Ford C6 Rebuild, Pt 1: Overview and Sub Assemblies (Read Description)

[@terrytate6006]

Where was this video 10 years ago when I rebuilt my C6 in my garage thanks for this video

[@nickstransmissions]

Hey Terry - please subscribe and stay tuned as my next video series will focus on building flux capacitors and using them to turn any vehicle into a time machine, haha😎 Thank you for watching!

[@anonone8954]

Hands down one of the best C6 rebuild tutorials that I've seen. Thank you and great job 👍.

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks again, man!

[@anonone8954]

@mytransmissions5390 no..thank you. I'm 62 years old and I've always wanted to rebuild an automatic transmission and you have given me the confidence that I can successfully accomplish this. I'm a mechanic or auto technician as they like to call us during employment. I've watched a few other videos that rebuilders have put out, but yours was the best that I have seen. I'll be watching your other videos and recommending them to others.

[@nickstransmissions]

I really appreciate the feedback, Anon One. Feel free to make suggestions and I'll see what I can do to accommodate.

[@anonone8954]

@mytransmissions5390 if something comes to mind, I'll surely mention it. I'm telling everyone that I know that is interested in these subjects about your channel. I've certainly enjoyed it.

[@joshuadeats6768]

Learned a lot from this super easy to follow and well explained !

[@kevinclancy.]

Nick I discovered yet another interesting failure of my 1989 Ford Bronco C6- the bushing for the rear of the input shaft that presses into the stator support was actually seized on the input shaft. A little heat and it knocked off.

[@craphittingthefan2360]

Thanks for the help Nick, I was able to rebuild my drag race transmission, I found a 4 clutch drum from a lincoln and drilled some drain holes in it, it has a 3500 stall converter and trans brake it works great on the back roads can't wait to hit the track with it.

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, @craphittingthefan2360 - Glad you got it done and it's working well! 🍻

[@TheProchargedmopar]

Perfect timing. I'm about to dig into a 73 model C6 out of a F100. Only upgrade I plan will be the roller bearings. Trans has worked great for over 25yrs since last rebuild so I'll be going back with whatever is in there now. Only trouble it was giving is slow to go into drive on first start up. Thanks for these vids 👍💪

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, Prochargedmopar - good luck with your build!

[@larry-ev5sw]

nick !, good to talk with you........ i WILL follow these videos to complete my rebuild......looking forward to it !!

[@nickstransmissions]

Likewise, Larry!

[@leonardopoma162]

Hello there, first of all absolute PERFECTION of a video, I recently got my C6 rebuilt and whenever I take my car out for a drive, the first 10-15km (when trans fluid is cold) all operations are perfect. But once the tranny starts to warm up and gets up to temperature, 3rd gear has a very hesitant/delayed engagement. Like when it's warming up (not cold but not at operating temps) the only way I have to engage 3rd is to let go of the throttle completely, as soon as I give her a little gas, downshifts back into 2nd. When the tranny is at operating temperatures, it does engage 3rd but in a very hesitant way, like it takes a good 5 seconds from the disengagement (is this even a word?) of 2nd gear to fully engage 3rd. Also, only when the tranny is at operating temperatures, when I put it in reverse I hear a "double clunk" instead of the usual single one, other than that reverse works fine Any idea about the causes of this? I thought maybe about pinched seals in the direct drum, but I'm at a loss for ideas right now

[@leonardopoma162]

Also I played around with the vacuum modulator but didn't make much of a difference if any

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you Leonardo! If it hesitates to grab gears and/or shifts only when you let off the gas once it's warmed to operating temp, that tells me there's leaks in the direct clutch circuit. This is usually caused by pinched sealing rings on the pump's stator where the sealing ring is allowing fluid to "blow by" the sealing rings and leak into the case instead of remaining in the 3rd gear hydraulic clutch circuit to fully apply/compress the direct clutch piston inside the direct drum. Consequently, there's not enough pressure to keep the clutch pack fully compressed hence your delayed engagement into third gear. Eventually, your direct clutch will burn up. Unfortunately, it's not a governor, valve body or modulator problem...Transmission will need to come back out and the sealing rings on the pump replaced as well as the direct clutch apply piston lip seals inspected (and replaced if needed) as they may also be at fault. Though when a lip seal is torn, typically you have a "neutral" condition in that gear, not a delayed upshift. With new sealing rings and if necessary, lip seals, it should be good to go once back in the vehicle, assuming nothing else gets messed up during the corrective work.

[@leonardopoma162]

@@nickstransmissions that is the most professional answer I got, many thanks and perfect work again with your videos, I'll check your other videos too! Pinched/broken sealing rings or seals in the direct drum circuit is what causes reverse to "double clunk" I imagine, because the low/reverse clutches engage fine (first clunk) and then comes the delayed high/reverse clutches (second clunk) due to those bad seals, if I'm getting things right

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks again, Leonardo...please subscribe if you haven't already. I agree, the double clunk is the result of the two reverse elements applying out-of-time with respect to each other.

[@leonardopoma162]

@@nickstransmissions Will sure do!

[@Gerald-p4i]

Thank you for responding Nick! Keep up the good work!

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you for the kind words, Gerald - and you're welcome!

[@kevinclancy.]

post mortem on my 1989 Bronco C6: the selective spacer (made of plastic) was smashed up and the mashed and broken pieces were laying on top of the valve body when I dropped it out upon disassembly, then when I got to the forward drum, the spring seat was half- poking out in front of the bevel washer and bent, then of course the forward drum piston groove where the spring seat lays was all torn up, then I found half of the retaining ring for forward drum ring gear laying inside the piston. very interesting

[@nickstransmissions]

Damn...interesting indeed...Thanks for following up, Kevin! Hopefully you can get it back together and on the road soon.

[@devinhiggison1198]

going to start my rebuild soon, i think my truck was either a flood truck or was used hard and put away wet literally. have never fully rebuilt an engine or trans before, but have done some engine work, excited to learn more about this stuff

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks for watching, Devin! These transmissions aren't difficult to rebuild so that makes them a perfect learning platform for someone just starting out.

[@0lddragracer426]

Thanks for this great video on the C6. I really enjoyed it, and it'll help when I do my own.

[@nickstransmissions]

Glad it was helpful!

[@cnhz01]

Hi Nick. I removed my truck engine and I know there is transmission fluid leaking from inside the transmission (C6) as it forms a puddle in front of the torque converter on the inside of the housing. I did let the transmission lower slowly and hang by itself without supporting it for a period of time, so maybe that caused some damage- or maybe not. My question is if I can remove the pump to replace its internal components without damaging/dislodging anything even though the transmission is still in the vehicle? Maybe also important to note is that the puddle seemed to form when the torque converter was attached no matter the position of the transmission (that is, even after iterations of raising and lowering it using a floor jack) but I took the torque converter out and it has since stopped, even though the transmission has been through the same range of motion. Also, the truck (which I bought recently) seems to have an overfilled transmission (the fluid level is way beyond the crosshatching present- we're talking 5 inches when cold) so maybe that could explain this? Leo

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Leo, thanks for watching. Since your engine is out and presumably being rebuilt, it's an opportuine time to do the same to the transmission. Remove, tear it down and inspect it. The rebuild it with quality parts, upgrading it as needed for your intended usage and engine power. Replace the torque converter with a reman or new. Select a stall speed that matches your engine's cam grind, power, etc...

[@0lddragracer426]

Excellent video. Well described, and thought out. I'm pretty sure I can do mine from watching this. Many thanks...I hope you can do a high-performance street version for the C6. 70 and newer.

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you, Michael! Appreciate the kind words...I will definitely film the next high performance C6 build that I receive into the shop.

[@jimmycenedella9469]

Thank-You so much for your superior filming !, One thing I would like to do is rollerize JUST for high gear, low, and 2nd. do not matter to me, Just hi gear.......what and where should I rollerize ??? Thanks, Jimmy

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, Jimmy! On a C6, the best places to introduce roller/torrington bearings is the gear train (planetary carrier assemblies) however they have to be machined to accept the bearings. If you know a good machinist who specializes in transmission related machine work, he can do it for you so you can install the bearings in place of thrust washers. Otherwise John Wood and Broader Performance sell the machined planetaries with the bearings ready to install.

[@CarlKahler]

Than k you for the informitave Video Nothing better than an easy to follow instruction.

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, Carl and thank you for the kind words!

[@Beast62652]

Great video! Not sure if you are still replying to comments, but I have a question about those 10 return springs mentioned at 43:40. I just pulled my C6 apart and there appear to only be 9 springs. The previous mechanic really messed a number of things up so I was wondering if this is OK or if this is another one of his blunders. If I can get away with 9, is there a specific configuration I should place them in? Thanks for the great video!!

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, man - appreciate the feedback...See if you can find an extra spring either at the junk yard or your local transmission hard parts supplier. If not, install all of the springs you have then remove one more spring on the exact opposite side of the spring position that is missing the spring..This way it's symmetrical. It shouldn't be a problem assuming you're application is stock or at most, mild performance use.

[@Beast62652]

@@nickstransmissionsthanks for the tip. I managed to secure a set of 10, so I went with the original recommendation. One more question lol. Is there supposed to be a bearing in the front planet where the gear on the sun shell meets the planet? I see you said no thrust washer, but a second hand planet I bought has a Torrington style bearing in the center of the planet. I don’t see it on any diagrams or anything. With it I feel my sun shell sits to high up, but im not sure.

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome...I'd have to look at a diagram or the ATSG manual as it's been a while since I did a late model C6 but IIRC the 1988 model year (last year for the C6) may have had torrington bearings on one or both planets...Will see what I can find out and reply back later or tomorrow, if you still need the info.

[@maxs.5905]

Great video. I was going to buy a book but I think this video says it all. Good job ! Thanks

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks and you're welcome, Max!

[@DustyAitken]

Nick, I rebuilt my c6 today, and installed. Was reviewing your video and saw that you installed an extra thrust washer on the front planet, then saw the description. I followed step for step and now have an extra washer on it. What should/ can I expect to happen? All checks and measurements lined up with your min/ max. Thank you.

[@nickstransmissions]

Shouldnt hurt anything. That one has been on the road driven mostly daily or at least 3x per week as far as I know and no complaints. You can pull it out if you want but if you're unable to due to time constraints, I wouldnt sweat it. If it comes back to me for any reason ill do a follow up vid on what i find.

[@larry-ev5sw]

Will be finishing up next week

[@rockwoodapiaries-andrewboo2005]

Great video! I'm getting ready to rebuild my C6 for my mustang with a 390. Quick question, what do you call the really thin handled tool you use to set the lip seal when installing the piston? Thanks!!

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, Andrew! Contact Whatever It Takes (WIT) Performance - they will sell you lip seal installation tools like the one you're inquiring about. If they won't sell directly, they will have their tools on eBay for purchase.

[@michaelmongillo1237]

I have a C6 for a 7.3 with a "gear vendor" splitter behind it. Its all going in a rat rod truck. My question is.... Who can rebuilt this transmission with all the appropriate up grades. And, what would those upgrades be.?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Michael, thank you for watching. Sounds like a sweet ride...Anyone who's knowledgeable about the C6 can install all the requisite part and perform the procedures required for your vehicle's application, needs and intended usage pattern. If you're located in the desert southwest, I may be an option for you. Otherwise, check with transmission builders in your local area. Alternatively you can look at ATS, BTS or other popular nationwide companies that specialize in performance transmissions, they should be able to help you out.

[@michaelmongillo1237]

Having a hard time finding someone I can trust. I'm in Kingman Arizona

[@nickstransmissions]

Please shoot me a direct message on gmt400.com. My user name is NickTransmissions.

[@TrevarBerry]

Can you provide a parts list or a link to a rebuild kit you'd recommend? I know you mentioned the sky is the limit but I just wanna build it to handle a mild 302. I'm not looking for crazy.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Trevar, thank you for watching..I'll be setting up some arrangements with suppliers to provide a portal or 'influencer page' where folks can buy parts, kits, supplies and tools but for now I'd check out the 'Deluxe Rebuild kits' on eBay as they usually have most, if not all, the soft parts you will need to overhaul the unit. I often buy them there...Here's an example for a 76+ C6: www.ebay.com/itm/223282081633?itmmeta=01HX853K0BXYR0PBFKZXKY2964&hash=item33fca62f61:g:3LIAAOSw9GhYcEAV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4FeNuElq4igWmo18p6qCwCMsckDL%2BqumhsWHDg0Eq%2FCiCgaf9Lt%2FBS8WZu28kTo7wFnfe0w%2FbQ6JNP7JYQoNOa696%2B0rBoUP%2B%2BuJCQcpj%2FeqXAZ1U2v4F9bmmT6v%2F1Xx0cNc2kUpozPsrsi7oPX%2FGnz%2BOmwOFQUiyXjwm3gvuDbjDa%2BxIOJBXxZPChYlJzvndAM6GHdEpi8Zp%2Fn47uUiHeK5g7WRJriV%2BS9eOjELujzia9itDsoThW4N0rJG%2Bt0ib%2BGTbh0Fi%2BDVGw9ewJ5d5U%2BVahReDqoYqmqU2qMbirD7%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR66wjoXqYw

[@TrevarBerry]

@nickstransmissions Wow awesome thank you! I have this issue that the output shaft spins through all gears but won't spin the opposite direction in reverse or neutral so I figured I'd just rebuild the unit and call it good. Thank you!

[@jan_21]

Hey Nick, i've been restoring my first C6 transmission for Ford F100 (FE 360), that weird version with fixed yoke, everything went well, but when we closed it with extension housing, and torqued the yoke, it looks like the bearing (and output shaft obviously too) have too much end play in the housing, for me it's something around 0.045-0.060in (i didn't precisely measure it yet). Bearing is new, old was really worn out, but the dimmensions are identical. Snap ring looks good. Do you think this is a problem or everything is as it should be?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Jan, thank you for watching...Did you have the case fully assembled and pump installed when you hand-checked the output shaft play? A little bit of movement is normal but it shouldn't be significant...Generally speaking, you install the entire rear section of the transmission, including the extension housing prior to installing the drums, front band and pump then you do a travel check of drums and pump using a dial indicator mounted with the plunger on the input shaft. I believe the spec is .008-.0040 thou which applies to all C6 variants.

[@jan_21]

@nickstransmissions Yes, the case was fully assembled. The rear section was installed first (but without extension housing), then i put the drums, installed the band and closed it up with pump. The input shaft endplay was within range. Then i taken out the output shaft, pressed the bearing on it, and put all of it inside extension housing, securing it with snap ring. After installing the extension housing, and torquing the yoke, we found out that movement. For me the snap ring securing the bearing is too narrow what is causing this movement, but in parts catalogue there is nothing about different widths...

[@nickstransmissions]

Did you install the extension housing for the final time before checking input shaft end play? If not, that's the correct way to do it...Also, double check to make sure you have the correct shaft snap rings in the correct locations...IIRC they are different thicknesses.

[@Gridlock71]

Thank you thank you!!!!! Best videos on C6 that I have found. Was wondering where you buy your parts???

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, Gridlock! Appreciate the kind words...I usually buy them at my local hard parts supplier on eBay....Here's an example of a 'Deluxe' kit featuring Alto High Energy clutches: www.ebay.com/itm/223282081633?itmmeta=01HX853K0BXYR0PBFKZXKY2964&hash=item33fca62f61:g:3LIAAOSw9GhYcEAV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4FeNuElq4igWmo18p6qCwCMsckDL%2BqumhsWHDg0Eq%2FCiCgaf9Lt%2FBS8WZu28kTo7wFnfe0w%2FbQ6JNP7JYQoNOa696%2B0rBoUP%2B%2BuJCQcpj%2FeqXAZ1U2v4F9bmmT6v%2F1Xx0cNc2kUpozPsrsi7oPX%2FGnz%2BOmwOFQUiyXjwm3gvuDbjDa%2BxIOJBXxZPChYlJzvndAM6GHdEpi8Zp%2Fn47uUiHeK5g7WRJriV%2BS9eOjELujzia9itDsoThW4N0rJG%2Bt0ib%2BGTbh0Fi%2BDVGw9ewJ5d5U%2BVahReDqoYqmqU2qMbirD7%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR66wjoXqYw

[@larry-ev5sw]

Nick my good man.... I got the new reverse drum in I can't get the circlip in with 5/5 steels and 5 clutch disks.... It will work with 4 steels & 4 clutch disks. Please give me your opinion ......

[@larry-ev5sw]

With 4 instead of 5 the circlip will fit. What do you think

[@nickstransmissions]

Hey Larry, were you able to figure out the situation w/your drum?

[@jonathanhenderson8403]

I exchanged my band for a wide band. Is this gonna be okay to run on an “N” servo? The application is a 1979 ford e150 econoline that’s never ran. I don’t know how it drives, but I’m certainly not taking it to the drags…

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Jonathan, it should be fine but if you plan on hauling any half-way heavy loads, I'd prob upgrade the servo assembly....you don't need to make that decision now, just see how things go w/the N servo and go from there.

[@jonathanhenderson8403]

@@nickstransmissions Thanks man! On a side note, you should be getting paid by precision international overhaul kits! They don’t come w labels for the seals, and when you google precision overhaul instructions, your vids just pop up.

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, man! And yes, wish they would send me my earnings, haha!

[@JefforeySiegel]

Hello I have a 1986 f250 4x4 6.9idi c6. The c6 takes alot of acceleration then let up easy it will shift(3rd gear). Alot of miles time to rebuild. Want no more worries or issues. Being a diesel where can I get the parts to rebuild it. Are there complete kits to rebuild it? Any help greatly appreciated! This will be my first c6 build

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Jefforey, thanks for watching...Any transmission parts supplier, either local brick and mortar or on-line should be able to sell you the parts...They're no different than a gas engine version, soft parts-wise.

[@JefforeySiegel]

@@nickstransmissions thank you. I'm watching videos,bought manuals specifically for c6 rebuild. I'm now gathering up all info I can and looking at online parts kits. I do alot of heavy healing in 4x4 as I have a farm. Is there any upgrades to help. I don't drive fast average 55mph is the fastest I go once a year I drive to fairbanks alaska

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, Jefforey...check out my C6 build strategy video for heavy duty applications - I give a run down of all the parts I typically use in such builds that will see towing, hauling, off-road and other working type use. Link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGHRqIqrfrWsmqM Please subscribe, if you haven't already as I will be doing more Ford C6 videos in the near future. Hit the 'bell' icon so you can be notified when I put them on the channel.

[@kevinclancy.]

I did a search of your videos, but didn't find one that covers how you get your parts so impeccably clean. is there a certain solvent or method you use to clean all the different parts? I do have a parts washer with Kerosene in it, but wanted to pick your brain on your method for cleaning transmission parts, thanks.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hey Kevin, you'll laugh at this one but I actually soak all my small parts and bolts in used brake cleaner...When I wash those small parts, I spray them down in break cleaner while they are in a bucket or old transmission plan...Once the parts are clean and on the assembly bench, I pour the residual fluid into bottles which I then re-use to soak the next batch of bolts...Hot tank and pressure washer is used on the case and big stuff (except planetary carrier assemblies - I just thoroughly wipe them down). I may do a video on this as every once in a while I get questions about parts cleaning and prep.

[@kevinclancy.]

thank you very much!@@nickstransmissions

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, Kevin!

[@kevinclancy.]

I am struggling with cleaning out the old seal inside my 1989 Ford Bronco C6 direct drum- the inner seal for the piston. it is like concrete! what is your method for cleaning out that old seal? I do have a dental pic, but it is barely budging it. do you ever use direct heat? i was afraid of warping something. UPDATE: I ended up using the ATF-soaked rags I had from draining the valve body, and packed them up against the old seal inside the direct drum and squished out the fluid, to try and infuse/saturate the old seal - I think it worked! the next day I went in there with my dental pic and it started coming out for me nicely in one piece

[@nickstransmissions]

Your method is what a lot of folks use and it works...I'll use a small amount of heat w/a propane torch along with picks on the occasions where that seal is hardened though many times it will just break and ill fish the pieces out w/a pick.

[@kevinclancy.]

awesome thanks again for your input Nick! I am having a blast watching your videos and putting it back together @@nickstransmissions

[@stingray6164]

i don't know if you have ever built a CVT transmission but if not and 1 rolls up to the shop run run fast

[@nickstransmissions]

Yup. I get calls on those from time to time but refer them to reman companies. My bread and butter is what you see on the channel...GM, Ford and Dodge rear wheel drive. Occasionally take on a BMW/ZF or Toyota truck trans but it's rare.

[@kevinclancy.]

thanks for the great video. Question: what kind of fluid do you like in the C6? My 1989 Ford Bronco has the stock C6 and the dipstick says "Use Mercon" but I can only find Type F or Mercon V at Walmart. Is the Mercon V ok to use? I am about to embark on a complete rebuild so perhaps that affects the choice?

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you, Kevin. Type F (all other things equal) will produce slightly firmer shifts compared to DexIII (DexMerc). MerconV is the follow-on formulation to Mercon III and is fine f or use in anything calling for 'Mercon' Here's some more info put out by Motorcraft (Ford) on MercV: www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/chemicals-and-lubricants/transmission-fluid/mercon-v-automatic-transmission-and-power-steering-fluids.html

[@kevinclancy.]

thanks so much for the quick reply and for the great info, knowlege and helpful link@@nickstransmissions

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, Kevin and thank you for watching! Please subscribe if you haven't already so you'll be notified when I post more C6 videos (some are coming in the near future).

[@kevinclancy.]

Subscribed! these videos are fantastic@@nickstransmissions

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you, Kevin!

[@jackdaicole7595]

Is there a way to run a e4od? Without alot of headache to the old 6.9 idi diesels? A stand alone computer??? That would work with mechanical injection?

[@nickstransmissions]

Yes, you can run an E4OD as long as you also install a computer to control it. The E4OD is full electronic control so no means to run one mechanically, to my knowledge. Run a big, aluminum deep pan with plenty of extra capacity to aid in keeping temps down and if possible, have a custom low stall converter made as this will further reduce temps and increase low end pulling power for those heavier loads, esp in the summer months.

[@Gerald-p4i]

Nick, when you’re installing a transmission pan on the Ford C-6, how much bolt torque do you use?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Gerald, I use 130-140 inch lbs on all C6s...The manual calls for between 8-12 ft lbs so anywhere in that range is fine.

[@Gerald-p4i]

Thank you for your help take care

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome!

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

I finally got to work on my C6. Took it all apart, and aside from some worn thrust washers, a gasket leak and some gunk in the back, it looks very good. Can I ask a few things to gauge if I'm doing it correctly? 1. Today I worked on the front pump body. I measured the bushing depth and pulled it out. When I installed the new one, I noticed some tiny metal shavings scraping off from one of the sides. When the bushing was in place, one side sat about 0.2mm / 0.007 inch lower than the other. I didn't trust that and pulled it out to re-insert it. This time it installed flush with no shavings and also went in with less resistance. Is there any possibility that I may have compromised the bushing, or are they somewhat forgiving when they don't go in precisely square? Despite the shavings I didn't notice any markings on the outside of the bushing. 2. When I fit the body (without the stator) with the new bushing on the torque converter, I feel ever so slight uniform resistance when I turn it. Nothing stiff, and I can turn the body with no hassle, but it's not like I can give it a spin and that it would keep going. Should there be no resistance whatsoever, or is it ok to feel a tiny bit for a new bushing? 3. When installing the front pump seal, a tiny bit of excess rubber at the bottom from the seal moulding got caught and sheared off in between the housing and the metal seal ring. Would it be worth pulling the seal out again to make sure that no rubber is stuck in between the housing and seal, or is it unlikely that it would give any problems?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi John, Here are my responses: 1. Removing and reinstalling the same bushing once usually doesn't compromise it but if it felt notably easier to fit the second time around, I'd just install a new one. They're cheap and plus you can use some red Loctite on the second one to help keep it in place. Also, make sure it's orientated the correct way as pump body bushing in most Ford transmissions, including the C6, are directional. The open side of the oil groove should face inward, toward the pump cover. See 20:27 in Pt1 for reference if you haven't already. 2. You can attempt to re-test the body on the converter journal once you replace the bushing w/ a new one but keep in mind, the pump, once installed in the trans and trans bolted up to the engine, is not going to bottom out on the converter - there will be a small gap between converter base and front of the pump body. I would assemble the pump completely then check just to be sure. A hasty check w/the pump body itself doesn't hurt but it won't give you a complete verdict like a fully assembled pump will. I'll do it just as a quick check by sliding the pump down on the journal to about 1/4 above where the journal meets the converter body to be certain the bushing is ok before I move to install the seal but check again once the pump's assembled. 3. Install a new pump seal - carefully check the inner seal bore for any irregularities. If some are observed, put a thin layer of RTV/sealant on the inner diameter where any irregularities are and then install the seal.

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

@@nickstransmissions I got the new bushing and seal installed with no issues this time. Thanks for the recommendation! I've installed the rest of the bushings as well, and although most went in fine, I ran into some problems for which I want to ask some more questions if you don't mind. 1. Can you tell what brand your bushing puller is? I've been having a very difficult time getting the two bushings removed from the stator support. Every single bushing/bearing puller being sold has a tapered hook on its adapters whereas your adapters seem to have a 90 degree hook that can properly latch behind the bushing. No matter what I try, the tapered end causes the adapter to pull itself inside the bushing, tearing apart the bottom surface. I've hammered for hours with no movement whatsoever using different pullers, whereas you could remove these with little to no effort. 2. Because of my struggles with the puller, I tried removing them by punching them in with a screwdriver. This went fine on the tail end, but the front bore got scratched up from it. I want to post a picture, but youtube removed my last comment. Its imgur link is a/K7eaH6m If you can view the image, do you think this stator is still salvageable, or have I totalled it? When I tried pressing in the new bushing I felt the same resistance like I did with all the others. 3. With a few bushings it appears that the edge where the press dye sat on has collapsed ever so slightly inward. So even though they pressed in just fine, once I spun the axle within, it didn't feel right to me opposed to other bushings that spun more freely. I could also see immediate wear at the copper coating near the top edge from rubbing the axle. Have you ever had this happen, and do you know how I can best prevent this?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi John, you can use sandpaper (400 then 800 grit) to clearance the bushings if they fit a bit tight (very common on many of these older units as the factory bushings are long out of production and aftermarket bushings can sometimes be a bit too thick) or if there is a bit of a lip on the bushing. Unless you gouged out the equivalent of the Grand Canyon or Marianas trench in the stator bushing area, a little sandpaper or circular metal file should clean it up fine. You don't want any burrs sticking out that will press against the new bushing, bowing it inwards. The puller is a Kent Moore tool - J45548. I am not sure of the thread pitch but it resembles more of a fine pitch vs a coarse one so you'll need to match it with a slide hammer w/the correct pitch.

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

@@nickstransmissions Thank you so much for the information. Regarding the damage it seems that I only removed those microscopic ridges from the machining of the bore, so that is a huge relief. With sanding down the bushings to allow the clearance, assuming you mean the inside, wouldn't it be a problem if that copper layer was sanded away? And thanks a lot for sharing the tool. This definitely looks a lot more suitable.

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome and there's no problem with sanding bushings and there's no copper - it's all babbit material and there's more of it than it would seem at first glance. Sand w/400 or 600 grit until you can just about spin the input shaft freely and then stop and grab 800 or 1000 git to finish it off... ETA: Here's my TH400 bushing video that shows me clearance the bushings using sand paper. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYuwiJV8rNlsoNE

[@jackdaicole7595]

Questions I have a 1986 f250 4x4 diesel super cab 6.9 idi. Has a c6 want to rebuild is there any difference between gas and diesel c6 Trans? I use mine for heavy hauling in 4x4. I work off road carry tools and equipment with the truck. The rest is mostly hwy and one small town I stop for diesel fuel

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Jack, there's a few key differences between the Diesel and Gas versions of the C6, including: 1. Bell Housing bolt pattern - they are different and not interchangeable between the gas 351M/460 and 6.9/7.3 engines 2. Valve body - completely different shift calibration w/the diesel VB being set up for early, firm shifts 3. Governor - same, set up for earlier shifts 4. Servo/servo cover size - You should have an 'N' servo cover thus would replace with a new N servo piston 5. Direct drum - one more friction/steel compared to C6 transmissions for gas engines 6. Torque Converter - lowest stall offered on the C6; mounting studs are longer than converters intended for gas engines

[@larry-ev5sw]

nick, on the bellville spring ....... which one should one use when replacing it..... mine was shattered but did no damage .

[@nickstransmissions]

Larry, simply acquire new one that’s an identical to the broken one. Transmission parts suppliers should have them sitting on the shelf for about $3-$5 or so…

[@stevejohnson3853]

Ok I got all my parts for transstar today everything is cleaned still waiting thrust washers. I gambled with use pump and looks like used pump is good surface is good so gears should be good. BUT Question on New used pump body notice check ball spring looked rusty. Old pump looks spring is good. Can I swap them? If so not sure how to go about it. Notice dimpled spots on body holding cap in housing.. what should do am I screwed on New use housing. One more question I have s code servo,didn't come in kit. Before I order do YOU recommend any type that's maybe original ok.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Steve…The rust shouldn’t be a problem unless the spring is falling apart (you will have to use your judgment based on what you see). If you can get the springs out and they are the same (no reason to believe they wouldn’t be) then yes go ahead and swap. Ive never had to do that so can’t say how easy or difficult it is. Check your gears-pump body clearances on the replacement body to make sure they are within spec. Purchase an S servo bonded steel and rubber piston to go with your S cover (or upgrade to a billet servo assembly if the application is HD or high performance.

[@stevejohnson3853]

@@nickstransmissions ok thanks so much for responding. I will update you if i do replace it let you know I I did it. Thanks again

[@nickstransmissions]

@@stevejohnson3853 you’re welcome, steve.

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

Got a question about the clearances. On some websites as well as what you mention, the clearance is between .021 and .046. However, a 75-76 workshop manual that I have states that the FWD clutch clearance should be between .031 and .044. My transmission is from 77, and the clearance that I measured with a dial gauge is .030 if I press down a little on the clutches, and .026 if I don't press down on them. This seems in spec with what you and some forums mentioned, but just out of spec according to the book. Considering that the transmission is from 77, and my books are from 75-76, would the clearance still be ok?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi John, that clearance should be fine but if you're real concerned you can always have .008-.010 machined off the backing plate. How many clutch plates are in your forward drum?

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

@@nickstransmissions That's good to know! I got four plates in. Initially got four Raybestos frictions that were each 0.081 thick which caused the snap ring to bind with zero play. Unfortunately I couldn't find any selective snaprings thin enough on Ebay or in my country, so I ordered two Alto frictions of 0.061 to replace two of the Raybetos ones. Interestingly, I just tried measuring with a feeler gauge, and with that I measured 0.034 inches, which would be in spec in both cases. At 0.035 I'd have to force the gauge and At 0.037 I couldn't fit the gauge anymore. As always, thank you very much for your answers.

[@nickstransmissions]

Yep, that should work...put the Alto frictions as the top two in the drum then put the Raybestos frictions underneath. That will help keep the Alto's cool as it's always a little cooler toward the top and a bit warmer down by the piston. This is true of all drums, regardless of unit unless the drum has some designed cooling mechanism for its lower half.

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

​@@nickstransmissions Thanks for that tip! I was wondering if I should alternate them. I'll keep the thin ones on top then. Btw, the new steels that I got all have a tiny nook cut from one of the teeth. Do you know what that's for and if it needs any alignment?

[@nickstransmissions]

Some steels have little notches cut in them; direct clutch steels for 4L80Es come to mind...Whenever I have those, the OCD sometime kicks in and I align them all to the same lug in the drum but it's not critical. Main thing is ensuring nothing is hanging up or dragging when you go to air test the apply in the drum. That and clearance, which looks like you got figured out.

[@brokengames1100]

I recently pulled my pan on my c6 trans and i seem to have found a thrust washer I think its the one that goes on the pump assembly my question is would it be drivable still or would it cause a failure.

[@nickstransmissions]

If you found the pump - direct drum thrust washer, I would not drive it... That washer governs front end play (i.e. the amount of longitudinal movement of the drums/gear train against the pump so if it's missing, your gear sets may come out of mesh, destroying them. Remove it, and if you haven't done so at all recently, I'd just rebuild it while it's out so you know it's good to go for a long time. Thank you for watching, brokengames!

[@fomoco173]

Question, I noticed you didn't soak your clutches prior to installing them, just curious why?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Fomoco, great question...In case you haven't seen it yet, I shot a video to explain why I don't do it along with my arguments against soaking before installation. Here's the vid: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJuZiYx5l9F6a6s

[@fomoco173]

@@nickstransmissions fair enough, I can understand your thought process, thanks for the explanation.

[@jimlauth7587]

I cannot find the tool you used to install the pump seal around the pump. It looks like a artist paint knife. Is there a tool for this? Thanks

[@nickstransmissions]

I used a bushing driver for the front seal on the pump body. Perhaps you’re referring to the lip seal installation tool? That’s the only thing i can think of that’s knife-like in the video. If so, you can get those on Amazon or eBay for a few buck. If that’s not what you’re referring to, let me know the time stamp you see the tool and ill take a look.

[@jimlauth7587]

@My Transmissions yes, it's the knife like in the video. I've searched everywhere but can't find the name for that tool. That tool is also shown in the C6 overhaul book but with a yellow handle. They call it a lip seal tool but that doesn't get any results that resemble the pics in the book or your video. Thank you for being so patient.

[@nickstransmissions]

Reach out to “wittrans” on ebay. They should have some available.

[@jimlauth7587]

@@nickstransmissions thank you

[@stevejohnson3853]

I'm assembling my C6 transmission finally but I'm finding out I have a in play problem. Referred back to my overhaul manual and it shows No thrust washer between planetary and sunshell looks like the sunshell gear rides right on needle bearing on that side. I looked at my old son shell notice there was no marks from the thrust washer would have made turning in Sun shell shows one thrust washer on one side which is a selective washer surface for thrust washer ride on. I see you put two thrust washers on planetary and then set sun shell over it. Help please .

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Steve, there shouldn’t be a thrust washer on the sun shell-planetary side, I believe I updated the description as to the incorrect procedure shown on my part. You should be ok once you remove that extra thrust washer

[@carriewhite8941]

Just Subscribed. Very informative videos wish you were on KZbin a couple of years back when I tore down and rebuilt my C6. Have had it mothballed for awhile when I was rebuilding my 429 Ford. Now that I've gotten the car back out on the road the only real issue I'm having is when tranny is shifted into reverse the car does move backwards but only with what seems to be some "slipping/hesitation" and giving the car more gas pedal doesn't have any affect in moving it in that direction. Where would you suggest to look first in trouble shooting this issue? Thinking it might be the valve body I rebuilt or hopefully it is nothing further going inside the body of the tranny itself. Looking forward to your reply.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Carrie, thank you for the subscription and views! Do you know what year your C6 is? Is it a 1977 or newer unit? If so, the problem could be in the valve body (check ball sticking/stuck) but most of the time slipping in reverse either a worn, cut, dried/hardened or rolled seal on the low reverse piston. It could also be third gear but if you don't have any problems in third, I'm inclined to think the problem is with that piston.

[@carriewhite8941]

@@nickstransmissions The transmission is original to my 1970 Torino GT which came off the assembly line either late '69 or early part of '70. FYI the tranny was rebuilt before I bought the car, same for the valve body, which I put a new shift kit in it when I did entire rebuild on the tranny. Let me know what you suggest. Thanks

[@nickstransmissions]

Since it's a pre-1977 unit, the low reverse check ball is integrated into the piston itself which is in very back of the case as opposed to the valve body. So it seems you'll need to pull the unit back out, tear it down....First, remove the valve body, let transmission fluid drain into a catch pan....Then once the flow has slowed to a light trickle, begin air checking the low reverse clutch pack via the feed port in the back of the case.. If the apply is weak and you hear a bunch of hissing coming from the sealing ring area, you will need to yank the trans back out and install new sealing rings on the piston. Use between 90-125 PSI of air pressure which is consistent with what the clutch would see at reverse speeds. That should give you a definitive understanding of what's happening.

[@carriewhite8941]

@@nickstransmissions OK, not what I was hoping to hear. When you refer to the "back of the case" are you meaning the end of the tranny nearest the governor/tail piece? If this is the case then it is the low reverse clutch assembly where the potential problem is. correct? Also, I want to make sure there is nothing I need to reassess re: the reassembled valve body? Do any of your videos show this reverse check ball you mentioned? Not sure what is the year of the tranny in your videos, assume it is after '77, correct? I can't recall a "low reverse check ball" being part of the reassembly of this clutch assembly but, it has been a couple of years. Also, doesn't one of your videos show where to do air checks you've noted, and if so can I do this check with the tranny still in the car? Thanks

[@nickstransmissions]

Back of the case = rear of the case on the inside, at the low reverse clutch pack. The reverse check ball is in the piston itself for all C6s up to 1976 so you should have a bleeder ball capsule in your piston. Ford moved the bleed-off circuit for low reverse to the valve body starting with the 1977 model year. Here's my video on air checking a C6 - I show you exactly where to air check the case for low-reverse clutch apply: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKKvlHePeMyhpsk You can perform the air check with the transmission in the vehicle, as mentioned in my initial reply. Let me know what you find out when you do the air check and we can go from there...But as mentioned, if you don't have any issues with slipping or flare shifting in 3rd gear but you are slipping in reverse, it has to be a problem with the low reverse clutch circuit. The usual culprit, especially on fresh rebuilds, is cut seals on the piston...

[@larry-ev5sw]

Good morning nick, I need a c6 forward drum wave plate ! Any idea where I can get one?

[@nickstransmissions]

GM, Larry - contact Transstar tomorrow and they should be able to help you. Otherwise, check w/your local transmission hard parts supplier(s).

[@chrismsm5]

I'm trying to follow this and on my direct drum I had 4 clutch disks but when I try to replace them, I can't get them all in with top plate. I'm not sure what's happened. If I flip the top plate over it fits or it I go with 3 clutches it fits.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Chris, your backing (top) plate's orientation shouldn't matter at all as they are the same regardless of orientation, though I always install it the same way it came out (just a habit). Do you still have the old clutch pack? What is the thickness of your backing plate? If you still have the old frictions and steels, measure the thickness of each then compare to your new frictions and steels...Most C6's have 3 clutch-direct drums from the factory; the heavier duty/larger displacement applications had four but they were decidedly less common. I'm wondering if you had either an aftermarket max pack of some sort or perhaps your backing plate was machined to some extent but these are guesses until more info is shared. Also, there are different thicknesses of clutch pack snap ring so if you're a bit tight you'll need to swap to a thinner snap ring...I cover forward and direct clutch pack clearances here in this newer video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnTRm2mdrpahers

[@chrismsm5]

My top plate is .2960 inches thick but only one side is flat. The other side is concaved or beveled as if to make room for the snap ring. If I install it with that side up, it will fit with 4 clutches and snap ring. Is that what I should do? Unfortunately, I can't remember what side was up when I disassembled this portion.

[@nickstransmissions]

Ah, found the issue...Someone put a forward clutch drum apply plate in the direct drum, using it to squeeze in an extra friction and steel plate, turning a three-clutch direct drum into a four-clutch drum. It's a popular mod but not my favorite as I have read and heard about that plate cracking/breaking under even modest power when used as a backing plate in the direct clutch...if you're not putting out a ton of power and use your vehicle as more of a daily driver you can put it back in but I might recommend buying another backing plate for your direct clutch instead, especially if there is a lot of slip marks, bluing, etc on that apply plate. I discuss this mod in my C6 tear down and inspection video and may do a separate video on it so folks recognize it when they see it, if they're new to the C6.

[@chrismsm5]

Oh wow. I wonder if it was too much because I do have some bluing on the original plates. This truck would hardly move unless I was turning high rpms. I wonder if that's why it was failing. This is in a barn find truck that had been sitting for a few years. The story was the guy rebuilt everything and then went to drive it, and something failed, so he gave up and sold it.

[@nickstransmissions]

Yea who knows what kind of shit the previous owner has done, lol. But this is a good learning experience for you, it's not every day something like that is seen on tear down. I would purchase a factory good-used direct clutch backing plate, forward clutch backing plate (they're the same plate) and perhaps another apply plate for your forward drum, if the current one is heavily blued. I would also measure and write down the thicknesses of the clutch snap rings and maybe grab one or two different thickness snap rings in case you need them to meet clearance.

[@jackdaicole7595]

Also what upgrades are good for my 6.9 idi c6 Trans that would help last longer have a cooler on it already. Is there a way to get rid of the vrv on the injection pump and go cable?

[@nickstransmissions]

Check out Broader performance (broaderperformance.com/product/reverse-planet-gear-with-needle-bearings/)...I'd upgrade to a fully rollerized gear set w/Torrington bearings in place of the thrust washers. Also run the E4OD low roller clutch (most trans shops won't even sell the C6 original low roller assembly any longer). Here is a VRV conversion kit: www.accuratediesel.com/ford-6-9l-/-7-3l-idi-vacuum-regulator-valve-vrv-conversion-kit.html Not sure if you've seen it already but if not, should give you some ideas / places to start looking.

[@notanotherslotguy]

Great Video! Keep them coming!

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks! Will do!

[@jonathanhenderson8403]

Hey Nick, I’ve been trying to find info on how many snap rings the output shaft takes… would you mind letting me know?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Johnathan, There's two - one for the outboard side of the governor support and the other at the front-facing side of the rear ring gear.

[@jonathanhenderson8403]

@@nickstransmissions any idea where to get em… I’ve searched everywhere

[@nickstransmissions]

I periodically go to junkyards and harvest parts I need that aren't commonly available elsewhere...That may be your best option.

[@jonathanhenderson8403]

I’m just gonna start making them myself… that way when some else asks you this same question, you’ll be able to say, “Oh hey, I actually know a guy!” 🤣

[@jonathanhenderson8403]

Yeah, the rear was in decent shape, and the front I was finally just able to find on line.

[@larry-ev5sw]

I am stuck at the reverse drum over 4 or 5 clutch plates and steels

[@larry-ev5sw]

5 will not work.

[@larry-ev5sw]

@@nickstransmissions nick, no sir I bought a transmission rebuild kit from your supply wrarhouse...warehouse.... A stock c6 kit, I am talking about the reverse drum, it take 4 new steels a clutch plate, but not 5?

[@nickstransmissions]

The low reverse clutch takes 5 frictions and 5 steels and they spline onto the outside of the low reverse hub. The high reverse drum (aka direct drum) takes either four or five frictions. Here's a five-clutch drum on ebay as an example: www.ebay.com/itm/203617578453?epid=1711199951&hash=item2f688dadd5:g:6ygAAOSwykNiui6Q&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PynV%2FjYzUJNFd5XPE6eTtv2st7AZ8vw0JHels0YLy6nGhbvahIKModjYRi8zi0oWZ7N7lQp%2BXOPsZsTd0Jiw7%2BrJ9sCFgsmy4UIKTsbRrwqdcqt9XcEPWDmUwRz%2FeT%2BuQNk857AcBzKvDvDQqRcjl0JvqWkKsyHf%2BLqQViKIa0CtOnVN920f2ueQ4X5YUZay1Wcy6gQKAa0yhtGVzt9fqkSE%2BKYixqbLiXc%2FlEI1eD1HRWTA9stlvQTkPqh4iPtkaLK0EOzxIPReGZBkifywZaifxxtRLHFaCmqhSBxNNFp%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrpThgapi

[@nickstransmissions]

Also, I don't have a supply warehouse; perhaps you bought from Transstar? That's where I usually refer folks to when asked about rebuild kit and parts sourcing.

[@larry-ev5sw]

@@nickstransmissions yes sir I have THAT HUB .

[@eliminator1978]

I know this is a year old but I found one discrepancy during assembly. At 56:23, you put a thrust washer on the front of the planetary and the shell. There’s isn’t a thrust washer there and that’s why you thought your kit was short one. The shell gear pushes on the needle bearing inside the planetary not the thrust washer. Hope that makes sense and viewers get that right.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi, you're correct - I mention this in the description as well which is why I ask folks to read it so they are aware). Thank you for watching.

[@lornequinn462]

The pump stator by pass, how do we know the ck ball is free in the bore. A stuck ball will cause over heating ?

[@nickstransmissions]

Yep, if the drainback valve check ball in the stator gets stuck it will prevent cooler flow. This usually happens to pumps/transmissions left outside exposed to moisture and the ball rust-bonds to the bore…Normally fluid pressure opens up the valve by pushing the ball against the spring and plug. There isn’t a way to check it other than removal however some builders simply take out the ball/spring and reinstall/stake the bore plug. Hope this helps.

[@lornequinn462]

Can I leave out the ball/ spring, just put the plug in and stake it ? Thanks for your help, your video’s on the c6 are the best I’ve viewed.

[@nickstransmissions]

Unless you have reason to believe its rusted and/or stuck, id keep it but it’s up to you.

[@frankglasgow]

Can you recommend a GOOD brand of rebuild kit that comes complete? Is a monster kit worth the cost? I have a built 351m in a 78 F250 2x4 with a 1800 stall.

[@nickstransmissions]

I'll answer your second question first - NO...Monster isn't giving you anything that you can't acquire yourself a la carte...you're paying for a name and to have everything already gathered for you in one package... Are you looking to rebuild your C6 or just replace the pump O-ring? Transstar for factory replacement level Cal Kits (filter, paper/rubber, pump bushing/clutch module/vacuum modulator/band). High performance friction modules is available from Raybestos, Borg Warner and/or Alto. You will also want to purchase a new servo piston (check your servo cover's letter designation as that will inform which servo you need). Also replace the intermediate sprag and low roller one way clutch as well as all bushings...Basically follow my overview in Part 1. eBay has many different all-in-one kits that have good clutches for most applications (factory and high performance/heavy duty) and everything else you need to overhaul the trans.

[@CourageOfAchillies]

Where did the kit come from or where did you source all the parts from!?

[@nickstransmissions]

Don't recall where it came from exactly as I source my kits from a variety of places, including my local transmission parts supply house, ebay, dealerships, specialty aftermarket web-based sites, etc....Ebay has decent kits (they are usually referred to as 'Deluxe kits') that come with pretty much everything you'd need including steel modules and the kits I most often use have the Alto high energy frictions which are a great all-around performance option for pretty much every transmission out there. Thank you for watching.

[@tomsky]

Currently lost 3rd gear on my C6 replaced modulator etc 1-2 and reverse are perfect just no 3rd gear curious if any suggestions on what to look for when checking valve body ? Much appreciate any advise before I attempt this 🙏🙏🙏

[@nickstransmissions]

The trans won’t upshift into third when in drive? Or it does but feels like its in neutral?

[@tomsky]

@@nickstransmissions it won’t shift to 3rd at all regardless how high engine rpm it stays on 2nd

[@tomsky]

@@nickstransmissions 1-2 and reverse are perfectly fine and I played with modulator adjustments with no success

[@nickstransmissions]

Gotcha...Was this trans recently serviced / rebuilt or did you just suddenly lose 2-3 upshift after having it work fine for a prolonged period of time? Can you manually upshift into third at all? The problem is likely to be either governor (not as likely since your 1-2 shift seems fine) or stuck 2-3 shift valve in the valve body. Drop the valve body, separate it from the channel plate and separator plate then use a flat blade screw driver to move the valves to see if anything is either sticking, binding or otherwise not moving freely. If you end up having to disassemble the valve body, you can watch my C6 valve body videos for guidance...Here's the assembly video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6rPmpeXbap1nM0

[@tomsky]

@@nickstransmissions most amazing reply I got so far from all the youtubers!!! Much appreciate this very crucial information! The transmission only had fluids / filter replaced about 6 months ago and haven’t noticed anything unusual all I remember engine was bit overheating couple times making me replace fun clutch than I think after around that time I lost the 3rd gear (perhaps engine overheating had something to do with it etc) I will carefully follow your recommendation very very grateful!!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

[@Frontpagefab]

What assembly lube are you using?

[@nickstransmissions]

Lube guard assembly goo.

[@larry-ev5sw]

exxxxxcellent videos !

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, larry!

[@larry-ev5sw]

Got a new reverse drum !

[@Gerald-p4i]

Nick I have a 1972 Ford Mustang with the C-6 transmission. What part of the country are you and would you consider rebuilding my C-6? Your videos are superb and I know you clearly know what you’re doing.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Gerald, thank you for the kind words. I'm out West and would be happy to take on the work if you're in SoCal, AZ, southern NV or UT...But I don't ship transmissions given the cost/hassle so if you're in another part of the country, I wouldn't be able to help...

[@samperras]

I want to ask you a question- Fully rebuilt my transmission, followed all your great videos- quite confident I did everything correctly My transmission is slipping in first gear, 2nd and 3rd is fine I’m lost , what could be the issue?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Sam, is it slipping only after sitting awhile (i.e. overnight) before being driven or does it slip all the time in first? Fluid level checked and good? Did you do a pressure test and air-check the forward drum?

[@jimlauth7587]

Where do you get your C6 kit?

[@nickstransmissions]

I get most kits locally or on ebay and individual performance parts from a variety of places depending on the unit.

[@jimlauth7587]

@@nickstransmissions what brand/manufacturer of kits are you using? Also, where can I obtain the small adjustable bushing puller you used? Thanks 😊

[@nickstransmissions]

Transstar for all factory-level kits including complete bushing kits. Borg warner, exedy, alto and raybestos for clutchs and steels. I get most of my tools on ebay. Ill see what puller you’re referring to and put the tool ID in another reply so you can search ebay or amazon for it.

[@nickstransmissions]

The puller is a kent moore J-45548 “bushing puller”. The slide hammer is an Old Forge 2520… I will do a video on special transmission tools that can be used on multiple makes and models so folks have all that info in one place. There’s several of the pullers on ebay as of this reply.

[@jimlauth7587]

Thank you!

[@gregh6794]

@ 54 minutes ..... That washer on rear face of front planet is incorrect . No washer goes there

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, Greg....I made an update to the description.

[@fomoco173]

So one other thing I noticed Sir, you stated your thrust washer kit was short a 5 tab washer, and you used one on the front planet between the planet and the sungear shell. Every exploded view I've found of the C6 shows NO thrust washer between the front planet and the sungear shell. So thinking that's why you thought you were short one.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi, yes you're correct Fomoco - there's no thrust washer in that location (see description) though it doesn't hurt anything if you do install it by accident. Thank you for watching!

[@larry-ev5sw]

I had to hitch hike to Albuquerque to get a bushing done... the a hole I over paid did the bushing too shallow Will up date..... I for some reason thought you were connected to transwarehouse ! Stupid of me!

[@nickstransmissions]

No worries, larry.

[@larry-ev5sw]

This is Larry rosa of ponderosa fame....

[@larry-ev5sw]

There is no way that my reverse hub will take 5-6 clutch or steels ......!

[@nickstransmissions]

If you watch PT2 of the C6 rebuild, I install the low reverse clutch pack starting at 22:05 where the unit I was working on took five frictions and steels. I wonder if you have the incorrect hub/drum or if you have the drum seated too far rearward in the case (it can move a bit longitudinally). PT2: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXqQYoKbicdgidE

[@stingray6164]

dude give me your address and i will send you a new brush or 2

[@nickstransmissions]

Lol thanks but the moment you take it out of the packaging and use it once it looks like that...several people have volunteered to do the same and if i took you all up on your offers id have more paint brushes in stock than Sherwin Williams.

[@stingray6164]

more brushes than sherwim williams just thought i would throw that out there lol love the videos i will stay away from big letters@@nickstransmissions

[@nickstransmissions]

All good man. I could sell those brushes and buy some more interesting transmissions or purchase more tools haha! Thanks for watching, Stingray!

[@stingray6164]

you can never have enough tools@@nickstransmissions