FORD EXPLORER ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING BLOWN FUSE DIAGNOSIS & FIX

In today's video, we take a look at a 2017 Ford Explorer w/ a 3.5l V6 engine. The vehicle is at a repair shop because the owner replaced the alternator with a remanufactured unit, but it still does not charge the battery. The instrument panel shows a warning about the charging system and the vehicle dies if left running too long. After doing some basic checks we find that we have a blown fuse, but can this fuse be replaced? Does replacing the fuse even fix the problem? Stay tuned and find out!
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[@billyyoder8171]

Thank you Eric. Good job. Tech tip: Ford smart charging systems with GENCOM and GENMON. Maybe you already covered this in other video. If the regulator has any ability to control the alternator, unplug the three wire connector. Start engine, raise the rpm to 3,000 for a couple seconds. Let it idle. Test the alternator positive post for a default charging rate of approximately 13.7 VDC. Same goes for GM smart charging systems. Nissan/Infinity same concept, except you can't unplug the connector to get it to default charge. You have to depin the control wire from the connector and plug the connector back in. Then start the engine and if the regulator is working, it should default charge to approximately 14 VDC. Have a blessed week.

[@iantoniou76]

i guess that this could sole the problem but maybe the battery indicator will be on. Very common problem with many FORDs

[@davidwall6851]

You know what I love about your videos, I don't have to watch all the "fluff", you get right to the point address the symptom go through a detailed information stream and start to diagnose. You explain everything your doing in just enough detail and your attention to detail is awesome. Eric, keep doing what you do and I will continue to watch! I would watch your most boring video 100 times before watching one of those fluff talk videos that get nowhere in the first 20 minutes then skip around trying to find the "important" stuff cause I'm pissed watching someone talk about how good they are all while doing "NOTHING". Best way I can describe the difference between you and "them". Please understand I haven't seen a boring video from you at all.

[@onemechca]

Love your wiring diagram tutorial. You make it easy to understand. Thanks for your teaching.

[@mikechiodetti4482]

You did the diagnostics and found the problems.....all of them! Good job Eric!

[@MaquinasDePalomitas]

I watch a lot of these types of videos but let me tell you, your’s just blows it out of the park man!!!! Best tutorial ever!!!

[@douchedidit9222]

Hey man I absolutely love the deep technical mechanical stuff u do to bad there isn't more of you doing great honest work man

[@sclm55]

Very, very instructive and enlightening my friend. Really appreciate the patience in your videoing your procedures. Also, giving us insight into what it appears few would have been able to relate regarding the location of the Alternator Fuse. Great job and quality videoing.

[@roxanneabbott8424]

I love diagnostics and your teaching is awesome, thank you Eric!!!

[@adriennedove]

I was saying the same thing… I’m sure when I go to the shop I won’t be bamboozled. Thank you Eric!!!!

[@mrkttrdr2919]

one of the best most detailed step by step explanations of a charging system diag anywhere! , nice job and thanks for taking the time to show this excellent video

[@johnaclark1]

I'm 3 minutes in and already found the problem...the oil cap is installed upside down. This I learned on Rainman Ray's channel. This is critical to proper vehicle function!

[@vinces8974]

Isn’t that the truth

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

I was also thinking of that upside down cap. RAY would had stopped right there before proceeding.

[@kv2280]

Stupid stuff like that drives me crazy Hahaha.

[@bigseejohnson6804]

You sound like the Waterboy! 🤣

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

Yeah! Comment Number 260! So glad to see the majority of your channel back intact!

[@bionicman6969]

Such excellent very detailed info. Thanks man.

[@50calops]

Keep bringing the great content! Reading a wiring diagram comes very easy for you,.

[@tanyakayfisher7752]

Thank you so much very informational and yes I opened up the air cleaner and there was a signs of squirrel nesting so removed all that stuff and put it all back together in the room my car started up I was so low and behold so thank you so much much appreciated great instructor

[@RelizEkpoJnr]

This guy should be a college professor. He explains difficult things exceptionally well.

[@sjn7220]

Love your methodical analysis 👍

[@davidgriffin14]

The most detailed KZbinr

[@addamoliver]

Can I give you 10x thumbs up? You just saved me a huge amount of time and money. Well done sir.

[@jgeorges3061]

ERIC, Thanks for great information u share with ur videos you always be AWESOME in my book as always learning from the best like you is an honor and really appreciate ur time and effort thanks.

[@frederick6008]

Great analysis. It's rarely one problem.

[@orlyman24]

Your videos are always great!

[@williamwhite9767]

Thanks a lot for this video. It helps me understand how these new alternators work. My wife's 2013 Infiniti EX37 had a battery light and a brake light on. I checked the voltage and found the alternator wasn't charging. It was hard to get to and I wasn't sure how to troubleshoot it so I made an appointment with the Nissan dealer to get it repaired and I charged the battery. The next morning I put the charger on the battery again and I started the engine to look at why the brake light was on. Anyway, when I disconnected the charger and left to take it to the dealer, it was charging and both lights were off. My conclusion was the computer had a brain fart and charging the battery with the engine running woke it up. The car only had 43k miles on it.

[@billfrete8487]

Typical Nissan product. Never again. :/

[@JR-km9zg]

video worth watching for the info on the large fuse location and r and r. good linear thought process . thanks.

[@darrellbrown8547]

FLIPP'N FORD and their great designs. Great video. THANKS!

[@wrhj66]

I can't believe I just learned all that for free. Thank you, kind sir!

[@JCMTexas]

Excellent video. Maybe the best I've seen.

[@gaelylesly]

bien explicado como siempre tocayo. saludos desde el valle

[@ivangonzalez7868]

Maestro eres muy bueno en tu trabajo y esplicas muy bien cada paso que se tiene que aser y lo que tienes que usar muchas gracias por compartir tu said sabiduria que es tu trabajo de muchos años de esfurzo y tiempo muchas gracias mil bendisiones maestro 😇🙏

[@juansquestbro2008]

remanufactured try to save you money but sometimes waste your money and time.. great video! keep it up!

[@OneLegged-honda-mechanic]

Always enjoy your content 👍

[@arthurmiller8336]

Good tips and I like your videos you go into great details that is very helpful

[@franka2507]

Thanks for the education...well done.

[@themechanic6117]

I had a feeling that the "rebuilt" alt was the problem and the blown fuse was caused by someone who's inexperienced trying to do the job themselves. Great video

[@thenewguybas]

They probably did the same thing he did in this video. Left the battery connected and arced the positive while working on it and blew the fuse. The whole time he tested the fuse box with the main power sitting right there, the battery was still connected. Don't be a rookie. Disconnect the battery if you're not gonna tape off the live wire.

[@Timkasa82]

Great work. Thank you for sharing.

[@chrisreyes2799cr]

Good stuff as always Eric 👍

[@benjaminlevi7792]

Great video thank you so much for your great information

[@isalmankhan1]

Great video, Thanks for sharing Bro👍

[@billrimmer5596]

Super job. Thank u very much!!

[@rrmech11]

Excellent job 👍👍

[@dencioz55555]

Geez man you should be an instructor on to trouble shoot very severe car problems. I’m so impressed man.

[@unperromas6180]

Ese fue un buen trabajo, very good job I got it very good job

[@micheljauvin3536]

you are doing a very good and interesting job

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

As Ivan would say, you made a 110% sure on a good Diagnosis before firing the parts cannon.

[@PhillipBailey]

The large fuse blows when the battery cables are connected in reverse. In that situation the rectifier bridge is a dead short. It's been my experience those Ford alternator will still charge with an open Gen mon or com circuit. I've even had one that charged at 13.5volts with the three wire plug disconnected altogether. Great video.

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

Thanks for the info!

[@jaandel1]

@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO ijust got an issue P0625 said the code. and when i start the car after 1 minute later my sterring wheel get kinda lock hevay to turn... test battery and its show its not charging in full propably aleternator. no visible fuse blow.

[@SirPeluza]

@@jaandel1 did you get it fixed? i just had the same problem

[@josephpalacios1159]

Great job

[@alrifainidal]

nice work buddy .

[@marioarias3298]

your are the best my friend!

[@siucbset]

AutoCircuit: Did you make a video on the understanding and reading of automotive circuits/diagrams? If you have not made any such videos, do you have any recommendations?

[@rickcruz3737]

Hi Eric, I also had my alternator rebuilt here In Houston too. Even though it’s cheaper and it did its job, the bearings gave out about a year later. They don’t replace all parts in it unfortunately. The alternator still worked according to the auto parts store. I would never take that road again since I only rely on one car for the family.

[@trky4]

Great video

[@jasoncruise5949]

Great Diag. Sir

[@kevinenlund3004]

Great Content!

[@juerbert1]

Well done !!☑️

[@Mako-sz4qr]

Love your diags !!!

[@borgsimpson935]

Eric awesome tutorial. I'm a gearhead. Digging the tutorial. Thanks for the learn and unlearn. I thank you 4 the replys. I would like a recommendation on a charge/powerpack, u use. In the field, that toy u use. Would be awesome. And a recommendation on your diag, toy. Would be cool. I kept a list. But being on hiatus due 2 injury. A diag toy, under $ 600, to do field work. Your advice would be appreciated.

[@JT-lq4yd]

At least you didn't go down the rabbit hole on this one. If I was the owner of this Explorer, I would replace the battery as it probably is 6 years old and has been under charged for a while.

[@ebrahimsadeghi5883]

Good job bro

[@danielgarcia9095]

Beautiful diag!!!!

[@aymenmohamed1134]

Nice job❤

[@miguellandon9497]

Gracias muy buena explicación, estaría genial unos videos en español

[@chadgardee1496]

Hey Eric how you like that Braun light in the video I was thinking about getting one great diag

[@luismarty1685]

Thanks Eric. We'll done.

[@samrugtiv3839]

Dam good job eria.

[@edgarhernandez1060]

Buen vídeo

[@Joemama-km9np]

Good job, lots to take in. Tu ayudante la cago without telling you!

[@jamesatkinson6480]

Trying to piece the scenario together, I believe a situation existed where the 325A fuse had blown, (by method of shorting the alternator output to ground with a charged battery still connected, or to connect a battery in reverse with the alternator (output) still connected) and, seeing (at a late stage) that the 10A (red) fuse supplying the regulator had been removed (unsure when, but possibly before the car came to the workshop), it is quite possible the 'remanufactured' alternator would actually work with these components installed intact, supplying power. After that, I would clear the DTC's, and test again... As there were many 'handlers' in this task of repair, we'll never know that the alternator may have only needed a set of new brushes (less than $20.00) to get it charging again (with disassembly/reassembly)...

[@TheBaccaClench]

Hey Eric. I have been watching your videos a little bit now and wanted to reach out to you for your help. I have a ‘13 Mini Cooper base model with the n16 and it is doing the weirdest thing. Starts at idle but when you give it throttle, it won’t rev past 1500 rpm and just goes up and down like a rev limiter. Replaced fuel pump, coils, plugs not sure what’s going on. Was wondering if you could help me out?

[@mayydayy8101]

The last time I watched your video, you quit doing vehicle repairs . I also lost interest but have recently been seeing you doing some new videos . What motivated you to start again

[@cooly350]

Thank you

[@pureblood2020]

Great video. I have a 2017 Police interceptor 3.7L. Have been having an intermittent “service charging system light” for the last 1800 miles. It goes off when I accelerate hard. Any ideas what I can check/ replace. Tensioner pulley and serpentine belt was my first thought. Vehicle has 118,000 miles. Thank you.

[@raulmarin1544]

Hi eric, nice videos. I would like to know where you shop is located .

[@poohwecampbell7799]

Nice video and. Details only problems is I don’t know where your shop is located

[@courtneylabb1788]

I’m having this exact issue withy 2017 ford explorer. The “charging now “ alert came on one random day then my car died within 45 minutes of driving. Popped the hood, the battery was completely corroded with battery acid/water and there was some corrosion on the terminals which I cleaned off. Could the corroded battery have triggered the blown fuse? Replaced battery, still same issue. Trying to check things off the list before I change the alternator.

[@DJ-tn7vj]

Yo E what have you been up to? Video content slowed down this year. This means that you are busy. Great video bro

[@kevinlopota3626]

Another tip, before you replaced the 325A fuse when you were checking it with the power probe and it was lighting up with the green light and giving the lower tone it was telling you that the connection you were testing was showing negative voltage (ground)

[@thenewguybas]

He definitely went over that.. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@alexjfalcon873]

You're f;:"ng. awesome. Mucho respecto hermano.

[@PhillyDee215]

THAT FUSE IS MASSIVE😯

[@mikec.8556]

Had the same problem on mine . Guess what the problem was …..alternator. Guess what I did , went out bought a new one because the thing was 10 years old anyway .

[@qcsupport2594]

The service info you referenced said there's PWM on GENCOM (no surprise) *and* GENMON (!). You scoped GENCOM, would be interesting to scope GENMON some time for giggles.

[@RCjunkie]

Is this the same for a 2018 ford flex alternator

[@kv2280]

From your description of the wiring diagram It looks like everything goes through the regulator. My guess is the regulator is bad. What did the "rebuilder" do, change brushes and call it good?

[@martinarrieta248]

Grasias

[@TATOOVIDS]

I have a 2017 Ford explorer XLT 3.5L I had my ac compressor replaced yesterday. Now I have a but today my car died and before it died it said saving battey shutting car /engine off... Is it possible that the mechanic forgot to connect something or do something or is my alternator or fuse just bad or something? And my water pump needs replacing the car over heated when the coolant got low.

[@scientist100]

I got owned by one of these alternator connectors on a 18 F-150 because when I back proved the connector, I was making contact with the inside pin which was still ok but it had crusties right under the wire insulator that feeds into the connector, I could not explain why the computer was seeing a bad MON but it turned out that it was indeed open but when I did my test, it looked good because I was back proving it but the wire going to the PCM was not continuous; always check your wires, in my case it was justified because the connector on this Ford truck is buried behind the alternator and you can't see the connector itself, you kind of have to use a plier and then a screwdriver to push it out so, I did not see the wires that well plus the car was flooded and there was dirt everywhere. I ended up finding the problem after I slapped a new alternator (expensive) and found out that it was still doing the same thing, in my mind I thought that the alternator was not sending out the right signal. There was little information on what each wire does and the alternator was charging fine.

[@db65559]

I have a 2004 ford explorer 4.6 v8 and I have check charging system on. It wasn't charging, and I changed the alternator and battery. Light is still on, but I'm getting between 14.5 and 14.6 volts while running. So I believe it's charging?

[@IamReadyToRock]

buen diagnóstico

[@billmonroe8826]

"You shouldn't be doing this while the vehicle is running but, really I don't have any good excuses". In other words, the disclaimer is, do as I say not as I do. lmao. Good video 🙂

[@mikesabin8568]

You cant do a proper voltage drop test on case ground of alternator or postive cable on alternator unless car is running, so I disagree completely….

[@Fredoynanfamily]

Can it be the belt also?

[@tnamen1307]

In the diagram, the alternator has 4 wires. Even if alternator is charging the battery, I'm confused which wire is responsible for turning ON and OFF the charging indicator lamp on the cluster. Please elaborate more. Thanks.

[@Giorobot]

He already posted a video in wich he addresses that in detail, kinda hard to miss while he mentioned it in the first part of the video he lefted the link to it

[@mikeadler434]

👍👍

[@mansornaseri2371]

👍👍👍

[@jogmas12]

I mis-wired a new alternator on my truck and burned out a fused link. After the fuse link burned out the alternator would not charge the battery.

[@user-mx4nk8jd4j]

The smart charge Ford alternators are supposed to have a limp home mode ,by unplugging the 3wire connection at the alternator, by using residual magnetism they're supposed to charge at 13.8 Volts at 3000 rpm.

[@moeitan4505]

👍👍👍👍

[@Eremon1]

I'm not certain, but since the Explorer platform is also shared by the Ford Police Inceptor Utility vehicle those Police cars can have a lot of onboard equipment like computers, radios, lights, etc... they probably require more power than your average consumer vehicle on that main 325A circuit. Rather than make two separate fuse boxes, Ford probably just used the one.

[@alvinshultz1]

@11:20 If your power probe is reading a ground at the B+ terminal at the alternator would this mean the diode is blown?

[@alvinshultz1]

I also wonder if the key was off, and there was still voltage drop on this fat wire going from alt to battery there may have been reverse current flow, further draining the battery.

[@thenewguybas]

Do none of you watch the video before you comment?

[@Giorobot]

@@thenewguybas maybe no comprende ingles

[@vinnycastillo6588]

Glad u showed me where 101 was I was like heres 93 but where’s 101?!?

[@rmracing1]

There is a Ford part available for that fuse. It's KU5Z-14526-A.

[@jdtractorman7445]

You just got to love "remanufactured" parts. Their quality is utter crap. I have seen lately a lot of the other guys on youtube like Eric O., Scanner Danner and others have issues with aftermarket or reman stuff. It really is a crap shoot.

[@iantoniou76]

Ford's classic crap. Ι have encountered this problem many times and in many different models of this company. The only way to make a successfull alternator repair in many Ford models, is to use the FORD regulator with the FORD brand stamped on its box (but manufactured by DENSO, Valeo, Marelli) and not the EXACTLY SAME and also ORIGINAL regulator produced by the alternator's manufacturer himself (eg Denso, Marelli, Valeo etc). Very common problem in many FORD models sush as Focus, Cmax, Fusion (european market names) I bet that this alternator 99% will charge normally on a tester. I wonder why they sell these voltage regulators while they know they will not work on the car... Thanks Eric for the video!! Greetings from Greece