Ford Quick Tips: #2 Hose Clamps & Coolant Leaks

In this video I show just how important it is to align the hose clamp back to the same imprint to avoid new coolant leaks.
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[@malebolgue]

Thank you for the tip. I almost killed myself unlocking one of these clamps.

[@stephen579]

The screw-type ( jubilee) clamps are much easier to use and can be adjusted to the tightness you require, I always use a thin strip of rubber between the clamp and the hose to make sure the clamp doesn't cut into the hose, I have a leak at the moment on the hose to the thermostat housing and it has one of those constant pressure spring clamps and despite repositioning it still leaks.

[@wiseguy0774]

Have definitely had this issue with leaks after reassembling. Great tip thanks. When reinstalling the ones that have the tab that locks them open, curious to know the proper way to release them from the locked position.

[@JN-mk2fh]

Also, cranking on a worm drive clamp on a plastic radiator fitting will cause a crack and eventual leak. Tension clamps only on plastic radiator fittings.

[@baddrivercam]

Absolutely

[@timgiles9413]

I like to use the constant tension clamps on any hose that changes temperature, like coolant.

[@subtropictime6212]

Thanks for this video and all your videos. This one helped me finish up the radiator R&R on my late model Ford truck, so I could be back on the road for work today! Radiator #3 was the charm. Two radiators were broken in shipping from RA last week. Horrible experience. Got #3 locally at the 'Zone, and put in in yesterday. Not a drop of coolant was shed. I Was not aware of this little bit of mechanical nuance, the lining up of the cutouts with the impressions on the hose. Mine have the original factory clamps and hoses, tapered triangular cutouts with a small cross piece, that's the key to the puzzle, only one way it can go back on, if you know!!! The constant tension clamps work very well overall, very practical from assembly line to bottom line. They must lose tension over time but I haven't run into that yet but I see some folks have issues. I have had issues with worm screw style, the usual things to watch out for. I prefer these. Keep on Truckin'

[@joshuamoore24_7]

A plumbing tool torque nut driver that is made for the worm clamps might be a good tool to use on the worm style clamps without over tightening them. Especially on plastic radiator fittings. The tool seems to hold back huge loads of water pressure on plumbing under ground dwv test with a 10' stack all filled with water.

[@invertedpolarity6890]

You nailed it when you said manufacturers use constant tension clamps because they are quick. But they are awful to work with and don't seal very well in a lot of cases. Screw clamps are okay. I think the best clamps are the ear-type of constant tension clamps that a lot of European car makers use.

[@joshuamoore24_7]

I think the worm screw clamps are better!

[@unknownip6741]

Me too but apparently they dont hadle the changing temps causing them to loosen

[@Brad11451]

Even though I changed both hoses thermostat and reservoir during my flush....that's a great tip for any of those clamps..

[@justhes]

Dodge loves using them too, and also putting the prongs of the clamp in a position where almost no tool can get to it.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

yep you can tell most of this was put together when the car was all apart otherwise the clamp locations don't make sense.

[@1953qwert]

If this helps,The stock radiator hose clamps for mustang 94-98 are Rotor Clip CBT-47 available from McMaster Carr part number 7329K18. If a smaller one is needed on some V6 engine side is CBT-46. Hard to find but used on polaris snow mobiles. You must put them back on hose in the same grooves or they will leak. On a fresh hose this will not matter. Mc Master carr next sizes down is equal to CBT-44 or CBT-42.

Dodge Ram leak. Yep. OE clamp is shot. It looks like somone let their pet lion chew on it. I suppose its easier manage them with hose clamp pliers. Upper hose had a small leak and repositioning did not work. I replaced it with a stainless t-bolt type. Installed/sealed easily with no pinching, as worm gear clamps do on some hoses. Old video was useful. Thanks.

[@nwsights6301]

LOL I know right

[@will54981]

Try putting a clamp back on a lower coolant hose on a dodge charger like I'm doing now. You'll have a few dents in the vehicle that weren't there before

[@avibank]

Thank you for sharing this! I found a leak (after a lot of searching) in the same place as you. I bought an entire coolant hose manifold replacement because I thought the pipes had probably degraded over ±10 years. But I'm betting the mechanic just didn't know about the grooves when he re-connected the hose (after replacing the water pump which shattered while on the freeway :/).

[@AhairlessElk]

Been dealing with an upper radiator hose that won't stop dripping. I now have 2 worm clamps on that bad boy. Hopefully it stops

[@micahobaca]

How would you cut one of these off with out draining the radiator hose and removing it.

[@verinb9]

"Give this man a beer!" 🍻 (Stone Cold voice)

[@iph0ne27]

My understanding is using these stock clamps helps with heat maybe let the car run for awhile. There will be an imprint eventually.

[@user-go9rf3nk1l]

I am dealing with a leak between the radiator outlet and this plastic elbow that is connected to the upper radiator hose on a 2009 Focus 2.0L SES. Stepdaughter just bought the car, so I don't know if the leaking one was OEM or not ? But replaced with a Gates, only option that day, it also leaks. Ordered a Motorcraft to try next. But this design is poor in my opinion and I don't really see how it stays in place. Any advice is greatly appreciated

[@bobcounihan5042]

Where can we buy new spring style clamps that will fit Ford 1 1/2 inch clamps?

[@wyattandwill12]

I converted my Jeep 4.0 in my XJ to worm gear clamps and I’m having issues with a coolant leak - however, in the 10 minutes I have myself this morning (not driving the vehicle yet) I tightened them with a socket instead of a screwdriver and it’s made a great difference, although the leak is still there. I can try tightening it more tomorrow. I have a second clamp on that’s not in the path of the stock clamp so it has the potential to be a great reinforcement for fail spots in the clamp near where the original was. I eventually need to change the hose anyways because someone else installed a clamp where it’s rubbed the radiator hose and it may eventually split open.

[@johnsmith-uh1gs]

Thanks for the video. Just my 2 cents here. The original Corbin style hose clamp attached to the large radiator hose can be replaced by the worm type clamp shown later in the video. The only problem with worm type clamps is they usually require retightening later and that's ok if the clamp is readily accessible as in the case of an upper radiator hose. If you are replacing coolant hoses that run under the plenum or are buried somewhere and a great deal of parts removal was required to get to them, then stick with the clamp style you see on the radiator hose in this video. This clamp style is also known as a constant tension hose clamp. They contract and expand. Best to use on hoses you don't want to revisit after a big repair is made.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

john smith Yup constant tension clamps is what they are and I prefer them over anything else as long as they don't have cracking issues like the 2006 explorers.

[@iggynub]

Worm drives are constant tension, which is a great way to damage a hose as it expands and contracts constantly with use.

[@jett-rampartflyer2852]

Tips still working in 2022, thanks!

[@Patrick-yh5yd]

What about the ford clamps that you cannot use a pair of pliers

[@anonmous5916]

I hate those clamps with a passion. I replaced a lower radiator hose yesterday and tried to reuse them but due to tight position I just said F it and put worm clamps.

[@dark12ain]

Ok for the first clamp you need like some pliers or some to squeeze them open, the second set of clamps he showed, you need a screw driver or flat head to tighten it up

[@tspight3]

At the right moment 😂 Preciate it mann

[@lazarooconde1884]

Dear Makuloco: I have an Expedition Limited 2008 5.4 L I noticed that I have a minor leak coming from the lower hose of the coolant reservoir. How difficult is replace it? Do you have any video related to this and where I can get this hose? Thank You.

[@JS-xr9ri]

What if you haven’t messed with the clamp for two years yet there is a minimal leak, should I still replace the hose & clamp? The clamp looks good and tight, and the hose looks to be in good shape. Idk why it would be leaking if everything thing still looks good.

[@burkejones8277]

I think that is my problem. However, I got pissed off and stopped for the day. I will go back tomorrow. Thanks!!

[@johngutierrez6637]

I literally just had experienced my car leak coolant and I think it was because I tried bring the hose tighter of the thermostat on my Dodge Charger and didn’t tighten it in the same mark it had before so it leaked a bunch of coolant, what should I do?? I had my car on for awhile I left it warming up in my garage and I got back and seen coolant all on the floor, the hose is new, it never had any problems like that before I did that so I hope this is it I left the hood open I’ve never had anything like that happen my heart almost dropped

[@UserUser14880]

@fordtechmakuloco really need a video on 2007 Expedition 5.4 3v Coolant Temp Sender replacement. There is none on yt. No diagrams on internet. I purchased the part and have no idea where it goes. Ford Dealer told me its a 5.2 Labor job. So it must be buried. If u have a vid on this already. Please show link.

[@LucyLusmommy]

Trim the hose back just past the marks. (If there's enough hose to do so.)

[@OldSchoolNoe]

The HPS hoses came with worm-drive clamps and they suggest I torque them down to 20 inch pounds, but this reminds me of spark plugs, snug should be ok.

[@AcidxAnarchy]

So does that mean I shouldn't reuse spring clamps from the old hose on a new one?

[@thechileacademy4800]

Mine is really rusted on my lower radiator hose for my 2015 rogue. Think I could safely reuse it or just buy a new worm drive clamp?

[@georgeparker555]

My lower radiator hose started leaking a little to wear it connects to the thermostat housing. It's been 10 degrees F and below. I bought new hoses since they're cheap hopefully that fixes the issue. The clamps seem to have good tension.

[@AAELSHD]

So helpful tip, thanks man.

[@anastasiachandler1407]

Thank you sir,very informative.

[@MrRexquando]

Most people say not to use the worm drive clamps because of the sharp edges and most people over-tighten them. What kind of pliers do you use to remove these? I have found almost every pliers I have doesn't have a ratio to handle opening big enough then closing far enough to remove these easily.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

On the big clamps I use a 422 series channel locks, on the smaller heater hose clamps I use a regular pair of slip joint pliers series 528 that is channel lock brand also.

[@stuartbear922]

They sell a special tool to remove them. It works well and is cheap.

[@crazypayz9362]

You should only use these clamps as they allow for pipe expansion

[@fleckx]

This is probably why my lower radiator hose that I chose not to replace has a bit of a leak. Everything seems fine except these aren't lined up. Problem is, the clips were pointing downward and it was a pain in the ass to unclip it from underneath the damned hose. I'm just gonna replace the hose and use a worm drive (already have both on hand, just gonna run it as is for now).

[@delariousgran2104]

What's that piece called that the radiator hose is connected to?Mine is cracked and coolant leaking through causing my car to overheat?

[@coolcollective1805]

Nice clear and helpful thanks

[@hectoralvarado2258]

From heater sockets on firewall

[@kasumiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin]

You're a lifesaver

[@rezzinbrainz]

Any advice for a 2003 mazda protege5 heater hose replacement? It looks very hard to access.

[@IIBLaCKBeaRDII]

can anyone tell me why I try and replace my lower radiator hose and the portion that goes onto the radiator fits snug and fine and the portion of the hose that connects to the other side is too big? shouldn't both sides of the hose be the same? why would it need one side to be smaller????? I'm so confused and of course I threw away my old hose to see if this one is odd.

[@bernardtav5194]

Do you have any Information or videos on turbo coolant leak and or repairs on the ecoboost f150?

[@matthew53690]

Do you have any tips or videos on replacong a lower hose on an 08 focus? The part that goes on the waterpump looks like a nightmare to get to

[@Dbf1339]

Ok that's why I just replaced a different hose and now the upper won't stop dripping and causing overheating I'm not able to see enough to follow the imprint. I'll just get another hose it was fine until I removed it and put it back on.

[@bosanacttcallofdutymobile]

Is ot dificul to change the intercooler pipe on a ford focus 1.6 66 kw tdci

[@llbadboy1]

I need your help because my upper hose be leaking water and air pressure

[@iHustleChicago]

So helpful

[@justinreynaud1598]

where can you order more of those clamps? mine broke

[@levimartin3802]

Help, my hose keeps popping off and rips. Does anyone know why this is happening? There shouldn’t be enough pressure for this to happen right?

[@danielnolan1920]

I had a lower coolant hose leak and i adjusted the hose and put the clamp back on but did not put the clamp back on the groves since they were on the edge of the hose end. It started leaking again today and badly. What can I do to fix this once and for all. I would not like to buy a new hose since they are $84.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Daniel Nolan Use a regular worm drive clamp instead.

[@DZ-cb2bg]

on top of that piece that tube goes in there is a hose that goes on top of that and goes to recovery tanl does anyone know the name of that tube???

[@LCdaniel5]

my car has the 2nd style but it still leaking antifreeze what can i do???

[@raejudah]

What's the name of the part that's right above your finger that hose connected to the water tank?

[@raejudah]

It's the silver curve part that sit on the top of the thermostat housing

[@pabloescobar4980]

Was there a bit of steam comin out ?

[@zroscigno]

Im considering getting a 2011 Lincoln MKZ and im looking around at reliability and repair costs and what not down the road for the car and I know its not really a common problem with the 3.5 V6's but I am seeing that costs to replace a water pump are insane! Am I finding false info or did ford like hide the water pump and it does cost around $1,600 for a water pump job? Thanks

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Water pump job on a 3.5 is hidden inside the timing cover yes. I have done maybe two before and both were on the Ford Edge, we generally don't see that failure on the mkz. The mkz are actually very reliable as they are just a fancy fusion. I think the latest thing we have had to deal with on them is the brake lights staying on independent of each other even that is pretty expensive too.

[@zroscigno]

Ah thanks! So I generally shouldn't be too concerned with big issues like that? We have had quite a few ford products that we have loved. Most recent was a 2003 Lincoln Aviator. Sweet truck! Since the aviator I have wanted another lincoln and really like the MKZ and have seen that JD power rates it and the fusion pretty high for the long term run!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

zroscigno Yep I would agree with their rating for sure.

[@DWattstubadawg]

I have a leak from the back of it how do I fix that?

[@mattemen36]

Mines won't tighten for some reason it's loose the clamp won't tighten.

[@jeogriffith]

Can you make a video showing how to unclip these type of clips

[@stuartbear922]

They sell a special tool. Pretty cheap.

[@mercpindi5522]

I have same issue. It was good until mechanic touched it then it started leaking. Now I bought a new hose and clamps 😡

[@doodooheadguy]

Do you have experience with the coolant hose spring clamps that lock open found on the 2013 Ford Fusion 2.5 naturally aspirated(specifically the lower radiator hose to thermostat housing). When squeezed open completely they lock open which is handy but getting them to release in place again is difficult. I was wondering if there is a special tool or technique I’m not aware of other than conventional spring clamp pliers?

[@NodakSavage]

How the hell do you unlock these clamps. I'm doing my crown Vic and I can't get the clamp to tighten, it's locked wide open

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+NoDak Savage You have to squeeze them and twist so they pop out. I also have squeezed them with a pliers let go fast so it slips off and it will snap past the locking mechanism.

[@JesusGodHolySpirit3]

Savage its hard as hell with the wrong tools & just a standard ranch. Review this tool "vampliar" that this KZbinr Scotty Kimlmer spoke about because these hose clamps are the worst to deal with and remove.

[@strangerdanger1]

Thanks for the info this is exactly what I'm going through with my Jeep getting on my damn Nerves

[@jeffreykreft5442]

I have to be honest, I hate think dam clamps, I make it a habit to replace them with worm drive clamps, but I also only use the Gates brand stainless marine grade clamps, cost a little more, but they last forever, and have yet to strip one out. Have to be careful with these because you can diffinately crush the fitting, especially the plastic radiators.

[@freetibetpls]

Just change the hose

[@bubhub64]

Drippage!

[@user-js9xq1ps3s]

3.33 wasted minutes for the obvious solution...