Ford 8.8" 9.75" 10.25" Rear Differential Service: Fluid Change Procedure

In this video we go over a full fluid service on the rear differentials found in Ford vehicles.
These are the Tools and Parts I recommend:
Motorcraft 75W-140 Axle Fluid (3-4qts)-
amzn.to/2C9pKRu
2015 and Newer Expedition and F-150 Axle Fluid-
amzn.to/2BNFZbe
Motorcraft Friction Modifier-
amzn.to/2siDfin
Permatex Thread Sealant-
amzn.to/2Ehurio
Permatex Cover Sealant-
amzn.to/2skwQTN
Good Basic Torque Wrench-
amzn.to/2C8qBSE
Torque Specs:
Differential Cover Bolts 32ft lbs
Fill Plug 22ft lbs
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomoti...
Facebook:
/ bsgautomotive
Catch up with us on-
Facebook: / fordtechmakuloco
Twitter: / fordtechmak
Instagram: / fordtechmakuloco
My company KZbin Channel- BSG Automotive providing repair advice on makes and models other than Ford: / bsgautomotive1
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

These are the Tools and Parts I recommend: Motorcraft 75W-140 Axle Fluid (3-4qts)- amzn.to/2C9pKRu 2015 and Newer Expedition and F-150 Axle Fluid- amzn.to/2BNFZbe Motorcraft Friction Modifier- amzn.to/2siDfin Permatex Thread Sealant- amzn.to/2Ehurio Permatex Cover Sealant- amzn.to/2skwQTN Good Basic Torque Wrench- amzn.to/2C8qBSE

[@TRAVIS-L]

FordTechMakuloco when i had mine done they cleaned the inside of it with some kind of cleaner witch im thinking break cleaner

[@TRAVIS-L]

and do you half to add anything becides the fluid for freaction i have a 98 ford explorer 4.0 sohc eddie bauer 4.wd

[@nateo4760]

FordTechMakuloco how do you change the front differential fluid in a 2012 Ford f150 I can't seem to find a good way to get the cover off any advice would be greatly appreciated

[@TRAVIS-L]

T Web ok

[@JeffMageesr82]

FordTechMakuloco can you please make a video for a 13 f150 for front differential thanks

[@BryanMark-mw8sz]

You have helped me keep my 2004 5.4 Triton FX4 on the road and running strong for 20 years now, we just broke 800,000 miles and it shocks people to find out how long this truck is lasting. I cannot thank you enough.

[@marshalllove]

Wow that’s awesome! built Ford Tough! Mine is pushing 250k and still running strong.

[@loveracing1988]

How many rebuilds?

[@ryanvanscoder7045]

This is a lie

[@Fr0sty4242]

❤

[@stephenbloom2545]

That’s awesome! I’ve got a 2011 f150 3.5 ecoboost with 490,000 all original. Maintenance is the key.

[@nickcove7355]

Damn dude. That’s the most thorough rear end fluid swap I’ve ever seen.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thanks!

[@brucejones2354]

This is what it takes to do the job right!

[@superhandyman4597]

@Iron *Fe* no winter time your oil isnt as thick, 30weight is quite a bit to be off by. check me out

[@tybell8899]

Wish he would have shown how he cleaned out the rear end and all the bearings.. There was a lot of area that didn't get wiped down.. More questions now!?

[@robnation2475]

That's what she said

[@davevincent5024]

As an automotive instructor I really appreciate your videos and the simple common sense techniques that many people wouldn't think about or forget about, I just don't know when you find the time to do your videos, but thank you just the same

[@stevenmorris2293]

He’s gotta be there, so we have to also 😊

[@ominusspiritus5882]

My two cents: 1) take an earth magnet and stick it to the diff cover and put two bolts on it for easy reach. 2) When putting the diff cover back on I use two chopsticks (or you could use metal) through two holes line them up and diff slides right into place without sliding around. Grab a bolt off the magnet and tighten to hold.

[@mcmuskie2563]

Ahh naa

[@zww1016]

before commenting on this video i pondered it for quite some time, at least 5 minutes, while scrolling through hundreds of previous comments giggling uncontrollably all the while. what finally made me decide to publicly post was the fact that out of the 1.6k comments by other views, only a handful, less than 5, made a point to applaud you for upholding your professional demeanor during the tense moments of the refilling of the fluid. i also wanted to add that those fart noises emanating from that bottle were second to none movie grade sounds. if your mechanical career doesn’t work i’m sure you would have no trouble finding a role in Hollywood. spot on my friend, spot on.

[@andrewedds4386]

These simple maintance jobs videos are the best. Rountine maintance that most people never think twice about. Love this channel. Really helps me with my 2005 4.6L 4x4 f150

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thank you for those kind words!

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

@M. Sami Sometimes I wish I had the 4.6L instead.

[@BustinCasts]

With Brian around and his extensive library of videos, my 5.4 3 valve doesn’t worry me a bit. Great engines, just have to care for them and know the short comings. 5W-30 synthetic w/ FL820S and changed every 4K is a good start.

[@sliedogg]

@@BustinCasts what is fl820s?

[@BustinCasts]

Dave K. The part number for the Ford engine oil filter for my 5.4L 3 valve.

[@surg9029]

Another tip. Before draining the oil from the transmission, transfer case, or differential make sure the fill plug comes loose. Nothing worse than draining something and then not being able refill it. On fords the sensor on the top of the differential for the ABS can be removed to fill it, but you won’t know if it’s filled to the right level.

[@nofortunatesonII]

If it is completely drained, just look up how much it holds and add that amount.

[@TheTruth27536]

One thing I do with my differential cover when putting it back on is that I use a 2 inch long stud (or threaded rod) without the head (with the same thread size as the cover bolts) and screw one of these studs in on each side of the differential. Then when I install the cap back on with the RTV, I just use those studs to guide the cover on. Then I install a few bolts and remove those studs and move on with the rest of the install. This is what I came up with to idiot-proof my own installation.

[@azr2d1]

I usually already stick a bolt in the cover on the top, then put the cover back on a screw in the bolt.

[@rwm1000]

Playtawin I do the same thing. I have a selection of bolts (length and size) with the heads cut off and I use I thin cutoff wheel and cut a groove in them so if I have one kinda tight I can use a regular screwdriver. I’m a old Ag mechanic so pans, water pumps etc are a lot heaver.

[@TheTruth27536]

That is an excellent idea with the thin cutoff wheel!

[@jimo680]

Wow. Thanks! Thats a great I-proof solution for me...I don't have a lift in my crappy garage, and doing this lying underneath has its challenges as I get older. Any little trick helps, and the 2" threaded rod is a good one...thanks for posting that!

[@jacksonpuckett6115]

This method of creating line up studs has been around forever and is commonly used in the field for installing transmissions and whatever else. In your case I guess rear diff. covers

[@avoidtheherd7066]

If the plug is NPT(national pipe taper) and the plug in your truck's differential is damaged, a suitable substitute can be found at any hardware/plumbing store. Home Depot, Lowe's Depot, wherever. You get a square protruding lug to put a wrench on, instead of the square depression to put the socket drive handle in. If you get one and use it for your truck, that makes you a plumber and a mechanic. : )

[@toodlican]

I really appreciate the details you don't skip over. So many videos just show edited videos with no details. I just wanted to say thanks for the amazing effort and clear instructions. Iam pretty new to trying my own repair work. 4 thumbs up two from me and two from the wife

[@williamcharles9480]

FTM, I was getting ready to change the lube in the 8.8 in my 93 F-150 and just happened to check your channel out. Sure enough you had important info on the gear lube service notice. I wouldn't have known if it wasn't for you. I've been following your channel for years now and I must admit that you're the most trusted Ford repair tech on KZbin in my opinion. Your delivery of information and instruction never leaves anything to question. You absolutely cover it all. I haven't written to you in quite a while and I hope that you've gotten yourself out from under the incompetence of certain service writers and dealership politics. It appears that you may have made some adjustments. I hope that they're satisfactory for you because you're way above all of that kind of BS and deserve much better. You're performing a very time consuming service in making and editing these excellent videos and your teaching skills are excellent. All that I can say is that from my end everything is much appreciated. What you do for the DIY guy that's struggling to keep his head above water is a great thing. You are on my list of good people.

[@displayfireworks1]

It is the details and terminology to describe what you are doing that makes it enjoyable for me to watch your videos. You should network with the local trade schools to send students to your shop. You do a great job teaching. Keep the videos going .

[@davidbruce3633]

The "Norm Abram" of truck service

[@Jack-oj2ci]

I agree. That's what makes it so easy to learn from him....he articulates everything. He's an awesome teacher.

[@Chris-eh3du]

Brian may have mentioned this later in the video too, but my best tip would be: make sure you can crack and loosen the fill port before you drain the diff :)

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Never had a problem nor have I seen other techs at the shop so it just didn’t come up.

[@GatesRapes]

Use the ABS sensor port if needed

[@mandov5916]

Had a 98 f150 with 150k miles and I learned that the hard way. Had a hell of a time loosening the fill plug after I had already drained it

[@monelfunkawitz3966]

20:33 sounds like me after Taco Bell. On a side note, you are the only person I've ever seen that puts the care into doing this as I do. Can't tell you how many times I've seen people screw this up.

[@vinces8974]

That’s hilarious !!!

[@MrKnapppj18]

I ordered the Mag-Hytec gasket for the 8.8-12 bolt and it worked really well. No leaks at about 1000 miles post change. I am hopefully it’s reusable down the road as advertised. Changed at 60k and definitely needed it.

[@sherrellriddle779]

Unfortunately, there aren't many techs that put the TLC into a job like you do. Go to most dealerships for a rear end fluid change and they drain the fluid, put the cover back on, and slap more fluid in. They take 10 minutes, do a half-ass job and charge $400.

[@twobeer3316]

Yuuup, cause they work flat rate. If the work pays 1.5 hours and they get it done in 30 minutes, they still get paid for 1.5 hours. You also get charged for 1.5 hours, + parts...

[@toknowlj]

most shops will over charge and do as little as they possibly can to get you out the door [after taking your money] So yup best do it yourself

[@DeadlyNerotoxins]

@@LynxStarAuto Pumping and filling diff fluid may aswell be criminal! Just a half-assed job that dirties up the new fluid really quick. With the cost of diff oil its something that should be done right.

[@glasser2819]

@@DeadlyNerotoxins you think rear diff oil is expensive then... Benz blue ATF oil is $29/Qt + labor 😂

[@blainemcdonald6972]

When I did mine i even cleaned the diff cover sanded it lightly then primed/painted it.

[@DeadZone318]

I love the videos. FORD must hate the FREE KNOWLEDGE that you bestow upon all of us. My wallet thanks you!

[@glasser2819]

engineered failures is the new science: everything must go! 😉

[@rickattard2339]

I guarantee a ford dealer or most mechanics wont be this thorough!

[@Snookchaser007]

Never could understand why all makers don’t have a magnet drain bolt at lowest point and a fill bolt Toyota has had this for years and makes this a 15 min job

[@chadwick1084]

I doubt it the parts department is making a fortune

[@ginnawitters-evans5156]

@@Snookchaser007 I agree about magnetic drain plug but its still not a 15 minute job if you remove the pumpkin cover and do a complete clean out n reseal like he did.

[@chieft3357]

It's always nice to watch a job done the right way. I was in vehicle & aircraft maintenance for almost 50 yrs so I know. I started watching your videos when I bought my 2012 F-150. I sure did learn a lot. I'm sure others out there learn a lot also, so keep doing what your doing. I remember having customers watch me work on their cars and tell me how impressed they were with my work ethic. So, I'll tell you, you have a very good work ethic. I like it!!!!!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thanks!

[@Horriblebastad]

I prefer the 23/4¥ ADQ much easier, contingency 56/35¥ emeg nop.

[@GatesRapes]

If you've learned anything from these videos it's got to be Ford's engineering is severely lacking , buy a Tundra

[@Horriblebastad]

@@GatesRapes I swore by them at one time. They are inferior now. Engines, panels, running gear etc. Ask any mechanic who works on them. Ford transits are garbage now.

[@marshalllove]

I’m a GM tech and I’ve always been interested in aircraft and would be so cool to be able to work on them.

[@blainemcdonald6972]

When working on the floor of our garages like most of us do the one suggestion I found that worked for me was the removal of the spare tire tire. This gave me easy access to the rear differential without having to jack up the truck.

[@TheKevinhaeb]

Couldn’t agree more. Removing the spare takes an extra three minutes and saves lots of time and effort.

[@hoosierdaddy2468]

I love the attention to detail and thorough jobs you do. I wish I could find a local tech that cares enough to do a good job like that.

[@tsr7198]

No doubt!

[@MrOnemanop]

I find it amazing that you have enough energy to take the time and effort through your day to make a video (of this quality) detailing the process which most owners take for granted if they even think of it at all. Very informative and engaging. Thanks!

[@williamwhite9767]

I always use a gasket. The cost is about the same as RTV and there is no possility of leaks. I also use a piece of tygon tubing on the end of the bottle snout to aid in filling. the bottle can be emptied without an issue using the tube.

[@stuscolnik]

Why not a gasket?

[@jasonchenoweth5448]

Great video! And thank you very much for all that you teach. First time doing a rear diff. Had a mechanic buddy tell me what to do and knew i could knock it out.. but there's something about watching someone go through the steps to confirm things! My friend is very thorough as are you, so thanks to both of you. I don't know if it's mentioned( I stopped to make a comment) but... just a heads up. By using the wire wheel to clean both sides, your also "scuffing" the surfaces which gives the sealant something to bond to! You don't want super smooth surfaces! Otherwise the sealant has nothing to "grab" onto and you can break the seal. No point in doing all that work, just to have to tear it all apart and do it all over again! Thx again. Hope this helps

[@JoshDurston]

you're tips on cleanliness are pure gold. Better to do it right and clean, than blow the budget on expensive fluid and leave grit dirt in there.

[@RenoLaringo]

Never thought anyone with momentary acute aerophagia would go as far as editing an entire video on how to service a rear differential to blame it on an innocent oil can... That's what a call beeing creative ! Thanks for the video mate ! 😁

[@easytrips3448]

You're a tech who pays attention to detail, thanks for the tutorials. Thank you sir!

[@bjbeardse]

After the sound effects, he actually said splashback! GOD IM ROLLIN!!!!!

[@Silent_Shadow]

Splashback is the worst. Always flush often! LMAO

[@muncy2840]

Man I love your videos. I feel confident to do this maintenance the right way with no rookie mistakes. Thank you

[@JamesAgans]

I replaced two of the top fasteners with Stainless Steel studs. Makes alignment much easier. I also used a Felpro gasket, but now I have noticed a very small drip under the pumpkin. I guess I'm going to have to remove the cover again. I guess giving us a drain plug was too much to ask of Ford, just like the transmission. I replaced the transmission pan with one with a plug. I might try adding copper crush washers first. Yes, both surfaces were very clean.

[@claytonstruble7768]

I love to see pride and quality. Awesome job .

[@UncleSarkis]

Best explanation on this ever. You make it look fun to do maintenance on vehicles.

[@johnsayles2872]

Thanks man. I really like your videos. When I watch someone else’s compared to yours, you are much more thorough and educating. Great for us backyard mechanics.

[@robbiehobbs2009]

You are an outstanding mechanic, And have probably forgot more than I will ever know. Having said that, One thing I was taught to do some 30 years ago is to once you pop the cover is to jack up one side at a time just 6in. from level and allow axle tubes to drain for 10 min. each side. Just my 2 cents.

[@davidstuck2866]

i really like your videos. i spent my career as a motorcycle mechanic. one thing i did was keep a couple of long bolts or screws with the head cut off. so i could align covers and gaskets or sealer with very little movement.

[@davidbruce3633]

Soooo glad I found your channel. Your explanations and delivery are spot in. The "Norm Abram" of truck service !!!

[@markk3652]

Just an addition here, always be wary of metallic gear debris in the sump! I performed this service on our 2003 Durango 4x4, found out there is a magnet epoxied into the sump to hold onto metal to keep it from circulating. You guessed it, super sharp needle like gear piece went thru paper towel, nitrile glove, and deep into my index finger. Wow, that hurt. Took a while to dig it out, shaped like a cat's claw.

[@Silent_Shadow]

Metal slivers suck!

[@Jack-oj2ci]

Thanks for the warning. And sorry for your pain !

[@yamahabradley]

Great job. I would suggest while do the fluid change you check the differential breather is still there and venting properly and that you do a visual check of the axle seals as well.

[@retrodadstl]

I have worked on a f150 mustang fusion and edge and use these videos to help me for past few years now thanks for the help brother 👍

[@2003evodave]

This is the exact same method I’ve used for five decades except if a gasket is available I will put it on the axle to keep liquid sealant on the cover from sticking to the axle. This makes the next oil change much quicker and easier.

[@amandag735]

Anyone watching while on the toilet??? 🙋‍♂️

[@DangerousDaedric]

🙋🏻‍♂️

[@leog6742]

And I thought the fart noises came from the video 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@lemons4lana]

best place to watch 👍

[@oletom6970]

Hell yeah

[@MikeTyson2]

Yes but that's not the only place you watch it is it that's kind of weird

[@PatrickJoseph007]

THE BEST Ford specialist on the planet. You are God's gift to Ford vehicle owners. Thank you!

[@animalmother556x45]

........this dude is like the most professional mofo that I have ever seen work on vehicles.... And he was brought to my level with fart noises. Fuckin' A

[@maicodoug]

My 2007 Ranger Level II, has an 8.8" LSD, with a electrical connector going to it. I identified it as an limited slip differential, but it had some sort of sensor gear next to the ring gear. I am believing that it does indeed require the friction modifier additive. Great vid, mine was changed 40kmi ago, but the mechanic whom I purchased the truck from admitted that the cover was leaking, and it was. Looked like he used the grey permitex, gear oil type, however did not apply it like you have instructed us all to do. So in goes the 75-140w and we'll see. I'm sure it will be fine, thx man for a super great video. Saves many from themselves, "something like that"!

[@rototiller78]

I just did my rear differential job in my 9.75 2007 Lincoln Mark LT today. I swapped out my factory cover for mag-hytec cover that holds instead of 5.5 pints, it holds 5 quarts of fluid. Don't have to worry about applying a gasket seal rtv and try to get on right without smearing it all over the place. Built in drain plug, o-ring and fill plug with a bigger magnet attached to it. A purchase well worth it.

[@randr10]

It helps while using the squeeze method to put the oil bottles in hot tap water for a few minutes before you start. It is very difficult to squeeze gear oil out of the bottle otherwise.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I never had a problem getting it out using this method, quick squeeze or two and it’s empty. The residual fluid left inside is from not being able to tip it up all the way.

[@CARRJ142]

Add a piece of plastic tubing to the end of the nozzle, and insert the other end into the fill hole. Great channel, all the best.

[@CVTaxi]

Robert Nugent Good idea. I've never thought of doing that, but I will from now on.

[@azr2d1]

If you cut the nozzle less (so it's longer) it won't leak as much while filling. Keep the bottles at room temperature helps a little too. And do drain the remainders in all bottles into the last bottle.

[@b.s.g.1586]

I also always r&r & clean the breather valve that's screwed into the top of one of the Axel housings. It gets clogged up with mud etc & needs to be cleaned out.

[@ant98tan]

Guys like you make guys out here like me so happy for the knowledge you share. Saves me money and educational thank you sir.

[@specforged5651]

You may want to clarify on the “grinding disc” comment. Some people who are watching this probably don’t know a lot about tools or aren’t too mechanically inclined and may actually take a 4” girder for metal and go to town. Sounds crazy I know, but trust me I’ve seen things you wouldn’t believe as I’m sure you have. Maybe clarify to use a scotch brite type abrasive disc or brass wire wheel. At least something that cannot actually remove metal. Thanks for your videos, they are a great quick reference when I can’t think of something off the top of my head.

[@brandonh.8882]

If its got studs in some of the bolt holes, thread two of them back in hand tight WITHOUT the nuts on them. Use them as guide pins when reinstalling the cover to line the bolt holes back up. Let the gasket sealer sit for about 10 - 15 minutes after you run a bead around it BEFORE putting the cover back on.

[@Gerle71]

Permatex Gear Oil RTV Sealant (green) says to assemble parts immediately after running the bead.

[@GeigerCounterVirtualMuseum]

Got to love that smell of old gear oil.

[@Fireship1]

Geiger Counter Virtual Museum that hypoid stuff has lots of sulfur. Smells horrible! If you get it on your clothes best to throw them away!

[@azr2d1]

No kidding. And the older it is, the worse the smell seems to be. Wear gloves or be prepared to have shtinky hands for days.

[@markk3652]

Full catlitter box smell for sure!

[@flinch622]

It's a fantastic aid for teaching people how to scrub up after getting into poison ivy. Put a little daub on their hands, have them rub it in then ask them to wash their hands [with liquid dish soap]. The smell remaining is proof of failure, and tell them to scrub up again.

[@KJ-co5fi]

Geiger Counter Virtual Museum hate the smell and I’m a tech

[@thejmcsr]

The very first thing you check is making sure you can remove the fill plug. No use doing an oil change if it is stripped or cannot be removed...

[@dirtberger4533]

Very good point, I seen this happen in areas that salt there roads.

[@lukewarren7857]

Thankful I found this video, I needed a refresher tutorial 75/140 being the acceptable weight and this run is on my Ford Expedition 4x4 with those computer controlled locking hubs Front differential has a drain plug rear differential does not

[@tomnatortomnator883]

Ok, I’m a retired quick lube owner who has an engineering idea about this diff oil change. Ford should have done what almost everyone else has done in the industry. Here’s the deal. Put a check/fill plug incorporated into the housing cover and a recessed drain plug into the actual cast iron “pumpkin “. There’s no way this simple job should be so involved. The only time you should remove the cover is to repair a leaking seal. Period. Oh BTW, it’s extremely difficult to even insert a plastic suction tube into the existing check/fill plug because it will hit the ring gear! Real brilliant, Ford! Maybe they designed this on purpose?

[@TheFARM2019]

My daughter walked by me as you squeezed the bottle and she turned to me and said “ewe, daddy, gross!”

[@testosteroneinc.3800]

"Rearend fluid" "Pooooooot, oh yeahhh" 😶

[@CaptainRudy4021]

Nice and juicy

[@920HVAC]

Doesn’t matter how old you are those noises will make you chuckle 🤣👏

[@blainemcdonald6972]

The older it is the worse it smells

[@CaptainRudy4021]

@@blainemcdonald6972 facts

[@blainemcdonald6972]

I did the 1st change at 71,000km,and it smelled bad. I’m guessing the longer you leave it in the worse it going to stink

[@Fireship1]

I have that same snap on digitorque torque wrench. Love it!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Works great and fills the gap between my small inch lb wrench and my big torque wrench.

[@armoricain]

Looks like a great tool to have!

[@Dave_Boyer]

Just sitting here eating lunch, while the cover sealant sits for an hour before I refill my differential. Not really a bad job to do at home, with the truck sitting on the ground. Thanks again for another awesome video!

[@paulbrooks2024]

You may think ford hates the video however, the person that is going to do his on service will get the information from someone now this tech is on top of the game seeing alot learning a lot, thanks FoMoCoTe

[@em2965]

Take those paper barcode tags off the axle tube. My '04 9.75 had a lot of deep pitting in the metal where that tag was trapping the road salt and grime under it, caused it to rust a whole lot faster. Went to a junk yard to get some parts, and every f150 there had the same pitting/deep rust from those simple paper tags

[@ethan5.4s89]

Not suppose to take them off if you lkst it your screwed because you wont know what rear end you have

[@fili2886]

Amazing job is always Brian. I would like to see you eventually perform a front differential fluid change. When I did mine I was not able to remove the front cover and I had to work around that since I already had it off to a point. I would like to see the proper procedure to do it.

[@Marco-fi6gv]

Feliberto Vargas yeah, I know what u mean, stuff in the way. I just drain and refill the front when I do the rear.

[@CVTaxi]

You're supposed to let the the sealant set for an hour before you snug the cover bolts down per the instructions on the Permatex package.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes I know but I follow Ford's procedure which uses the same sealant and never a problem in 15 years. You must torque them not ram them home and call it good. You can see here the process takes awhile to do right. Figure in the drying time right there.

[@CVTaxi]

FordTechMakuloco Good to know. I think I'll stop wasting that hour just watching sealant dry whenever I do any diff work from now on.

[@SilverAlert1]

Should we let the sealant skim at all or just run the bead and put the cover on? The rep from permatex told me to follow the directions on the package. I’m guessing as long as you take your time, the sealant will be fine...I just don’t want to have to do it again after I add the expensive gear oil.

[@clittle1559]

I dont read directions kinda have a compression issue it's crazy what you read in directions

[@hanskinslo326]

He says that in the video.

[@bobbyg5490]

Thank you so very much for educating people and being so honest. If only dealerships would do the same.

[@rkneegordon6316]

Greetings for the future! My 98’ Expedition says thank you!

[@apa7611]

That’s the sounds I make after a burrito!! Lol

[@mcmuskie2563]

2021 Ford F150. 57,000 Klm Followed your process, I don’t have a hoist, but I do have a floor heated garage, so laying on the Epoxy Painted Heated Floor wasn’t to painful other than your laying down the whole time. I put all the tools you suggested and the oil drain pan on the floor and drove over them. It was nice having everything at hand vs in and out from under the truck. After I crawled under I realized I should have removed the Spare Tire so my small impact could reach the top nuts, but I was able to get at them with a 3/8 ..1/2 in ratchet. Sure didn’t look like 3.5 Quarts coming out. Easy job really, boy oh boy, those nuts were tight, I was almost scared of busting them off. They had Red Lock Tight on them! Mine had a gasket. Anyway, thanks for all your help!!

[@fedguy9182]

My shop added the friction additive to my electronic locking differential. Will this cause any problems?

[@rocxylemmon8535]

Nope f150 needs that just as long as the gear oil don't have it pre shipped with it in the oil.

[@michaeleverett2650]

I have never been a Believer in using just silicone as a sealer, I have seen a lot of leaks and failures with that method, I have always used gaskets and gasket sealer on all of my projects and that has always worked well for me with no problems.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You have to use the right sealer is all.

[@adriangoede7433]

Question for you Mr. Ford Tech: If you’re ideally trying to get all the old gear lube & impurities out of the pumpkin (especially if your rear end hasn’t been done for a while), why not hose out the inside with break parts cleaner? Is there any reason not to?

[@VoffkaGomel]

Watching this video on a toilet. Oh! That sound!!! 😁

[@bobt1931]

One thing I do in a situation like this is get a few extra cheap longer bolts and cut off the bolt head. I use them for alignment studs and slide the cover on, catch the rest of my bolts, then remove my alignment studs and put in the bolts. Helps control the cover and not smear the sealant because you are pushing it straight into position. This worked especially well on my LS1 water pump because it was in a very awkward location and controlling the weight and starting a bolt was near impossible.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Great idea if you are in a tight location but in this case it's just not needed.

[@TX_AC5G]

Yet another service checked off with the expert help and advice from FordTechMakuloco. Now I've got the cleanest diff on the block. You rock dude!!

[@DoyleHargraves]

Now do the front diff. I need to see that done.

[@oscarcura7026]

The wife got mad at me thinking i was farting lol

[@bthompson1767]

I have to make sure my wife or neighbor isn't around when I add the fluid lol

[@mrgrimman5308]

So glad I found this video. The older techs I work with think it's idiotic to do rear end services. They seem to think that fluid never goes bad.

[@twoweary]

Just bought a 2011 Lariat with 105k on it. After watching this I decided I better change the diff. fluid . Man am I glad I did , it looked like mud ! I did notice the gasket maker said to finger tighten the bolts and wait about an hour to torque them, so that's what I did. I refilled it the next day and no leaks (after a good test drive). Love your videos ! Oh, my quarts of fluid had gas too.

[@SvgPatriot]

19:43 sounds like a Walmart restroom 🚽

[@moonshinemuscle3898]

The sound effects are priceless in this one. Good stuff!

[@TheSkaireKrowe]

Facetious sound effects couldn't even be added any better. I think most of us might have even chuckled a bit. However, he took it in stride during the video. Kept it professional. Great video.

[@trustme7731]

The permatex instructions say to finger tighten the bolts and wait one hour before tightening and to wait 24 hours before installing the oil. The sealant on the plug was a mess and is now inside the differential. Should always remove the plug first to make sure it will come out.

[@andrewfitzpatrick2223]

Lol, that sound cracked me up

[@brucebyrd5563]

After watching the video I changed the fluid in my Ford. When reinstalling the cover I cut the thread off of 2 C clamps (which were the same thread as the bolts) and made some studs which I temporarily installed to align the cover and not smear the RTV. It helped me hold the cover still, especially since I was working laying on the floor. Also I used Ford RTV made for this application. It doesn't have to dry for an extended time before adding oil (but it is very expensive).

[@krisprad440]

Please don’t stop to making video. Keep helping out here and there.

[@southernfriedhippie]

Does this make you an automotive protoligist? (Rearend specialist)

[@maverickdallas1004]

southernfriedhippie ...Only if your choice of rear end grease is Preparation-H!!!

[@chrischiampo8106]

Lol I Cracked Up Laughing When You Installed the Differential Fluid And The Farting 💨💨💨 Noise Hahahaha 🤢💨💨😐💨💨

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Fun times in a shop full of techs.

[@aquaman0167]

Thank you for taking the time to show all the steps required in your video. It really instills confidence in someone who has never done this before.

[@freewaylee]

Just did mine: F250 2005, 200k miles. The fluid was amazingly clear, the 75w140 and 4.25 quarts is the ticket. Had some small metal chunks, fluid was low by 1 quart...very bad and glad I caught it.

[@yafaza450]

to help align the cover I took 4 other bolts that threaded in and cut the heads off and put a notch in them for a flathead screwdriver (incase they got tight) and jus hand thread them in to make it easy to align and put the cover on. to put the oil in I use a 1/2in clear hose about 4in long that fits inside the hole so it doesn't spill

[@THOMASDRELICH]

Thanks for this video. I just did this for my 2012 expedition. Used the valvoline flex bags from Walmart for 12 bucks each. About 2.2 quarts is listed. I did about 2.5 or just under. The drained fluid was slightly white milky like you said. Wasn’t worried only thing is the fluid was very bubbly like it was whisked. I have seen your videos like this and will be doing the transfer case next. Thanks again. My expedition has 81k. Just did first oil change with pennzoil platinum 5w-20 (warranty) . And motorcraft Filter.

[@bobbyd6680]

Sound like water got into your differential housing. Happened with my old 2007 xlt 4x4. I was using it to launch my boat and had backed in to deep. gear case grease and oil turn milk and frothy when whipped up with water.

[@chidrole]

Sounds like me expelling gas after dinner! 🇨🇦👍

[@bossmaine601]

😂😂🤣🤣

[@chrisforker7487]

Great video! I’m definitely a fan of sitting for a day before refill. I’ve been in a hurry before and it came back to bite me!

[@mar1video]

I think I’m overdue for that maintenance item. 225,000 miles on my 2010 Ford Expedition. Never changed that oil. Going to take care of in next. !

[@chadharmon5716]

Love the farts 💨 embrace them Brian yes let it flow through you

[@philipolah7279]

Good Video- One Good trick to use when putting cover back on-- I cut the heads off a couple 3 inch long bolts and cut a screwdriver slot in the end and screw one in on each side and then you can slide cover on over bolts and lines up Perfectly first time! then put all bolts in and back out the long studs with a screwdriver. Works Fantastic!! I do the same thing when reinstalling transmissions. Great Tip my Grandpa showed me 50 years ago!!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

No need on diff covers this easy it’s all open back there basic hand eye cordination

[@noahburt2722]

I really appreciate how to explain things as you work. Thank you!

[@jrfizix]

What do you think about replacement diff covers like Mag Hytec that has a drain plug to make changing the oil easier than always breaking the seal?

[@zensterful]

jrfizix you will never get the cap out in the sump of the differential. you see him go in there with a towel and full that junk out of there.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

On the rear end I like to go in an wipe it out every time. Now if they had something similar for the front then I would say go for it.

[@raptor50trex]

I've got the afe cover and it has the drain and dipstick which is nice for not making as much of a mess when changing the fluid. And it has an o ring seal so no need to use any sealant Imo it's worth it

[@hp11208]

U sound like nate from expert village lol.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Is that a good thing?

[@hp11208]

No, but don't say, in this episode repeatedly lol.

[@toddallison4390]

About to do this service on our 03 F150 and in place of the Motorcraft, I'm going to use the Amsoil 75-140 for about $10 cheaper per qt. Excellent tutorial

[@motobroski9881]

You're a life saver dude as an owner of a 4.6 triton f150 from 98 you are my most important tool lol

[@stevejones9044]

Just did the procedure for first time using your video. Easy to follow! Super helpful thank you!