Quality Mid Century Teak Furniture Restoration | Wood, Wood Putty, and Finish Repair How To

[@jill552]

Unbelievable that someone could put that seat on backwards and make those terrible repairs to such beautiful chairs. I really love your chair videos. It’s like a furniture anatomy class.

[@FixingFurniture]

Yes, it's a shame they were repaired poorly. That's part of my reason for sharing videos like this - to show the right way to repair things. Thanks for being a subscriber Jill! Scott

[@bettabgood]

It's hard to find professionals who are able to teach from extensive knowledge and experience on KZbin. I am so glad I ended up here.

[@FixingFurniture]

Happy to help! Scott

[@seanbrotherton542]

Scott you're a walking repair encyclopedia galactic edition! I learn as much about what to do as what NOT to do watching your presentations. You should write a book! Wish I lived closer! I would work for you free for a year just to get the hands on experience. You will go down as a guru in the wood working repair history books! I refer everyone I know to your instruction when they insist on a DIY repair.

[@patriciasiefert7140]

Wow! Excellent work!

[@FixingFurniture]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@DavidWhite]

Scott in my years in working with teak, it is a very oily wood like you mentioned. Before I glue teak together the last step before gluing I wipe the joint with acetone to remove the oils then immediately glue the joint. If you wait for just a couple of hours before gluing you will have to repeat. You might be able to use Lacquer thinner also

[@GreggsWoodworking]

Agreed

[@edinilsonsilva6130]

Great tip!!!!

[@woodworkingandepoxy643]

The problem with that is the other part of the joint was repaired with epoxy and the acetone will compromise that since it's basically a plastic

[@williamrendall134]

Such a very skillful job. Thank you.

[@sandrachaplin6404]

Just restored 4 of the very same chairs, also with the seats attached the wrong way round! The bottom stretchers needed clamping because there were gaps; the top was rock solid and did not need taking apart. Apart from that they needed a good clean and oiling and are now beautiful chairs again. Many thanks for your brilliant video.

[@amasvodka]

Do you know who designed them?

[@sandrachaplin6404]

@@amasvodka Niels Moller for Bolting Stolefabrik

[@amasvodka]

@@sandrachaplin6404 Thank you!

[@billholmes6639]

Fantastic Job!!

[@awideman5981]

Even if you don't like woodworking. This is a relaxing channel to watch. I'd recommend it even based off that

[@krenwregget7667]

great stuff. I've been a carpenter and cabinet maker for 20+ years and I still learn new things from your videos. Teak is a beautiful wood and I'm glad to watch those chairs get a second life.

[@elainev670]

Thanks for the video!

[@FixingFurniture]

You're welcome!

[@Petesdaughter2]

This video proves that wood furniture repair is an art. Scott, you are a wonderful teacher and artist...a VERY PATIENT artist! I learn something new with each video. Thanks for sharing!

[@trygun4]

The chairs you have there are beautiful and typical good teak from mid last century. I’m homebased in Thailand where we have several old teak houses in Chiang Mai, a heartland of the old teak industry. Much of the inventory is also old teak. Old teak behaves differently than new teak. It has to do with how the tree has grown and been harvested. Old teak is more resistant to termites, which is crucial, to avoid the house and furniture being eaten up from the inside. We have had some bad experiences and now we’re only using old teak from old teak houses taken down, available in secondhand woodshops to maintain and develop. It’s not cheap, but worth it in the long run. It’s a challenging wood to work with. Brittle but strong at the same time. I still haven’t found the best tools to work with. In modern teak furniture there’s often sapwood, bearing the sign of modern forestry, where there’s no time for the right, but slow processes to take place. Natural old teak is beautiful in its natural colour. When exposed to weather and sunshine oiling it will be nedeed. It would be very interesting if you could do more examples of this kind of teak furniture repairs. Thank you for your very good and instructive videos.

[@edwardcooper8833]

I love the way you explain the why rather than just the how. Thanks.

[@FixingFurniture]

Thanks for sharing that. I'm glad you're enjoying our videos. Scott

[@awr2217]

Great job, the chairs look amazing. It's thrilling to watch the teak come to life with just a wipe of varnish.

[@texanasimmons1761]

These are a very pretty pair of chairs! I like the ladder back inspired look but the difference is interesting! Thanks for sharing this restoration!

[@shirleypedersen7406]

They are FABULOUS LOOKING. You’re a PRO RESTORER for sure. Your clients will be thrilled. What fantastic repairs. The before and after pix are STUNNING. Well done Sir, well done.

[@nylabone8782]

Well done. Another great video.

[@ScipioAndycanus]

I learn something new from you every time I watch.

[@roberthellebush8775]

As always, Scott, a masterful repair and a great video.... I just keep on learning!!!

[@gingerburden3356]

Your videos have been extremely informative. I have used many of your techniques in repairing chairs. Thanks!

[@analogal2639]

I admire you for being so so patient. I can see that you actualy love wood.

[@chrisb2557]

Some folks probably think your a bit dry but i like the no tom foolery approach.

[@Nanna-hpi]

You are definitely a fabulous chair surgeon! Learning so much from you. Thanks!

[@colinsmith7576]

Excellent job and instructive teaching video. Thank you for uploading. Watching from across the pond.

[@allenkoopman1198]

I enjoy your videos very much. I do fine woodworking as a hobby and have learned a lot from you! Thanks.

[@renoholland7090]

Wonderful job.

[@Sunbeam4291]

Thanks for sharing. Learned a lot today about repairing Teak furniture.

[@RESTORATIONOFSCRAPMETAL]

Cool job, and beautiful result 👍

[@FixingFurniture]

Thank you. I'm glad you like it! Scott

[@caroltanzi29]

Scott: great restoration job on those two mid century modern chairs. The repair and finish are perfect! WOW! Carol from California

[@montericci1910]

Great repair. I appreciate your little pun about being picky. I enjoy all your videos and will share more. Hope you reach your goal. Thanks for the great video.

[@stoveboltlvr3798]

Thanks Scott, good video and a perfect match on the teak wedge. Surprised you aren't at 100K already.

[@1973thebigd]

classy chairs top job mr dash

[@FixingFurniture]

Glad you liked it! Thanks. Scott

[@schechnera]

Thank you for these videos, Scott. I used at least 2 techniques I learned from you when I repaired my walnut piano bench yesterday. Thanks!

[@beebopperdowap]

I know someone with 6 Modern Chairs that you recently met who wants to bring them to Ontario from Chicago for you to refurbish. This can be the only choice!

[@manuelsoul1]

Bravo Scott ottimo lavoro, sei il migliore 👍👍👍

[@lougrzybek2816]

Great video! All the best wishes growing the channel in ‘22. Looking forward to similar content in the future.

[@FixingFurniture]

Much appreciated! Thank you. Scott

[@jaensara]

¡GRANDE MAESTRO! Gracias por compartir sus conocimientos y experiencias en la restauración de muebles. Espero que se cumplan sus metas y proyectos en este año. Felicitaciones y saludos desde Lima-Perú.

[@jeniferpollonais6546]

Some awesome surgery you did there ! Beautiful job!

[@kristover100]

Fantastic video, thank you very much

[@christineharris3041]

This is exactly the content I’ve been looking for. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge!

[@edinilsonsilva6130]

It´s always a pleasure to see how you aproach every piece you restore. Congrats from Brazil!

[@davecornette6188]

Always great informative videos. Thanks for taking the time to create them. I always learn a ton.

[@FixingFurniture]

You're welcome. I'm glad you like them! Thanks for subscribing Dave. Scott

[@kennethrand4877]

Tough glue joints come apart with some heat. Tom Johnson has good success with heat.

[@misomlynar7596]

Scott, thank you for your perfect inspirational channel. I am looking forward to each and every new video you make. It is really an art you do. I wish you all the best in 2022. Greetings from Slovakia.

[@krzysztofccc2705]

Dzięki za mądry, pouczający film. Życzę zdrowia i miliona subskrypcji !

[@ronmack1767]

Enjoyed the video Scott. Very nice job. Thanks for taking the time to produce the videos. Y'all take care and God bless.

[@FixingFurniture]

You're welcome Ron. Thanks for sharing that.

[@piskcoki200344]

Thanks for the warning on Polyurethane, did not know that and I see most flippers use it!

[@FixingFurniture]

Glad to hear you found that helpful! Thanks for sharing that

[@michaelhenderson5683]

Great videos with lots of very useful information on products being used. Thanks

[@FixingFurniture]

Glad it was helpful! Scott

[@athmostafa2462]

Long time video repear but very interesting and enjoyable , thanks 😊

[@geoff4791]

Excellent tuition and presentation.

[@ИДов-з1у]

Как жаль, что я не понимаю ваш язык...но, даже без звука очень поучительно! Каждый раз так захватывающе интересно, что забываю сделать подписку. Не забыть бы сейчас...

[@haroldadelman1130]

One of your comments was in reference to polyurethane finishes. I build furniture as a hobby, and your comment about adding a polyurethane finish surprised me and made me think long and hard. What is the finish that I should be using on my furniture? A lacquer? Most of my work is in oak, but I do a little cherry and a bit of walnut. And of course I do work in pine and even some plywood for garage shelving and the like. Thanks, I learn from you with each video!

[@mariushegli]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@batmansdad3195]

I've seen what you mean about avoiding using a mallet for the demo part. KZbin algorithms sent me another furniture repair shop, to where they've used a mallet. The mallet does make quicker work of the demo part, but as you stated you also risk unnecessary damages that seem like they can be avoided. Not knocking them for the final product is in that wow faze, and I know it comes to an each their own style of demo.

[@lenkuffert7428]

Hope commenting boosts you toward 100K. Looks like you were using JB weld quick epoxy. I really like Lee Valley item 56Z7701, which is also a 1:1 and can be quite minutely doled out for small batches. I used to be a big proponent of West Systems, but often found myself with leftover resin or hardener despite being careful about using full strokes when pumping, etc. I’m always on the lookout for long open time alternatives. stay well, Len

[@elibooks7660]

Beautiful work. thanks for sharing

[@Sharon-jh6xs]

They look so much better I have a question how long do you tell the customer it will take to repair the furniture?

[@Naper89]

Hi Scott, could I ask what natural varnish you used instead of polyurethane? Shellac? And what thinner- denatured alcohol? Thanks, Richie

[@FixingFurniture]

It's a traditional oil-based varnish by Varithane. I thinned it with mineral spirits. It's not shellac and denatured alcohol. I hope that helps.

[@cobberpete1]

Abracadabra. Just like magic. Well done again Scott. As a thought... Would you use something like acetone on the oily wood joint to help 'Dry' it out before applying the glue to give it the extra bond strength ??

[@zachkorinis3935]

between the audience and the author , I'm getting tons of useful info.

[@D4100N]

Hi, very good video. Have you see Mathias wandel video about glue strength. In his video he shows that small gaps can be filled with normal wood glue.

[@robertlivingstone3947]

Very interesting video

[@FixingFurniture]

Glad you liked it

[@seminarh]

When you say varnish here, what are you using? I assumed oil based as you thinned with paint thinner but couldn't see non water based in your Amazon links

[@ellisc.foleyjr9778]

Really great tutorial Scott, lots of excellent information and tips in this one. I'm doing my part to help you get to your 100K. thanks for taking the time and for sharing your expertise. ECF

[@FixingFurniture]

That's awesome. Thank you for your support Ellis. I appreciate that!

[@dpmeyer4867]

good job

[@FixingFurniture]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@robertminato2706]

fantastic job!

[@FixingFurniture]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@BlocklandPablo]

Hey Scott! I'm learning from you and appreciate all of your tips and videos! Quick question, at 29:07 when you applied the two part epoxy and let it sit to dry did you clamp it? Is there a reason not to clamp it? Thanks so much for all your help!

[@stevewarren3051]

That would be a nice video to see how to test for the type of top coat used on the piece. Happen to have one of those or do you have to pay you for that info?

[@Martin-vx4bz]

Hello so I have this desk with a wide drawer and it’s connected by four screws but when I try screwing it both ways it loosens but then tightens

[@MrCrateraider3]

Is there a special kind of epoxy I should be using? I have a leg of a dresser that the dowel broke and split the trim piece it was attached to. The vainer just pealed away so I plan to fill the void with epoxy and set the leg in place and clamp the vainer back in place.

[@rj33015]

Great job. Where can I find the little bottle with the needle?

[@tomskaggs7918]

What is the difference in the epoxy that you used on the teak chairs compared to what you used from the pump cans and powder?

Muito bom 👍 parabéns!

[@FixingFurniture]

Thank you! Scott

[@kennedymueller1788]

Thank you for this wonderful video. Can the epoxy used at the end also be used to fill voids? I am a little confused about the two epoxies you used. Again, thank you!

[@HawkFest]

Thanks a lot! At 37:10, on another clip (the American Windsor Chair), you apply polyurethane as a finish, but here you advise to stay away from polyurethane finish. Could you please elaborate?

[@FixingFurniture]

Yes. The window chair I repaired was not an antique and the original finish was polyurethane. MCM furniture generally has a lot of value so using polyurethane (the wrong finish for it's time period) destroys the value of the piece. Does that help? Scott

[@HawkFest]

@@FixingFurniture, awesome. And thank you for the enlightenment, I just found your channel as I need to do some repairs, on a wood sculpture and a wobbling bedside table. Glad I found your clips

[@jogvanjakupsson2952]

I think I have heard that it is a good idea to clean oily wood like teak with alcohol just before gluing to maximize adhesion

[@erichaskell]

Is the design of the chair correct in that use would not slowly ruin the chair or are we seeing damage possibly caused by moving or such? I ask because I am making a dinning room set and the design of the chairs (not mine) concerns me.

[@FixingFurniture]

The joints in the chair legs were finger jointed as well as doweled. From my perspecitve, that's a strong joint for a chair of this design. If you're looking for the strongest possible chair, this is not the design for that. Does that help? Scott

[@markneo1]

Excelente 👏👏👏🇧🇷

[@seanbrotherton542]

Scott do you have a merch store? Shirts, stickers or any gear for sale? I would love to have some stickers for my shop.

[@kempsavage5703]

In a previous KZbin that. I just watched you used Titebond liquid hide glue. Why do you prefer it to Old Brown?

[@ayeda69]

Beautifully done! I have a strange question: could someone train as a furniture restorer without going through training as a wood worker or furniture maker? Something like an Art restorer, for example.

[@knottreel]

Wow!

[@johnnewgard5392]

Great video Scott. Was that GLOSS varnish you mixed with the paint thinner?

[@johnnewgard5392]

While I'm at it, does paint thiner = mineral spirits?

[@hydroxacte]

What happened with the mis-matched screws holding the seat on?

[@FixingFurniture]

I replace those with matching screws. As a Canadian, they're now Roberston screws. Scott 🇨🇦

[@rogeliolozano5955]

how to repair set slip in half any video

[@normagrimstad8869]

Mid Century is all the rage now, especially Scandinavian design. I’m just wondering about these pieces. Are they solidly made? Were the chairs mostly made with design in mind, and less so durability? For example we have dressers and tables that have lasted for centuries. These pieces are from the fifties.

[@peterdowning2525]

I know this is mostly a re-finishing channel, but I wonder about two things. Based on your experience, are there chair designs (of any age) that simply aren’t designed well and are likely to fail? Along with that, in designing modern chairs, are there “classic” or traditional techniques that should be avoided because they are destined to fail? Sometimes I look at chairs such as those in this video and think of ways they could have been constructed differently to avoid some of these problems.

[@colonelrooseveltsreflectio9382]

Nice repair. I however would just pattern shape a new frame. Having studied and apprenticed in Denmark working extensively with teak I would remake the parts rather than attempt to repair a repair. Teak micro fractures in hundreds of little areas around the main fracture. Just a setup for a sudden failure and liability. When any of us repairs chairs it’s important to be aware that any mid century modern chair made in Denmark has a threshold of 250 lbs. Anyone weighing in excess of that will be in danger of breaking the chair. As to finishing Teak the Danish furniture Manufactures Assoc. specified a sealer followed by a Danish oil. Continued success!

[@F.o.s.t.e.r.]

Hey Scott, you said that putting poly on furniture like that destroys the value. Is that because it's not period specific or is there something more damning about using polyurethane as a finish on fine furniture?

[@FixingFurniture]

When furniture is restored, it should be restored with the finish of that time period. I have nothing against polyurethane as a finish, but it's not a finish for vintage furniture. Does that answer your question? Scott

[@F.o.s.t.e.r.]

@@FixingFurniture yes, thank you for responding and thank you for the great videos.

[@byhammerandhand]

I am surprised that is not a lacquer finish (unless refinished somewhere along the line). Almost all the furniture I've repaired (thousands of pieces) has had lacquer of some kind. It has lots of production advantages: sprayable, very quick drying, and easy to repair finish damage. I have had customers (presumably trying to impress me) talk about the "poly" on their factory furniture. I roll my eyes. While I do occasionally use it on my projects, it's not my go-to finish. A friend of mine calls it "polyoneverythane." Unfortunately non-poly varnish (alkyd) is getting harder to find. Good video!

[@badassfood5713]

The seat being as far forward of the front leg joints probably caused the damage. Also probably the owner thought that the seat being as far forward was artistic, and added to the mid century aesthetic.

[@FixingFurniture]

Perhaps. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on that. I appreciate it. Scott

[@redbed1604]

I pity the next guy who has to take that apart. lol

[@FixingFurniture]

Yes, those joints are not coming apart. To repair it with hide glue would have required extensive replacement of wood, which would have been visually noticeable.

[@PEPEIM]

I try to watch your channel but I can't handle your voice, it stuns me. I'm sorry.

[@bernie4366]

Where would one go to learn how to do this? Are you pretty much stuck just trying to teach yourself?

[@brad9529]

This one didn't come out so great, far from your usual perfection, somewhat better than it was though.

[@buffsheeri]

Nobody is getting that chair apart now.

[@ronm3245]

It looks to me like these chairs were very poorly designed, based on the way the wood was broken. It's time to stop worshipping shit.

[@scottmatthews1039]

Older video, I know, but wondering what varnish you use to mix your ‘wiping varnish’?