Flipsky 75100 + Xtron X30 & Laotie ES18p 🛴 Long Range + Full telemetry ⚡ Ambient No commentary 🏴‍☠️

[@Venous_fx]

how does the performance compare to stock controllers? top speed?

[@jaybones614]

How many amps are you putting to the motors?

[@BH4x0r]

btw i think a problem with these is that the temp sensor reading seems to be off, it should read much lower than it really does, with my alu pcb version it reads always 31°C atleast while mosfets are stone cold, so it might read higher temperature than it actually is, other than that, yes the old fsesc box controllers like you have overheat quite fast, while the alu pcb seems to be much better (from my testing)

[@PirateWasHere]

I can bet U got issue with temp sensor, cuz 31C is not possible even at 500W ;)

[@BH4x0r]

@@PirateWasHere yeah, it can read higher tho, but its both controllers so maybe VESC firmware is not 100% compatible, but i mean it idles there, it registers warmer than it should when theres 0 power, it doesnt get very warm tho, maybe because of really good thin heat pad with very great conductivity, at 110A phase with max speed of 45kph i register around 45°C, with no current at all it says 31°C even when just turned on so it's off/not correct i run VESC 75100_R2 firmware official 5.3 (not 5.2 from flipsky)

[@BH4x0r]

@@PirateWasHere update: i think the thermal pad i use is really good, on shorter rides (20m) i get max temp of about 35°C, on 1 ish hr commute daily 50°C, verified it with Arduino and NTC resistor with code from Marlin (from printer) to read out temps, but i notice that the case of the scooter is very warm to the touch aswell then, and i'm sure the steel of the scooter just cant get rid of the heat, which would make sense why it stays relatively cold for so long (i.e. it conducts it well to the steel, but the steel takes a while to heat up) and when the steel is heated up it takes a LONG time to get cold again, so nevertheless, i don't have thermal issues, but it doesn't read under 31°C, ever, so i guess thats the lowest my vescs's can measure as the NTC probe measures 15°C sometimes when the VESC still reports 31°C (like i tried to leave it outside when it didnt freeze and it got cold inside) so ye 0.127mm thick/thin doubleside sticking thermal pad i bought is awesome, btw i bought it so thin cuz alu pcb has flat bottom, and thin thermal pads perform better ;), however i wish i had aluminium bottom/battery case in scooter to get even less heat, but w/e, might dremel it out and get alu heatsink or something in it one day, as i said for now i never had temperature issues

[@BH4x0r]

@@PirateWasHere update: with correct firmware it runs well, correct temperature display and it pretty much doesn't get hot, also people tested it and at 80A it takes 3+ min to hit thermal throttle, that is without cooling pad or anything, vs 30sec on the ones u use (they tested that model aswell), you should try the dual alu pcb you got and you'll see they much better, infact it uses 380A mosfets while original used 120A mosfets aswell as alu pcb conducts heat well, but pcb and wires wont handle more than 120A

[@PirateWasHere]

@@BH4x0r thanks for the update 🍻

[@redreefbud]

No more overheating issues? 😁 Did you secure the 75/100 v2 right to the metal case or just leave it kind of loose in there? I have a maike kk10s pro scooter. Recently got it. It is a beast stock 🤯 45a x2 controllers but i am a diy kind of guy 😉🤣 i did get a set of the older 75/100 have not tried anything with them yet. Acually i have a set of spintend singles in one of my boards that i think i want to try out in my scooter. I also want to secure them with thermal paste to use that huge metal box as heatsink. Then maybe i will try those old 75/100s in the board 😉 also thinking of just buying the newer 75/100 v2 and putting in scooter. Idk 🤔🤣 i wanted to get the 100v 100a singles from spintend along with spinny throttle and adc converter but paypal wont let me buy anything from spintend. Dont know why guess i need to call them ☹️ great video thanks for all the info 😁

[@nuovovideo]

I have the same but with Janobike brand. 75100 not working because i think Amperage is too high so when you start the motor break

[@andretordjman9021]

Hi pirate, my battery drained out on my TI30, i plugged charger but escooter won't charge, any tips pirates? Thx

[@BH4x0r]

i got crazy idea, Fsesc 75200 x2 or 75300 x2 in Ti30, i wanna see :D

[@dustinkervodka]

Hi pirate!! Was This video recorded with 75100 v2? Thank you

[@PirateWasHere]

V1 :)

[@dustinkervodka]

@@PirateWasHere have you had time to test the v2 yet?

[@marinostsali7131]

Any detailed video with Flipsky 75100 conversion?

[@BH4x0r]

it's really ez, you need to solder loop key thingy and just add bullet connectors and XT60 on fsesc and 4 XT60's for loopkey (2x XT60 for battery input, - going directly to 2 other XT60's for in fsesc (should be done with 12AWG wire), then the + from both battery XT60's (2x 12AWG, they fit together in an XT90) goes to loopkey XT90-S antispark connector, and the other side 2 12awg in the xt90s to the 2 separate fsesc XT60's other than that you need to wire hall sensor throttle directly to 3.3V output and gnd from fsesc to adc1, or if your throttle only supports 5v you need to use a potential divider I'm actually waiting for a few parts to convert my Obarter X3 to FSESC75100 with alu pcb (but install will be similar to the ones Pirate used) I might make a video on it, but dont know when i will

[@marinostsali7131]

@@BH4x0r I just needed to know if there are issues with overheating. That's the main problem with vesc controller with power hungry e scooters especially for long-run.

[@BH4x0r]

@@marinostsali7131 biggest issue is the old fsesc's is the poor cooling, and they don't REALLY overheat unless you're pushing it through sand and mud cuz of the constant high current, and the lack of a fan doesn't help much either the best thing is probly to get a 75100 alu pcb or even better 75200 or 300, filling the whole thing with mineral oil maybe and sealing it shut, then a good thermal pad to the scooter case and i doubt it'll ever overheat personally i bought a nice heatsink from reichelt and really thin heat conductive pad (0.127) that's double sided adhesive aswell cuz thin pads conduct heat better cuz even though i wont push em as hard, i defo don't want no overheating on my long commutes and the alu pcb version has a really flat case which will help the thermal pads, i'll go overkill and run 2 80mm noctua's on a stepdown converter, cuz i like overkill, i doubt i'll need it but it's always better than not having enough cooling :O, also when it stays colder it will be more efficient and maybe last longer aswell edit: the heatsink didnt fit in multiple ways (oops), just stuck the controllers down using the heat pad and have no fans in it either and for now it seems totally fine, i need to do a high speed run tho but with my current settings lowest temp it says 31°C (idle) and highest i've got was 33°C (110A phase current, -70A regen, each controller separately) with 2 throttles

[@davecherry-tree9294]

@@BH4x0r hola yo queria saber si pongo en el laotie ti30 60v esta controladora .: Flipsky-Robot de combate ESC 75200 84V 200A de alta corriente con PCB de aluminio basado en VESC para lámina electrónica, tabla de surf AGV-----o la 75100?..no creo que entre la 75100 ,es cuadrada y mas ancha que los originales jp de 25A---ayuda por favor tengo el patin echo unos zorros....no va el freno motor, no tengo luz de freno, y no va un motor..le meti mano yo y una vez me equivoque de cable y conector y hizo..!plas!...

[@BH4x0r]

@@davecherry-tree9294 Hello don't really understand it cause i don't speak Spanish, but 2x 75200 Alu PCB is what i'm gonna use in a Ti30 alike scooter (Boyueda S3), because 75100 Alu PCB doesn't have enough motor current, but 75200 you can go up to ~250A motor safely i can only say this in Spanish: no sé, habla Ingles?

[@iakovoscinematographer]

are you getting the new laotie scooters?

[@PirateWasHere]

I guess no ;)

[@marcoandreassesselmann933]

Hallo ich habe ne Frage Kollegs kann mir jemand. Behilflichen sein bei der Installation der 75100 75v in meinen s3 28 a ich möchte sie auf das licht Adapter löten auf die vorhanden Kontrolle klick Stecker bitte kann jemand so nett sein und mich unterstützen ich danke und schönen Tag noch

[@archietheproto7706]

The 75200 84v is out

[@r0ck3tdr1v3r]

100A current for 1000 watts? dont understand it

[@PirateWasHere]

Battery amperage and motor phase amperage has different values

[@r0ck3tdr1v3r]

@@PirateWasHere oh its read from the input watts? is there so much loss from battery -> controller -> motor?

[@dimatraval2651]

Hello sir. Ai wont to ask for my vsett8 48v 23ah it's good controler? Or need different?

[@PirateWasHere]

No idea