Ford 9N 2N Steering Rebuilding Drivetrain & Hydraulic Restoration PART 3

Replacing bushings and rope seals in the steering box

[@stevenroberts9380]

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I learned some important things, and very much appreciate it. Thanks again, Steve

[@Jason1Pa]

Thanks You Steven!! Glad you got something out of them.

[@melvinfranklin2441]

Starting a Ford 9N project, my father left it to me in 2007 and has been setting in a field since 2009. Lots of work ahead.

[@Jason1Pa]

Good luck on your project!! Sitting outside that long will bring its own sets of challenges but will be worth the effort to save it.

[@terrancefitzgerald3942]

I just bought all the parts & will be rebuilding my 9N steering system using your video. Thank you!!!!!

[@Jason1Pa]

Awesome!! Good luck. If you need help give me a shout

[@stangunderson5403]

Thanks for the reply Jason -- Great to see young hands on talent , skilled people with common sense are far & few between these days.

[@mattferguson2621]

I have restored a 2n and have started a tea 20 today. I wish I knew as much as you, but being able to watch is the next best thing. the 2n, I paid for a professional mechanic to do, but after watching your vids fills me with a confidence that I could have a go. you have done such a great job in the quality of the video and clarity in your explanations that even I can follow. I tell you what who needs tv when there's excellent vids like this to watch. thanks again.

[@Jason1Pa]

Matt Haby I am glad you found the videos helpful. Never be affraid to dig in and try something. When I was younger I was always affraid to hurt something but thats how you learn..

[@raedeansoito6921]

Matt ferguson 0owwd

[@jefferymeader8530]

Line the wheel up and see if you can adjust the tie rod ends to straighten the tires Good job explaining Re assuming 25:39 25:39

[@richardchernak1073]

Hi. I have been enjoying watching your videos and have been learning a lot. I had a similar problem with the steering wheel on my 1940 9n. The spoke was off by 1 hour on the clock. It drove me nuts! I was able to take it up by adjusting the tie rods. Now, it is all nice and straight.

[@nixonenoch7432]

instablaster

[@frederickjeremy]

I came down here to say exactly that. Shorten the right hand rod and lengthen the left rod equally and should just clock the steering wheel a bit counterclockwise

[@sandwon]

Great Video. I am putting mine back together and this helped. 👍

[@Jason1Pa]

Awesome glad it could help

[@willcarter8268]

Awesome video you are the best!

[@Jason1Pa]

Will Carter Thanks!!

[@Fordfarmer9700]

Lookin real good! Its coming along great! Thats a pretty cool steering box design. I've never seen a steering box thats been lubed by the gear box oil. I've only done the mechanical/hydraulic steering on the 5610 and that is a huge pain because its a left handed worm gear supported by 28 free floating ball bearings. Great video!

[@Jason1Pa]

Ford Farmer Thanks Ford Farmer! ! Yes the 9N and 2N are the only ones that get lubricated. The newer 8N is sealed. I personally like this style better not only cause of the good lubrication but I feel it is a little stronger made. Yes when you get into the newer designed stuff it is great to drive but not fun to work on!

[@jdison1986]

GREAT video!

[@Jason1Pa]

jdison1986 Thank You!!

[@GuntersGarage]

That was great! Im rite there with you on the steering wheel being centered. Im querky about things like that myself sometimes, lol.

[@terryhiggins9700]

Fantastic job lad. 9n and 2n steering box is way better than the early 8n steering box. You should have soaked the rope seals in oil. As per the manual (rope seals in the engine). When dry, they can act like a grinding paste and cause wear to the shaft. Great video and videos either way.

[@bradleyryan2364]

Big Fan! Thank you!

[@Jason1Pa]

Bradley Ryan Glad you enjoyed it!! Thanks for watching it.

[@joelsmith7896]

Nice video my old 2n has needed a steering box rebuild for a long time but I was too intimidated to tear into it but after watching your video it looks very simple and straightforward. thanks

[@Jason1Pa]

Only thing that is difficult is getting it timed if you do not mark it before hand. Like I said in the video there is a way the manual explains to get it timed but I feel my way is easier

[@joelsmith7896]

My steering is pretty much shot the gears sometimes skip. Where is a good place to buy all of the parts for this? I will probably need everything the gears, the bearings, and seals.

[@Jason1Pa]

@@joelsmith7896 If I ever need parts for Fords I only ever deal with Dennis Carpenter or Just8ns.com

[@joelsmith7896]

I have all my parts ordered and am ready to tackle this project. I have one question though. How does the gear assembly get lubricated? I know you said it gets lubricated by the oil in the trans but how does it get to the steering gears and the bushings? is the a pump for this? and is oil pumped through passageways to where its needed? and when I have this tore apart is there anything I should check to make sure that everything is getting lubricated properly?

[@Jason1Pa]

@@joelsmith7896 When you turn to the left or right the steering gear kind of drops down into the transmission a little getting oil splashed on them. The oil then kind of works around to every place it needs to go. No pumps or nothing. There is a hole near where the rope seals go make sure the holes are clean and open so oil can get threw. You could put a film of grease on the bushings to help lubricate things until the oil will eventually get there. You can also put grease on you roller bearings.

[@frederickjeremy]

Thank you for this series. Im fairly mechanically inclined but im just enjoying you tinkering with these old tractors while i am currently detained at work trying to repay my debt to socie… uuuuh creditors. Anywho I believe if that off center steering wheel is still driving you nuts it can be adjusted out by shortening your right hand tie rod and lengthening the left the same amount as viewed from the seat of the tractor.

[@Jason1Pa]

That would straighten the wheel,but your steering radius would be effected. One direction would be get cut shorter. Plus there probably wouldn't be enough threads/length to the tie rod to screw out that far. And the side that needs to go in /shorter wouldn't screw in that short. After the video was made I discovered that the brand new steering wheel is the problem. The keyway slot is in a different spot then an original one. I put the original wheel on and it is perfect. I could cut a new keyway slot BUT it would be right where the one spoke in the wheel is. Cutting a new keyway there would probably loosen the spoke up. Thanks for watching.

[@cpcoark]

First let me say thank you for posting this on the steering assembly. I'm in the process of repairing one right now. Your video confirmed how I was planning to go about it and provided some new ideas. Unlike yours, mine has been worked on and doesn't have the original correct timing for marking the gear. As to clocking the steering wheel, you may have to align a different spoke for "proper" orientation. For example, instead of having the key in the 4:00 position you may need it at 11:00

[@Jason1Pa]

ww_big_al Glad you found the video helpful. After this video I discovered that the new wheel is the reason. The key way is in a different location. Your idea would make the wheel straight however the proper turning radius would not be achieved. I will just keep my eye out for another wheel sometime.

[@cpcoark]

Jason1Pa I wasn't referring to the arms. I was referring to the pinion. The pinion can be rotated to 6 different positions Only affecting the steering wheel. Not the gear timing. Started to reassemble mine. Again thanks for the help.

[@Jason1Pa]

ww_big_al Oh I tryed that. I mentioned that in the video. I rotated the pinion one tooth to the left. It is still too much of a jump. Instead of being at 1:00 it was now at 11:00 only with one tooth difference. Its really no big deal to me but if I can find another good original wheel it would be fixed in a few secounds.

[@Dustdevilbillybob]

If you play around with the threaded ends of the tie rods, adjusting them in and out on both sides, you should be able to fine tune that steering wheel position. It would bug the crap out of me, just as it does you, and hopefully there is enough thread engagement to make up the difference to get that centered. Nice videos, and it's a good tutorial on rebuilding the driveline in one of these tractors.

[@Jason1Pa]

ww_big_al Your idea would work if there were enough thread on the tie rod ends however the steering would not turn the full way on yhe right hand side. After video was posted I found the original wheel and compaired the new one. The new one has the keyway in a different spot. I will probably have the original one restored

[@jerryf609]

Thanks Jason.

[@Jason1Pa]

jerryf609 No problem!! Thanks for watching!

[@stangunderson5403]

Great video -- did you try centering your steering wheel , tie it off then put your wheels straight individually with the tie rod adjustment ? Stan

[@Jason1Pa]

Stan Gunderson Yes that would work some what however There isn't enough tread on the tie rod ends. Plus it would loose some turning radious. The problem was discovered that the keyway in the new wheel is cut in the wrong location compaired to the original one.

[@BigBoxDodge2020]

I haven't had to do this job yet.But I knew that the rope seals should have been soaked in oil before installation.

[@Jason1Pa]

Soaking the seals is a preference. If you look into it there are many that do and many that don't. There are even different kinds of rope seals that do and don't recommend soaking. In all honesty if you soak on of them then wipe if off and cut it in half you will see that the oil doesn't even penatrate through to the center only the very outer part. This particular tractor is still going strong and leak free by installing them dry,putting some oil/grease/assembly lube to prevent chafing and has lasted many years now. Thanks for watching

[@BigBoxDodge2020]

@@Jason1Pa Thanks for the info.

[@arnolddavitt5204]

I’m just trying to say that would be the simplest move, probably to make take the steering wheel off one of the tractors you’ve already got, and see if it’s in the same slot

[@Jason1Pa]

That's what I did.

[@arnolddavitt5204]

I would say, not so much your shaft is off it might be your steering wheel. The key slot might be off. You can always check with another steering wheel or make a new new key slot in your steering wheel to line it up. My name is Arnold.

[@Jason1Pa]

Arnold you are right. Compared to the original wheel the new steering wheel had its key in the wrong spot. I wouldn't be able to cut a new slot in the new wheel because it needs to go right where they have the one spoke. I'm afraid it would become lose. Thanks for watching

[@lloydbarkes2138]

To Center your steering wheel you need an offset key they use them on Briggs & Stuff to change timing on the flywheel I'm sure you can find a key that will fit the steering wheel doesn't offset

[@Jason1Pa]

After the video I compared the old wheel with the new wheel. The old wheel was perfect and lined up. The new one wasn't. The keyway in the new wheel is not in the same spot. I could cut a new keyway but it would be right where the one spoke it at. I'm sure cutting a key way there would loosen up the spoke. I'll just look for another wheel someday. Thanks for watching

[@dennisgarl5247]

tie rod ends will adj to center the wheel ?

[@Jason1Pa]

No the tie rods will adjust the wheels but not the steering wheel. I figured the problem out after I did the video. The issue was the new reproduction steering wheel had the key way slightly in another position compared to the original wheel.

[@Tradesman1156]

Can't you adjust the wheel to center with the tie rod ends?

[@Jason1Pa]

Yes you'd get the wheel centered but your steering radius would greatly suffer when turning to one side. After the video I found that the keyway in the wheel was not in the same location as the original wheel. That's why it is off center. If I put the old wheel back on it is perfect.

[@TheSmalljob]

I know this is an old video but I very much enjoyed it. Great detail. I am working on a 1941 9N that I acquired last fall not running for more than 10 years. Just finished rebuilding the engine and front end and working my way back. The steering was stiff even with the tie rods disconnected so I opened up my steering box and will order new bearing etc. You video really helped. But here is my question: I noticed that under the steering sectors that area was all dry ( remember has not run in years) and I read that the lubrication for these sectors gears is splash. The transmission fluid is so low in the transmission even when full, How does it splash all the way up there, at least to a degree that all these seals and gaskets are needed? My vision of splash is like in an engine where a dipper on a connecting rod flips the oil around as it moves through the sump. Am I missing something?

[@Jason1Pa]

The sector gears (when turning) drop down into the transmission housing a good bit. And even at a slower speed the transmission gears stir up the oil and splash on the sector gears more then one may think.

[@TheSmalljob]

@@Jason1Pa just seems incredible. That transmission dip stick full line must be 10-12 inches below the sector gears. Thanks for your reply.

[@Jason1Pa]

@@TheSmalljob True the level of the oil is that low however The gears on the main shaft dip down into that oil that's 10 to 12 inches below and bring the oil up several more inches then fling it on to the steering components especially when you are making a turn.

[@McCuneWindandSolar]

You was talking about the gear. Look were that key way is on the shaft with relation to the steering wheel, and with respect to the spokes on the steering wheel. Maybe the shaft needs turned 180 or so

[@Jason1Pa]

After I posted the video I found the problem. I found the old original wheel and put it on and it's perfect. Looking at the new one and comparing with the old one the keyway of the new wheel is in the wrong spot. I thought about cutting a new keyway into the new wheel but it would go right where one of the spokes go. I'm afraid if I cut where that one spoke is it would become loose. So my options are to either deal with it or find another wheel. Thanks for watching!

[@McCuneWindandSolar]

@@Jason1Pa OK That's good to know. I do love watching your videos I have an old ford I need restored, but she is still going strong for as old as she is. for a 77 year old tractor I'm surprised of all I have gotten down with it.

[@Jason1Pa]

@@McCuneWindandSolar Yeah they really are amazing. This particular tractor was bought by my grandfather. It was used and about 6 years old at the time. It was used pretty hard for years and never really had anything major rebuilt on it until I did the videos.

[@ronk762762]

Great video, helping me out alot. I have a 1943 2n. I just mounted the right side drum and break assemble to the tractor and like you i was going to do the left side next and shim accordingly but i noticed what i think is a big problem. Lol. The break drum on the right side has play in and out, when i spin it when its in it rubs on something inside, but when i hold it out it spins smoothly. The slop is 3/16 to 1/4 inch. Any idea? Thanks again for you great videos!!

[@Jason1Pa]

Ron Kensky Hmmm?? Only thing I can think of is there is so much wear on the end of the axle shaft (where the two axles meet in the center of the differential) that the axle/brake drum are making the contact with the bearing retainer.

[@ronk762762]

Jason1Pa would the break drum hub have play in and out without the other side installed? i have not installed the left side yet, i got scared and need to do more research first. Thanks for your quick reply

[@Jason1Pa]

Ron Kensky Oh ok. If the other side is not installed you may get some play in it if there wouldn't be the correct number of shims. So go ahead and try it before you panic. When you look at the end of the axle what are there condission? Are they smooth or rough? There should be a machined groove in them. Is it still visible?

[@ronk762762]

Jason1Pa i just checked and yes there is a machined slot in the end the shaft, i just got nervous about both shafts not touching in the center and with the slop i figured there was a problem. I will bolt up the other side tomorrow and see if that helps. Thanks

[@Jason1Pa]

Ron Kensky No problem! Good luck

[@averyd00]

Use your tie rods to straighten your steering wheel.

[@Jason1Pa]

The issue has been taken care of long ago. It ended up being that the new steering wheel had the key way in another location compared to the old one. If I would adjusted the tie rods you would not have the same turning radius on each side.

[@stevemanis8667]

What if ur steering shaft don't stay n it comes out and have no steerin

[@Jason1Pa]

The bottom bearing has completely fell a part.

[@TheWolverine-rm2kr]

Where did u get all these parts

[@Jason1Pa]

All my Ford videos have parts from either Just8ns.com or Dennis Carpenter. These two are the only ones I deal with for Ford parts.

[@shouldibehere]

To the left of the shift lever (drivers side) there is a large plug that looks like a drain plug. What is that used for? My 9N has that and when I remove it I can see oil down low. Is that area supposed to be full of oil?

[@Jason1Pa]

That is where you add your transmission oil. You don't want that full up to the top. That would be like 3 times too much oil. Oil level should be seen on the dipstick on the right hand side of the rear-end. Check level when hydraulic lift arms are in the upright position and tractor sitting on level ground.

[@shouldibehere]

@@Jason1Pa thank you. That’s what I thought. Dipstick shows almost full. I’ll keep an eye on it now that I know where to fill it. Watching part 5 now. Looks like 80 or 90W oil can be used in place of mineral oil. I’m amazed at how tough these tractors are. Appreciate the reply.

[@Jason1Pa]

@shouldibehere I prefer 80W-90 if you going to be in colder Temps. If your not Straight 90W is what I use too however it seems most places are not carrying 90W anymore so it's kind of hard to find. You can use a few other oils like Hytran ,but I prefer not too BUT that is just my opinion.

[@shouldibehere]

@@Jason1Pa I happen to have several qts of 80W-90. I checked yesterday and it only needed about 4 oz. To bring it up to full.

[@Jason1Pa]

@@shouldibehere what you can do too is take the bottom bolt out of the circular plate that has the dipstick and use that as a "full" mark. You can actually run the level a little low just as long as the pistons in the pump are submerged. Running a little low also helps with leaking axle seals.

[@frankdeegan8974]

It also might be the steering wheel center was not made exactly right. try a different steering wheel, or cut the center out and refit it. I know it sounds crazy but what the heck

[@Jason1Pa]

Frank Deegan That wheel is new. I put it on a few years ago. I can't remember if the original one was centred or not. If I really wanted it centered Id have a machine shop cut a new key way in the shaft at the proper location.

[@frankdeegan8974]

Jason1Pa sounds like a plan

[@garymoore204]

Rekey steering wheel

[@Jason1Pa]

Gary Moore After closer inspection and compairing the new steering wheel to a original the spokes of the new one are at a different location from the key way. To rekey the new wheel the key way would go right where the spoke is. Id be affraid the spoke may become loose after that. I will just keep my eyes open for a straight original wheel even if I need to have it refurbish.

[@alvachellman2740]

Gary Moore 6