Ford Flathead STILL Not Running Right! 1937 Ford Taildragger

[@matthewsmith6486]

I have a crap style distributer in my 40 Ford. I used the Van Pelt method of setting the timing using the 6" scale. Worked good. I had a lot of trouble with this car when I first got it. It had been converted to 12 volts but I couldn't get it to drive around the block. Eventually I pulled the ballast resistor off the fire wall and it fell in 2 pieces! I replaced that and it's been running great since! I have faith you'll figure yours out too! And it'll probably be something simple.

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I'm going to be taking the distributor to a guy with a KR Wilson machine to try and dial it in. I'm sure we can figure it out eventually. I just need to move on right now to some other projects.

[@matthewsmith6486]

@@QuickSpeedShop Ha ha! I get it. That's why a lot of us have more than one car! PS: Hang tuff, I very much enjoy watching your videos, keep up the great work!

[@QuickSpeedShop]

Thank you, I appreciate it!

[@morgandollar5806]

Keep positive to have 6V for the '37. Anxious to see how compression test results are. Hang in there!

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I'm going to try that next.

[@jm-xy6xh]

my 37 coupe has a rebuilt 60 hp, high compression heads and some other things. I added a mallory dist. and it ran like crap. I had a bad spark plug wire - brand new that I made. Grabbed another new wire to make a replacement and that wire was open also. You might want to measure the resistance in your wires. I had to add a copper wire pointer and mark the crank pulley so I could get TDC and adjust correct timing. Still ran like crap. Did compression test and had zero on 2 cylinders and 50 on another. Took off intake and on 2 cylinders half of the split valve guide had slid up out of keeper.... I dont recall if your engine ever ran good - if not you might want to check compression. Good luck!

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I'm going to check the compression next and go from there. It's my first flathead and really being difficult.

[@Raydawg]

I understand the frustration. I agree move on to the next project and clear your head and just maybe the answer will come to you. be patient you got this. Thanks for the video

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I'm going to keep tinkering, but have to move on to something else. No time to get bogged down any longer with this car right now.

[@IowaMercMan]

I was having some weird timing / skipping issues in my 8BA. I talked to Jim Linder (GMCBubba on the HAMB) about it, and he told me to go buy a Bosch coil. I told him my coil tested fine and he said do it anyway. My problem went away with the new coil. Hard to believe with no other data to back it up , but it’s true. (The old coil was a new Pertronix coil)

[@StephenSmith-vn7mg]

IowaMercMan what Bosch coil did Bubba recommend? And is your 8ba still 6v or is it 12v, mine is still 6v with points still, but I need a new coil mine is getting weak after about 10 to 15 minutes of running. Thanks

[@IowaMercMan]

@@StephenSmith-vn7mg it’s a 12 volt coil. I did not search but I assume they have a 6V coil, maybe look for a vintage VW coil? I bought Part number Bosch 00012/9220081083 OEM Ignition Coil. I’m also running Jim Linder’s mechanical advance distributor on my 8BA (it’s a 1BA but everyone calls the late v8 “8BA”).

[@StephenSmith-vn7mg]

@@IowaMercMan thank you.

[@ralphreuben1386]

Vacuum gauge,dwell meter on the coil lead,take the time to set up a TDC pointer for a timing light separately powered via 12v neg,I would pull the valve chess intake and check for vacuum leaks.How sound is the primary ignition power by the time it gets to points?Compression,vacuum,fuel pressure?maybe over pressured,I never heard your electric pump stop?perhaps start it up in the dark,see what you see around leads? All good fun.will be a great car once sorted,hopefully soon

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I'm going to check compression and go from there. I don't have a dwell meter. The fuel pump is supposed to be a low pressure pump specifically for this application, although I don't have a pressure gauge to check it. I like the idea of the timing light on a separate battery.

[@IowaMercMan]

Good advice. The vacuum gauge should answer the vacuum leak question. I also will spray carb cleaner near suspected vacuum leak places, like the intake, throttle rod on the carb, etc. if you have a vacuum leak the engine will idle faster, not immediately so take your time .

[@QuickSpeedShop]

Well aware of vacuum leaks and how to find them. Spent years driving American Motors cars with miles of vacuum hoses.

[@IowaMercMan]

You mentioned going to Pertronix…. Electronic ignition requires a clean power source and a generator can’t provide it. If you go Pertronix you gotta go alternator. I agree that power quality to the points may be your issue right now. BTW you have some pretty great Flathead dizzy guys up there in NY, if you can take yours to someone who knows their way around a Sun machine. Have you heard of Charlie Schwendler in Orchard Park NY, he’s all over FordBarn. He’s also great with carbs

[@QuickSpeedShop]

Actually I just had a guy from Orchard Park call me and we're going to take my distributor to Charlie and get it dialed in.

[@tdeje]

I hate stuff like that, But you'll get it !

[@QuickSpeedShop]

Still working on it!

[@davidwildridge8080]

I was going to suggest pulling each spark plug wire to verify any change while running. Spark at each cylinder. I am not familiar with dual points dizzy. Confirm gap. Possibly timing could be off. For the hell of it shut fuel off and check compression. Btw beautiful car.

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I've gapped the points twice. There is a mechanical timing adjustment to the dist. It usually needs to be setup on a machine, but it can be set by eye too. I think I am going to do a compression check.

[@charlesbraun9636]

Hang in there Josh. I know what its like to through money at a project and still cant drive it. Once you check compression check fuel pressure before ignition this way it costs you more time than money.

[@QuickSpeedShop]

Going to check fuel pressure (maybe too high) and just connected with a guy that is going to help me time distributor and rebuild generator.

[@smg3646]

check your manifold vacuum .If the gauge flutters you have a leaking intake valve. Sounds like you have 2 spark wires crossed The engine should run smoother than it is, even with a dead cylinder.

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I need to check vacuum. Wires not crossed, double checked them. Car ran good on all 8 for a drive around the block a couple of weeks ago, then fired it up a few days later and ran like crap without changing anything.

[@bryanstruble8927]

Have you polarized the regulator? Some times when you put a new battery or anything to do with the regulator you need to polarize it. Just make sure you find out how to polarize it. Some 6volt systems have to be done a certain way or you'll fry the regulator.

[@QuickSpeedShop]

This generator doesn't have a regulator. It's an early design with just a voltage cutout. I changed that and still not charging. Car has always been positive ground.

[@tsees36]

Hey Josh frustrating as a 'B'. My approach has been to go back to basics. Compression check, wire conductivity test, firing order and plug testing, you know the drill. Distributor position for proper timing, and your carb. Is it USA reliable. Step by step troubleshooting

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I'm going to check the compression next. All other parts are new, but that doesn't mean they work.

[@robertunderwood6011]

Sounds like a valve hanging up a little kind of common

[@philreid1939]

I know Im late responding, timing is off, also next time buy a 8v battery, turns my 39 over faster to start, I also had generator rebuilt, that fixed my problem;

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I'm going to switch to 12v, ready to run crab dist and alternator in the spring.

[@harrycatrell1471]

Thanks for sharing, Josh! Driveability issues can be very frustrating, for sure...especially when dealing with stuff that's ancient technology! What did your compression test reveal? It looked like you were pulling the plug wires off of #5 and #6 ... were those the "dead" cylinders? I would want to know if the cylinders that are "missing" were together in the firing order (ign problem) or together in the block (mechanical problem). 'Looking forward to the next adventure! Enjoy! Be safe! Bro Harry

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I haven't done the test yet. I'm so frustrated and bogged down with it that I have moved onto other things.

[@mark98070]

Frustrating indeed! seems to smooth out pretty well off idle though. Higher heat range plugs might keep them from fouling. Did you put a timing light on it? Probably the reason why many hotrod's were engine swapped to something more modern.

[@QuickSpeedShop]

It's missing all the time no matter what the rpm. The plugs are currently out of stock everywhere I looked. They are brand new, but got fouled up. I wire wheeled them a couple of times. I need to try and set the initial dist timing. Everything on these old flatheads is different from modern engines.

[@waynespyker5731]

What kind of spark plug wires carbon or solid?

[@QuickSpeedShop]

They are Stromberg E-Fire plugs made for flatheads. They are spiral core.

[@andone555]

Gotta go 12v neg grd, mopar/gm hei mods internal crab, 12v generator. 3psi fuel with inline return, and you'll have a daily driver.

[@erikwilson9498]

did you ever figure it out ????

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I'm switching the car over to 12v and electric ignition this spring

[@keithhill9138]

I don’t know, but it seems as if it’s a fuel problem.

[@QuickSpeedShop]

I'm going to check fuel pressure to make sure it's at the correct 2 psi.

[@daleborgen6161]

Your points need to be set at .019 thousands or it well not run right I have a 46 ford

[@oldsilkhat7893]

Can I come out and give you a hand?

[@QuickSpeedShop]

Yes. Maybe this weekend if you want. You got a dwell meter?

[@oldsilkhat7893]

@@QuickSpeedShop no, but I did stay at a holiday Inn express last night.