Flo-Tek Heads 3yr/3,000 mile UPDATE PN 203505 Small Block Ford Review

[@jimrutin]

Great video! Thank you for sharing. I've been restoring cars for a lifetime (I'm 65), and from my experience, pretty much all spring steel is crap these days. Those springs started out the same. They collapsed due to inferior quality of steel.

[@mustanghayes88]

the only reason the guides and the springs gave up so quick is because the valves and pistons were hitting each other. I don't care what head you use that will kill any valve train out there. the fact that even after the valves were getting hammered by the pistons at 6000rpm the ss valves didn't brake off. that alone shows these heads have good parts in them. I put the flo-tek 180 heads on an 88 coupe 5 speed 5.0 that ran 7.72 @ 93.8 mph with only a 1.9 sixty foot in n/a form. You can not beat these flo-tek heads. they are assembled here in the state and are backed by a 1 year warranty . I am doing a 306 sbf with 13.0.1 compression and 8500 rpms for a 8.2 stock block class with the flo-tek 190 cc cnc heads check my channel out for specs and video of the 306 build. I also have video of the 7.72 pass at 93.8 mph with the flo-tek 180 sbf head. i will add it to my channel. Also the customer service over at flo-tek is out standing Stephanie is a pleasure to deal with.

[@barder194]

cool story bro

[@kevinragsdale6256]

did you just run the stock springs in the flotek heads?

[@blkcoupequattro]

Bolted some ported J code heads with Ferrea 1.94 1.60 valves on my A code bottom end with .515 lift cam net .551, knew there would be clearance issues, took a die grinder opened the eye brows up a bit with a template, quick check with clay confirmed no problems runs awesome!

[@mitchmitchellson9058]

Issue was also the cam, the springs they come with aren't rated for a real aggressive roller since they have faster ramp rates. People have the same issues with the edelbrock e-streets, because they are designed for hydraulic flat tappets. F303 doesn't have tons of lift, but the duration is aggressive.

[@MCRmechanic]

It is possible I could have lost valve control at high rpm due to the heavier roller lifters and more aggressive ramp rates, causing piston-to-valve contact. I had my machinist (whom I, along with many other people, trust), check over the valve springs and my cam card and they said I shouldn't have any issues. The product description also states that the springs can be used with a "mild street hydraulic roller camshaft". This is a qualitative statement, but one could argue that the F303 camshaft falls into that category. With all that being said, I think the root of the problem is just minimum spec, lowest bidder, poor material quality valve springs that failed over time. Also, as a side note, I don't think the ramp rates would cause the spring to permanently deform as it only effects the strain rate applied to the spring. It's interesting to think about none the less. Thanks for commenting! You definitely got my wheels turning.

[@mitchmitchellson9058]

I agree no doubt, the heads don't have the best valvetrain in them for the sake of shaving some cost. The F303 isn't a real radical cam either, but like I said I would look more at the duration of it vs. the lift. Just sharing what I've seen from my research on different heads that I've used and what I know people have done with the e-streets, which I would say probably compare to these when it comes to valvetrain quality. The castings are good and they flow decently enough, they just don't spend enough money on those springs and such. Most people have zero issues once they change the springs and I know there were a couple of builders offering spring packages to remedy the issues when you wanted to use the roller. I haven't used these particular ones, but I saw them in a catalog I got this week and was looking them over for a potential budget build on a truck I got recently. Love your videos and thanks for the information and reviews. The mustang sounds and looks great, makes me miss my '66!

[@axlegrind4212]

+MCRmechanic did you put engine oil on the valve springs on the first start up? roller cams don't need break-in but the springs still need oil on them so they don't overheat. take a piece of wire and bend it back and forth until it breaks. notice how hot the wire is at the break. that's what you're doing to your valve springs without oil to cool them. all valve springs lose tension after first few hundred miles.

[@MCRmechanic]

Axle Grind The wire bending back and forth breaks because you are exceeding the fatigue limit of the material. It only gets hot because you are putting energy into it. Do the same thing with a strand of rubber. It’ll get hot, but won’t break. Try bending your wire in a bowl of ice water and it will still fail. Oiling the springs does not make a difference here because the material they are made from is operating well within the yield strength and fatigue strength limit. Springs are specifically designed using these criteria. If you’re interested, Machine design and material mechanics books have a plethora of information regarding this subject.

[@12speedfurd]

flat tapped springs don't work with roller cams. 100 lbs on the seat is barely enough for an aggressive flat tappet. Always match springs to the cam.

[@KingJT80]

Yeah he probably could have gotten away with a dual spring with 135 on the seat and a rate of around 400 lb/in and .600 max lift. Thats very general for a street use 6500 rpm max hydralic roller. A flat tappet is more like 110 seat and 315 320 open for a modern hydraulic flat tappet to not cause valve float..again very general but ive asked cam companies and head companies a lot of questions and they say it sounds good to go at those types of pressures That and he should have set the vavle train up with solid lifters or a lightweight checking spring Ya live and ya learn

[@psiewert83]

Exactly. Doesn’t Flotek specifically say on their site that the 203505 is for roller cam only?

[@KingJT80]

@@psiewert83 no you can do flat tappet with them too. There are 2 springs options. Neiher of them are that strong though

[@jimmywaters3987]

With all due respect, the rocker arm geometry, valve spring specs as to how they match up with the cam specs, ( flat tappet vs. hydraulic roller, and lift of cam being used) any and all things on these heads are the responsibility of the engine builder. The geometry is to be checked and rechecked by the builder. It's NOT the cylinder head manufacturer's job or responsibility for this ! Any good machine shop has a system of checks they will go through to verify parts, I. e., heads, valves, etc. You have to verify ALL your components before assembly, that way there is no surprises later on. In one comment, a guy was saying the pushrod made contact with the guide. Impossible ! The guide is on the other side of the head. What he meant to say was the pushrod contacted the pushrod clearance hole by the intake manifold face side of the head (remember? verifying parts, fitment, and clearances ! ) These things cannot be overlooked, otherwise, you will pay someone else to do what you should have done.Yes, all this sounds harsh, but it is not right or fair to blame a cylinder head manufacturer for something they do not have control over. Education, asking lots and lots of questions of an experienced engine builder/ cylinder head man helps. I did this for a living.

[@MCRmechanic]

Jimmy Waters With all due respect, I did all the things you mentioned. I verified the entire package and had a reputable machine shop that specializes in engines like these verify that the spring specifications were suitable to my cam card. Everything checked out. The fact of the matter is that these cylinder heads use cheap springs to help drive the price down. You gamble on the quality in this respect. As for the guides, the valve to piston contact put a side load on the head of the valve and wore the guide out. I do not blame the cylinder head manufacturer for this, but my own impatience for not checking valve to piston contact with checker springs instead of the normal springs because I didn’t have any checker springs at hand and was in a hurry to assemble the engine. The lifters bled down and gave me a false clearance. That is what happened.

[@no50svo]

Jimmy waters, a little research should have been done for your comment...

[@optimumperformance6998]

@@MCRmechanic Ford requires a min of 120/295# springs, the ramp on a roller cam can not be controlled will the low valve spring pressures you were running. You likely had valve contact from float the only reason you didn't destroy anything

[@KingJT80]

@@optimumperformance6998 yes. the pistons aren't the best but they should have worked. the springs on these heads for 130/310 would have been better. you could use those springs on a modern aggressive hydraulic flat tappet and use .050 locks to bring the seat pressure down to somewhere around 110 seat instead of 130. right for a hydraulic flat tappet otherwise for a good roller tappet, no....all the springs that comes with these heads will fail, even the upgraded ones i listed above. but flotek says they can upgrade the springs to what you want for extra cost. maybe that would have been a good idea here

[@jimrutin]

With a due respect Mr. Waters, you obviously have not spent a lot of time working with automotive aftermarket products. Otherwise, you would certainly know that there is a huge quality problem these days.Those springs started out the same. They collapsed.

[@KingJT80]

You've probably figured this out since then but you were correct about the pistons. Speed pro said theese pistons are meant for a 1.84 intake valve MAX. That was the answer I saw on summit racing. this is where whomever built this engine before you should have asked to verify because a lot of these 4 valve relief pistons cant use even a 1.94 valve. I'm torn between building a 347 stroker with promaxx 180s buy them bare and put all manley valvetrain them it or just bore my 302 to 306 and buy brodix st 5.0Rs and and the valves leak tested and verify installed spring height.

[@rambuseighty-eight8874]

Although I think these heads are questionable, let's not overlook the fact that any valve-to-piston contact would hammer the springs. I would be interested in knowing if ALL the springs were junk, or just the intake springs(?) I'm budget building a 393 or 408 stroker and need to know about these cheap cast-aluminum wonders, heads and intakes.

[@MCRmechanic]

rambus eighty-eight Only 2 springs did not meet spec. Valve to piston contact would not hurt the springs.

[@stevebankuti9336]

@@MCRmechanic you made a mistake..just take ownership for your incompetence....when you said how you checked piston to valve claerance,,,you should always use a solid lifter or remove inside spring from hydraulic lifter and put some nuts and washers inside so you have no preload when rotating engine..or use a test spring that comes in your degree wheel box from summit...this is basic engine building 101....if you put an engine together without basic 101 knowledge dont blame the product blame yourself

[@markmccarty9793]

I got a set of those heads! Never used them. Also got a set of professionally ported 289 heads with 1.94- 1.60 valves! Proven performers!! Thinking bout selling the cheap ass aluminum heads! Cheap! $400! Run my professionally ported 289 heads, I know they work. Just going in my 94F150! The aluminum heads are still rapped up!!!

[@MCRmechanic]

I’ll buy them if you’re selling them for $400. Send me a direct message if you’re interested.

[@markmccarty9793]

@@MCRmechanic ok, I think I still have the UPS rapers. Hit me up in a day or 2. They're definitely a step up from stock! I just have 2 sets of ported heads, the professionally ported set have 54 cc chambers, vs 64 with the aluminum heads! Plus, they want draw attention!

[@MCRmechanic]

@@markmccarty9793 Will do! Thanks Mark.

[@MCRmechanic]

@@markmccarty9793 Hi Mark. Just checking in on those heads. Shoot me an email at [e-mail] and we can talk business. Thanks!

[@markmccarty9793]

@@MCRmechanic I got a racing buddy that does this regularly. I'll catch up with him! I'll get them to you Saw a video where the 2.02 valve kissed the valve relief. Haven't forgot you, hope you get use outta the heads, I'm gonna use my ported heads with 1.94-1.6 valves! I'll use the money on an rpm intake and towards a carb@

[@MrOilcountry]

I agree there was some installation errors...., Contact the vendor and ask where the heads and components were manufactured. As Paul Harvey would say..., And that's the rest of the story.

[@Schlipperschlopper]

Sadly soon all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Now they want to slow down all the gas station pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.

[@malinoisdogtraining3441]

On my 289 the push rods are suppose to be 6.9 rather then stock 6.8 length. My car is a 65 289 c code 2 barrel. I ordered the flo tech 180 sbf heads with a 58 cc chamber. A cam with 500 lift.flo tech spec's says heads can handle up to 550 lift. Am I going to have valve piston clearance problems? Thanks in advance.

[@dustinheffker3524]

Hey there, did you ever figure that out?

[@malinoisdogtraining3441]

@dustinheffker3524 yes. The 347 stroker is in the mustang.running good No clearance issues.

[@dustinheffker3524]

Ahhh, you stoked it to 347ci. That's awesome. But I was wondering about the question pertaining to the 289. I have one and wanted to see if you used those heads on it while it was still stock?

[@malinoisdogtraining3441]

@dustinheffker3524 I'm sure you could.because the stock cam dosent have too much lift.. The other guys on here are way more knowledgeable than me.

[@jacquelinechellis4036]

The valve hitting the piston took out the guides

[@RaymondHufford]

Scary stuff for only 3k miles

[@MCRmechanic]

Raymond Hufford I agree, although I will say that most of these issues could have stemmed from my valve to piston clearance mismeasurement. What I concluded is that these heads should be upgraded with quality valve springs and the piston to valve clearance should be checked with a solid lifter. If that's done, I think these heads will last for a long time.

[@s.v.gadder1443]

You should only check piston to valve clearance with a solid lifter if that's what your using its not hard to pump a lifter up to check clearance....granted you made an error you should not ever need to replace the springs on a brand new set if heads granted I am but only bc the songs they came with don't meet my specs do they are getting changed but imo if they are selling captsprings then what else have they let slide? Not worth the risk imo

[@MCRmechanic]

I'll agree on the valve spring comment. I was leery about purchasing these heads just because of how cheap they were, but they came from a reputable source that I could return the product to, so decided to gamble and share my findings. When I received them I brought them straight to my machinist and had them inspected. They told me the quality was much better than a lot of other "no name" cheap aluminum heads they had seen come through the doors and that they would be suitable to my engine application (daily driver, occasional drag strip pass, under 6,500 rpm). Overall I'm pleased with them and if nothing else, they've made a good conversation piece. Thanks for the input!

[@fishinfool63]

then buy the head bare and put your own valves in...he had NO issue with the head nooo issue with a valve seat falling out..so so far this is a good head..and the valves did not break..so buy the bare put all comp cam and ferria stuff in and you have a reasonably priced head that flows well

[@reloadingfun]

Yeah, great video. I was wondering about these heads. I actually have some in the mail. You wouldn't happen to have the length of the valve you used, would you?

[@MCRmechanic]

Thank you! The valve length is 5.075”. Good luck with your new heads!

[@reloadingfun]

@MCRmechanic thanks. Now that it's been 5 years since this video, do you still think it's worth using these heads?

[@MCRmechanic]

@@reloadingfun I’m still happy with them. Of the “Chinese heads” I think these are better quality than some of the other offerings out there for the price. I am completely happy with them and when I tell people the power this little 302 makes they’re always surprised. If you haven’t seen them already, I have a overview of these heads as well as a dyno video on my channel. Have a good one!

[@reloadingfun]

@@MCRmechanic I was watching your dyno video again and noticed it was in fargo. I actually live in fargo. Are you from the area?

[@MCRmechanic]

@@reloadingfun Yes I am. I work up there.

[@luisaponte9165]

Hello, I am thinking to purchase a set of flo tek cylinder heads but want to change the valve and springs.Can you please list the part number of the intake and exhaust valve springs? Looking for the number you listed but could not find it. Also the exhaust valve springs

[@l.adcock]

IMHO, this is typical assembly error. First mistake, the valve to piston clearance should have been done with checking springs. Second, the valve springs appear to be for a flat tappet cam. The valve springs are more than likely responsible for the valve to piston contact. It appears that valve float is the culprit. If there had been valve to piston contact while the valve was being held open, the valve would have been bent.

[@MCRmechanic]

Interesting insight. How can you tell that these springs appear to be for a flat tappet cam?

[@wildbillo68]

Did you say you had a 1985 Roller Motor? I been lookin for some help... All the heads I see on line have either 1.90 or 2.02 intake valves... I want to bolt heads onto my STOCK motor and worried about Piston clearance ... I am keeping the stock Roller Cam (.444 lift I hear) so is there an issue? what Carburetor did you use? I don't think the original Holly 4180C is any good now being 33 yrs old lol....

[@WesternReloader]

wildbillo68 What heads did you end up going with? I am looking to buy the Flotek heads too, assembled and the Cam I’m looking at has .544 lift, so I’m hoping the clearance and spring pressures are correct. Their website says .50 max lift, but it’s close...

[@KingJT80]

@@WesternReloader if its a roller no spring they offer off the shelf will work it looks like a .544 roller lift cam most likely needs a seat pressure of at least 130 and an open pressure of 350-365 @ whatever lift your cam is. THIS IS VERY GENERAL!! if its less than 350-360lbs open @ .544 lift its probably gonna go sideways if its a roller cam. ask them to upgrade your springs at an extra cost if need be. it says they'll do PAC manley etc for extra on the website

[@Mark-fg6si]

Where are you located in Minneapolis I'm not too far and having the same issues with my flo tek heads on my 95 gt

[@MCRmechanic]

I’m actually located near Fargo, ND on the MN side. What’s going on with your heads?

[@andymartin4747]

Do you know the length valves are you used? I need a base point starting on bare heads I’m going to build

[@MCRmechanic]

The Ferrea F5059 intake valves that I replaced the original valves with are 5.075” long. Hope that helps!

[@ja69sportsroofs74]

Great information! I have the same heads, running ok, but I will look into the springs some day. Which rocker arms are you using? My biggest concern is that geometry is wierd so distance between stud and valve stem tip is short on these heads, so I run very short push rods to make the rocker contact in the middel of the valve stem. Love to hear how you came around this issue?

[@MCRmechanic]

Ja69sportsroof S I used a set of comp 1.6:1 ratio aluminum full roller rockers with factory length Ford 5.0 pushrods used for the factory roller lifters (which I have). This combination gave me a perfect sweep over the tip of the valve. Just to note, the flat tappet pushrods for these engines are much longer than the roller tappet pushrods. See my original review video for more details (in the description). Glad you liked the update!

[@MCRmechanic]

Ja69sportsroof S Comp Cams PN 17043-16 for the rocker arms.

[@ja69sportsroofs74]

Okay. That's strange, I use 17043-8 and they are too long.. so to get correct sweep the angle on my rocker in relation to push rod is very steep. I might try to get my hands on one of those -16 aluminium rockers :) or considering using oe 289 k-code style plate rockers without roller tip as it should be more forgiving when takling abort correct sweep on the valve stem.

[@MCRmechanic]

Ja69sportsroof S 17043-16 and 17043-8 are the same part, only one comes as a set of 16 while the other is a set of 8. Keep in mind, you do not want to have the tip of the rocker start in the middle of the valve tip but biased toward the intake side of the head, that way, as the rocker arm opens the valve, it should move away from the intake side towards the exhaust side of the head. When the everything is correct, you should be able to take the total distance the top of the rocker traveled over the valve top, divide it in half, and that should be at the center of the valve stem. Is this what you did?

[@ja69sportsroofs74]

MCRmechanic Sorry it is the roller tip Comp 1431-16 I have. I did exactly that. With my oe push rods the roller tip would roll over the edge of the valve stem when opening. Im surprised you did'nt have any issues with this. When compared to my stock 69 heads these heads have the valve positioned different and that's my problem :)

[@Diondo26]

cool info have a pair of brand new ones here and will port them a little just took the valves out today.. they haf shimms under the valve spring cup and one haead has 2 shimms and the other just one..?? dont know why. ??

[@MCRmechanic]

Marcel Rohde that's how they tailor the spring pressures to be the same. The springs won't be exactly the same right out of the box, so they add shims to increase the seat pressure to the spec that they want. Thanks for watching!

[@Diondo26]

seen you have an F cam ... yust ordered one of these too for my new engine.. what max Rpm are you running?

[@MCRmechanic]

Marcel Rohde check out my dyno video. There's a graph at the end that shows how these heads work with the F303 cam. If I remember right, the torque curve is pretty flat between 3500rpm to 5000rpm and peak horsepower hits at about 5800rpm. I usually shift it at 6000rpm.

[@Diondo26]

thanks.. just watched it..!!

[@craphittingthefan9445]

Yeah cheap springs will go bad and cause pistons to hit the valves as for the guides that is from your rockers having the wrong length push rods there not center in there motion

[@MCRmechanic]

CrapHitting TheFan The pistons hit the valves because the valve reliefs in the piston crown were too small. As for the pushrods, I checked the rocker arm sweep across the valve tips and they were right on the money with stock 5.0 pushrods. I went through the full range of motion and the sweep pattern was perfectly symmetrical about the center axis of the valve tip.

[@lynndragoman1573]

It sounds like you screwed up and now your blaming it on the heads

[@MCRmechanic]

I completely owned up to the valve to piston contact issues and didn’t blame the heads one bit. That is also what likely caused the guides to wear out prematurely, but to only have them worn on one head when all intake valves were making contact is why I can’t say that is the cause for certain. However, valve to piston contact will have no effect on valve spring integrity and so the spring issues can be blamed on the heads. Thanks for watching. Edit: spelling.

[@mtbdave31]

never pump up lifters. their supposed to collapse on the up stroke. that's how they pump oil to the top of the heads.

[@scottford1091]

Um... not really. They are only supposed to pump up the lash and thats it. The oil pump pressure through the lifter feeds the pushrods and rocker arms.

[@blkcoupequattro]

100lbs seat pressure is way to low for anything more than 6000 rpm. You need at least 125lbs seat pressure to run anything up to 6500rpm with a roller cam.

[@MCRmechanic]

I haven’t had any valve control issues since these springs were installed. Remember, spring pressure depends on the valve mass and cam lobe ramp rate, not just desired operating speed.

[@blkcoupequattro]

@@MCRmechanic in most respects, the seat pressure is most important, there is more mass in roller cam set up, I'm running hydraulic set up, revs to 6800-7k with 125lbs at the seat using a Comp double with damper spring. Comp makes great valve springs. I hear you on cam profile think red-line for mid late 80's Ford Mustang is 6200rpm, really more than enough considering the torque the engine makes down low. I'm building a 5.0 roller block with 289 rods, essentially what they did with the boss engine in 68, or a long rod 302, have yet to decide cam, and valve springs, my heads are pretty much set up with the bigger valves, just need to upgrade for the heavier valve train.

[@MCRmechanic]

blkcoupequattro sounds like a hell of a combination! Can’t wait to see how it comes out.

[@KingJT80]

Hell that spring pressure probably would have a hard time controlling a modern falt tappet like a lunati voodoo or comp xe I would think youd need 135 to 145 seat pressure dor a modern hydro roller cam something like a manley 22407 But it sounds like you had comp 987s? Thats whta the st5.0r brorix heads come with. I'm thubk about gwrting them and getting a height mics to verify installed sleing height and take them to a shop to make sure the valves dont leak so I dont have any issues.

[@blkcoupequattro]

mrhazel not uncommon for bracket racers to use 190lbs at seat my machinist said he had a set of heads come in they were 225lb at the seat, and off the gauge in open height...lol

[@Diondo26]

what Pushrod lenght do you run .. original is way too short !!!

[@MCRmechanic]

Marcel Rohde are you running a roller cam block or a flat tappet cam block? What style lifters? I have a 1985 roller block with factory roller lifters and the stock length 5.0L H.O. push rods are the perfect length for these heads with 1.6 comp roller rockers. If you have a flat tappet cam, the H.O. Pushrods will be too short.

[@Diondo26]

same as you XXX Block Ford Roller lifters F Cam and Compcam steel Rollers but Pushrods are to short ..

[@Diondo26]

comp cam Pushrods 6.25 long

[@Diondo26]

you are right !! I have comp cam 6.250 Pushrods.. and it seems still a bit too long .contact pattern is going towards exhaust side when valve opens! that means Rod too long.. ?!

[@thewt]

honestly, this makes me not want to purchase a set of flo-tek heads.

[@MCRmechanic]

To be clear, a lot of the issues I had were my fault, not the head's fault. I did the valve-to-piston clearance check incorrectly which lead to valve contact and prematurely worn guides. The valve springs, however, were low quality. I would suggest replacing them right away, or buying a set of bare flo-tek heads and add components of your choice from there. Overall, I am satisfied with these heads, especially considering the price.

[@s.v.gadder1443]

Walker Ashcraft never

[@fishinfool63]

then dont go spend 1500+ for heads

[@calescapee9642]

Too much lift. Add more duration instead

[@agaso8738]

SAME ISSU WITH MINE. GEOMETRY WAS WRONG AND HAS COST ME PLENTY! Mine were shipped with the rocker studs too close to the valve. I measured the pushrod length and it was just below 6" which seemed short to me. 1500 miles later one of the pushrods rubbed the guide so hard that it sheared the guide and I bent an exhaust valve when the rocker arm stepped off the valve. I was half way across the country so I spent more than a grand getting the car home. They have been back to Flotek twice and each time they have taken a month to repair them. They are still terrible. I am not the only one to have this problem. Do not buy these heads unless you have $$$ to burn. Just buy real heads and save yourself the trouble. The budget roller rockers they tell you to buy from Speedway are just as bad. I can't believe Speedway is backing this irresponsible manufacturer.

[@vicmoya75]

Agaso sorry to hear that, I have the same issue as you with geometry and my pushrods measured just a little over 6” called up tristate cylinder heads and was told that the 1.6 roller rocker I’m using is wrong, and that I should purchase the one from speedway which I believe is pure bs.

[@jpoe3358]

Speedway recommended a sbc rocker arm on my 203505 sbf heads to correct the geometry. Flat tappet cam/block. I ordered a pushrod length checker, and then comp pushrods. Needless to say I should've spent the money on better parts it sucks. They are up and running, make decent power, but the geometry is always in the back of my mind. After all that the geometry still wasn't ideal. Will do a check after 500 miles. I'm pretty sure I'm not going to be happy.

[@fishinfool63]

there was ZERO geometry issue with the heads..my guess is your a hater for the Corral..or you never owned a pair