@FauxHammer check this out! Your resin performed really well! Validated the reasons for which I initially purchased it.

lol talking with the creality reps 6mo ago about features that their competitors are putting out today.. 😳😆

WHY is a LIQUID being sold in KILOS!????

A question for you that may be down to my resin... I have an Elegoo Mars 2 pro, I'm using their regular resin which is a little past its best before date, by.. about six months. I'm still getting prints out of my grey, transparent red and transparent green, but some of my models are coming out looking sort of melted, on the side facing the build plate. Could this be the resin's age? Too cold perhaps? Maybe its my supports, or maybe I'm not letting it hang long enoug for the excess to run off before the next layer is cured? Its driving me nuts -.-

Hello, did you have a chance to try a plant based resin? I've recently started 3d printing and since I'm new I decided to start with a plant based resin for it's lower toxicity, but I didn't find any video online comparing that to a classic resin, so I've wondered if I would get better result with a different one. Many thanks :D

Give the Sunlu ABS Like water washable a try. I've had good results so far.

Look into Siraya Sculpt. Don’t know if all “high detail” resins are like this, but it uses a much higher pigment concentration that increases detail sharpness due to less light bleed. I’d assume that’s what “8k” resin is.

if your feed back was 6 month ago they probably did not had the time to acctualy do something with it

Thank you for the detailed video! and keep it up!

Great design thnx i´ll use it

Where is this new version of the Cones of Calibration? Their website has a download page with the new version pictured but when you click download it is the old version.

Hey, just a suggestion but I use a 3/4 inch chisel ground putty knife to remove prints. It is a little flexible and is sharp enough to get under the prints.

The various 3D printer manufacturers remind me of the car industry. They are both slow to add features people are willing to pay aftermarket companies a lot for. Things like alarms, remote start, running boards etc were never stock items. Self-leveling, multiple exposure tests, wireless printing etc are finally starting to be "stock" items.

Bull marketing->I had the same though and have went for resin based on my other preferences, ie water washable or durability.

I have found that ZMud is complete trash so I was not surprised at your findings.

Not adding to the video. But the sunlu bottle has the opening offset. When you pour from it you should have the bottle opening as high as you can. Turn the bottle around 180° and you find it pours better. It's designed like a bottle of oil for your car.

returning in the hoby after 2 years break, glad you are still making good vids

Hey man I know we aren't as big as you but we did for this exact purpose is start a new channel, we used to do our reviews on our main channel but that was the biggest thing holding us back last year. Now we have WAYPN reviews www.youtube.com/@WAYPNReviews We think its better because it's more personal to the members of our group. You do you, but it's just a suggestion and we have had experience with it before, that is the only reason we suggest it. We think you do great stuff and we like that you do reviews of peoples stuff. Anyway all the best, and good luck with it

Can you mix resins? Perhaps blend a high-end resin with something more affordable?

Love it when a review vid justifies what im already doing! 🎉 Huzzah for Sunlu

Wargamer trying to get into the mainstream market with a Heygears price tag ain't smart. What was with the intermittent holes in the texture test?

What does "8K resolution" for a physical product even mean?

I just got myself the Elegoo Saturn 3 (Upragede from my old Mars) and I would love to get the test prints you used to calibrate your Printer. Where can I find them?

Testing starts at eight minutes in

Something that I'm not 100% sure was mentioned is if there's a temperature difference when filling up your vat mid-print, make sure the resin you're adding isn't too much colder than the resin in the vat, for example if you have a vat heater and you're adding resin on a cold day, drop the bottle into some hot water (not boiling), to at least bring it up past the temperatures specified in the video, that way you don't bring down the temperature of the vat too drastically and potentially cause layer adhesion issues

Should've measured the magnet holes instead of just laying out and marking with a sharpie, that way they'd be perfectly aligned instead of one being a bit proud of the edge. EDIT: Printing directly on the magnets is pretty cheeky, it maximises the odds of a successful print but I'd really want to see what happens if you print a smaller print on the 'air space' instead, a small print will risk flexing the build plate into the void, a large print should not have this issue since it applies the pressure more evenly. I think this void could lead to potential print instabilities. So I think a redo of the bases but 6 bases centered on the voids would be better than 9 bases centered on the magnets.

wild video! good work, we appreciate you!

I'd like to argue that the models all feature various imperfections such as not sitting flat against the table, some dimensional skewing over their total print length (the stance on some of the space marines and beast hunters vary notably between photos when compared side by side) etc. I'd be interested in seeing what the total dimensional inaccuracy is for each of the print batches, relative to each other (and relative to what the slicer reports as correct), the calibration tests came out good but some of these resins clearly had better dimensional stability than others.

First video I've seen from this creator. Loved the honesty. I shamefully admit that despite having been a printer for about 6 years now I've never heard of a RERF. I found the link to get the anycubic one up and running, but did he mention there was one for elegoo also?

I did same test for myself. And you are 100% right. I even printed on different resolution machines 4k 8k and 14 K. I have compared Sunlu abs, jamghe abs, elegoo 8k, Sunlu 14k, promes it and I didn't spot difference comparing side by side.

Amazing video! Thanks for testing this stuff so that we don’t have to.

People who think liquids have resolution/granularity beyond the here irrelevant molecular level deserve to be ripped off. It's not as if anyone without disposable income is buying any of this anyways.

Thanks for the vid... some silliness to trigger the algorithm .. Where do we get the STL's for the bunnies?

I love the sunlu ABS juice. stuff prints well and actually feels nice and flexy when it's cured. Dunno about accuracy but not sure who cares about that in a tabletop setting

my whambam kit for phrozen 8k mini failed after 9 months , magnetic tape started to unstick from buildplate. The solution is doing some test to find the best exposure for your base , do that and you wont need any magnetic plates.

what pisses me off about current printers more than the lack of tuning modes, is the crappy reservoir design that doesn't allow you to pour resin without having it spill everywhere.

seeing you use an xacto knife to take prints off hte plate is horrific.

There may be a point in the future where the size off the color pigments will be limiting the resolution off a resign, but I think that will be take some time.

Since light (in a specific wavelength band) is used to cure the resin and it must have a certain transparency allowing a "depth" to be cured it will boil down to the scattering effects in the resin versus the possible depth of cure. This is because apart from the depth, the scattering will cause curing sideways from the intended location as well. Reducing the "resolution" or sharpness in all 3 axis.

Great video. Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it in the comments, or you're already aware of it, but UVTools has an an exposure finder that should work with any printer. I have one set up with 10 different exposures at 0.2s intervals, will find two of the best and then print the Amera town and a few other test models at the best one and 0.1s either side. That 0.1s can make a difference, but not enough for details at arms length. I've been using Sunlu ABS like with my Mars 3 Pro as it's cheap and reliable, won't switch unless I find something else better at the same price.

Wouldn't it have been easier to swap out to one of those other machines with calibration features, then to do all that extra work? Your stated reason for using the printer ill-suited for the task is that it was already on the bench.

Is it weird that they are all sold by kg rather than by liter? I buy ham by the pound, but milk by the gallon.

I 3d print and my biggest warning is that the hobby will slowly toxify your printer room. I left a vat of resinous isopropyl alcohol for over a year and when I opened it, I had to ventilate the whole house! Pure mustard gas.

Very good info, I still havent made the swtich to resin printing yet so good info.

Thanks a lot for your work for the community! Personally, beside the resistance of the résine, a test I would be happy to see is how close a resin comes to be kibashed like plastic. Like cuting it and so on

Have you tried reusable nitrile gloves? They're a bit thicker so you lose a bit of feel but you just rinse them in your IPA bath and they're good to go again. Saves a ton of cash and waste.

Where did you get the UV lamp from? (I'm also in Australia) Also great vid!

Great content and great value

What a Moron. Even in Jest. You should have clarified that you were joking and DO NOT DRINK resin as it's Toxic.

Thank fuck I'm not the only one that had issues with aqua 8k. I thought I was nuts