Ford Cam Sensor Synchronizer Test

[@koffibanan3099]

The things you do and the trouble you go through to make a good and complete video for us are amazing. Especially since you've been doing it for so long. Thanks a bunch for you hard work, dedication and knowledge!! It is very much appreciated.

[@ScannerDanner]

+Koffi Banan Thanks Koffi!

[@MikeSmith-cn6ub]

@@ScannerDanner are you sure that chirping isn't the cam shaft sycranizer because mine is just like that. You Saud serpentine belt are you sure that's not the sycranizer

[@anyheck]

I appreciate the screen recordings and picture in picture you've been doing recently. It really makes it easier to see what's going on. Probably makes the filming easier for you in some ways too.

[@ScannerDanner]

+anyheck In some ways it does. It gives me more versatility. Thanks! I'm glad you liked it.

[@FinalStopMobileAutoTech]

Paul, Another awesome video showing awesome tests. Even checking the ground on my scope. I cant hear enough of! Thanks once again!

[@ozzstars_cars]

Crystal clear explanation and precise, as always. My biggest problem with the video is that it was to short! haha Take care man

[@ScannerDanner]

+Ozzstar thanks brother!

[@glenohara6563]

I have a couple of pieces of white chalk in the tool box for those noisy slipping belts, run the engine and rub the chalk on the friction surfaces of the belt, makes them grip and shut up. Great for when coolant gets on the belts, dries them out. Keep up the vids great viewing as usual.

[@ScannerDanner]

+Glen O'Hara yes! that works great. the tire chalk right? the waxy kind?

[@glenohara6563]

+ScannerDanner No the black board type, it makes the belt grip. Just like the powdered chalk the weight lifters rub their hands in before a lift for grip on the bar.

[@wyattoneable]

I sure do appreciate all you do for us. Amazing the way you super impose the scanner screen so we can see it. That's a nice detail.

[@whitetiger8652]

Great video Paul.

[@rrmech11]

Thanks Paul. Great info as always

[@wtbm123]

Very good video , i always learn something with all your videos

[@ScannerDanner]

+wtbm123 thanks man

[@seniorjuanvaldez]

thanks for the link to the aes wave uscope! that will be my next diag purchase!

[@killer2600]

+Grease Munkee Do your research and shop around especially if you were eyeing the 1-channel Master Kit he linked to in the description. I promise you'll be happy you did.

[@seniorjuanvaldez]

thanks for the advice!

[@stationaryenginesworldwide]

Another great video paul thankyou..and yes about the Uscope i used this scope on my jeep crank sensor for troubleshooting and i am sure it would work here too...keep up the good work.......NOW TO ALL UTUBERS GET THE SCANNER DANNER PREMIUM CHANNEL YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED.....

[@ScannerDanner]

+Warren Kruger thanks Warren!!!

[@daintywalker5861]

a lot of blessing to you ,you are the best ,long life

[@1mouse3]

that is a neat light, I got a green one last time I was on there truck. It has a good magnet with a uv light for a/c testing.

[@claudionorjose3640]

Gosto muito das suas explicações, parabens amigo.

[@Discretesignals]

I believe on this Ford's EDIS, the VRS CKP uses a floating ground and the VRS CMP is non floating. You have to be careful when checking the full amplitude of the CKP signal if you go across both sides of the sensor and you have ADCs that share grounds inside your scope. You connect another channel ground to the chassis or battery while having another channel across the floater CKP, the engine will stall or won't run. Another thing you have to think about on the CKP is which side of the sensor your on so your not seeing it upside down. A rising edge of the sync notch is what the ECA is looking for.

[@ScannerDanner]

+Discretesignals good info bro. Thanks

[@Discretesignals]

+ScannerDanner Learned most of it from you and the guys over at Autonerdz. I really never understood voltage drop testing till I ran across an old video of you checking an ABS sensor fault. That was 4 years ago. Because of you sharing your knowledge on here, you had opened up a whole new world for me and made me a better technician. I can't even remember how I repaired drive-ability and electrical issues before. I guess I was constantly changing the battery in the ohm meter back then.

[@ProudArmyVet1]

I have the exact truck as in this video. Sensor tested good. What are your thoughts in regards to videos and discussions that the AC voltage or noise from alternator can cause this code to trigger when cam sensor is working correctly?

[@sillybellyfriendsramirez6360]

great video can you synchronize with a scanner or the uscope

[@cuzithagreat975]

You seem very knowledgeable, I could learn alot from you, new sub thanks for helping me out bubba🤙🤠

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you!

[@cuzithagreat975]

@@ScannerDanner Yes sir you're welcome.. Thanks for all this info

[@donniemiller3621]

Did you have the ignition on or off

[@jeremyrainwater2175]

Was this a bad sancrinizer or just a sancrinizer position sensor?

[@davidb.fishburn9338]

Good video, Paul. Very interesting. Is that the 4.0? I recognize the engine family, it goes all the way back to the early 70's Capri/Mustang 2. Back at that time, it was a 2.8 Liter, and used a distributor. One thing i'd like to add here, i had a P0340 in my 04 Neon R/T, it turned out to be the little tabs inside the wire terminals in the connector. The tabs were spread apart, pushed them back in, solved the problem for good. That was a couple of years ago. Something to keep in mind when troubleshooting any electrical problem.

[@goenitzlopez9391]

Is there any way this could be checked with a regular cheapy voltmeter paul? Maybe probing both wires coming out? What does this cause? Poor engine performance, poor mileage? Thanks for the great video

[@ScannerDanner]

+Goenitz Lopez yes, you could do that but the amplitude would be very low and difficult to see during a cranking situation (no start problem). With the engine running, you would be able to see it better (if it runs, some cars will not run without the cam sensor)

[@G0NMY]

when you looked for the cam sensor signal you were set to 20volts range (checked for good ground). Would the signal not show up from the sensor on that voltage scale what sort of voltage level is expected is it +/- 5v ac? Just curious no picking fault? I enjoy your diagnostic methods Thanks Mark

[@ScannerDanner]

+markg0nmy for sure, I could have lowered my voltage scales but you would have seen it on a 20v setting as well. Especially with the engine running. Remember the higher the RPM the higher the amplitude on this type of sensor. It would have been at least a 2v peak to peak signal at idle.

[@jimbuford4147]

good video. What do you call the tool from AES Wave? Thanks

[@ScannerDanner]

+Jim Buford it's called a uScope. I put the link in the description of this video. Thanks!

[@billrimmer5596]

Thank u for setting up in poor conditions!! So when your customer replaces the synchronizer, will the scan tool allow u to check cam crank correlation? With no data pid, I am guessing not. The GM cars give u that. Will it set a code if he is off a tooth? Thanks again!!

[@ScannerDanner]

+Bill Rimmer no, you need to use a special tool from Ford to align it properly or it can be done with a scope. I've shown the scope method in another video on a Ford.

[@deyantodorovski4805]

Brilliant!

[@ispychris]

On these older trucks, i would say before pulling your hair out checking sensors just fill your tank with some non ethanol fuel. That might just clear up all your problems. Between summer and winter blend gas and all the ethanol they drown the gas out with, gunk is bound to clog up something.

[@ScannerDanner]

+fishing frenzy you must have deleted your own post because I don't see it here but it is in my email inbox. So I'll answer your questions. 5:17 It is an ignition coil, some systems will not power the coil with just the key on. I proved this one did. Do you know why this test was important? 7:24 ridiculous, I explained this variable very clearly. These housings for the cam sensor go bad all the time. The bushings wear out and then damage the sensor. It needs to have both replaced AND they come as a unit! 7:57 I said I do not think I have a data PID for the cam sensor, so I checked and I was right! I didn't! ALL CARS ARE DIFFERENT! 8:11 "I don't think I have the option on this one", meaning one of the tests I like to do I cannot do because there is no cam data pid. 9:43 wiring "could be" shorted to ground and not a bad sensor. SO I PROVED IT WASN"T SHORTED IN THE REST OF THE VIDEO!! 12:34 do you even know what a floating ground is? I suspected it was and then altered my testing procedure when I found that it wasn't Okay, I'm not sure where your beef is with me but there is something you need to know. I film my troubleshooting procedures LIVE. These are not staged. You are watching me form hypotheses along the way and then either prove them or disprove them as I go. Every single, "I think" and "could be" was answered in this video. I left nothing open ended. I'm not even sure why I'm bothering to respond to this ridiculous argument. And finally, your suggestion for a P0340 CAM position sensor fault code is to run non ethanol fuel? You are clearly on the wrong channel.

[@ispychris]

Go off roading and you'll get all kinds of weird codes that mean nothing. Are you doing a part 3?........I want to see some worn out bushings please. You back probed the ignition coil and said probably 12 volts here?.....Does that vary?.............

[@ScannerDanner]

+fishing frenzy That's a much better tone I am sensing from you. Thank you. I'm sure, if you go off roading, all kinds of things can happen but you will never set a P0340 cam sensor code from any particular type of fuel being used. Here is a video on the worn out cam synchronizer assembly that I did kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYa0oaGdh9Ngl8k start watching about 17 minutes in

[@ispychris]

+ScannerDanner I disagree, if your truck starts bucking really hard from a fuel problem it will set that code.

[@SgtJStupid]

Diesel tech here. In school we were told to never put a test-light in series with a computerized circuit; such as a cam sensor. The reason being, some computer circuitry can only handle so many amps that the test light bulb's resistance could attain and may lead to bricking the ecm. NOW! My question, to you is simply out of curiosity and not criticism as everyone has their own way of doing things. Did you teach yourself to do that on circuits going into the ECM? Did somebody else teach you to do that? Sure, the amperage may be small. But some of those circuits may have such a slight tolerance. Looking for your opinion on my question. We all may be set in our ways, but god dammit we can still be friends!

[@ScannerDanner]

+Sgt Stupid just answered your other question about this

[@MikeSmith-cn6ub]

Danner are you sure that chirping wasn't the sy Ranier and not the sypantien belt

[@timconley2565]

How about using the the old Vantage to see the cam signal? that would work wouldn't it?

[@danielgeng2306]

I guess on a passive sensor like that (2 wire produces its own voltage) you could even completely unplug the ecu and test at the sensor alone, that eliminates the possibility of shorts. Then it’s a bad sensor, or bad synchronizer or the cam isn’t turning. Correct?

[@ScannerDanner]

I always want to test these plugged in, because the ECM will actually cause a current draw on this circuit (for the AD converter to do it's job). So, a weak signal can look good when unplugged from the module! Hope that makes sense.

[@danielgeng2306]

@@ScannerDanner yes sir, thanks again Paul !

[@jeremyrainwater2175]

Is there any way I could donate my 2006 Ranger 3.0 Vulcan that will no longer start up after we heard a bad squealing sound and we had thought it was a belt but I believe it's the cam. Also a friend said he believes has an open ground or wire because he wasn't getting some kinda test correct on that wire your testing in the video here. I just don't know if the 2006 is different then the 2001.

[@stevvas2548]

hi paul on the uscope can an 10:1 attenueator be used for protection on fuel injectors from another company

[@ScannerDanner]

sure, but check with my friends at aeswave.com They will be able to answer this better and get you an attenuator if you need one.

[@DiezCallejeros]

i replaced my camshaft synchronizer on my 2001 f150. was running good for a week and randomly gave me the same code again, now it stalls at stops and runs really rough sometimes. sometimes it runs good what do you recommend? thank you

[@walteranetsberger4498]

I have a verus but aren't you worried about rain paul? I'm too scared to put mine in the rain. lol

[@ScannerDanner]

+Walter Anetsberger sure I am, I didn't soak it, just a little wet and I wiped it off immediately.

[@drwombat]

are you offering a Christmas special for your book I'd like to buy your book if perhaps you offered some sort of Christmas discount

[@ScannerDanner]

+drwombat sure man, buy they eBook and then email me and mention this conversation and I'll then refund $10 on the eBook purchase. The paper book cannot be discounted as it is sold through another company. Thanks!

[@jeremyrainwater2175]

You didn't test the sensor itself. You only tested the input coming from the trucks hardness. I have got to cut mine off and replace it. Wish you could tell me what wire goes where. Think I could call Standard auto parts and ask them which wire goes where

[@ScannerDanner]

Sure I did. What other tests were you looking for?

[@jeremyrainwater2175]

Man I wish you could get a hold of my truck. You could make a very good video out of it. I believe it's a computer and a sancrinizer. I tried a sancrinizer position sensor but got nothing still . It will not start up while cranking. It has great compression

[@jeremyrainwater2175]

On a 2006 model ,does the two wire sancrinizers ground run off the computer?

[@Ax4400]

Great video. Question where is the cam sensor on 2000 Mazda B2500SE 2.5L |4 manual transmission light truck? I'm not a mechanic, my truck cuts off while driving & I don't know any mechanics i trust. How do I find the part number for this sensor or the whole assembly? Thank you

[@JuanDaMajikOne]

Have you tried Chiltons or Haynes manuals?

[@8power0]

Mister danner another great diagnostic video , do you think it's time to add another worthy brand scantool to your arsenal . Seeing a pid to verify cam signal with a bypass test on a scantool i would think is much easier than digging for some module god forbid it's something you differently need to see because like we always say in this business time is money . Just would like to know what you think and thanks again .

[@ScannerDanner]

+8power0 yes it is, I'm looking into an Autel. Thanks!

[@8power0]

+ScannerDanner The g-scan 2 without the scope is a very worthy scan tool and it was an oem tool at one time from what i have read on many forms just a thought .

[@brianpinkmusic6584]

This might sound like a noob question, but I have a 93 XLT. 2.3. I cannot find the camshaft sensor or synchronizer at all. Am I missing something?

[@fisqual]

The 2.3 from 1993 has a timing belt and the sensor is behind the timing cover.

[@rikkmalloy7892]

Hi I’m working on a 1997 ford ranger 4.0 and I’m not getting no signal to the injectors. And my cam shaft synchronizer have 3 pins. And by the way the cam shaft unit is new. Please sir help me with this situation please

[@ScannerDanner]

do you have spark?

[@tmoney6482]

Can i just replace the sensor that's the code that come up?

[@JohnDoe-uq3mx]

Has nobody ever mentioned that a cam sensor determines fuel injector timing? What's crazy about about california emissions is that it only focuses MAINLY on cold start emissions. And you pay a few thousand of dollars more for it, for if it's 50 state or "soley for sale in cali" or whatever you call it or for california only emissions, according to the decal. EPA shit. Anyone remember NRVSIF? haha, no joke though, and it still applies.

[@LynxStarAuto]

Paul I'm not sure how it works in your State, but in my State technicians need to be licensed (besides certifications), and that license must be renewed biannually, before the tech's birthday. We do that by completing 16 hr trainings, and receiving a completion cert we present to renew. If you could tie that into your premium channel, it would be superb for everyone.

[@ScannerDanner]

+Lynx Star Automotive (Gabe V) How would we prove the 16 hours?

[@ScannerDanner]

+ScannerDanner I'm game for trying to figure out how to do this for you guys.

[@LynxStarAuto]

ScannerDanner You would need to supply a certificate of completion. You know those diplomas techs get for attending a training seminar, or webinar. I usually do mines with PTS. I attend their webinars, and they allow me to print the diploma once I am done. I can then take said diploma to the county, and renew my license. You would need to do some homework on your end and figure out what you need to do, to provide legal documentation to your students, and/or audience. I think you are halfway there. I'm sure someone at Rosedale can guide you on that subject matter.

[@jeremyrainwater2175]

Man you are awesome! How can we get in touch? I would pay you to fix my parents Ranger! And this is where the problem is! We are always getting it looked at and ripped off! We got more than 1000 dollars to just get a diagnosis and they are always saying something in the timing. So it makes sense but i guess they just aren't that snart and cant diagnose like you do. Do you think the Ford Company would do testing like this and find the problem? Thats the only place we have not tried!!!

[@ScannerDanner]

Be prepared to pay for testing time, but try one of the shops that use my training for their techs scannerdanner.com/find-sd-shops.html

[@jeremyrainwater2175]

Brian's motor works in Fayetteville NC? 😢. I would donate this truck for a class to find the problem! I will also pay for the work!!! Wish you guys could come and visit me or help. I love my truck!!! Poor thing still sitting because we now lost the keys. I was gonna just try and get a new ECU with keys already programmed to it and a sancrinizer and position sensor package along with getting someone to help putting it back into TDC on Compression side. 2006 Ranger 3.0 Vulcan has the direct ground from the ECU and not floating. Well what I mean the opposite of the 2001 in your video!! Lord Jesus Christ help me get blessed by a crew like this on KZbin. Scanner Danner is awesome. This Ranger will probably sit and never get back on the road since I have know help!! I live in Ellerbe NC it's about 2 half hours from Fayetteville

[@jordankahele14]

The part where the big boy meets the right size pants, well only when the pants doesn't fit the hall effect under the hood anymore lol.. And by God yes, you do need a Varus.

[@movingupautodiagnostics8645]

Hey Paul, since this is a VRS type and produces an analog signal, can I still use a test light and watch for flickering? Also, I don't know circuit design here, does this signal goes to an AD converter so I can use the test light to test the square wave??

[@ScannerDanner]

I never tried on a VRS. And yes they all go to an AD converter but most of them are part of the PCM itself, so nothing you can do.

[@movingupautodiagnostics8645]

I see, definitely need that uScope.

[@jesusmalagon4336]

thanks thanks thanks thanks paul

[@vacuumfreak95]

And new fan belt! How can anyone drive around like that? It would absolutely drive me insane! Also, my father has a 99 Ranger with this engine, it has 260,000 miles on it and still works. A/C is broke and engine runs rough, but it still starts!

[@JuanDaMajikOne]

What kind of symptoms does one get with a failing cam sensor?

[@danielgarcia9095]

Mr Danner I am so so confused I did a timing chain on a 2006 5.4 3v ,I made my marks and took off the chains and put them on the marks I made and put back together and p0345and p0349 electrical codes then I found out that the chains had no colors so you have to make your own and that's where the timing has to be set and so I did it again and no codes why didn't it give me a out of correlation code? When I first did it and it was off timing, I am so confused any help so I can understand thanks a lot

[@ScannerDanner]

Daniel I've never done chains on this engine but I will tell you that if you have a correlation fault code, you are most likely going back in to do it again. My friend FordTechMakuloco has a series on this. Here is part 1 kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIK5fKGaZ9dgrdk Please let him know I sent you okay?

[@Pablo_Automotive]

Fantastic video =')

[@ispychris]

+Pablo A He always says should or might?......What's up with that?.......If you don't know for sure don't mislead people.

[@Pablo_Automotive]

+fishing frenzy for me this channel is one of the best in diagnosis. My limitations of English do I can not express well, but for me Paul have all my respect, and as we say in my country, we all make mistakes.

[@ispychris]

+Pablo A I just don't want anyone to waste there money changing something out when that doesn't solve the problem.

[@Pablo_Automotive]

+fishing frenzy This is the first intention of the channel (no change parts to change), but I think you can not know everything, because there are many conditions that only they know the engineers who designed the PCM, and who do not share with mechanical, even within the official dealer I was working for several years at authorized dealers, and not always share everything But Paul does not act in bad faith

[@ispychris]

The dealer knows everything if they have good intentions. Some dealers do not, so they just create large warranty bills. That's why you find some cars cheaper at certain dealers, because they don't try to scam money out of the manufacture and hire techs that want to learn not just parts change. Here you go with the key word think?.....Your just like an unqualified tech. Don't say you think this would work or it might or maybe it should. Hahahaha and i'm not even a shade tree mechanic, i'm a no tree mechanic. I doubt this was the problem on this vehicle. I would like to see more evidence.

[@Mikesky10]

other then the horrible noise amd the check light on, what other symptoms will have a no cam signal on this engine???, because despite that you say it sets in an emergency state, what is going to feel the driver???, because it seems that the engine is running very well and dont have a long crank time and no engine stall.

[@ScannerDanner]

an engine can run pretty well with no cam signal depending on designs of the ignition and fuel system

[@RajuYadav-fd9wl]

what is floating ground? is it come through high ohm resistor from ground?

[@killer2600]

+Raju Yadav A floating ground is a ground that isn't connected to main/battery ground. Think of two cars in a parking lot or driveway, both have ground wires but they aren't connected together. Between the two cars ground is floating.

[@RajuYadav-fd9wl]

thanks bro, understood !

[@YouTube.TOM.A]

+Raju Yadav THINK about if you climbed up on a electrical tower. [ don't do that ] one electric wire is 5000 volts the one below that is 3000 volts. there is an electrical potential difference of 2000 volte. If you touched both wires the lower value [ 3000 volts ] wire will act as a ground and current will flow through from the higher voltage to the lower [ approximately 2000 volts of potential difference ]. absolute ground is the same value as a wire connected to earth or the negative post on your battery. The bird sitting on a 5000 volt wire all day long is in no danger because there is no higher or lower voltage nearby

[@YouTube.TOM.A]

+Killer2600 One error in my explanation is that current flows from the negative to the positive. It's different to how our brain wants to conceptualize it but lightning goes up from the ground not down from the sky. You may also check to see if there is a Scannerdanner Tutorial on floating grounds on this or his premium channel I am sure you will benefit from viewing it.

[@killer2600]

Tom A That's technically not a floating ground. Floating grounds have electrical isolation. As per my simple explanation, if you hook the positive end of say a test light to one car and the negative/ground to other car the light won't light despite having proper positive and negative connections to two charged batteries.

[@jeremyrainwater2175]

What if it's not starting up and just turning over and over?

[@ScannerDanner]

You want me to list all the possibilities of a no start? You'll need to first start by doing some testing and find out what you're missing. Spark, fuel, and compression are needed

[@jasonmurdoch9936]

My question is would this cam synchronizer and or sensor is it possible to have the truck do a crank but no start does anybody have any idea because my truck was making these exact same noises before it quit

[@ScannerDanner]

depending on your system, it is possible? But I think these can run without the cam signal? It's been awhile. I'm sure I covered that in here.

[@LoreMaster2006]

Couldn't you just unplug the sensor and put the scope across the sensor pins then start engine? There always has to be them haters that give you thumbs down. Not from this guy, thanks Danner.

[@dkupy100]

+karl winter I don't think the engine will start.

[@ScannerDanner]

+karl winter almost impossible to do given the location but yes you can test a vrs as you described

[@charliemcguire8820]

ScannerDanner, what scanner are you using here? Thanks!

[@ScannerDanner]

Snap on Verus or Solus Pro, not sure off hand

[@sandspritpark]

Help!!..any idea y I'm getting 5 volts on crank position sence AND..reference!!??.hooked to CP's and not hooked up..2k ohm on ground. 700 code and 320 I have an extra PCM I'm going to try..thanks Heep's!!

[@douglasdailey5998]

I put a cam sensor and a crank sensor in my 2003 Ford ranger 3.0L Because i had a check engine light come on. I put both sensors and the truck ran worse than it did before i put the two new sensors in it . I got mad and took the duralast sensors back to autozone. After i returned them the guy at autozone asked if i had programmed the sensors into the system of the truck. Does anyone know if you have to reprogram your computer on the Ford ranger for the cam sensor and crank sensor to work ?

[@ScannerDanner]

You absolutely do not. Especially in that model year

[@douglasdailey5998]

@@ScannerDanner thank you for the feedback information. I did not think that it needed to be reprogrammed. It has rough idle and a miss .there has to be something else wrong somewhere. I was looking for EGR but i could not find it. I thought maybe the EGR might be dirty. I will check further tomorrow.

[@douglasdailey5998]

@@ScannerDanner can the TPS make it run rough at an idle ? I'm just fishing at this point.

[@douglasdailey5998]

@@ScannerDanner the code on the ranger was po316.

[@ScannerDanner]

@@douglasdailey5998 let's move this to my forum, it is free to join www.scannerdanner.com It's just too hard for me to do back and forth messages here. But we can absolutely help you with this.

[@jianruli3750]

what happened if there is no power feed coming out from the ecu

[@ScannerDanner]

No power feed for what?

[@Mikesky10]

what is a "floding groung design"?

[@ScannerDanner]

It is a ground that is not equal to battery ground. I see you're an SD Premium subscriber now right? If so check out my chapter or section 21 lectures. The first part or two I cover this floating ground thing in great detail. Thanks Miguel!

[@Mikesky10]

ScannerDanner cool paul, thanks, i will!!!!

[@rhkips]

Ooo, rain! I like rain. I make more money on rainy days; partly because the colder temperatures and moisture bring new problems to light, and partly because I don't mind working in the rain. >:) You mentioned early in the video that you would expect a sine wave from the sensor, and for some reason I would have expected a square wave. Misspeak, or am I completely off my rocker? :]

[@ScannerDanner]

+UnbiasedAuto the three wire design is a square wave and the two wire design is a sign wave. Ford makes both

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍👍

[@HayesMobileAutoRepair]

having an issue yall, it an infinity g35.. have a code of p345, ever time i erase the code while the car is running. the car stalls.. and the symtoms is........ it take several seconds before the car actually starts up... runs fine when it starts.. i dont have a scope and was wondering if anyone else ran into something like this. the erasing the of the code and stalling has me stumpped... computer fault... also my scan tool will not communicate with the car but the cheap code reader will... three wire cam sensor btw. thanks

[@killer2600]

Just checked out the price on the uScope link and I was sticker shocked. If that's DIY'er type budget then I don't know any DIY'ers, only poor folks with greasy hands. For those thinking about buying a uScope Master Kit I urge you to do your research (and alot of it) before spending that kind of cash on one of those *insert no kind/family friendly expletive here*

[@IsshmanGarcia]

you can buy just the uScope itself for $129 then pickup the other items later on, that's what I did. Well worth the money! scope it and cut the middle man ( useless tests).

[@rahnolson6881]

another reason to believe sencer is you probably have oil psi.

[@carlosfavela9616]

👍😀

[@efanclublolsmaforlife2501]

fix that 7.3 turbo oil leak

[@stella362436100]

2003 regal no ac r134 is ok fuses ok looked at climate control module looks ok now whats nexts