Fix Old Cameras: Canon F 1 Uneven Exposure

[@Wootsk]

Nice video. I have a new f1 and the catch for my shutter curtain is not holding unless i am winding the camera slowly. I am planning to lub the catch. Do you know if the access is the same for new F1?

[@flowermaze___]

If the shutter capping keeps returning after the camera has been left to sit for a while, and after making these adjustments, do the rollers need to be cleaned out? Can this be done by dropping some alcohol and lubrication on the brass gears under the top cover? Thanks!

[@MysteryManBob]

if you could make videos on repair for the Canon "new" F-1 that would be just great. there's a few things that go wrong with them such as the slow mirror response and meter failure that would help a lot of people out, especially considering that this camera uses a hybrid shutter and is a mechanical oddity

[@FixOldCameras]

Thank you for the suggestion of a specific issue as the sluggish mirror function of the later model Canon F-1. It will make a good FOC feature.

[@tomheckhaus7617]

Hey Mike, I'm very happy to see you tackle a Canon F-1. Now that you've opened up the bottom of the camera, lets see you get a diode in there! It would be nice to use an alkaline battery.

[@FixOldCameras]

Right on. Good to hear from you.

[@longde]

that camera will never ever work correctly with an alkaline battery

[@Xavi359]

I think between comments and this vid Ive been able to diagnose the issue im having with my shutter. It seems at the fastest speed the shutter isnt opening at all. Which fully explains why most of the shots i did on my test roll of film werent exposed at all, and those that were were mostly blank/partially exposed. (did 32 out of 36 shots cause i was impatient and i really wanted to know how it perfomed, out of those 32 only 17 came back, out of that only 4 were actually exsposed fully).

[@michaelkovalenko4683]

When you say "half a turn" do you mean half a turn of the brass colored gear or half a turn on the worm you adjusted?

[@FixOldCameras]

That would be in reference to the brass gear. And a half turn recommendation is a comment on caution in over tensioning the shutter roller spring.

[@matteooballa3581]

I have a canon F1 that seems to have this issue. The photo gets slightly over exposed at the left edge. Would I adjust the leading curtain or following curtain? Thank you so much!

[@chris2earth]

I have this issue on my New F-1 would it be a similar fix?

[@TheRealTLO]

Does this fix curtain bounce at high speeds on the Canon F-1n? Thanks

[@yoanzorzutti1444]

hi, thanks a lot for your videos. they helped me to repair one of two canon ae 1. but for the other one, i hava a question : How to repair a curtain completely destroy ?

[@FixOldCameras]

Shutter replacement requires nearly complete disassembly... a little more complex type of repair.

[@yoanzorzutti1444]

thanks for your answer. that mean i must give the camera to an professionnal ? or can i do it myself with some good documentation?

[@FixOldCameras]

It might be worth a DIY... depends on your skills and patience. If you are interested in getting it repaired - www.phototronic.biz/services.html

[@yoanzorzutti1444]

thks a lot again. i will study this website and try to repair it. i love this camera...

[@FixOldCameras]

Right on.

[@peterduris8314]

My Minolta XE-1 have the same problem on 1/1000s, how to fix it? it is a vertical shutter not open on 1/1000s, some time open, some time not open....

[@kinfuilee9460]

Hi, I’m still new. But what’s an uneven exposure?

[@misfit7053]

My Canon TX mirror is up and won't come down,do I need a new battery? Or is it stuck?and if so how can I get it back down. I been needing help,thank you

[@FixOldCameras]

The battery in the TX has nothing to do with the mirror function. Possibly the second shutter curtain does not complete its cycle to trip the mirror release lever.

[@rugerluver1]

Thank you Fix old cameras i thought it would be a easy fix i just didnt want to plow into the camera with no knowledge of whats inside again thanks my camera is now fixed

[@FixOldCameras]

Great to hear of your success.

[@andresmendez7802]

Need to repair canon f1 timer. Any suggestions? Thanks

[@Julian-vp3xj]

Hello, I have a Canon 'original' F1 like the one in the video. The shutter dial indents for different speeds, are slightly out of alignment with the speeds displayed in the bottom-right of the viewfinder. For example if the dial is turned to the 1/60 indent, then the viewfinder shows the blank space between 60 and 125. Otherwise if I set the dial half-way between 30 and 60, then the 60 shows clearly in the viewfinder. This leads me to believe that camera has been opened and then reassembled slightly incorrectly - with either the dial or the display slightly offset. Do you have any suggestion on where to look? I *do* have an oscilloscope, and could check speeds, if I buy I photodiode, if that was necessary. But opening the camera is not something I want to do without a clear idea of what I am looking for.

[@FixOldCameras]

Set the camera to bulb and then use that setting for reference for placement of the dial. If bulb is set correctly all other speeds will follow. Accuracy of the speeds is another issue. Use your eyes and ears and camera it to a known working camera. Keep you eyes focused at point beyond the focal plane as you hold the cameras to a diffused light with the lens off and the back open.

[@glenrea]

I have a Canon EF "black beauty" with uneven exposure. As it uses a Copal shutter are the adjusters in a different place?

[@FixOldCameras]

The vertical bladed shutter is not as easily adjusted. Check the blades to make sure they are dry and a an oil film has not migrated on to one or more of the blades.

[@hijodmaite]

i have a black Canon F-1 that seems to be in great shape except the shutter release button will not activate. film advance lever working fine and moving film but its not catching the shutter inside. any ideas? If I buy a motor drive will I not have to worry about this anymore?

[@FixOldCameras]

A motor drive might work if you can wind the camera using a spanner wrench on the motor drive linkage located on the wind side of the bottom plate.

[@ramonfernandez8018]

I have an F-1 with a missing rewind knob. Is there a way to open the film door without it?

[@FixOldCameras]

This video might help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYKtgpqaepl8icU

[@friedcassava7126]

How to calibrate shutter speed on Nikon Fm2 or F3?

[@FixOldCameras]

Thank you for the suggestion. It is more likely that a video would be made on the FM2, but even so it is hard to say when such a project would be in the works.

[@friedcassava7126]

You have very good video, very helpful. can i have your email address so i can contact you in the future?

[@johnfgstead5475]

Excellent : the first F-1 video -- thank you..!

[@FixOldCameras]

More to come in the future.

[@yuxianwang3238]

I found a problem with my f-1 (it does not affect the functionality of the camera). In the viewfinder, there is a window displays the current selected shutter speed. My shutter speed dial is not aligned with the one in the view finder. For instance, when I select 1/2000s on the shutter dial, I can only see the bottom 3/4 of the 2000 in the viewfinder. All my shutter speed are correct and is there a quick easy fix to this problem? thanks

[@FixOldCameras]

The pulley and string configuration that connects the VF indicator to the dial is tedious to install, but if the string popped off the pulley it might be reset without to much trouble. With the shutter dial side top cover removed one pulley can be partially accessed under the dial on the front side.

[@yuxianwang3238]

Fix Old Cameras I think the string just need tiny bit more tension. But I’ll just skip that and leave it for professional to repair.

[@longde]

there is an internal adjustment for the viewfinder soeed indicator below the wind side cover. It allows you to slide a pulley.

[@Magnusscipioiterum]

Does this camera require a diode install to operate the meter?

[@FixOldCameras]

The original Canon F-1 was designed to take PX625 1.35 volt batteries.

[@_yurikkoo]

Hi mike, my canon f1 battery cover is stuck. Is there something that i can do? Because i want to replace my old battery. Thank you .

[@FixOldCameras]

Seep alcohol around the threads. Apply heat ( be careful not to allow the heat source to come in contact with any plastic parts). If the situation remains desperate you might have to drill a couple of spanner wrench holes so that you can have the extra secure hold and additional torque. Patience and persistence.

[@RobBob555]

hi, wonder if can please help ? i have a Canon AV-1 ( just bought) i see the shutter curtain is not opening at all.. one curtain just follows another without ANY opening. the AV-1 is an Aperture priority camera as you will know.. when i try the B bulb setting i was under the impression if i kept my finger on the shutter button it would expose until i let go ? it does not.. its the same ( no curtain open ) error as all the other settings.. is there an easy way to fix this issue ? thanks :O)

[@FixOldCameras]

On possibility might be the locking arm surface alignment for the shutter holding magnet.

[@RobBob555]

@@FixOldCameras i will have a look thanks..

[@RobBob555]

@@FixOldCameras so i took a look, i followed the mechanism and could see the shutter curtain closing speed was controlled by an electro magnet on the right, the one you referred to ( shutter holding magnet ) i gave the magnet contacts a little rub and viola .. its working ! seems to slow down on low light as it should etc.. excellent ! :O) so .. sticky magnet . i shall film test it later thanks.

[@FixOldCameras]

@@RobBob555 Right on. Good to hear of your success.

[@ItsRenderInnit]

I have an F-1 that seems to be off a whole stop (negative 1 stop) in regards to the shutter speed. Occasionally getting stuck when in a shutter speed at, around, or slower than 1/4. Not sure what to do about it 😥

[@FixOldCameras]

The slow speed gear train dragging or sticking will generally be the cause of speeds below 1/15 dragging. The speed gear train in the original F-1 is located under the advance lever mechanism.

[@richardhaw9757]

Hi, uneven exposure is caused by abrasion on the Nikon F. could this also happen to the F1?

[@FixOldCameras]

Indeed. Abrasion and resistance. Weakened spring condition. Dry, dirty bearings.

[@Solertcore]

Hello i need your help. I have 50mm 1.4 olympus lens, i disassembled it completely and cleaned it. I put it back but now it seems that the lens won't focus. What did i do wrong how do i fix it ? Also i have to disassembly Canon FD 35mm F2 SSC and New FD 85mm 1.8, i couldn't found any guide. Could you help me with those ? Thank you very much.

[@rugerluver1]

You probably have one of the lens in the wrong way round or a spacer in front instead of behind a lens

[@FixOldCameras]

If the helical is not turning check for blockage. If the helical is turning but not bringing the lens to focus, then check for proper element placement.

[@Solertcore]

I realized i put the front two elements wrong. However i can't seem to find the right way for 2 rings for glasses and their placement. Could you help me ?.

[@HanFollo]

You guys are amazing! Thank you!

[@FixOldCameras]

As are all of you who take an interest in fixing old cameras. And thanks to you.

[@mugshot749]

The F1 camera in this video isn't "the original F1" it's the second version the original didn't have a plastic tip on the film wind lever.

[@FixOldCameras]

Indeed. The F-1 and the F-1n with some minor "improvements" are the same camera mechanically of the original design. The New F-1 was a total remake of the camera. Thank you for your comments and interest in FOC.

[@yuxianwang3238]

My canon f-1 does not trigger flash through the pc port neither the two contact point next to the winding lever. Do you know how to fix it? Thanks

[@FixOldCameras]

Sounds like the X flash sync contacts that are actuated by the shutter action are not making positive contact. They are not easy to access. The X contact closer lever is underneath the counter and advance mechanism and the FP contact is located on the timer side of the mirror box.

[@yuxianwang3238]

Fix Old Cameras i checked the schematics the pc sync port is also coupled to the meter circuitry. My meter does work and it’s accurate. So does that concludes the problem came from the shutter contact side?

[@FixOldCameras]

@@yuxianwang3238 The X- sync shutter contacts appear to be the issue. Check the wire leading from the X contact (x contact)----------------white wire------------ (FP contact)-----------white wire------------(PC terminal)

[@yuxianwang3238]

Fix Old Cameras thanks I’ll just leave it as is because the repair seems too complicated for me

[@Videowatcher9897]

I have an old F1 whose shutter stays open for too long at an 8th of a second and below, all other shutter speeds seem to be ok though. Any idea what the problem could be?

[@FixOldCameras]

The slow speed escapement is not engaging properly or possibly is sluggish and needs cleaned.

[@Videowatcher9897]

Fix Old Cameras, Thank you!

[@Magnusscipioiterum]

How do you test for curtain travel times?

[@FixOldCameras]

It is doubtful that most DIY camera repair enthusiast will have a dedicated electronic shutter tester. Or a dual trace oscilloscope rigged with a double photo diode adapter. Oh well. That leaves your ears and your eyes, not very technical and certainly not certified, but they can be effective in setting up curtain travel times. The following is for a focal plane curtain type shutter. The Copal type focal plane shutter and bladed shutter can also be checked in this manner but the technique is a little different. First off, if the first curtain travel is too slow due to inadequate tension it will often not clear the focal plane and make a weak soft sound. If it is to high it will make a popping sound, not good. Correct immediately. Start this check on bulb and check questionable camera against a known good camera to train your ear. The same applies to the second curtain, plus if it is too slow it often will not trigger the mirror release. Listen to all speeds. Close your eyes so you are not distracted by what you see. Now for the eye. You will need a bright diffused light source. What might be ideal is an old fashioned window shade back lit by bright afternoon sun. Or place a sheet of white paper in front of a bright desk lamp. With the lens off and the back open hold the camera about a foot from your eyes point toward your diffused light source. Looking through the back camera watch the shutter action at all speeds. Keep in mind once you are past the flash sync speed, the curtains are traveling across the focal plane in an ever narrowing slit as the speeds increase. At this point the speeds should be close from your previous testing. Tweek as needed. But always guard against too much tension. Here is where the curtain's speeds will be matched. If the focal plane is illuminated evenly on all speeds and it sounds just right... you are done. If the illumination of the focal plane is shaded on the left than the first curtain is too slow or the second curtain is too fast or both might need to be slightly tweeked. However most often the shading will be on the right on 1/500 and 1/1000. Keep track of your adjustments by making a small reference dot with a toothpick and nail polish on the adjustment gear.

[@pakan357]

What about those cheap testers where a single photo diode sends the light duration information in the form of audio signal? You connect it to your PC via a 3,5 mm jack and use an audio editing software to see the wave duration.

[@FixOldCameras]

They probably work just fine with a leaf type shutter, but not so well with a focal plan shutter. Might be fun to test an old Compur shutter with a smart phone. But, as long as you are working with a camera with a maximum speed of 1/1000, comparison to a known accurate shutter, as you listen to the shutter and watch the shutter, will work. And with practice you will be with in tolerance.

[@pakan357]

Hmm, Someday I might try one, it's just 15 USD. I wonder how well it works on a focal plane shutter camera with accurate shutter times. Testing by ears and eyes sounds interesting too.

[@Techball272]

thanks! just what I need!

[@FixOldCameras]

Excellent, thanks for your interest in FOC.