Fixing The WORST Thing About My 3D Printer With Home Assistant

I love my Bambulab X1 Carbon, it's an amazing printer! But there is one major flaw with the included light that I think impacts the experience of using it, so today I want to fix that flaw with some smart home tech, and get it integrated into Home Assistant using one of my ESP32 controllers, some LED strips and WLED!
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[@EverythingSmartHome]

What about that before and after huh!? 🤤 This was really fun to work on, hope you enjoyed it (even if you don't have a 3D printer!) and looking forward to tackling more projects soon!

[@sunnygalli]

FYI there is a warning from Bambu Labs that they will encrypt MQTT in a future firmware update. This would stop the Bambu integration.

[@WolfwithSword]

@@sunnygalli This should only stop the requests to the printer, so stuff like turning on/off the light, fans, running gcode, controlling the print or printer or fetching requested data on request. All reported sensor data (such as what's needed for this specific automation) should still work if they're bambu is truthful about it. This data for X1 series is currently reported in full every 1s in a single topic.

[@maxmustermann194]

The dim LED is by design because bright light would inhibit the Lidar measurements. They could've done a brighter LED with auto dimming during Lidar operation however.

[@PedroLiberal]

FYI it's not 784 leds per meter. They are counting the R G B and W individually. So it's actually 784 divided by 4, if you want to compare it to the usual 144 led strips. Or you have to multiply the 144 by 3 for it to be comparable (if RGB only). Hope this helps!

[@neoKushan]

FYI the Lidar does now work with the textured PEI plate. It was added as an experimental feature to Firmware 01.06.00.00. It is caveated that it doesn't always work but I've not had any issues switching it on now.

[@taddyj6817]

Rooting the cables through! Love when the Scotsman comes out.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

😂

[@keekje]

I literally used the same riser last week on my Bambu P1S. A fantastic solution to add more light! I just unplugged in the current light and got a strip that connects to the old light port. That way the light is controllable via de Bambu apps and the printer itself.

[@taylorr2164]

Genius! Thanks for sharing this idea

[@JuliuszMaciejewski]

What light strip did you use for that?

[@keekje]

​ @JuliuszMaciejewski I used one from aliexpress with number 1005005873305547 (enter in the search). Its a bit to long for this specific riser but you can cut off the end the make it fit. Make sure you align it first before taping it down so you know you got the correct length.

[@WolfwithSword]

Great work! I have something similar using my nodered -> homeassistant integration for the printer instead, but for the lights I did some basic COB as I was using ESPHome with some PWM controllers to control it (and a bento-box) automatically. Nice to automate turning on the bentobox filtration fans when ABS/ASA are printing. Careful with COB strips though, I found after a year and a half, the printed parts I had the strips mounted to started to warp (PETG and ABS). Also tip for lighting in timelapses - since you can control brightness, I would suggest keeping brightness lower until the layer changes from 0-1 (finished all calibrations) after a 1-5s wait. Reason is this is when the camera locks in its exposure settings, so if you want brighter timelapses, increase brightness after this point.

[@wchorski]

glad to see these step by step with narration videos.

[@leemarsh5258]

Fantastic video, thanks. I just completed this on my X1C and all working great. For anyone who needs a longer AMS cable to butcher I can confirm the long 6 pin they sell also works fine and the wire colours are the same as Lewis found, however always check! I used an Athom WLED controller (flashed to the latest WLED + Sound Reactive firmware) for convenience with a 3D printed case that I popped some magnets in which attach to the back metal plate of the printer without command strips etc.

[@brendanm720]

I did something similar with my Voron Trident -- but I had a 5V PSU in there already which made life really easy. I had some leftover 60/m SK6812 5V lights from my TV back lights, and an Adafruit ESP32 QT Py. I extended the wires up to the top extrusion and used some clips that you can slide onto the strip and clip into the T-Slot extrusion. They work really well, and I'm pretty happy with them. When a print succeeds, I've got the chamber lights set up to do "1D Fireworks" for a few minutes before shutting off. When the chamber is heat soaking, they "Breathe" red.

[@BenGoldNYC]

That Bambu lab home assistant add on is wild, love how easy it was to set up

[@soemid]

Nice. Have been waiting for a video with home assistant and you Bambu lab. Hope you find some awesome automation ideas I can steal

[@cmdbill]

I literally just lit my office with the 3000k version. Super happy with that specific model from BTF. The connector kits are a must for long runs as they are solderless

[@rodneysmith1750]

Fantastic video and super super timely for me. I don't have a Bambu printer but a Creality K1 Max that also suffers a manufacturer stupidity example with the interior lighting. You have pointed me off on my next Home Assistant automation project with LED lighting for my newest 3D printer and Home Assistant toy! Now off to research and order some of those fancey LEDs you discussed. Thanks for the kick in the butt!

[@antoniosa]

Many time I didn’t see your videos. Welcome do 3D world. I really love your reviews and comments ! ❤

[@fanaticdavid]

You have definitely inspired me to put extra lighting on top of my X1C now! Well done 😂

[@EverythingSmartHome]

It's worth it! 😅

[@riaanpretorius8184]

I had a bit of an irritation with the led light as well, but more because it would not switch off after a print job, but the bambu integration and home automation to the rescue. Just created an automation that on print finiish it switches off the led light

[@kevinschilling6813]

I found the supplied light lame as well.. so I did the same as you. Designed my own riser, used COB LEDs added a front mounted led on/off switch, and quick disconnect terminal. Just in case.. all the wiring runs inside the machine back to the MB and draws power from there. Yes it was a huge pain, but well worth it in the end.. As an added bonus, the control leads and filament feed have plenty of room now!

[@laserguidedbrick]

Thanks - Works great with my P1S👍

[@gixrman]

My X1 carbon arrives tomorrow and this honestly will be the first mod. So much useful info. Excuse me while I go spend more $$.

[@junkins]

What an awesome video! Very, very interesting and I think I have found my new 3D printer. 😊 Thanks Lewis!

[@EverythingSmartHome]

I'm becoming a very bad influence on you it seems 🤣

[@caedis_]

I love being able to control my Voron Trident almost entirely from home assistant. Can also always just embed an of my printer's web interface

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Nice 🙌🏻

[@brendanm720]

Same. It's fantastic. I've even got node red sending me a text with a photograph of the print every 10%.

[@danielwolman]

ive done this same mod on my p1s. except i used a plugged in strip as i had no idea that length of integration you can go to. have you got a link to the under AMS storage youve printed?

[@AndyDavis007]

Nice 😎 👍 thanks for sharing your journey, man.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Thanks for sharing!

[@nurgledave]

Great video love tinkering with my printers

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Glad you enjoyed it! 🙏🏻

[@RobBzReef]

Thanks for this. I'm still waiting for my compute module to arrive, but the LEDs were mad flickering when set to white and using anything over 50% brightness and alternate colors flash.

[@egomatthisum]

Regarding the LED-Density of the COB strips: i remember reading somewhere that the 720 leds/m is if you count each "subpixel" so in this case r,g,b and nw individually. This would mean, that the density is rather comparable to a 180 led/m strip (still a lot more, but should be kept in mind).

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Thanks for the explanation, today I learned!

[@jacobsecor5015]

BTW, just set this all up and it seems the blueprint actually turns the lights off for the lidar portion automatically. Excellent guide and great inspiration for my printer!

[@kodywillnauer9422]

This is so cool. I can this all be easily done if not wiring lighting into the machine from the wall plug? I assume the answer is yes. I’ve just never tinkered with wiring. I love my x1c

[@PatrickBulteel]

That looks really cool. Have you done any videos on the Bambulab X1? That might be my next purchase...

[@EverythingSmartHome]

I haven't no, I'm not that experienced with 3D printers so there are probably much better channels to give recommendations than I would be qualified to give 😅

[@PatrickBulteel]

@@EverythingSmartHome I was thinking it's simply a non-sponsored product review. In the context of how it integrates with HA, benefits, costs, dislikes, from the point of ... a user.

[@MichaelFetting]

Thanks for the video

[@marcusone1]

I will also be curious as to how this may affect chamber temp, and if the LEDs come unstuck or burn out as they have no heat sink.

[@dfgdfg_]

Wonder if they have thought it would be disruptive to be brighter? Nice mod!

[@HarrisonDavies]

I did the same thing, but connected the strip directly to hidden USB port behind the monitor. Always on, but meets my needs.

[@pfurrie]

Cool project! Question: Since the new lights are powered by the printer power supply, they won't be working when the printer is turned off (duh). One problem I have with my X1C is how dark it is when I'm changing out the print head. I guess I can power this mod from a separate power supply so, even with the printer turned off (as I do when changing the print head), I can see.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

That's a fair comment, I would probably just use an external light in that instance since it would be very infrequently I would personally do that versus the convenience of it all in one, but both ways are an option!

[@marcel40625]

You could also use a PCB made by the community called "Power TAP" so connect inbetween the AMS/Printer and get an DC Plug :)

[@Charlielx]

I did something similar, but I just hijacked the native LED connection inside the chamber. Lights aren't as smart as they would be with this setup, but I am still able to control them through Home Assistant using the Bambu plugin with the default LED control.

[@mechrekt]

Thank you for yout video! Next step is upgrading stock camera with something better.. maybe raspy camera?

[@Samuel-eu1ts]

Also, you can get those COB strips in 8 and 5 mm width, but they are a pain to find (especially the 5 mm). Maybe I'm wrong, but it looks like yours are addressable blocks of LEDs, if so, you can also get individual addressable LEDs, I have a 5m strip of addressable LEDs that have a 160/m density. Nice idea to use them as status lights, I've done the same with octoprint and a LiFX bulb, but it's a bit more annoying to do.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

You can get thinner ones yes but I didn't see any others thinner that matched everything else I was looking for. They could definitely exist though!

[@iliadimitrov1457]

After putting the lights do you have some problems white the auto bed levelling

[@mongbio]

Yeah, that built in LED strip is pretty bad. I also did a similar mod to mine, it was the second mod I did, after printing out a hose adapter for my ventilation setup. I also added a zigbee door sensor to the front door, so I could control the lights by opening/closing the door too. That community Bambu integration is amazing.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Nice one, sounds great!

[@maddingamer1649]

Just found out the X1C has a built in door sensor which is displayed in HA

[@mongbio]

Whaddaya know, there it is... @@maddingamer1649

[@codywetzel112]

Any plan to run the X1Plus firmware?

[@deltacx1059]

First world problems, I'm stuck with a used cr 10 max, might try and build one of those tronxy kits

[@lNOFXlCronier]

Nice! (hehehe) hey, I seen in the video wled is turning on to its default orange glow with power. I'm sure you know you can set the default power on state. This way you can have the lights in the proper colour temperature when you turn on the printers switch.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Yeah I did indeed already do that 😅 thanks though!

[@clairerovic]

Thanks heaps, for me it was about what printer to get. Everything else was a bonus

[@EverythingSmartHome]

If it's a first printer you may want to look into something like the Bambulab P1P or P1S if you want the same quality but much cheaper price if you want to see if it's for you

[@DIYtechie]

I have the Bambu Lab P1S w AMS, and I can’t help thinking there must be a way to add a strip without adding a riser. Just a short strip on the front pointing back would be enough.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Yeah I would prefer the stealthier look if possible too but it sticks out much less IRL than I thought and isn't really noticeable after a few mins at least for me!

[@DIYtechie]

@@EverythingSmartHome I was actually considering sticking them to the underside of the AMS, but dont know about the heat. Very cool colour integration you made in any case 😊👍🏻

[@TheSolderingGuy007]

Excellent Video ! The link to "3D Printed Riser" model is not working. Can you please check it ?

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Added new link!

[@SimonBetty]

I don't have a 3D printer, or need one, however I really enjoyed this video!!

[@EverythingSmartHome]

I really appreciate that, glad it was enjoyable

[@MichaelFetting]

Can someone tell me the hole size and position for the mounting of the ESP-32 PoE Board? I'm guessing m3.5 with a 1mm offset from the edge of the board.

[@m4rt1st3]

The thing that makes objects hard to see, is that most elements of the printer are coated in dark colour. An easy improvement, why not coat anything that could be coated in white. Myself I find the printer expensive enough and the solution proposed on this video, would add to the price of the printer.

[@elmonte7834]

Lewis, the user experience with Bambu requires a connection to their servers. Do they have access to your camera feed and the things you are printing? What options are there to go private and local without having to resort to a physical SD card? And what stops Bambu from doing a myQ?

[@EverythingSmartHome]

It doesn't require an internet connection if you don't want to, the LAN only mode has been around for a while now

[@nickjeffrey8050]

£2 light from Ali express that connects to the original led connection on the motherboard.

[@jackallen3994]

Can you provide the 3D file for the case that holds the WLED Controller?

[@marcusone1]

Can also just use standard micro fit 3.0 2x3 connector (2x2 for A1). But love the point for people that may not want to make custom wires to just grab the cheapest from Bambi and cut. Their spare parts are very reasonably priced

[@Ayce47]

You really want to have it mounted with channels for the strip. The adhesive will not last long due to high temperature fluctuations. So either buy auto grade adhesive, or modify the design to add channels. This is a big reason why in the automotive industry the dashboard leds are on PEI boards and not on flexible strips. That, and also thermal expansion is actually big enough on it's own to mess the adhesive up.

[@robert.wigley]

Wowsa! That's one hell of a project! How long did it take for you to figure all that out? What happened to your Prusa? I'd be interested to see a video comparing the two printers.

[@thijsdejong726]

I have the textured plate, and lidar works fine for me.

[@ftrueck]

Where can I find the 3D Model for the LED strip frame?

[@EverythingSmartHome]

In the description

[@RobBzReef]

Brilliant

[@tleveque]

Can you add the link to the 3d model you used? This is the only one missing

[@EverythingSmartHome]

In the description :)

[@taylorr2164]

Does this increase the noice of the printer?

[@uSlackr]

Sweet. How do I convince my wife I need this 3d toaster?!?

[@MoistDreams]

Hot glue will not keep anything in-place if you print at the maximum chamber temps enclosed honestly you are going to need to fix them down printing some RGB strip clips a diffusing bar would could also work well if you can design one to replace that square.

[@wileu]

You will have a problem with the lifespan of the led strips. Besides, I guarantee that the frame under the leds will start to deform from the heat from the led strips (raised by the chamber temperature).

[@glenndhooge6787]

So since when is it easer to cut a cable and figuring out the conficuration of the wires then to find/ cut/ drill a small hole to route all the necessary cables through. not talking about hiding the esp inside, just the power cable

[@I_Do_Not_Know_What_I_am_Doing]

Please report back on any side effects of your upgrade, to see if there is interference with the LIDAR, etc.

[@daveballard8673]

It's a nonissue for me. I mostly print PLA, so I took off the lid. It prints pretty well. So well, I don't need to watch it print. I actually put tape over the logo on the print head so there would be less light spilling into the room.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

So you would be happy to print for 24 hours straight and never check the progress?

[@daveballard8673]

@@EverythingSmartHome If I had a 24 hour print, I would check several times during the print. I would turn on the light, make sure everything is still looking good, and then turn off the light. After I got my X1C, I tell people I no longer have a 3D printing hobby. I have a 3D printing appliance. I don't try to make my laser jet printer faster; and I don't have to baby sit my 3D. Turns out, this is just the way I like it.

[@xmine08]

Tip: That exact LED strip can be had from AliExpress for about half.

[@joeking433]

The camera could be better as well. Especially in the A1.

[@dandixonus]

I've added a motion sensor inside the X1 to turn on the X1 light (via the Home Assistant X1 integration) when you open the door. This also turns on the added lightstrip (via a similar automation in Home Assistant to what you showed). Be sure the motion sensor won't hit the bed when it goes all the way down. I'm using a Hue motion sensor up against the wall on the left side of the printer which is thin enough to fit.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

That's a pretty interesting idea thanks!

[@mongbio]

I basically did that by using a Zigbee window/door sensor on the front door. Then used Home Assistant to have the lights come on/off with the door opening/closing - with an exception for when the printer is on.

[@maddingamer1649]

@@mongbio just found out the X1C has a built in door sensor! At least the HA-integration has one that works somehow.

[@mongbio]

That's awesome, and thank you! It's great the Bambu community integration has continued to be maintained. @@maddingamer1649

[@sundance2005]

Maybe they skimped on the light so they could use a better camera ..Oh that's right the camera sucks too. Like you said minor nick picks, the printer prints great.

[@michaelthompson657]

where do you get your esp32 boards from in the uk?

[@EverythingSmartHome]

I use the ones we make and sell on the shop now but previously just Amazon!

[@michaelthompson657]

@@EverythingSmartHome no problem, thanks. I’ll take a look

[@Raymond.Jansen]

The 3D model and even the user are gone from MakerWorld. Does anyone still have the model and is willing to share, or does anyone know a different model which would work?

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Fixed link in description!

[@Raymond.Jansen]

@@EverythingSmartHome Thank you so much!

[@Bagpipebrad]

Works great until they encrypt everything like they said they will do soon. Don't update firmware on the printer before checking release notes.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

I'm still on the version before they started locking down downgrading 😅

[@tablatronix]

If you are going for light levels, I would not use anything programmable and definitely not cob. Anyone know what connector that is? Looks maybe automotive. This vid just sold me on a x1 and an esp32poe, nice kit and those docs!

[@NMOBrien]

I have had an Ender 3 with a BigTree replacement board and a BL-Touch sitting in an enclosure for years. Once the bed was levelled, I've never had to touch it. It prints perfectly every time... I see no need to replace it.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

I have MK3s which was my primary machine, prints perfectly every time too. Just much slower and things move on. It's still a great machine

[@hicamajig]

Another option available is the BL LED mod by Dutch Developer. Really dig the idea of piggybacking off the AMS for power tho.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Yep that one is super cool too!

[@Mr_Gadge]

Oh, the same BLLED that dumped all its esp8266 customers that backed it early on last summer? Mine worked like a month, two at best. Promises of firmware etc to be told nah, not helping there. binned. Really not impressed with two months of fob offs.

[@hicamajig]

​@@Mr_Gadge I don't own one but from what I can see looks like Bambu pushed an update that makes the MQTT message buffer too large on X1C so the ESP8266 isn't strong enough but can work on P-Series. Problem is Bambu warned that they may be encrypting everything in the future so all solutions including the one in the video might be blocked until someone else can find a new workaround or Bambu supports it some other way. They plan to add plugin support eventually so maybe then.

[@hicamajig]

@@Mr_Gadge I don’t have one but based on your statement I looked it up and it seems like basically Bambu updated the printers in a way that the chipset can’t handle it. Main issue with third party solutions will always be that Bambu can block them any time unless you never update your machine.

[@DustinWill]

YESSSSSS!!

[@steverhysjenks]

I belive PoE ++ can support 24v

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Sorry it wasn't very good wording on my part, PoE (the spec) can support it theoretically, but the controller isn't suitable for that kind of wattage in this small a footprint

[@welshtony1]

You should add a new mode to the light for when your recording videos to transition through the colours just like your computer fans. Just to give the left of the screen a bit of colour just like the right. Just a idea. Brilliant work though, makes me want to get this printer.

[@Samuel-eu1ts]

FIY PoE Can deliver far more than the stated 3.84W of your board, 802.3bt can do 100W for example, it really depends on the hardware components of the source and of the device itself, 1-2Amp isn't that far fetch for PoE. Heck Unifi makes LED ceiling tiles powered over PoE. Cool video tho

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Indeed, I could have worded it better.

[@Samuel-eu1ts]

@@EverythingSmartHome No worries, in fact, for future boards, if you would rather not do the whole PoE development yourself, look at pre-made modules like the DP1435-5V and similar. They are a bit pricier than doing everything yourself (the DP1435-5V is 4.43 on jlcpcb parts), but they save dev time in, and it's just so much easier. You simply feed it the 4/2 tap points, and it outputs 5V/12V/24V.

[@mortenmoulder]

@@Samuel-eu1ts Only at 12-13 watts, though. As far as I can see

[@Samuel-eu1ts]

@@mortenmoulder Yeah, of course, if you want more you need bigger inductors and bigger everything really, but 10-15W is still 2-3 amps at 5v which is enought for a number of projects (including LED strips where tbh voltage drop is a bigger issue at 5V)

[@MrKornnugget]

How did they come out of nowhere… CCP funding. It is one of the pillars for CCP investment. I still think they are flooding the market, but people really like their machines.

[@MarcHeyer]

Maaaaan you are costing me so much money...😂 First I built your Hyperion Setup, then I got 3 Presence light and now this 🥲. Awesome work.