Ford Duratec 2.0L HE Ti-VCT Engine - Tear Down - Part 2

This is part 2 of my series Ford Duratec HE Ti-VCT tear down. In this video I go over the various components of the valve train and I also go over different aspects of the valve timing on this engine. Once I explain these components I then remove them and finally remove the cylinder head. I then explain further the direct injection fuel delivery system and go over a few aspects of the cylinder head.
Here is a link to the first video in this series: • Ford Duratec 2.0L HE T...
Here is a link to part 3 of this series:
Ford Duratec 2.0L HE Ti-VCT Engine - Tear Down - Part 3
• Ford Duratec 2.0L HE T...
Link to part three coming soon!
Note: just after making this video I discovered that the cam holder part of this tool kit is prone to bending when tightening the cam sprocket bolts. This can throw the valve timing off during cam sprocket replacement. Beware of this possibility if you choose to use this kit and take precautions to prevent it from happening.
Here is the link to the tool kit featured in the video:
www.amazon.com...
Disclaimer:
Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses, protective gloves and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbour's Auto Help, Barbour's Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour's Auto Help makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, synchronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Verify everything with your own research.

[@vlader7515]

Perfect buying that same kit lol and a diamond washer just in case!

[@Francois_Dupont]

funny to see him struggle to remove the water pump and seeing the sweeled seal.

[@SylvesterOziomek]

Best tear down video I've seen

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Thanks!

[@vlader7515]

If it’s out of timing I have to put tdc first then the camshafts should line up?

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Yes, they should.

[@house89147]

Great video, keep up the good work it is appreciated and really helpful.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Much appreciated!

[@JacoNell-p7q]

Keep it going - great knowledge being shared. I have one of these and am currently struggling to diagnose a problem where the car seems to periodically suffer a loss of power and the car sounding like it is running on 2 or 3 cylinders. So this helps a lot!

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Is the check engine light on?

[@JacoNell-p7q]

@@BarboursAutoHelp Not at all and also no error codes on the scan tool. Starts every time, idle reasonably stable (+/- 790 rpm), temperature pics up slightly when stopping after driving at above 3000 rpm and in heavy traffic - probably max 105 deg C - but cools down after a minute or so and keeps at 90 - 93 deg C. But the lack of power is very apparent when the whole engine / engine compartment is hotter. Fuel consumption is also good at 6.3 - 6.7 l/100 km. Doesn't seem to consume cooler fluid and does not seem to burn oil above average usage. I have installed 4 x new coils, 4 x new spark plugs and 1 x new crank sensor - without any difference.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

@user-oh9uu2lp6z I wonder if the evap canister purge valve may be getting stuck open from time to time. Is the symptom more noticeable just after filling up with fuel?

[@JacoNell-p7q]

@@BarboursAutoHelp I'd have to say no difference when running with a full or near empty tank. I do about 3 fill-ups a month and is required by company rules to drive full to empty (at least into reserve) to save on card charges.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

@@JacoNell-p7q give me some time. I’m gonna check something. If you don’t hear back the next day make another comment to remind me.

[@vlader7515]

Finally got tool to check timing and it was way off. Is it possible to wedge in a tool to adjust timing without removing timing cover? Or is that stupid?

[@vlader7515]

To adjust cams

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

I don't think there is an easy answer for you. I'd suggest getting a manual for this project. I'm not able to walk you through it in the comments. You are going to need illustrations and the whole nine yards. I don't think you'll be able to get around taking the timing cover off. Also, I don't remember, did you ever get an oil sample? Is there excessive metal in the oil? If so, It's possible you may need an engine. Not sure.

[@vlader7515]

@@BarboursAutoHelp ok I’ll make sure to take it off and so far the oil was clean I’m hoping for the best

[@VworksArt]

Thank you for this. I'm a visual learner so this was really helpful.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

No problem at all.

[@vlader7515]

Lol praying I don’t have to remove the chain to do the timing

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

What exactly are you trying to do? What problem are you having?

[@vlader7515]

@@BarboursAutoHelp So super long story short car oil leaked because of oil plug. Then it would just crank with no start.got a bunch of timing codes so trying to see if fixing the timing would give me spark😅

[@vlader7515]

@@BarboursAutoHelp lol comment keeps getting deleted?

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

I see you now. May have gone into my “review “ comments. Do you have a code or something? Is that why you are going into it?

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

@@vlader7515 Oh, I was able to get to my desk top and check my "held comments". This comment was held for review. The system automatically does that. It didn't like the lack of space between start. and got. Any how, are they "over reatarded/ advance codes" or " cam/ crank correlation codes"? It may not be a bad idea to take an oil sample. There may be excessive metal in the oil. (not saying this is the problem, but it's unusual for this engine to jump time.). If there is excessive metal in the oil then there is a good chance that the VCT solenoids are plugged with metal. And, if they are plugged with metal then it's probably best to replace the engine. The solenoids are easy enough to remove and check for this.