Flushing the Cooling Passages of a Marine Diesel Engine - Voyage Dreams 83

[@SailingSweetMadness]

I purchased 1982 Cape Dory 25D Hull #1 a couple of months ago. You're videos have been a great resource for me. Thanks for sharing!!

[@anthonyelyas2040]

Thanks for making these videos. I sail a typhoon senior; little sister to the 25d.

[@VoyageDreams]

Glad you like them! The Typhoon looks like a fun boat.

[@anthonyelyas2040]

@Owen Sutton it is, and the senior, at 22 feet LOA, is also a blast. I was shopping for a good 25D when I came across this boat.

[@edh7658]

I was surprised how smooth it ran, Good Luck and Thanks

[@VoyageDreams]

Thank you, Ed. I was a bit surprised too, to be honest.

[@benhill7581]

Awesome! You made it simple enough that it's easy to follow

[@jazzman7160]

Great video. They are great little engines. You are doing a great job of showing the intricacies of how the fuel system works and the cooling system. Thank you for the details! If I had space I too would pull the engine so I could work on it. Getting around that 1GM in my 25D is challenging. How does the oil pan look. I had quite a bit of water in the area underneath the engine when I bought her. It was coming from topside. I believe coming from the trim around the rudder/tiller. Thanks again!

[@VoyageDreams]

Thank you, Jazz Man! It's absolutely no fun trying to work on the backside of the engine in a 25D. In the case of my 1GM, the oil pan looks in good shape, though the oil pipes are questionable (I'll be looking at those in an upcoming video). I too typically have standing water beneath the engine. In my case it comes primarily from the prop shaft packing gland, but doesn't reach the pan before overflowing to the bilge.

[@jazzman7160]

@@VoyageDreams Hello Owen. I bought new oil lines for my 1GM. They are made of copperous/nickel and won't rust up like the soft steel ones Yanmar makes. A fellow from the UK sold them to me. I tried to leave the URL but I think it got kicked out because of the length of the URL. If you would like I can email it to you.

[@VoyageDreams]

Thank you, @@jazzman7160. I found replacements via a dealer local to me (also copper of some sort), so those will be going in upon reassembly.

[@marclaforest3282]

For an easy start .engage the decompressor start the engine couple second and drop the decompressor it will start right away and run smooth

[@Ramenscooter]

Good job 👍

[@VoyageDreams]

Thanks 👍

[@maui6446]

The white smoke while cranking is un-combusted fuel and air. Cool little motor!

[@VoyageDreams]

Thanks for this Maui!

[@mansourbenyamina2157]

Thank you, great video. I hope you can explain the refrigeration cycle for beginners in detail if you have time

[@VoyageDreams]

Thank you for your comment. I'll consider an explanation for the cooling circuit, but I'm not sure I could provide much in the way of detail.

[@richhamel6810]

Well done,

[@VoyageDreams]

Thank you, Rich!

[@gking5522]

Persistence pays off. I would not usually attempt running the starter continuously as long as you did. It's something my Yanmar mech said many years ago. He felt it messed up the starter over time. Just a thought. Keep working and I'll follow your "adventures" in sailboat re-hab. ;8>)

[@VoyageDreams]

Thank you, G! You are correct: it's not a good thing to run a starter for very long. I have to admit I was getting impatient. Doing a small bit of research on this I've found that the trouble with running a starter for "tool long" stems from heat build-up induced by the large electrical current running through the motor and its lack of cooling features (unlike an alternator, for example, that is designed to alleviate heat build-up). Starter motors have ~10% duty cycle; if you run them for 1 minute, you'll want to allow cooling for 9 minutes. I couldn't find anything definitive, but found that some recommend not running a starter motor for more than 30 seconds. Looking back at my footage, I see that I ran the starter for no more than 20 seconds at each attempt (though it seems a lot longer). Thanks again for spurring me to learn more about this.

[@harrykrumpacker871]

Make sure you change out that raw water pump impeller!

[@VoyageDreams]

Thank you, Harry! When I first read your comment I was a bit dubious and wish you had shared more about why you recommended this action. Looking into it, I found that most water impellers are made from neoprene (with some being made of nitrile and some of EPDM). Neoprene doesn't hold up well to concentrations of hydrochloric acid (which is what "muriatic" acid is). I suspect the low concentration I used and the small amount of time I used it will have an insignificant impact, but I agree that it's a good idea to get that changed. Luckily, I have quite a few replacements at hand. Thanks again for nudging me to learn more.

[@parkoursutton2314]

"Im not a fast thinker" lol

[@VoyageDreams]

Ha ha! I'm glad you liked that. Thanks for watching!