Ford Explorer vent selection actuator for stuck vents on defrost

This video explains the process of changing out the vent selection actuator for a 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 Ford Explorer. Part number YH-1769.
If the vents on your Ford Explorer do not switch to the selected setting this video is for you. If you can't get cold or hot air there are plenty of other videos showing how to switch out the blend doors being the glove box.
Link to a follow up video showing a few things I missed to mention on my video. He has a few good additional pointers.
• Ford Explorer HVAC mod...
Here is a link to the process for an F150. This video shows the process which is much simpler for the F150 but it gives you a good look at what you're doing when removing the red clip and the harness.
• How to fix air blowing...

[@donpackwood3464]

This is a really GREAT video. I just finished the replacement on my 2015 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L. I ordered the part online from Rock Auto, but the manufacturer had given them the wrong information saying the the YH1769 part was for a 2017-2019 Explorer, so I got the wrong part first. I found it easier to mark the new YH1769 so I could align it to the same orientation as the bad part, then connect it and let it rotate to the correct position, and disconnect it. If you don’t disconnect it, it continues to rotate) With that done, I placed it in place, and put in the screws, top front first, bottom next and then found it easier to use the 90 degree tool from the bottom, with help from my son to line it up and presto, we were done. Oh I used Tick-Tac in the socket to hold the screws in place, which worked really great too. Replaced everything and it works fine.

[@burn31]

Great to hear. Happy new year

[@curtishendrix2493]

Hey my friend. I also plug my in so it could rotate to the correct position.

[@ricks3313]

Do you mean you plugged it in BEFORE you instled it?

[@JV-wq1yw]

@@curtishendrix2493 I do not understand the plug in step prior to installatiom

[@monastra7]

Please explain plug in and rotate to correct position. You mean change the vent setting?

[@jeffreyward595]

This guy deserves a medal for going back and capturing all this (for us) after he was finished with the replacement. I'm certainly glad he did. Ford deserves to have their asses kicked for 1) installing such cheap actuators in the first place, and 2) requiring a dashboard dismantle to replace them. Reminds me of replacing a heater blower fan on my old Pontiac. Had to cut a hole through the wheel-well to get at it. Later I asked the dealer mechanic how he would have done it. Same way. No wonder most people have switched to Japanese or Korean cars.

[@burn31]

Glad I could help!

[@jimfowler2010]

Completely agree that FORD screwed up here, what a BAD DESIGN!

[@abrahamalfaro9225]

Thanks for this video. I did it in 1:30 hrs. I confirm the most difficult part is to put it on back again in the same position you put it out the damaged one.

[@davidlangley6738]

Thanks your video was a money saver. I used a magnetic 5/16 bit to hold the screws and was very helpful removing and replacing them. Thanks again.

[@rcplayday7937]

3 years later and this video is still putting smiles on faces. Well done man. And THANK YOU and if all 600+ commentors completed this themselves, you've saved us likely a million or two😊

[@Ayaseben1981]

Thanks for posting this. I just got done changing the actuator out in my wife's 2015 explorer sport. Took me about 3 hours, I'm a bigger guy so my arms took a beating, none the less you probably saved me about $1000!!! Thanks again!!!!!

[@burn31]

I'm glad the video helped you out. Three hours ain't bad!

[@steveespinoza8527]

I am having the EXACT same problem with my 2014 Ford Flex. I have changed out the lower Blend door actuator (driver side) but I've heard there's another one above it. I have a crazy feeling the one i need to change is in the same place as this one. Awesome vid! Gonna try this weekend!

[@burn31]

Thank you. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck!

[@rontaylor60]

Was it the same for your flex as I have a 2013 Flex dual climate limited thats just blowing out the defrost but its not clicking.

[@strombie]

Awesome video. Just did mine today and followed this video. One thing that I did that made a big difference was this- I did not follow your directions to turn the gear manually to get it to line up. I noted approximately where I needed to turn it to, marked it on the new unit, and plugged it into the wiring harness. If the battery is hooked up, you can then hit the ignition button to turn the power on, and you'll see the gear turn. When it's in the right place, quickly unplug from the harness. Turn off car/unhook battery, and check to see if it's lined up. When my battery was hooked up and the harness plugged in, the gear would start turning randomly, so i had to unhook the battery when I got it lined up properly. Also, I could not get the red clip back in place, but the harness fit snug, so I don't think it will be an issue. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks for saving me $$$$!

[@burn31]

I think it's a great idea. I wish I would have thought of doing it myself. Not sure about the red clip. Hopefully it will hold. I'm sure it will. If it starts acting up you'll know what to look at first. Thanks for the info

[@jimlambert8402]

Thanks for this great video. My son and I did this job today in about 3 hours using your method plus some help from the commenters. I did everything except the bottom screw and he did that when he got home from work (he's a little more flexible than I am LOL). A couple of things I learned: I bought both angle drivers, the DeWalt from Lowes ($30) and the Harbor Freight ($10). We used the DeWalt on the top screws and the Harbor Freight on the bottom because it is about 75 degrees, which worked great. I used a small strip of duct tape to hold the screws on the 8 mm socket to restart them. Also, to orient the splines on the new motor we used a 9 volt battery to turn the shaft to match the way the old one stopped. One other hint I recommend is to find an extra motor screw in case you drop one - we did and could never locate it. But we found one in my spare screw collection that was close enough. Your video is the most thorough repair video I have ever used, and was 100% accurate. Thanks again and I owe you BIG TIME!

[@burn31]

These are some great tips. Thanks for the info.

[@blk95gsrt]

Next time take the old motor apart and pull the piece out that turns the door and use it to rotate the door to match the new motor. Makes life quite a bit easier! I've been doing actuators for years and just thought of doing this the other day for the first time lol.

[@luisram11]

You are the man. Thank you for this video. Just what I needed. Even tho it’s gonna take some time. But I need the AC in the face. The summer is coming! Thank you. You deserve another MD!!

[@burn31]

Hope you got it fixed 👍

[@SKS_Progress]

You are a king sir! I tried to drive today and fog wouldn't clear. Found this video quick and did the same except I was able to get bottom bolt without dropping the metal lower section. I replaced mine with Dorman 604-228 from AutoZone. Since I had the one for the dual climate replaced on warranty and now this i don't think I'm I trust the motorcraft actuator lol

[@newgen_oldlifts5389]

Really appreciate this video, saved me a lot of time and money. Can’t say enough good things about it. I was able to get it all done in two hours and one minute. Biggest issue was getting my bear paws to put the actuator back in. Thanks again!!

[@stevel.4461]

Just finished with our 2015 Explorer. Thanks for the tips and making this video. Overall not that bad of a task. I would like to make a shout out to the engineers that made this somewhat a pain, kiss my ass for the accessibility to this actuator.

[@gregedgar5284]

Thanks for taking the time to document this. I am the guy that removed the dash, and it was a BIG and daunting task. Even with the dash removed, the bottom screw was a bit of a challenge due to the large wire harness that runs right across it. When I had this problem, I was amazed how difficult it was to find info on the web. You will/have undoubtedly help many people with this.

[@burn31]

Boy, that must have been a pain. I considered removing the dash but my my laziness and lack of patience took over haha.

[@BillAnon]

That bottom screw was a problem for me as well, until I got a REALLY bright light to see the screw. Once I was able to see it I took a screwdriver to push the wires in to the point where I could easily get a wrench on that screw.

[@blk95gsrt]

Just in case anyone doesn't have a 5/16 socket... That 5/16 socket is the same as an 8mm socket, that vehicle doesn't actually use any SAE bolt head sizes on it, they are metric, so it's technically an 8mm, but a 5/16 fits the same so either can be used. Great video man, thanks for posting it! Side note, if anyone watching doesn't have a 7mm, a 9/32 is the same.. nothing is the same as a 10 though, you'll need a 10

[@caderiding7614]

Thank the lord there are people like you that will take the time to make a great video like this. Followed this video step by step and it took me about an hour and a half start to finish. Saved me a pile of money doing it myself. God bless you good sir!

[@burn31]

That's great to hear. I'm glad to have helped in some way. Take care

[@smash15031]

Dude you’re a lifesaver. Still sucked doing it, but u were spot on. Thanks a lot!!!

[@burn31]

Glad I could help 👍

[@terryklaers1001]

Thanks for the video! Took a little bit longer with my fat hands but you saved me lots of time!

[@anticheebus]

I can’t begin to thank you enough! This video saved my butt and my savings account! When I told my wife the dashboard had to come out she wanted to take it to the shop for repair. When she saw that you made it possible she had a little more faith than the normal under the hood repairs. Might have been different than yours, but my actuator was held on by 8mm bolts, not 5/16”.

[@mariahjohnson4731]

My 15 Explorer Sport is having this same problem!! Thank you soo much!!

[@burn31]

Glad I could help 👍

[@tomross1391]

Everyone who used this video to replace this actuator should really send this guy 50 bucks. Excellent video my man.

[@patriciacapito5398]

I have one more thing that helped me do the job on my car. I painted the screw holes with a bright color! Easier to see with all that black things up in there😊

[@TheSteveo2626]

I'm having this exact problem with my 15 Explorer Sport. I almost want to get a ridiculous quote from the dealer just so I can feel accomplished when I fix the problem with a $15 part and a couple hours. Thanks in advance.

[@burn31]

Good luck!

[@clerissonmesquita]

Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.

[@charlesdavis1454]

Thanks! followed this video on my 2015 explorer and was done in under 3 hours. only thing i did different was i didnt break open the old one. instead, i held the new one and old one side by side and plugged in the new one. As it spun i unplugged it at the same position to match the old one

[@jessicamccollum4009]

Had this problem with our 2015 explorer over this past week. Ordered the parts and followed this video. Thanks so much for posting. Took about 2.5 hours but got it done and couldn’t have done it without this video. Awesome job!!

[@randyreuscher1275]

This video was spot on and exactly what I needed for my 2015 Explorer Sport. I paid $30 for the part and took me about 2 and a half hours to replace. Easy and straight forward with this video. Definitely, some fumbling around because of the tight space, but very doable with some patience and the right tools. Much appreciated!

[@seanspeiden9339]

Do you recall the part number for your 2015, I need one for mine!

[@shawnhalverson8108]

Much appreciated! You saved me time and money. Thank you

[@benburke8337]

When do you get to kick the guys a** who designed that s***?

[@wfenton]

Just finished up the replacement of the actuator on my 2015 Explorer XLT (3.5L). Thanks to this video it was an absolute breeze. Part number YH1769 was spot on as well as the Dewalt 90 degree attachment. Took me about an hour total solely thanks to this video! Everything was just as shown, including the need to disassemble the old actuator and rotate the vent controls (mine was approximately 15-20 degrees.) I found that the back upper screw was easier to access from below with the use of the Dewalt attachment. All in all, an easy repair after watching this video. Thank you so much for documenting and help the masses here save $$$ by fixing DIY!

[@phillyminily9693]

Could this be done from just the bottom

[@kylemorrissette6212]

I was quoted $1700 for this recently; fixed it myself yesterday. I definitely didn’t put that back actuator bolt back in, but I got 2. Keep making videos man, you’re doing people great by them!! Thank you, so much!!

[@davidingvardsen3131]

My friend, you are my hero for capturing all this (after doing so much work figuring out how to do it). I replaced the actuator yesterday in less than 2 hours because of you. THANK YOU!

[@burn31]

Thank you! Glad I was able to help.

[@philippeducut9702]

We did ours under 2 hours, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. The flex tool is sure is the key and I'm glad I bought it for this job.

[@burn31]

Awesome! Glad the video helped out

[@DominicBlier]

Damm thank you 8000fucking times thank just save at least 6-9 of labor I'm a mechanic at a car shop and I had this job to do and found your video very clear and all bought the tools you said saved my drinking ass

[@davidbray8810]

Man, I can’t believe I pulled this off! Thanks SO MUCH for this video, it was exactly what you should do. I lost one screw for the actuator but it seemed like it is held very securely with two, so I’m taking the risk. 🤞🏼 Also, one tip, don’t forget to grab your small flashlight before putting everything back together! 😆

[@adriancotolan8894]

I also lost a screw, does it hold pretty good?

[@matthaas9802]

This was awesome, thank you! Some additional tips. I think you can use a u-joint instead of the flex head. Also you don’t need to crack the actuator. Just position it close and turn on your ignition. Put a little pressure on it while it turns and it’ll pop in place when aligned. I had to plug in the gauges to get the climate control to turn on.

[@TheTrahano]

You single handedly just saved me 1400 dollars! Thank you! Works like a charm and took me a little over an hour.

[@burn31]

Wow under two hours. Nice!

[@lotus956]

$1,400? Gees man

[@JPSO1677]

Great Video Thanks lots of help

[@2008GTCS]

THANK YOU...this was a huge savings for me and my family. It was a very time consuming and "awkward" job with all of the hard to reach around areas, but your video was amazing. If you were local I would go buy you a beer right now. Thanks again and I so appreaciate you taking the time to post this.

[@burn31]

Glad I was able to help. Cheers!

[@edwardclarke293]

Really good video but I figured out one improvement. There is a way to remove the mounting screws without buying the 90 degree flex shaft from Lowes: after removing instrument cluster and all the under steering wheel shrouding, remove the brake-light sensor by turning it clockwise 1/8 of a turn. Then you can easily reach both screws with a 3-in ratchet extension. As the video ways, use a 5/16-in socket. The correct part number for the actuator is YH-1779 (Motorcraft).

[@pigmo76]

YH-1779 is not the correct part number, I bought it because I saw your comment, though it was a correction from the original video. I would recommend you clarify what year are referring to, to avoid other KZbinrs making the mistake.

[@sallystocklinski5195]

Great video! I also have a 2015 Ford Explorer. I have no air coming out of my front vents, defrost only and floor. Hoping my husband can fix this himself. You make it look pretty easy! Do NOT want to pay a dealership that kind of money. They have already taken too much. Thank you so much for posting this. If you have any more tips regarding this replacement please let me know. Thanks again!

[@lesterfturner8799]

Man you are awesome. I've been dreading changing my actuator, but after watching your video I'm more at ease. Thanks man!

[@burn31]

You're welcome. Good luck!

[@sims2bavaroTd]

Saved me thank you!

[@jima3700]

Thanks for the video! Although it was a bit on the long side, really helpful for showing the access to the motor. Took me just under an hour... it was actually 1:01, but that includes time to get the magnifying glass out so I could read the part number on the socket I used so I could share it with y'all (see below). I have to say, I spent 12 years as a technician at a Ford dealership, which was helpful; however I left 15 years ago, so never did this job before. I also have small hands which is extremely helpful. For the top two bolts I used a swivel socket (Snap-on part # TMUSAM8 - $50) and a 15" extension. Snap-on tools are not cheap, but I already had the socket from back in the day, so it cost me nothing. For the bottom bolt I just used a regular 8 mm socket and a 3" or 4" extension. No drill needed for the actuator bolts, although it will make the job go faster if you use one for the trim bolts. As far as the engineering goes, don't complain. There are some model Fords that you MUST pull the dash to replace the blend door actuator. They don't build cars with the convenience of repairs as the first priority. Moreover, in the early 2000's the blend door itself would break on some models and you would have to replace the whole plenum assembly... meaning R&R the dash, replace plenum, incl discharge and recharge the A/C system... that was an all-day job at the dealership with all the right tools. Another tip for keeping a screw/bolt from falling off a socket: pack a little Vaseline in the socket and then put the screw into the socket (don't laugh, it works). It works well on small screws, not so much big stuff. BTW, wasn't necessary for this job, as I was able to start all three screws by hand because I have small hands.

[@dittmerku]

This is the BEST video on changing this part out. If I could contact this guy I would buy him a case of beer! I couldn't have done this job without this video.

[@erisec89]

Thank you so much for this video. The job went just as you said it would, took me 3 hours (I had a flexible drill attachment but not one with a 90 degree head, that would have made it much quicker). Your documentation of the job is much appreciated!

[@burn31]

Glad I could help 👍

[@danlukas7540]

Burn - thank you for the video. Just changed the actuator in my 2015 Ford Explorer. Its nice to have the damper controls working again. The total job took about 2 hours. I have a couple of quick suggestions that made the job easier. I used a 1/4" socket set with a universal joint extension. It gave me a little more room to see while I was working. On the actuator screws I used a 5/16" impact driver with the socket set because it is magnetic. It made getting the screws in and out easier. With respect to the actuator alignment, I plugged the instrument cluster in and stood it vertically on the turn signal arm. with one finger I was able to hold the new actuator gently against the damper sprocket and cycle the damper controls. When the actuator cam aligned with the damper sprocket, the actuator slipped in place. It took one cycle and about 30 seconds of work to line everything up. Following your video, made this a manageable job. In fact it took more time to get the top back screw for the actuator back in than the balance of the job. Thank again for your help.

[@bobcrappies]

Thank you for this video. It helped a lot.

[@bobbyrehm7780]

Awesome video. Straightforward and incredibly helpful. There is a high level of suck I was due to the tight space, but with some patience, it’ll save you a fortune.

[@OneThird1533]

Hey man, so glad I found this video. My 2016 explorer is currently only blowing air from the front facing vents and won't switch to defrost of foot vents. I assume I need a new vent selection actuator. I don't have much knowledge on auto mechanics but I still might give this a shot..Worst case I'll be at the dealer but I can't NOT try to save myself $500+

[@burn31]

You can do it! It's not too difficult. It's having the patience that's the hardest part really.

[@matsuiflex]

Good man. Thank you

[@wimsupply5710]

Great video and walk through of the project. I did this on a 2016 Platinum Explorer. The part number was accurate for the actuator that changes the modes( vent, floor, defrost). I did use the 90 degree tool for the bottom bolt as well and it made it easy. Thanks for the great video help.

[@SteveLavin-g6r]

Took me 3 hours start to finish on my 2017 explorer. Hardest part for me was the bottom bolt behind the wire harness, I could feel the bolt but had a hard time getting the socket on it both off and on. All hood now, thanks for the video.

[@ethan4539]

Hey same just did mine too. Crazy world

[@christopherjones6245]

Great video. I completed the replacement this weekend on my 2015 Explorer. It is a challenge to get the actuator off and only slightly quicker to reinstall. I did buy the 90 degree flex drive. It was useful for the 2 top screws. Burn_1327 great job. Thanks for posting this video!!

[@burn31]

Glad to hear the video helped you out.

[@brucemiller212]

Great video! Just successfully finished this project as well following the instructions to a tee! It took me about 2.5 hours being as patient as I could be to insure I didn't accidentally break anything. Thank you so much for doing this video!

[@orinamos7586]

Where the hell can I take you out for a beer. You have not only saved me and other thousands you also made it to where anyone could understand what needs to be done. Thank you!!!!

[@adamwatkins-hi5uy]

I've never commented on a youtube video. Ever. But this one saved me so much time and money and provided so much comfort, that I had to leave a note. First - I was able to order the correct part quickly and got the tool specified as well because I've wanted to get one (and really didn't know they were that inexpensive.) But after replacing the incorrect blend motor (the one right below the one in this tutorial) I was able to get this one replaced in under an hour and it worked immediately. Thank you for putting the time and effort into this video! Much appreciated!

[@davidfontenot5367]

Thank you for taking the time to post this, you explain/show the process very well. I have a different issue with my explorer HVAC but ran across this while doing research. At least now I'm prepared to tackle this job if it ever comes up!

[@burn31]

Good luck!

[@cpope8503]

Also the Motorcraft YH-1769 interchanges to Oreillys Dorman brand with line code #DOR and Part #604-228 just Incase there isn’t a Ford dealer in your area or if you do and they don’t have it in stock. 👍🏻

[@burn31]

How did it go?

[@mikereynolds3792]

Thank you for this, took me under an hour start to finish. Put some tape on the three screws that mount the actuator to keep them from falling off.

[@AlexLeon-ig2wm]

Thank you so much man! 👍🏼 I just fix mine today, little bit tricky and time consuming but finally got it, nice video and good explaining,

[@herb2745]

Burn 1327: awesome job on the video. I bought the right angle tool and removed actuator but kept it plugged in. I then changed the settings on the dashboard and the actuator gear wheel moved to different positions on its own. I removed the center bezel and stuck a prybar inside the vent and it was really hard to move the damper. I sprayed white lithium grease in the pivot points and again with the pry bar, then moving much easier. Re-installed the same actuator and working fine. Thanks for the video.

[@burn31]

Awesome man! Glad you fixed it.

[@ncliquids8656]

Just replaced mine on a 2016 explorer. Same part number. Thank you for the video. I did not use the dewalt flex 90. A 1/4" long extension with a 1/4" swivel at the end worked just fine on all 3 screws. To put the screws back, I taped the screw to the 5/16" socket with masking tape.

[@euelmatos8826]

Amazing videos!!!!! Thank you soooo much. Just did my 2016 limited. One tip, you could move the white wheel where the actuator goes using a flat head screw driver to align the key of the new actuator with the hole to make it easy to install.

[@UnshelledShoes]

Do you know if the white wheel should be fairly free when turning? I took the old apart to use it to make adjustments. I can't budge it.

[@mikeborgie1]

Great video! Thank you so much for the time and money-saving tips! I am taking it on today. I need to have defrost now the snow has hit!

[@burn31]

Good luck! Let me know how it turns out

[@jcroft26]

This video was extremely helpful!! I just finished using this video to replace mine. It took me 2.5 hours to do the job. I used Dorman part# 604-622 from autozone and it fixed my issue on my 2014 Ford explorer. Thank you for this very detailed video !!

[@derekclark2594]

Thank you so much for putting this out. Your instructions were flawless. Took me a little over 2 hours and would have been quicker if I had not been extremely deliberate keeping tools and screws organized. Very well done!

[@tmentele]

Thanks for the video on this. Got my wife's done in a little over 2 hours. That back screw is a pain in the butt! That was the only problem I had tho. Everything else went pretty straight forward...just, as you say, take your time and try to remember where all the screws go!

[@dfutrell7]

Great video!!!! Thank you for posting. I followed your direction and repaired my wife’s explorer in less than 2 hrs. People like you make KZbin great! 2015 explorer limited.

[@ShaneSzczerba]

Thanks! This is great. Going to be alot easier with the tips and notes. My wife's 2016 is the worst car to work on. Aske me how I know... Want to replace the front low beam headlight bulbs, have the pull 1/2 the front end off the car... Want to replace the water pump, have to pull half the engine apart...

[@BillHaferd]

replaced mode actuator on 2015 PUI. lots of extra wires under there .. be careful as i didnt install same day as i took out problem unit. when putting back together, jack which goes to dash housing is same size as actuator jack and so easy to plug in and play around with since it has long cable.. use wrong jack get no result other than it somehow switched from front only to defrost only. upon giving up and putting dash back together found extra jack cable not long enough to reach dash, put 2 and 2 together swapped to correct and bingo.. i have full climate control again.. thanks

[@Daniela-s1]

Thanks for the video. I followed Your instructions step by step and You’re right, it can be done in about 2 hrs. The 90deg tool You recommended it’s a must. I’ve tried the new dewalt 90deg version but it didn’t work it was to thick. Thanks for saving us $1400 👍🏻

[@kctom]

Just did the swap out on the wife's Explorer. This video was invaluable. Couple notes, the bottom plastic under the steering column does have two screws that need to be removed. I was able to do the job with 1/4" extensions and a universal joint for the actuator's top two screws. I didn't need the DeWalt tool. Would've made it easier though. For me, the bottom actuator screw was the hardest putting back in. All in all, a $30 part and a couple hours!! All good now. Great video.

[@Ripper-1992]

what I ended up doing was holding the actuator in place and plugged in the dash and had wife select the vent mode and it popped right in place. Great video thanks for the all the info. Also i used a piece of electrical tape poked a hole in it and taped to socket.

[@burn31]

That's some good thinking 👍

[@josephmodica1671]

Great video step-by-step. Thank you For sharing guys like you share your knowledge not hide it

[@scottp4193]

Amazing video bro! I did it myself and your technique works man.

[@BassPicker74]

As with everyone else here, thank you for your video. Did the whole thing in about an hour and a half on a 2016 Explorer. I used the 90 bit to get the bottom one reaching from underneath. I could use a long screwdriver to turn the vent selector to line the new part up. Thanks again! Cheers!

[@MitchGeddes]

Thanks for making this video! Saved myself a ton of time, and repaired it in about 90 mins. The procedure shown was spot on. Advice for other viewers: the 90 degree attachment isn't 100% necessary as a swivel attachment will get the job done. I used three 1/4 extensions, swivel and socket to get to the top 2 screws. It wasn't easy, but it did the job. I'd also recommend a pair of long reach plier to help you hold the replacement unit in position while you try to insert it into the notched holes.

[@burn31]

👌👌👍👍👍

[@chrishatcher2184]

Okay so I just finished exchanging out the servo. I’m not one to normally take my car apart and fix much unless it’s VERY easy. Somehow the thought of spending $1200 to replace this part got me motivated enough to try. Along with your video I felt confident I could do it. There were times that I needed to step back, take a breath and start again. Mostly the upper back screw. It took me well over an hour just trying to get it back in. After about 3 hours I finished the project and it worked. Time for a well deserved beer. Thanks for the video.

[@robusa5082]

Great video...I'm getting ready to go in and change that part...I have a 2012. Question on the Dewalt tool, it appears its designed for drill bits, how do you attach a 7mm or 5/16 socket to it?

[@Wannna_bet]

You just saved me. With this video!!! Thank you so much. Just ordered the part.. thank you!!!!!

[@giranam0harper423]

Omg. This video is a life saver. Took me 3 hours and that's only because my bits weren't magnetic so I lost one in the dash and had to go get another. And because my actuator came in assembled incorrectly so I had to carefully take it apart, fix the alignment, then reassemble. After I did that, it took just 15 minutes to install and screw it back in. Thank you so much for this video!

[@carolynpfeiffer8650]

So grateful for this video and the man that took the time to record it! Saved us hours of frustration. I was able to get the tool from Harbor Freight for about $12 and we were done in less than 3 hours. Ford Motor Company should be ashamed of themselves for the junk that they are putting their $35,000 + vehicles together with.

[@burn31]

Thank you! Glad the video helped.

[@christopherfinch7243]

Great video Burn, I helped my brother in-law do this yesterday. 2-1/2 hours start to finish. We had the Dewalt tool but we just used a 1/4 " ratchet with it, not the screw gun. Seemed to fit a little easier. Thanks again !

[@burn31]

Awesome! Glad it helped you guys out.

[@adancortez1740]

Thank you very much, man. I just use this video and it helped me out a lot. I'm sure it would have been a pain i* t** a** to do it without this video

[@neto24k96]

Great breakdown and description appreciate the time and effort. I have same project I gotta do and video gave me more of confidence to go through the project earned a sub and like 👍

[@luisgarcia-tn4dj]

Hey mam thanks for that video it helps alot, but one thing that I found to adjust the actuator leave the driver side open plug the actuator have some body to open the passengers side door and the actuator will turn itself unplugged when you think its the same as the old one check ur marks... That way u dont have to open it..

[@hoverglass258]

I just got this job done in about 5 hours thanks to this video. That may seem like a long time to some but I’m very pleased I was able to get it done for 50 bucks instead of 1500 at the dealership. Thank you sir!

[@Wynn96]

First iff, sincerely thank you for this video. Fantastic instructions. If it helps anybody else, I am finishing this on a Ford Flex. I had to remove the small piece of trim approx 1.5"x4" to the left of the steering wheel (gently pries out). Also I had to remove the long trim piece on the right the same way to get to 2 7mm screws for the console trim. (I just popped a few tabs on this one and didn't actually remove it entirely). I also had to use my dremel and trim the plastic vent hose behind the instrument cluster to gain access to the 3 bolts that hold in the controller. I don't see how the repair could have been done without trimming the plastic vent pipe. This repair was a major pain- I'll be all in about 3 hours.

[@toddjohnson450]

Is this basically the same design on a Ford edge 2015 with the same problem

[@burn31]

Not 100% sure the design is the same.

[@Senanalqoshnaya1820]

How about 16 explorer ?

[@billk8780]

What really frosts my cupcake is I currently have a 2015 Explorer which has this problem. I also had another Explorer in the past which had the same malady! My guess is FORD saves 2-cents by using plastic in highly stressed actuator components which should be metal.

[@jmpmusic-ltd]

Thanks @burn31. FYI to some here, before pulling actuator. I got stuck on last of the 3 5/15ths and couldn't handle the 90 angle. Had to move my Explorer to another spot for better light. When I started up the vehicle, and all detached Speedometer and other, no dashboard lights, but all the fans were zoooming power, even the dashboard panels that weren't working previously. All heat though. So i temporarily reconnected speedometer and other electric connection, all hanging before full reinstall, and low and behold, all panel fans were working. Switched on A/C and full fan power on all panels was back on. Go figure. Maybe simply disconnecting all those electronics caused a mysterious reset system wide, and gave me back those vents above sync media panel. No actuator needed. TG. Bought this 2015 XLT 3.5 with 23k miles in 2018 and made no sense back then after that min mileage something like this part would have gone out. Thanks so much. : )

[@rumpelstiltskin2454]

Thanks for the great video. Been working on these things for many many years and your video is superb. Very detailed video! Your tips tools and tricks were top notch advice. Not much out there on mode door actuator replacement. Thanks again I appreciate it

[@TATOOVIDS]

I have a 2017 Ford explorer XLT...my car is doing the same thing only blowing out the vents....is this the same procedure for the repair

[@Cokie907]

“Not a hard job…” LOL Almost anything under a dashboard is a hard job. I’ve done this repair and it is a very hard job not because it’s complex but because there is so little room to work. Better than paying a Ford dealer $2500 though. 😉

[@johngaber8451]

My 2015 Taurus SEL looks different when you take the instrument cluster off. No room between the metal housing and air vent…Ugg. From underneath seems impossible. Any thoughts about going in from the center console?

[@larrycanepa]

Just did it and got it to work. Couple of things/observations. You're pretty much f'd if you drop the screws at all. I lost 2 of the actuator screws and 1 of the instrument cluster screws. I had 1 similar screw to the actuator screws so my actuator only has the front top and bottom in it now. Oh well. The red plastic clip broke when I was trying to put it back on the wiring clip as well. But otherwise, it went pretty smooth. Took me about 2 1/2 hrs. Thanks for the video!!

[@1yachtcarpenter]

Hey thanks for posting this. I get all the air coming from the vents but no hot air, no defrost even though it's on high. Could this be my problem or another actuator on the pass side?

[@devenharmon963]

Noooo, this doesn't apply to a 2010 Explorer? Does anyone else know if you can get to the vent actuator this way for a 2010 as well, or if you have to go through the dash?

[@chrissalinas1902]

A pointer in aligning the gear!!! Plug the actuator back in and turn your car and ac on and should line itself up! Any pointers to help with this tedious job. I wish I saw this before doing this job! Took me 3 hours just to get it out. Saw this video and went straight to Menards and used your method and saved me a lot of time and struggle.

[@MM-hf7pd]

Hi Burn, Thank you for your great videos. I have an issue with my 2013 XLT Ford Explorer, the front one is fine but the rear one is not blowing out of the vents, I can hear the air flow but nothing coming out, all controls are working fine, I think there is a block some where. kindly guide me to solve it out. Thank you

[@Jonny-di1fw]

This great to see where it's at and if I could actually fix mine. I just got back from a 8 month long work trip and found out that mine is stuck on the dash vents and won't switch. I don't want to fork up $1400 or so. Thank you for this!