FJ40 Restoration (Episode 23) - Major Problem

[@Jerod_Helt]

Hey Guys, I'm looking for a 2F engine with a 4 Speed Transmission and Transfer Case. Let me know if you have one for sale or know where I can get one. Preferably in, or near CA. Thanks and I hope you enjoyed the video.

[@masonrm]

Ih8mud, and craigslist. They come up from time to time. Mosely Motors makes a nice Crate 2F but it's like 6k.

[@solrosenberg9924]

I have a 2f and 4 speed in Wisconsin from a 77 parts rig Still in the machine.

[@Jerod_Helt]

Sol Rosenberg if I can’t find one locally I might be interested in that. How many miles? And what would you need for it?

[@solrosenberg9924]

JNH Classics I have no idea ... I did run last spring but I’ve had it parked Is $500 a crazy ask? You get To pull it out and I get to watch with a beer

[@Jerod_Helt]

Sol Rosenberg that’s sounds like a good deal. To bad I’m so far away.

[@thomasrickstrew6669]

Sorry to see this.... But appreciate you showing us the real process and the reality that old engines can fail even if they are cleaned up and painted. 2F all the way.

[@gobrouillette]

Great videos, binged them like True Detective. I'm about to tear into a 72 with a stock setup. I think you should keep the F, you have everything already, won't have to modify, although it shows you really enjoy wrenching on these. Keep up the great work!

[@knuckle47]

Man what a heart break… even worse has to be the scoring on cylinder 6. Sorry to see you doing this much over again…

[@JohnnyBLC]

Wow. Razor blade... That's a first. You can also use a drive train from a 60-series but the split-t'case may require some clearance mods to rear frame tube the x-memer

[@joesixpack7551]

Okay, here's my two cents... I was absolutely cringing when you were using a wire wheel to clean the carbon off the pistons. Also, you had the pan still off and the engine in while doing more cleaning. I hate to sound like a nag, but hey I'm good at it and I'm old, so I can get away with it :). Ten bucks says you have broken wire or some other issue in the ring grooves that caused that scaring on the cylinder wall. For the compression to be off that much, my guess is that your lifters need to be adjusted also. Remember, you put a new head gasket on which is likely thinner than the old OEM Toyota gasket, so more than likely, you have valves not closing all the way. Here's what I would do bare minimum... pull the oil pan off, drop number 6 piston/rod (make sure to keep track of the shims) and clean/inspect to figure out what caused the gaul mark - guessing broken wire in the ring grove from the clean up work. If that is the case, probably a broken ring too. Hone that cylinder and re-assemble with a new ring set on that cylinder along with a new head gasket. The better thing to do is pull all pistons out, check sizes and hopefully just do a hone job and re-assemble with new rings and head gasket. Either way you go, adjust your valves and set them a little loose. Do a compression test - guessing you will be good to go. Fire it up and let warm up, then re-adjust your valves. You can get a complete set of rod/main bearings along with piston rings from Rock Auto for about $200 if you want to go nuts...

[@beez1598]

I was super sad to see this. It's clear you take a lot of time and energy to do things as thoroughly and correctly as you possibly can, Watching you has actually inspired me a bit to slow down and get some methodology and patience in my current restoration. Don't let this get you down, I hope you choose to keep the 1F its a great engine, my friend had a cruiser with a 1f in high school, we used to beat the bejesus out of that thing and it kept begging for more. The FJ eventually burned to the ground due to a rogue cigarette but that motor fired right up when we got it back to the shop.

[@Jerod_Helt]

Thanks for the comment and the funny story 👍

[@joesixpack7551]

- adding on to my prior comment... on second look, I would definitely pull all the pistons and re-ring it. Who knows what other crap is in all the other ring grooves waiting to break loose and cause damage. Just remember to pay super close attention to the shims on the rod caps and don't get anything turned around/mixed up. I'm guessing that gaul on the cyl wall is not a huge deal and I didn't see much of a wear ridge at the top of the cylinders. 98 percent chance you could sneak by just doing a clean up/hone and re-ring job. I would keep it original if you can with the 1F - it is a great engine and your vehicle will be worth more if it isn't heavily modified. Oh, and also hang on to your old parts (carb, etc for when you sell, in case the new owner wants to bring it back to original).

[@ameergado7151]

Oh man, sorry to see this turn of events! But every good story involves an encounter with adversity. It''ll be that much more satisfying in the end.

[@paulsthormes251]

Happens to the best of us I would really be curious to see if the ring is broken if it's not you might be able to use engine or or slightly hom and replace ring my engine also had slight pitting in the cylinder walls it sat for 15 years I've been driving it for the past 3 years it seems like it runs better especially after I did some road trips Rings got seated in when I first started driving my truck compression was 90 PSI I did a compression test recently I'm at a 140 PSI just wanting to share good luck on your project.

[@normletellier6042]

Jared....hard not to feel bad about this issue. But glad you didn't loose too much sleep over it and did some post engine run testing. Better to find it now then going down the road wondering why there is white smoke coming out the tailpipe. My vote is to agree with other members here and to keep the F engine do a deglaze hone, re-ring and reassemble. Your cost/time reward ratio would be my first choice in getting the vehicle build back on track. Secondly drive the vehicle around for a month or so and if you totally hate the three speed then source out your 2F option and 4 speed drivetrain. Hate to see all your hard work sidetracked while you look for a new engine. Totally appreciate all your "toy" wrenching and videos you post for us to view.

[@Saxonx500]

I have to say the language in your garage is far cleaner than mine......just one swear word caught so far when you were hit on the head.....the air would have been blue in mine for sure!

[@andrewmullen4003]

Really not sure why you didn't inspect the bearings and pistons when you had it pretty much stripped, but hey up to you.

[@Jerod_Helt]

I ended up completely rebuilding the engine in later videos

[@DB-lm1nj]

That sucks. But a 2F with FI and a 4speed would be a great combo for drive ability. Sorry I laughed when I saw the razor blade!

[@Jerod_Helt]

It is pretty funny!

[@mizeadventure9438]

I have one. from a 1987 60. 170k on the clock. just need to pull it. out in VA....

[@dominikrichner2646]

Hi, i was wondering how you measured the pressure? I have a fj40 2f engine and the car shows a cooleant leak. So there is something off here and i was thinking it could be better to check before doing the whole teardown.

[@Jerod_Helt]

You need a compression tester kit. Here’s a link to one amzn.to/3tVmvxP

[@Uberden]

Mate that was hard to watch. Glad it was only some simple.

[@jacobuspieterse4613]

Nothing engine related, but i think you should add some music to your videos, just something subtle 😊👌🏻

[@Rikky_AS285]

Jaws sound when the engine did get opened 😂

[@joesixpack7551]

Hello, can you tell me the month and year your FJ was built? It should be on the driver's side A-Post... I'm working on the steering on my FJ and it is completely different then yours - mine was built in Jul 1972

[@Jerod_Helt]

It was made in May of 72

[@ryanknapp4964]

Ouch!

[@vin9114]

Just an FYI.....you'll need a lot more parts than you think. You'll need a 4speed bell housing. Its different from the 3speed. Also, the flywheel is different because the clutch is a diagram clutch. And the 4speed trans is 2ins. longer. So, you will need the 4speed drive shafts. The rear is 2ins. shorter and the front is 2ins. longer. And the 4speed u joints and yokes are also different. The yokes won't bolt up to the diffs. The bolt pattern is different. There are a few different ways to fix this. One way is to get the 4speed drive shafts and change the yokes in the diffs to 4speed yokes. ( you will need the course spline yokes). Or you could use your 3speed shafts and shorten the rear 2ins and lengthen the front 2ins. This way all you'll need to do is change the yoke and u joints on the side of the driveshaft that bolts to the transmission and transfer case. It sounds like a lot of work and you probably didn't expect this but, it's really not that hard. Just more $$$ good luck

[@Jerod_Helt]

Thanks for the info buddy! Hopefully I can find an engine, trans and transfer case as a set👍

[@estein63]

No! Sorry man. Got a good laugh though! (Not that it’s funny). Thought those things only happen to me!

[@robbokissick5005]

The amount of petrol them 2f drink your batter off getting a old V8 . l would be looking for a good diesel engine

[@bogotstogoskiing]

Where in CA are you?

[@Jerod_Helt]

I’m in SoCal

[@billgraham5609]

I think manofre has rebuilt engines but pricey

[@ji3946]

Nah, not true, my rig has an original F mated to a 4 speed from the factory. Common on 74's so your call if it's worth investing in a 2F

[@valant1]

😂

[@billgraham5609]

I hate that for you.....check with www.marksoffroad.net he's in CA and has been salvaging parts. Check IH8MUD.com forum or there is a guy named Tim southwest of phoenix. find him on craigslists autoparts, search FJ40, he salvages fj40's pretty sure he has transmissions and trans. Good Luck!

[@McHumaty]

WTF dude... razor blade...