Ford 6R80 Transmission Fluid Change

[@SOLDbyYOU]

A few comments earlier a viewer noted the unusual way that the poster installed the pan, gasket and filter “all at the same time “… due to the pickup tube interfering with the drain bung…. I found the same difficulty in the install and I chose to take an alternate resolution. As convenient as that drain plug in the fluid pan is… I couldn’t tolerate ANY doubt with CORRECT filter insertion into the feed port….. So I took the Dorman Fluid pan back to the car parts place and got my money back. And for $11.00 ( plus another $4.00 for additional crush washers… I bought the “DIY DORMAN Pan Drain Plug Install Kit”… I elected to place the drain kit on the foreward “sloped wall ” of the bottom -most pickup sump / LOWEST part of the pan…but the “front wall” …This avoids the filter pickup tube so the pan reinstall looks and feels normal ..but it leaves a few ounces of fluid in the sump …but that trade off is ( for me) the best choice. I found that the “ fluid refill sequence “ was… THE TRUCK…MUST…BE…LEVEL…. or pretty close to level. IF YOU ARE PARKED ON A SLOPED DRIVEWAY… EITHER FIND A MORE LEVEL WORK AREA OR … If the slope is MINOR… Point the front of the car down hill Chock the rear wheels and apply full brakes…make damn sure that the truck won’t drift / shift … Jack up the front of the truck to MAKE THE TRUCK LEVEL..( I placed a caroebnters level on the passenger running board to get the “level” close) Place high quality jack stands under the frame. Lower the frame onto the stands … but I also kept the jack snugged up as well. SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY.. DO THIS WRONG AND YOU GET HURT. Then ..with the truck level and SAFELY STABIL… 1) with the engine not running …pump in 4 1/2 qts of tranny fluid… then 2) start the engine and let it idle while you cycle between Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive… I waited five seconds in each position ..then moved to the next . I did the shifting ( four or five times) this assures that fluid is pushed into the many different passages ( circuits). Then…. For me this was the tedious part…. 3) with the engine still idling add a qt of fluid and check the dip stick…. Once I saw fluid just starting to touch the bottom of the dip stick I learned that adding another qt brought the level into the middle of the lower cross hatched area.. ( the cool BUT RUNNING section of the dip stick.) Step number two was the difficult part as I had a small electric fluid pump but I DID NOT have the 180 degree bent insertion stainless or copper ( stiff) tube… so I had to fish vinyl tubing into the fill port multiple times… ..then add a little fluid… then use the check stick…. Then fish the vinyl tube in and pump in a little more…. All NEXT TO THE HOT CAT CONVERTER .. but it wasnt “THAT “ bad… ERGONOMICS was the saving factor… If you are doing the job on the ground and you are laying under the car… I’m right handed… so laying under the passenger side of the vehicle …my body was PARALLEL to the truck body… my feet rear ward… you can use you right hand to access the fill port while remaining forward and clear of the Cat. The RIGHT answer is …. FIND THE DAMN stainless or copper bent insertion tube. That will make the fluid fill steps MUCH EASIER. FINALLY…now that I’ve done it… For me the fluid replacement will be MUCH quicker nest time. ASSUMING THAT I ONLY DRAINED THE PAN …AND… REPLACED THE FILTER 1) install 4 1/2 qts of tranny fluid… 2) start the engine and cycle through the gears…. WITH THE ENGINE STILL RUNNING… 3) install another two qts of tranny fluid .. ( a total of 6 1/2 qts) Ck the dipstick and note that the fluid is indicating in the middle of the lower cross hatched section.. for a “ cool” ( just recently started) engine… middle of the lower cross hatch area…? Done. DO…NOT….Allow the fluid to be “ over serviced” … too much fluid can be bad too… Middle of the lower cross hatch if the engine was “ just started”… Or… somewhere in the upper cross hatch if the engine is HOT. YMMV Finally there’s an old saying… Tranny fluid and engine oil are cheeeep… Trannys and engines are not.

[@GTurbski]

It seems like you should be the one posting the how to videos!

[@SOLDbyYOU]

@@GTurbski team work

[@kylehill4437]

I would do another flush until it turns red, not a mechanic or an expert just because my OCD would be killing me 😅. Great video hope it fixes the issue.

[@GTurbski]

That's the plan! Having a drain plug makes it a much less involved task. I figure I'll run this fluid until my next oil change interval and do the trans as well.

[@jdub264]

Just bought a 2013 5.0 and hard shifts/clunks when it shifts into 2nd. Do you think the friction modifier will help? The trans fluid/lead frame was done a year ago (prior owner). Thanks!

[@GTurbski]

I think another fluid change and resetting the transmission adaptives would help for sure. What's the mileage?

[@jdub264]

@ 80k miles

[@jdub264]

@@GTurbski what's the best method for resetting the adaptives?

[@GTurbski]

@@jdub264 get yourself for scan and the associated OBD tool. It's called obdlink, you can get it for $60 on Amazon.

[@andrewbodey5025]

I noticed the XL16 additive is for the 2014 and newer 6r80 or the older 6r140, I have a 2011. Im wanting to add some when I change my fluid. Would you happen to know what years its applicable for?

[@GTurbski]

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work in any year 6R80. Keep in mind, the XL16 modifier is meant to be used with new clutch packs or new transmissions. I don't know how this impacts a worn out transmission (like in my case). If you don't have the squawk noise, I wouldn't use it. A good old fluid change will be just fine.

[@andrewbodey5025]

@@GTurbski I'll most likely just stick to new fluid, thanks for the response.

[@flyonawall6521]

Two Questions: 1) I noticed that when you installed the new transmission pan you left the filter sitting in the pan while installing it. I thought you needed to "insert" the filter first, then install the pan? At least that's what I've seen in multiple transmission videos on TY. (yes, I have no life) 7:44 2) Is 203 degrees normal operating temp for Fords? 18:45 Good video, truck sounded like it was shifting pretty good.

[@GTurbski]

Hey! Good eye. So normally yes, inserting the filter first would be ideal however, with this pan the way the filter hangs down it would get stuck on the drain plug in the pan. So what I ended up with was pushing the filter up positioned correctly in the pan and using the pan to seat filter in its home. This works just fine since the pan holds it in place anyways. And yeah, 203 is normal "high end" temperature for the trans. The instructions for checking hot have a range (192F - 201F).

[@Andres-dd4um]

Hello, I have a question: how many miles passed between the last transmission oil change and the one you just did?

[@GTurbski]

The last change was done at around 120k. I change at 170k. So approximately 50k miles.

[@Andres-dd4um]

thank you. And since 0 miles and 120k did you have any transmission oil changes?​@@GTurbski

[@GTurbski]

@@Andres-dd4um I didn't own the truck at that point. Going off of the documentation I was given, no fluid changes between 0 and 120k. I would've added one more in there had I owned it, though.