Ford Quick Tips: #11 Freeing Rusted On Brake Lines

In this video I go over the different methods to free rusted brake lines if the rust penetrant trick is not working. Two methods are shown, take your pick.
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[@hudsonriverlee]

Loved this video. I cannot believe my luck today to Stumble upon this method. I am faced with this exact, literally, exact situation. I am going to choose to purchase a new wheel cylinder. Because I know the bleeder screw will will round over and make the situation worse.

[@alb12345672]

I am in the salt belt and I take off flex hoses that way all the time. Take the caliper bolt out and twist off the brake hose. Then I replace. I usually count turns. Once the fitting started turning with the wrench and i though it was free from rust but the tube ended up twisting and snapping inside the fitting. At least it was front left and there was a very close premade metric tube. Got lucky. Can't win em all...

[@MultiRobjackson]

You helped with my project! Thanks much! Thumbs up, FordTechMakuloco! It wasn't a Ford, but worked on a GMC Safari, 1988. The great thing about your tip, once i got the the cylinder turned just a bit, the flare was just a little bit separate from the bottom of the inlet. And broken from that adhesion from the the two points. So then the nut could be turned. So, don't give up if you think you have to turn the cylinder a full 360, you don't, just a little and it will be worked loose by going back and forth. I also used heat.

[@tonytrotta9322]

You could also try a little sand paper to sand gently at the brake line/end of the nut to clear the rust - then use PB Blaster. That is why the nut is locked/rusted to the brake line.

[@Anthony_in_Bloomington_Indiana]

Sweet! This is the problem I am facing with removing the power steering pump on my 2004 Toyota Corolla. There is a metal hose, then a flare nut in the pump. It has been a battle so far, and this is the last thing I need to remove to free the pump. I bought a propane torch last night. It turned out to be a 2 and a half hour bicycle ride! And I pedaled home in the dark. There is precious little room to work around the pump. I remember my dad's Ford Fairmont. That engine had acres of space around it! Every part was easy to get to, except for the transmission. Why don't engineers give weekend mechanics and pro mechanics a little extra room to swing a ratchet? Ha ha, I laughed at the super dramatic music at the beginning! I mean this as a compliment. I like your playful sense of theater and your bravado. Well bowled, Sir!

[@peterjuhasz5143]

Good job! Nice, clean thinking and calm style, that's how a good mechanic work patiently!

[@petekane2501]

Great tips about removing brake line& cylinder and working with it on the bench. Too bad for me I didn’t see this method last week as we just finished bending up some new lines to replace the damaged lines we couldn’t get off. All in all glad to replace lines on my 90 Honda civic

[@PSTLNC2]

Question for you, would heating the flare fitting on the brake hose line that connects to the axle vent on a 2005 Ford F150 be advisable? I have a new axle vent. New lines and hoses to both wheels. Also the new line that connects to the axle vent. I just don't want to break the long brake line going to the front of the truck.

[@theduder2617]

Do you have a video on the rusty fittings on ABS distribution blocks? Two input lines, 4 output lines. (obviously lol) The line sticking to the threaded fitting isn't the battle for me. Installing all new lines anyway. It's getting the threaded fittings to loosen without breaking them. (Do not have $450 for a new block)

[@rustyshackleferd2926]

my issue right now is that my bleeder screw is on the bottom when I do this method and when I try to make it upright the line just starts to bend

[@SamFisherK]

Apply some heat on it, sometimes it woks even with the lighter, but I use a heatgun. And trust me, it really helps

[@danielrobert7181]

Once the assembly is off the car and instead of using the torch (pretty destructive) method, would it be worth a try to unscrew the fitting nut with the line still stuck together and dump them in penetrating oil for a few hours ?

[@d.j.9961]

My money pit vehicle has needed everything & I just hung a cat back exhaust but, my cat flange has a black eye, the bolt hole is more of a C channel so, I hap hazzardly welded a nut to it & so far so good but, now I had a rear brake line fail & realize that the exhaust & heat shielding need to come down if I want to use any of the brake line clips & tuck the brake lines up into place, where salt & debris can have there way with them. In ways, keeping them down at a more accessable spot would make it easier to spray them off from time to time. heck, im wondering if spray painting them might make them last longer?

[@kentuckycowboy2]

Thank you , I wish I had caught this before I had to repair both sides of my 05 .

[@RJ-vb7gh]

Need some Ford tech advise here... So there was a pinhole in my epoxy coating on my 2003 Ford brake line... the line blew out... the rest of the line is like brand new. Do I need to remove the epoxy coating in order to double flair the line so I can do a proper splice? And if so what's the best way to remove the coating? I've done a lot of work on Fords, but most were from the early 1970's so this epoxy coating thing is new to me. Thanks!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Simply scrape it off with a razor or torch it, the coating melts right off.

[@RJ-vb7gh]

@@FordTechMakuloco Thank you very much for the quick reply. I like the coated brake line, but as I've never dealt with it before, I thought I'd ask someone who knows before I screw something up.... like I was about to use my trusty old single flair tool... which I found out isn't used any more on modern brake lines... Fords have changed since the Galaxys, Mavericks Mustangs and Pintos I used to work on.

[@Valde3333]

Most of the time I have done this line has ended up with about 180 decrees apart. I did use aftermarket parts. Better luck with OEM?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Valde3333 Yup no problems

[@wjackstl]

aahhhhhhh! I wish I would have seen this a few hours ago! I knew I was going to twist that stupid 3/16" line!!! great tip, thanks!

[@frankdad0n10]

Yea u know I broke my line

[@camcordernonsense5264]

Mine line, is so short it has nothing else holding and I can only pull it past the backer about half an inch. We've tried pb blast, propane, map. Still won't break free. I'm thinking next of using pure man child tears directly on the fitting. Then throwing all the tools across the yard into the neighbors yard. I think that'll work.

[@camcordernonsense5264]

Finally removed the cylinder and line. Replaced both. Good shape now.

[@berniceperry8898]

Wouldnt spray paint take care of the rust problem after the heat....

[@spelunkerd]

Good tips.

[@gordylocks]

Good video!!! Dang that rust is horrible where your at. I've only seen couple a vehicle's around here in Oregon like the one's you work on routinely. We do have vehicles with years of mud on em so when you hit bolts with impacts all the mud turns shop floor into dirt floor haha. Thanks for the "tip" videos, they are my favorite!!!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yeah it seems my tips video are popular, apply to more people.

[@gordylocks]

Well all ur videos are great!! Keep up awesome work

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thanks!

[@michaelszweda]

thats ok but also try an air hammer to vibrate the line loose that may work also

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Those methods are the best there is shy of an inductive clamp, I would never use an air hammer on these it would just chew it up and then twist the line like a pretzel easy plus I think most of these fittings are brass so even softer metal.

[@miketodd2965]

He's listening to K LOVE!!!

[@IntheBlood67]

Outstanding!

[@paulwright8500]

Nice one cheers fella!

[@4dirt2racer0]

it's a shame u have to actually show ppl this as a "trick" it seems like it should b common sense, ppl need to think a little less narrow, if that makes any sense they focus only on the single part their workin haha its cooled down basically *pulls line out n brake fluids so hot it's still steamin* lol wait till it cools then tell me how good that line moves... lol i absolutely love and hate that coating it really is nice for the safety but God dam when it cools its a hardish gummy mess omg no thank u iv obviously had bad luck with brake lines... I miss workin on air brakes n trucks... it's bigger but simpler. n pays real good :p especially road calls omg