot of money on flex plates only to have them eventually fall off for the same reason. Then I came across a comment that changed my life... So I'll pass on the same info/advice... Get a UV flashing/UV curing light handy. Next take a syringe and fill it with some good quality resin. Gently add a line of filament along the edge of the magnet plate and the plate. Cure that line. Repeat for the other 4 edges. Do it 2 or more times to ensure you've gotten every single hole so nothing can seep in. If you do it right, it will last indefinitely. Mine has been on for at least a year now.

[@GregAtlas]

Might have to try this with the Mega 8k since it comes with the holes built into the plate. Just need to find a flex plate big enough since wham bam doesn't make any large enough.

[@irishology]

Thanks

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Thank you kind sir!

[@dodobarbar]

At 1:41 A new tilt mechanism.... A new... buuuuuaaaa hahah. Well sir you are certainly new to resin printing. But keep going we all had to start somewhere.

[@nicolaswinkler4545]

Does anyone have problems with the suction forces causing the flex plate shifting during prints causing layer lines?

[@Scotrox]

Might do this with my Phrozen Mighty!

[@SplotchyInk]

OH My problem is that after a bit, I've had the magnet adhere to the metal spring steel. There's literally chunks of magnet missing from my build plate because it just glued itself to the metal spring steel.

[@DavidClunie]

Do you need to drill the holes? The magnets would seem to be sufficient I would think

[@ruudvantiel725]

I actually did a similar mod, but just print a custom holder that fills the space between the magnets and the main base, voila no more drawbacks

[@seattime4075]

Add a drop of thread lock to stop the nuts from ever coming lose, or use nylock nuts.

[@ravenous14]

I'm surprised embedded magnets aren't a thing on resin printers yet, there's no heat involved that would decrease magnetic force so it's a no brainer

[@sykodmon]

Love the video, but I don't care for flex plates. However the mod to put the Anycubic plate on a Saturn... mind blowing. I am not a fan of my Saturn 2 plate with 2 bolts. Now I have something to look into for an upgrade.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

It is pretty cool! The mono X build plate isn't quite as large though so you do lose some build volume.

[@Kimaen-jai-Sheelal]

welp, if my two-tress flex plate fail me on my 6kxs, i probably will drill some holes. Thanks for the video!

[@richardrussell7082]

F in chat @7:41 RIP

[@ThantiK]

Magnetic build plates _suck_ so hard for resin printing -- resin always gets into the area with the adhesive, allowing the magnet to detach. The resin just isn't compatible with the adhesive. I hope more people move to this method.

[@supergiantbubbles]

Maybe it depends on the resin and/or how the magnet is applied. Plenty of commenters on here describing using a magnetic flex plate without issue for years. That said, an array of mechanically connected neodymium magnets is superior to magnetic sheet, especially if using strong solvents to clean the build plate.

[@anthonymiller4133]

There is a product in the states called JB Weld you could you to secure it to the plate without the need to drill holes

[@SpentAmbitionDrain]

Make a temporary boarder and flood this with plastic-like 2 part resin to the level of the magnets.

[@_SHaDoW6_]

CNC the magnets into the build plate, then it will be golden!!

[@Nuds1223]

I know this is a bit of a specialized tooling but getting a tap and tapping the holes would allow you to avoid needing to counter bore the backside. Also I would like to see you specifically printing small prints in between the magnets to see if the lack of support there would lead to flexing in the plate and weirdness with the print. Love the DIY testing and that quick thinking of swapping the assembly to another printer was brilliant.

[@wolflittlepsycho3437]

Also did you hear the drill? It sounds like hammer mode for drilling concrete. :D

[@supergiantbubbles]

A high quality drill guide, tap and drill bit can be bought for less than $50. I just purchased those items and some countersunk magnets to do something similar to this on one of my printers. I'll be printing a spacing jig to mark my drill holes precisely and then a piece to go around the magnets so there's no space around them so the flex plate won't get resin between it and the build plate.

[@Velasc]

My whambam xtr magned melted and fused with the bed after a year. :) Spare magnet is not that expensive but still.

[@SetaDragon]

Good idea. Bit too much work since my wambams tend to last a year before I have to re-add some glue. Amazed that the anycubic fits on the saturn. Makes me wonder if they are being made out of the same parts.. Wait is there a secret 3d printer cabal that only gives us the illusion of choice!!! 🤯

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Haha shh, don't expose the cabal. Thanks for the tip!

[@kelseyhurst9408]

Great video, but I exclusively print in tough flexible for warhammer/clumsy. So no flex plate for me.

[@weaselwolf]

I feel like you should have put test rafts between the magnets instead of directly on top of them if it's going to fail it should be where the plate isn't supported and could probably flex and slide

[@ger5956]

I think I’m gonna have to try this, might need to order a sacrificial build plate just to mess around with! 🤔

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Good luck!

[@ypzmkx4]

you could print a frame around the magnets so the resin wont go on top of the plate.

[@NoMercyFtw]

When I first got into resin printing I thought this mod was silly and a waste of money, and I'm glad I didn't get one cause my prints come off with a plastic spatula once you dial in your resin you know the settings are perfect everytime.

[@Scribbinge]

This feels like a lot of effort to address a negligible problem. A properly tuned bottom exposure time and a plastic razor blade serves me just fine lol.

[@supergiantbubbles]

If you're printing large, flat structural mechanical parts a flex plate may be the only option, especially depending on the resin. Not everyone prints the same sort of things.

[@Adam_Lynn]

Forget flex plates and messing about with magnets. Wash your whole build plate with alcohol or water depending on resin type then run it under super hot water, prints will come off super easy and you will get zero damage to your build plate. I started printing a few months ago and killed my first build plate in 30 or 40 prints because I couldn't get the prints to come off without taking chunks out of my build plate. My second build plate has now done 150-200 prints and still looks like it is brand new.

[@Xera1]

Or just calibrate your bottom layer exposure so you don't need to do any of this. Prints should pop off very easily with proper setup. How do you deal with all the contaminated water waste?

[@wingwalker007]

I had nothing bit problems with a magnetic flex plate on my Mars 2 pro. I took it off and have had great prints (generally) ever after. I wouldn’t advise anyone to put a flex plate on.

[@LSOP-]

Like for the KZbin gods, comment for the algo.

[@3DJapan]

All of my resin printers have Wham Bam flexi plates. I have a new big one coming and I'm already thinking about how annoying it will be until I get one for it.

[@yamiyugi9654]

I'm definitely going to try this on my Phrozen Sonic mega. There's already holes in the build plate so I shouldn't even have to drill

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

[@theboredtrucker3898]

6:15 Leaving the plate attached to the magnet as you install is wild. Also i think your overlooking the appeal of the anycubic build plate on an elegoo. Thats the complaint i see most often with Elegoo, the two screw ball mount, so if you can replace that a lot of people will be interested.

[@awildtomappeared5925]

elegoo gave us 4 screws with the s3u but its awful, for many if you apply even pressure while tightening it ends up low in the same corner every time

[@OnceinaSixSide]

I agree, the 4 point levelling has always been a pain in the ass. I absolute love the simplicity of the spring loaded ball joint. Home, tighten, done.

[@awildtomappeared5925]

@@OnceinaSixSide the best system is the gk2, and other systems where you have two vertical screws in each corner, an upper and lower limit. with this type of leveling instead of having to relevel you can just see what corners are high/low and adjust the screws slightly. If you are trying to get really level for direct printing any other method is a pain in the ass. Oh and the new s4 spring system just seems to give up on leveling entirely so it will print layers but they won't be correct at all so it will be garbage for direct printing imo.

[@Jetwow135]

V2 counter sink the magnets so they are flush to the plate

[@wolflittlepsycho3437]

Just use sharpened scraper... flex plate? Nice to have for large prints or flat prints, btu Have you ever printed really thin things with 0.10 supports? You flex that that plate and ruin your print with it. :D Sharpened scraper is not the Elegoo one, I sharpened scrapers for Prusa for about 3 years before they changed the budget and left the idea, but we had special duo angle grind with rounded corners for FDM (not damaging the Build Tak film) and then SLA (resin) one that is similar but with better angle and razor sharp. It gets under the prints with no force at all. One sided (chisel) grind digs into build plate or your print, depends on the side you use, double bevel slides and glides. We tested so many types, picked the best of the worst IT guys to use it, to find any issues with it. :D

[@zaq405]

2 questions. Why not use shop rag and why not tap the holes? You seemed to have done things the hard way.

[@madeizo]

Doesn't severals super strong magnet so close to a screen fck with it ?

[@The-Anathema]

Should've measured the magnet holes instead of just laying out and marking with a sharpie, that way they'd be perfectly aligned instead of one being a bit proud of the edge. EDIT: Printing directly on the magnets is pretty cheeky, it maximises the odds of a successful print but I'd really want to see what happens if you print a smaller print on the 'air space' instead, a small print will risk flexing the build plate into the void, a large print should not have this issue since it applies the pressure more evenly. I think this void could lead to potential print instabilities. So I think a redo of the bases but 6 bases centered on the voids would be better than 9 bases centered on the magnets.

[@NorthernLightSouth]

You mentioned not to use shop towels but use regular paper towels. Why is that? Also, is that for installing the magnet plate only, or do you also advice to use paper towels for cleaning the stock build surface without usning a flex plate? I ask because I use shop towels mostly… Thanks for the great video!

[@OnceinaSixSide]

This is something Whambam advise on their instructions, and I believe its to completely remove any chance of rogue debri or oil that might be present in something like a shop rag from getting between the build plate and the magnet. Fresh paper towels are a pretty sure-fire way to rule out these contaminates.

[@AFV85]

I print 24/7 have 2 Saturn 3 ultras and a Saturn 2 8k never found the need for a flex plate, never ever broke a print never use the metal scraper on your prints simple as that! If there taking that amount of force to come off your place your bottom exposure is way to long!

[@grubbie8614]

I just wish I could print anything right now. Been having prints stick to the FEP in the same place for about a month now, no matter what I've done they still stick.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Damn. I'm guessing you've tried increasing your burn in time and sanding the build plate?

[@imdeaded]

Dude. Can you over engineer my toilet seat?

[@elliot3147]

I have a any cubic max m3 with a magnetic build plate. The magnet is fine.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Awesome!

[@anthonyalbanese1993]

Maybe the magnets have gotten better, but I never trusted these removable plates. At least with the types of models or how packed my plates end up being, they end up lifting in the center or edges causing really bad distortions in the prints or total failures. Not all the time, but often enough I stopped using them. And this wasn't even a large build plate printer. I loved the convenience; when it worked. Something I would worry about with your "upgrade" is over time the build plate warping because of uneven forces between the magnets being at 6 points and suction forces being everywhere. Basically, I can't see how the plate would stay flat over time. I would be worried over time you might inadvertently break the LCD or scratch the FEP with warped edges.

[@bora773]

I never understood what these plates are supposed to help with. my prints come off the plate with minimal pressure and having the plate drip all over th eplace is for sure not preferable. People that fuse their models to the plate with 30+s exposure probably... I liked how you frankensteined that thing though! :-)

[@gionmanetsch7330]

Well. How do we get manufacturers to integrate strong magnets directly into the print plate ? This would be the better solution.

[@youtubevanced4900]

I can't help but feel a level of smugness when someone says don't cheap out, use 99%. But I've always just used 100% from Sydney Solvents since it's only $30 for 5 litres.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

I only say that because one of the things I see again and again is people struggling to clean their prints thoroughly when using only 70% IPA. So in an application like this where its mission critical you get every last bit cleaned off, you gotta go with 99%

[@MrBizteck]

I must of been lucky. Twice Ive installed a cheapo Magnetic plate I didnt do half as many precautions. 4 years no failures. My printers are both Mars though so small printers.

[@MrBizteck]

I think I waited about 2 hours before starting a print.