FORD 4.0 SOHC TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER REPLACEMENT FORD SPORT TRAC

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My 2004 ford sport Trac timing chain tensioner replacement. 4.0 SOHC ford 4.0 timing chain tensioner sport trac

[@danstromness5165]

Bear in mind that the SOHC-V6 has THREE tensions. The (internal) timing chain tensioner does not normally got bad and cannot be accessed externally. The cam-chain tensioner replaced was for the driver's side bank ONLY. The passenger-side bank is more difficult to access because it is in the REAR of the engine...but it is doable. If ya have to replace one...just do them both for piece of mind. It's s leisurely day's work for both. Ignoring the rattle WILL destroy your chain-guides. Destroyed chain guides is by far the most common problem to an otherwise reliable engine.

[@bobbyb9718]

I have the exact same issue on my 2004 Explorer. The replacement procedure is slightly different due to manifold design change, but this was very helpful nonetheless. Thanks for posting!

[@onrdetailingnews802]

It don't hurt nothing I know someone had this noise a drove the truck 15 years before it jump timing

[@bradharper9282]

I used a cheap $10 tensioner and it has LESS tension than my 17 year old oem. Order the oem parts he linked and do it right the first time. Im just happy my cassette is in one piece so I don't have to take the cover off again (replaced main tensioner last weekend). Regardless of tensioner used, soak and squeeze in oil. It works a ton better that way. Side note: mine only has 85k miles.

[@MichaelWilliams-nx7gh]

did you prime it

[@xelercheddar8026]

You dont have to prime just install and start in flood mode to build pressure

[@ChristopherJones16]

@@xelercheddar8026start in flood mode? What is this... flood mode?

[@umageddon]

@@ChristopherJones16start it with the ignition system off for oil pressure to build

[@victoryengineer]

Wow, just want to clear things up a bit. There are several people saying the driver's side is easier to change. Do not listen to them as they have no clue what they are talking about. The passenger side tensioner is only a ten minute job and only requires one wrench. Also, if you are already getting the noise (plastic timing chain guides) it's too late. Starting in 1997 poor quality tensioners were installed from the factory. By 1999, they started to fail and Ford said the failures were due to poor maint. In 2001 Ford finally investigated and found the springs in the tensioners were failing. Some time in 2002 they started using the improved tensioners. Even if you Ranger/Explorer is a post 2002 year, it's wise to replace your tensioners now before the timing chain guide rattle begins. It's also very important to use only genuine Motorcraft tensioners. If the temsioners fail, you will be having the engine pulled to replace the timing chain cassettes. I hope this helps clear up the misinformation in the comments section.

[@BWater-yq3jx]

Depends. My '03 Explorer doesn't have all that intake crap etc above the tensioner which is next to the thermostat housing. All you have to do is remove the sensor to allow the socket space to fit in. Super easy. Unlike the one down the side.

[@BWater-yq3jx]

I've also found that the springs are not the main issue. I pulled the old ones and they had at least as much spring strength as the Genuine OEM replacements. However, I think as the chain gets worn and stretched, the tensioner needs to be fully extended to keep it tight, and that initial 1/2" or so when you squeeze the tensioner is not as strong as the rest of the travel. So at that point it's up to the oil to do the job, but what happens after awhile is they don't hold oil for very long, like only hours instead of days. New tensioner does fix that.

[@debrahuddleston1310]

The truck looks brand new!! WOW! Good Job!

[@JoeBlowski]

The reason Hans Gruper's comments (below) attempting to help failed miserably and should be ignored is because he doesn't understand that the tight side of the chains will not let valve springs rotate the cams backwards, which is why crankshaft position does not matter when replacing tensioners. He is correct that the SOHC version of the 4.0 is an interference engine unlike the OHV version which is not and extremely important to understand when working on SOHC timing. I would never hand prime these tensioners, because it only makes them too long which is harmful with zero benefit because they self prime to correct length via oil pressure within seconds and the internal springs won't allow chains to jump. I think it's a very good idea to replace the hydraulic tensioners at about 70,000 miles to try to prevent the serious damage of plastic parts breaking which is often caused by malfunctioning tensioners that cause the chains to slap against plastic parts that have become brittle. Malfunctioning tensioners leak down when parked and cause startup rattle until pressure builds which is often a temporary chance to replace them before they destroy the plastic components.

[@illusiontv92]

I am gonna have to do this on my 01 ranger edge with the 4.0 I believe. It started making that rattling noise this winter

[@poppa861]

Updates?

[@randyfurness2415]

I just replaced both of these in my 2002 XLS Explorer . Turned out that the tiny hole on the tensioner tip was clogged . That explains the intermittent tapping . Replaced them with the NAPA o.e.m. parts . I've had several customers try to clean the old ones to save money . Don't do it !! Two came back with broken chain guides , which pretty much means replace engine on these models .

[@lastgengamers1137]

Was gonna attempt this come spring. Tho my rattling happens when the engine is warm and rattles in idle. But winter it runs quiet for the most part until oil warms up. Tho at 186,000 miles on a 05, I'm not surprised. Just hope that my tucks timeing chain hasn't been damaged because of loose warn out tensioners.

[@AtOneMent1844]

1:13 Before 5:38 After. Thanks for making this video.

[@munnday86]

Babe In Christ your welcome

[@bh4190]

Tha main issue causing the noise is the cam chain guides, they are moat likely broken and/or gone altogether.

[@hansgruper872]

You got lucky. Anyone attempting this job please be aware - set the engine to TDC before pulling the tensioner. Depending on the position of the cam the valve springs will cause the cam to jump then you are out of time. You'll blow the engine if you don't realize this. Same goes for the rear. For anyone rebuilding - you need the special cam tools. Only buy Ford OEM components as the others are of bad quality. The engine needs to be pulled or the trans dropped to access the rear cam guide bolt.

[@munnday86]

Hans Gruper why would the engine need to be a TDC...

[@hansgruper872]

munnday86 Because at TDC all the valves are closed on the drivers side head. This engine uses roller cams with VERY strong valve springs. The valve springs produce more tension than the hydraulic chain tensioner. If you remove the chain tensioner with the cam sitting at the wrong spot, the valve springs may snap backwards into a closed position thus putting you out of time and bending your valves (interference engine).

[@munnday86]

Hans Gruper simply replacing the tensioner will no make it get off timing.

[@hansgruper872]

munnday86 yes it will. The cam chain has so much slack in it. I know from personal experience tearing down the block and replacing every part.

[@munnday86]

Hans Gruper i have seen the mechanics of the chain and tensioners they will not fall off the cam gear teeth.

[@violr]

Hey, mine Ford 4.0 was sitting on the lift for 5 months, Ive started it few times for few minutes or seconds, when I was changing oil, transmission oil and spark plugs. The oil in car was quite pld, because the previous owner (1st owner) park the vehicle for nearly 8 months and just reparked it sometimes and using it anymore. When ive bought my car I drove with it few time, I made about 100 kms in it before put it on the lift to do service. It was not rattling, after 5 konths, Ive finished the service and start the vehicle, go out and wash it, after then its started to making this noise, firstly it was not so loud and was doing it for about few minutes, I go for the first ride and after 4 kms when engine was warm, it has started to rattle again louder. Ive stopped it, left it for a day and then started it again and the rattling was there but much much quiter qnd went away for about a minute again. Could be the tensioners gone, Due to I have changed the fresh new oil (orig. FORD 5W30), so they do not have enough pressure because of thr new thin oil? (I dont know, which oil were previous owner using).

[@johnf7365]

Do you have to prime the new tensioner before installing? Or can I go ahead without priming seeing that it would be easier this way. It would be easier to install without priming and less risk of cross threading due to less tension when making contact on the guides. What do you think?

[@munnday86]

I did prime them in oil. But start the tensioner by hand and you wont cross thread it.

[@UP5853]

Question. Do the holes in the tensioner line up with block once it’s screwed in?

[@chipcook6646]

It flows into

[@BWater-yq3jx]

Forgot to check that. But it's not like you have a choice; you need to tighten to spec, so wherever it ends up rotated to is how it's gonna be.

[@lordvader3283]

I got a noise like that on a 4.0 SOHC engine at 252,000. But using a mechanics stethoscope I don't hear the noise from the chains, but rather the fuel injectors are clicking very loudly.

[@juangaming4329]

Did you ever fix the issue I have the same problem

[@BWater-yq3jx]

That engine has served its time, lol.

[@XDLaughPLUR]

2001 4.0 on my explorer sport. During a cold start the chains make noise for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that both when idling and driving at any RPM. Even if the engine is turned off after completely warming up and then turned back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up… I replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference in getting rid of the 2 seconds of cold startup rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners and the reason I replaced them in the first place. When I removed the old tensioners they both seemed to still have good resistance when trying to compress them compared to the new ones which indicates the old ones were “probably” still ok. Again, after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it’s quiet and it never rattles or makes noise any other time. One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it when cold, it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until after about 10 seconds and when I see the oil pressure gauge move to the middle, I let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle. Is this my guides that are broken or is this normal to have a second or two of rattle when the engine is completely cold to build oil pressure and have it get to the tensioners so they tighten up to hold the chain? I’ve had this vehicle for a little over a month now and the symptom has stayed exactly same even after replacing the tensioners and changing the oil using high mileage oil and Motorcraft filter. I just want to know if this is normal or if it’s not and I should get rid of the vehicle if a larger problem is imminent.

[@munnday86]

Sounds like guides are going. Mine still makes the start up rattle sound aswell. Gonna run it till it blows

[@XDLaughPLUR]

@@munnday86 is the startup rattle that yours makes only 1 or 2 seconds as well and then it goes away? Or does it rattle continuously until warmed up?

[@munnday86]

@@XDLaughPLUR if Iet the truck sit for a week it's worse on start up. Maybe 5 to 10 seconds of rattle the tensioner loses all the oil and needs to build oil pressure to fill it back up to stop the rattle

[@hondaslave-kd6hi]

​@@XDLaughPLURdoes yours rattle all the time? Mine will rattle at idle only warm and goes away with any throttle response.

[@jamesdehansr.988]

299000+ , I think Ford did OK 👍 Should have rethought the whole 3 chain timing thing...but chains are better than belts as far as durability. It is all a trade off.

[@djmcdonald6541]

Can you do a video, or list the place you got your air intake filter? It looks pretty dope

[@munnday86]

I will try to find where I got the intake from

[@jamesdehansr.988]

If the cassette or "guide" for the chain has broken, then you will need a new engine. Or a replacement/rebuild.

[@mikejones-dj2df]

did you have to match up the holes?

[@MADFACEPSP]

Aw man under your hood looks so clean, I'm new to this, I just recently brought a 2003 sport Trac, how do I clean it like that?

[@munnday86]

Lots of armorall. And elbow grease

[@ecmjr]

That's a nice looking truck!

[@rolandm3441]

Sounded like a diesel at first...lol good job on the video

[@cesarc6757]

Thanks, helped alot!

[@Marchvibes]

did you have to put on a washer with it ?

[@munnday86]

Yes the tensioner has to have a washer on it.

[@Mr420ryan420]

Great video Thank you

[@joerivas9847]

Didnt do 1/2 of that to R&R the tensioner. 27mm socket, long extension, removed the water temp via the clip, and throttle body. Did remove the valve cover to put pressure on the guide, so it would be easier to screw the tensioner in. And that sucker was installed by King Kong!!

[@sonidodesmadrosodedjtotis4206]

That such a friend a question I want to change the same tensor but I worry if you get out of time is this possible?

[@joelgastelum3478]

I had all the guides , chains and cassets replaced except these tensioners on my 04 explorer . There's still a little chain noise in rear side by the firewall. Could it be that the original engine tensioners are worn and dont apply enough pressure on it as it should ? I used Ford parts only btw. Thanks.

[@ToneCabinet]

Doesn't make sense to change all of that and not change the tensioners too. They all wear together.

[@jiwbink]

MOST TIMING GUIDE/CASSETTE KITS COME WITH REPLACEMENT TENSIONERS.. SEVERAL GASKETS TOO..

[@williamgleaves1954]

Great video. I hate to see it but it smokes from teh drivers side valve cover just like mine does! Next job.

[@mts7274]

'04 Ranger FX4 also smokes on the driver side.

[@lajack5273]

My 2002 explorer XLT 4.0 4wd all I have to take off to take top tensioner out is temp sending unit out WTF

[@BWater-yq3jx]

Same. Thank Chr'st I don't have alll that shite in the way. Also for when I replaced the thermostat housing.

[@latiatate721]

Looking for help..how to fix my 2001 ford explorer soprt trac utility pick up timeing belt

[@munnday86]

The sport trac has a timing chain. Not a belt

[@cameronmoon4690]

I have a hum coming from the same general area, not sure if they are related

[@jorgetoloza269]

Great video..dude..hope its my front one ..Itvrattles on cold start.

[@RathJ13]

the rear one is actually way easier. just take the tire off and the inner splash guard off and it's a clear shot. The front one is a lot more work to get to.

[@cliftonoyarzo4025]

This driver side is the easier of the two on this engine. The passenger side is a little more work, i.e., taking out the whole engine to access because there's no room to do it otherwise. You're fortunate that it was just the driver side. Good job on the driver side, though :)

[@munnday86]

I disagree the passenger side only requires you to go into the passenger fenderwell next to the tire .Its already exposed. All you need is a socket abd bam take it out. Put the new one in.

[@cliftonoyarzo4025]

Possibly because mine is a Ranger and yours is Explorer Sport Trac...engine bay a little different but same engine. Maybe you don't have that huge honkin' HVAC crap in the way. Legit :)

[@munnday86]

@@cliftonoyarzo4025 you probably are correct

[@prestoncondie7613]

I was able to do it on my Ranger without pulling the engine. Took 10 minutrs

[@yername31]

how did you get the new started mine keep trying to cross thread did pry something to keep it aligned ?

[@JoeBlowski]

I'd bet you followed the poor advice to prime them.

[@yername31]

@@JoeBlowski i follows the poor advice that said you didn’t need to take off the intake manifold. and then just did it and it worked

[@harleywood9588]

Did you soak to tensioners in oil prior to installing?

[@munnday86]

Yes I did. I let it sit for a couple days and rotated it daily to remove air bubbles

[@bingocouple]

@@munnday86 So you pretty much primed them before installing them?

[@VWRICH23]

Did you remove the coolant temp sensor? Mine is directly in the way of the tensioner

[@munnday86]

rich yes i removed the whole thermostat housing.

[@bingocouple]

Yes. Both of them

[@bingocouple]

Yes i removed them

[@MustangGuy1996]

Hey at 4:08 I noticed that the original tensioner you removed had a washers/gasket on it. I' m looking online on various websites that sell the OEM motorcraft tensioners and it appears none of them come with washers/gaskets..I would imagine you need a washer so it doesn't leak. In that case, then can you just use any washers that fit on the tensioner? Thanks

[@munnday86]

I belive it's a very specific thin washer. I reused my old one.. I would do the same

[@chipcook6646]

Extra part

[@thealamadrid8145]

I see some smoking right of the engine oil dip stick at 5:52 of the video, it is the same with my sport trac 2005. It is an oil leak getting in contact with the exhaust manifold. Can you tell me if it is a serious problem? What causes it. And how can i troubleshoot it. Thank you!

[@ivancuellar4290]

I have an 02 Explorer Sport and it does the same thing. I think you're right. The leak is probably coming from a bad valve cover gasket. Not a hard job but its a pain in the ass

[@xCptLegendx]

Just an FYI, I'm pretty sure these engines have a timing chain front and rear

[@munnday86]

Yes they do. I just did the front because that was the one failing. The passenger side is super easy to change

[@Reconrick79]

Have you made a video for the other timing chain tensioner yet?

[@munnday86]

Nope not yet. Its super easy to do the passenger side.

[@Reconrick79]

@@munnday86 where’s the location of the passenger side tensioner?

[@Deerector]

@@Reconrick79 I have to do the passenger side on Ranger. someone posted something about u can destroy your engine if something is out of place.. Im worried about that now... is the passenger side like that?

[@RCsFinest]

What about the right cylinder timing chain? Is that in the back near the firewall?

[@munnday86]

That is correct Just take the wheel off and its super easy to get to.

[@cliftonoyarzo4025]

@@munnday86 Mine isn't :(

[@570outlaws6]

Tourqe spec for the top ?

[@JohnJohn-xu6gk]

How tight did you go bolt? Will be doing this weekend. Thanks

[@munnday86]

You might want to look up the torque specs. But it does have to be tighten down quite a bit.

[@JohnJohn-xu6gk]

32 lb-ft thank you

[@bingocouple]

I changed mine out exactly as you did, but now I have a major oil leak. Gonna tear it apart again and see if I can fix it. As soon as I start the vehicle, the oil starts runnong down the side by the alternator.

[@munnday86]

The front timing chain tensioner is not on the alternator side. U might have a bad valve cover gasket

[@bingocouple]

@@munnday86 Its running down the side with the alternator,

[@munnday86]

bingocoupl is the leak coming from the valve cover gasket. Or the timing chain tensioner

[@bingocouple]

@@munnday86 Im going to torque down the tensioner again tomorrow with a tprque wrench, 65lbs , right. And I do not think it is coming from the valve cover . It wasnt leaking before .

[@bingocouple]

Also, I took out the brand new tensioner and it is compressed a little and wont come back out. What do I do, just install it and hope it comes out or get another one? My tensioner didnt come out like yours did, my old one I had to use the ratchet all the way out, no finger turning on this one.

[@Flippinginthecarolinas]

Sounds like its time to replace the Timming chains which is normal for these i have a 2001

[@munnday86]

Jacob Joyner how hard of a job was it.. Any special tools.

[@Flippinginthecarolinas]

I haven't had time to do it but its a Major repair. and if you replace the frond may as well do the one in the back they go out easy But you will hear a clicking sound thats when you know shes about to go

[@BWater-yq3jx]

Which means it's time for a new car.

[@josel.aguilar7228]

Can you tell me the Best brand on chain tensiones on 4,0 tkank you Mexicali BC México,,,

[@chipcook6646]

Motorcraft or Ford Original OME

[@jessicajimenezlara8802]

Mine dont go all the way in do u have any advise

[@munnday86]

Make sure you start the tensioner by hand or you could cross thread..

[@jessicajimenezlara8802]

@@munnday86 thats what i did i crossed thread any advice would be really helpful

[@munnday86]

@@jessicajimenezlara8802 i dont want to give you any wrong advice. You would have to retap the threads. I dont know if they sell a tap that big..

[@emekaonuoha370]

You can cut four slots on the old tensioner and use it as a giant threading tool.

[@chrisz.9974]

Did you get to do the rear ones?

[@munnday86]

No never needed to. But is super simple. Just move the wheel well guard out of the way. And remove and install a new one.

[@chrisz.9974]

@@munnday86 so there’s 4 total? My friend only ordered me two.

[@munnday86]

@@chrisz.9974 there is only 2 of them

[@chrisz.9974]

@@munnday86 gotcha! So you only managed to change the easy one lol. Ya I don’t want to change the one under the intake lol. But my thermostat o-rings are leaking. So I’ll have to do that soon.

[@munnday86]

@@chrisz.9974 the opposite. In the video I changed the hard one on the left side of the motor next to the intake. The easy one is the right hand side next to the fender well.

[@fishingwithtucker9606]

What kind of lift do you have and size tires

[@munnday86]

Torsion twist up front and 2 inch shackles in the back. And tires are 32x11.5r15

[@prestonsnyder5627]

Watched all these videos on the Ford 4.0 timing chain tensioner, no one has mentioned that early 2001 sport trac and older 4.0 models, this technique does not work, on those models you have to pull the intake manifold, the intake on these models are different than every video I have seen online...

[@loudiaz1292]

This was what happened to mine, but one day it quit on me going down the road. What do I do to fix it? Is it too late?

[@munnday86]

Lou Diaz the tensioner or timing chains quit?

[@loudiaz1292]

munnday86 I'm pretty sure the tensioner was where the noise was coming from. But idk if the chain broke or jumped time, I had it towed home. the guy mechanic my buddy knows said just to junk it but before this timing chain issue the truck ran really good

[@munnday86]

Lou Diaz see if you can find a replacement motor. Try craigslist.

[@loudiaz1292]

munnday86 ty

[@joepedroza4707]

Wow that rattle sounds worse than mine and its continuous. Mine lasts about 5 seconds.

[@MichaelWilliams-nx7gh]

damn the long ads. youtube starting to suck

[@munnday86]

Sorry man. I wish I could find a way to support the channel without them.

[@tarzan30809]

Thanks for the video. Do you have to prime the new tensioner with oil before installations?

[@munnday86]

Yes please prime the tensioners.

[@bootyhatcher]

Mine makes this noise after it warms up some could this be my problem?

[@drowinwasteland]

Might be, or it might be the timing guide cassettes

[@W0RLDSSMALLESTVI0LIN]

No, cassettes/guides

[@marcoantoniogregorio8981]

Mine does the same thing, what happened, what was the problem and how did you solve it?

[@Marchvibes]

can someone please please help me I did the same thing the noise got louder and faster and all my oil leaked from idk where cause I was nowhere near working on the bottom.

[@munnday86]

You have to make sure the timing chain tensioner are soaked in oil and have to be prefilled before install.

[@Marchvibes]

@@munnday86 I did that and reinstalled, the oil leak is massive I can't tell where exactly its coming from but im not able to drive it

[@abracely1324]

Did u prime it before installing the new one?

[@MrRockydee07]

Have a 2001 Exployer sport trac had same problem , Thay have differnt 4.0 engines and ford did recall some them for this .

[@munnday86]

I WISH THEY DID RECALLS

[@MrRockydee07]

@@munnday86 Yes thay did have certain engines on a recall, But only on certain vin numbers , But me just put the new engine in with the improvements, Thay sure screwed up ..... LOL

[@armandosilvestreibarraolve6907]

Andaleeee

[@joshsmith1355]

Anyone in north Carolina wanna help me fix mine?

[@derekaugerbright]

What was the 8th digit of the v.i.n. on the this truck?

[@munnday86]

derek augerbright um kinda a wierd question.. Why whatsup

[@BrianSmith-lo3mj]

The eight digit of the VIN on a Ford Vehicle with the 4.0 SOHC is E.

[@anthonyevans4000]

Sounds the same.

[@odellus]

what is the point of trolling on a video like this

[@JourneyToTheTruthandTR]

I agree. No difference. His timing chain is the issue.

[@1Patient]

No, you did not fix it... you need to get in there and replace the cassette.

[@munnday86]

Seems to work alot better. No more chain slap. Sooo

[@1Patient]

@@munnday86 To me, it sounded just as loud... I have heard other videos before and after, and they were whisper quiet. Maybe there is some echo going on with the garage. I have to do this to mine now, except, I have to dig in there and do the Cassette as well. Maybe I am just not realizing that all I have to do is replace the Hydraulic Tensioner Bolt, and be done with it. I will try that first. Thanks for replying. How long did that repair last on your vehicle?

[@munnday86]

@@1Patient no worries. The truck is still driving fine till this day after the repair

[@1Patient]

@@munnday86 I just uploaded the sound of mine...>>> kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3fdiKGulN6Zmqs

[@steveharvey7712]

bb gun