Ford Ecoboost 1.0 - *The Sequel* - Sump removal, wet belts & oil pump strainer inspection

[@eamonnhenry8161]

Excellent video, very informative, well made. Can't wait to see your video on changing the wet belt. Thank you!

[@blairwinchproject2855]

Thanks! I still have no intention of ever changing the wet belts... 😀🔧

[@gjwestonable]

Great video thanks. That tool with the cotton bud you used to clean the oil strainer looked like a tape head cleaner I used to have.

[@blairwinchproject2855]

That's exactly what it is, a handy thing to have on a shelf. We are showing our age here - although I still run a car with a cassette player 😀🔧

[@rickialford2014]

Hello, I was wondering if someone could help me, does anyone know if you can clean the sump without taking off the air con compressor unit? Many thanks.

[@blairwinchproject2855]

The compressor has to be unbolted and supported as in the video but it doesn't have to have its hoses disconnected so it's pretty easy 😀🔧

[@SimoneTonini-e5n]

😂 grande motore 🎉

[@petecurran3995]

Well done and well worth it! 👌🏻 Must check mine. (2015 with 57k)

[@blairwinchproject2855]

Thanks! I wouldn't worry too much if you have always used the correct oil and you are not losing any coolant... 😀🔧

[@petecurran3995]

@@blairwinchproject2855 oil annually at 3.5-5k and no coolant loss to speak of 🤞🏿

[@seanmcdonnell8437]

Good job

[@blairwinchproject2855]

Thanks 😀🔧

[@someone7507]

Great to see this inspection video. I have seen a few ecoboosts on youtube which are around the 100.000 km mark and the oil strainer is very clean. In all cases the owners said they used the ford spec oil and regular oil changes, between 15.000-20.000 km. So I am wondering what has happened in the blocked oil strainer cases? Why did those belts fail? Can it really be only the oil condition that makes the difference between intact nelts like you have, and totaly desintegrated ones? I admire the way you work! Very very nice.

[@blairwinchproject2855]

Thanks, it is a bit of a mystery why some Ecoboost wet belts go on forever and some break up badly, and fail or block the strainer. My suspicion is that owners or garages use the wrong oil - the proper stuff is mighty expensive. 😀🔧

[@SomeOne-w9u]

I have read that the parts need to be assembled within 5 minutes after applying this ThreeBond silicone gasket. That seems to be quite a short time, especially when it is needed to seal a large part like the one you did. Did you manage to assemble the sump within these 5 minutes after covering it with the silicone gasket?

[@blairwinchproject2855]

@@SomeOne-w9u Yes I think 5 - 10 minutes is the recommendation although it is probably temperature dependent, it seems to take longer to harden in my cold garage but I can imagine it would set quickly in hot dry conditions. I made sure both surfaces were clean and ready, applied the sealant and fitted the sump straight away - easily within 10 minutes. 😀 🔧

[@someone7507]

Hello again. Since I am thinking about doing the same oil pump strainer check somewhere in late summer, I started gathering info regarding the torque specs and tightening order. The strange piece of info I found is that Ford says that the oil pan bolts should be replaced with new ones once they are removed. But I could not find the reason for this. Did you use new bolts? Do you know if they are made of aluminium or steel? Or they are self-locking and new ones are recommended to ensure they will stay tight? Thanks?

[@blairwinchproject2855]

@@someone7507 I didn't fit new bolts and can't think of any reason to. The Haynes manual doesn't mention new sump bolts although there are several others on the engine that they state should not be re-used - cylinder head bolts, timing cover bolts and others. The sump bolts are straightforward steel bolts and not locking, also not torqued up very tight, they just hold the sump on firmly and the liquid gasket doubles as an adhesive and a seal.

[@martinstefanus371]

My Fiesta Ecoobost is experiencing oil and water mixing in the engine, even though I have replaced the cylinder head gasket and also the cylinder, does anyone have any suggestions to help me?

[@blairwinchproject2855]

I would have said the head gasket but if you replaced that and fitted a new head, that's less likely 😀🔧

[@petecurran3995]

Oil cooler?

[@chrisheard1701]

What's the torque of the sump bolts? thanks

[@blairwinchproject2855]

10Nm for sump to block bolts and 48Nm for the two sump to transmission bolts 😀🔧

[@chrisheard1701]

Great stuff. Tackling this the weekend 👍

[@blairwinchproject2855]

​@@chrisheard1701 I hope it goes well, getting the exhaust off is the worst part 😀🔧

[@OSTKMPro]

I'm about to do a service on mine, its 2013, its done 81180k miles, it has really good service history apart from 2 missed services during covid. Do you think it's worth having a look?

[@blairwinchproject2855]

If it was mine and I was confident that it had never had the wrong oil in it, and if there is no engine warning light or oil pressure warning I would just leave it alone. The life expectancy of the belt, with the correct oil, should be at least 100k miles - it might fail sooner or later but it isn't due to be changed yet... 😀🔧

[@OSTKMPro]

@@blairwinchproject2855 cool thank you

[@JW-mu1og]

@@blairwinchproject2855but when engine or oil pressure light appears, the results of this can be expensive. Maybe it is better to react sooner when you want to keep the car in good condition.

[@blairwinchproject2855]

@@JW-mu1og Engine warning light for camshaft position sensors, or low oil pressure, can be due to the oil strainer being blocked with belt debris - so what I meant was: if you have never had those warnings, and there has never been the wrong oil used in the engine, you might not have to worry too much about the belt. 😀🔧

[@Nathan-qt2zi]

Checking mine on Friday, 2013 with 94k and the last 4k haven't been easy on it 😂

[@blairwinchproject2855]

Good luck with it, let us know how it goes 😀🔧

[@MAKISDELIOPOULOS-e6c]

Έχω και εγώ το ίδιο αυτοκίνητο και βάζω λάδι 5w20

[@blairwinchproject2855]

Yes that's the correct grade, it also has to meet the Ford specification 😀🔧

[@rajpopat3384]

There is annocement from Ford to all the dealers to start using 0w - 20 oil - this is suppose to help. ….

[@blairwinchproject2855]

@@rajpopat3384 I hadn't heard that - does anyone have a copy of the service bulletin? 😀🔧

[@reginaldverasmus1656]

My experiance is that the belt condition is ok till around 90000km then it starts to break up rapidly even with the correct oil grade. Something to note is that the cam sprockets are not centered and can float off center whilst idling.

[@blairwinchproject2855]

Useful, thanks 😀🔧

[@WeAreTheUnhappyMajority]

Belts are failing after 5 years usage, most failing with full Ford servicing. I believe your belts are only 1 year old.

[@blairwinchproject2855]

These are the original belts on a 2014 car, so ten years old and 70k miles. It is a mystery why some belts fail early and some are still OK after 100k miles but I know it is crucial to never use the wrong oil. 😀🔧

[@CosminB3]

@@blairwinchproject2855 what do you mine by wrong oil? diferent brand or only use 5w20 for ford motors regardles of brand. i know Castrol is the recomended brand but i used liqui moly for mine. is that bad ?

[@robertjones3477]

I believe the main issue is to ensure you use the exact correct oil specified by Ford and also change the oil every 6k to 8k miles no matter what mileage you do oer year. I have been monitoring all the various comments from people in the forums and noted the comments. It seems that most issues are due to bad service history or using incorrect oil or both. Yes the belts do and will degrade in time thus blocking the oil pick up filter however, using correct oil and regular oil changing seems to give mire longevity to the blockage issue. The other thing I have observed comment wise is don't wait for the Ford recommendation of 10 years or 150k miles to change the wet belts, do them after 60k miles especially if you do allot of short journeys each week. Again iv seen strip down videos where there has been belt wear and belt particals in tge sump and in the oil pump filter after 60k miles from cars that had down mainly short journeys. Also when replacing belts make sure both wet belts are changed no matter what. Hope this helps to anyone who reads this. The only thing is the very expensive cost to do this work as its a nightmare job to do taking around 7 hrs to strip all and replace all to achieve wetbekt change, plus special tools are required as well. Some private garages have to hire in the special tool kit for the job. The average Ford garage cost is around £ 1,800 to £ 2,000or more yes I did say £ 1,800 to £ 2,000. There are garages out there that have the tool kit and do this on a regular basis cheaper than Ford @ around £ 1,500 to 1,600 pounds. Just need to find one near where you live👍

[@rwalton159]

5yrs? Where is your evidence of this?