NO HEAT: 2002-2010 Ford Explorer Clicking Temp Blend Actuator Removal

[@Walshrocket]

I’ve been living with this issue for the past 40,000 miles and after watching this video decided to try and tackle it. Wow, that top screw on the actuator and getting the old unit out and the new one in were a huge pain. Glad it’s now fixed. Thanks for your help!

[@scottjones4792]

This video is spot on! I used this video and fixed my blend door actuator this weekend. Total cost was $38.99 for new part, $13.99 for 8mm gear wrench. Started at 10:30am finished at 1pm, that included going the hardware store to get a 10mm long socket $3.99 and to Autozone to get the new part. I will add this, I used the 8mm gear wrench to remove the two lower screws on the actuator. For the 3rd hard to get to screw, I removed the panel under the steering wheel, from there you can use an extension and an 8mm socket to remove the the 3rd top screw. Also, remember to connect actuator and turn knob to cold so the actuator will slide into place when you go to install. This was the best video!

[@rudyramos4816]

I really screenshotted this so when I do mine I can look at this 🙂 thanks

[@brianjordan4135]

Just wanted to add another "thank you" to the many already listed. Your thorough explanations saved me the $850 the repair shop wanted for what you turned into a 2 hour fix for someone who is not mechanically savvy at all. THANK YOU!!!

[@mariamcevoy1472]

Just want to give you a huge thank you for your help. Being a woman that loves to work on my own cars because I love proving that you don't need a garage to do everything. I got the job done by myself with a little swearing of course lol. Thank you again

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Sweet! Good to hear it all worked out, it's always nice to do it yourself and get that sense of accomplishment.

[@mariamcevoy1472]

Yes indeed it is. Not to mention I have acrylic nails and didn't even chip my polish or break a nail lol. The while job probably took me roughly 3 hrs and that was only because on my 2004 explorer, my actuator was on the side and behind some things but I did it. Eventually I'll get my butt back to school to be an auto mechanic . Thanks again, hubby was also happy because he didn't have to do it and he didn't have to spend all that money.

[@knkamereihnful]

you are the man pepboys told me 8 hours and 1000$ it took me 1 hour and 50 bucks and that included driving to the parts store thank you

[@jaymartinson]

I can't thank you enough! The mechanic wanted $600 (for a 6 hour repair). I bought the part for $49 and fixed it with the help of my 14 year old son whose smaller hands had an easier time accessing the bolts! Thanks so very much!!!! Works great now.

[@bartster68]

Thank you for this video. The hardest part of this repair is definitely removing the actuator screws. I used an 8mm open ended wrench for the screw located closest to the rear of the vehicle and accessed it through the front of the dash (where the controls are located). Also used the open ended 8mm wrench to get the screw located closest to the floor and firewall, and accessed it from the floorboard near the pedals (this was the easiest one to get). The last and hardest screw to get was the one above the last one on the other side of the actuator electrical connector. Had to use a closed end offset 8mm wrench. My 20 year old son got this one for me. It took the longest and he could only move it a little with each turn attempt. Also had to give the arms a rest several times. All the rest of the steps described in the video were just as shown and were easy peasey. I bought the actuator from Autozone for $49.99. Everything worked like a charm once the repair was complete. Total time to repair was probably 2-3 hours. Thanks again for the video. I probably would not have attempted this without your video.

[@skitchens1406]

This is the best tutorial that I've seen on KZbin. A couple of tips: if you go to Amazon, they will suggest the flex head ratchet box wrench. Make sure to get the non-flex. Plan to spend about 10 minutes taking the console apart and an 45 - 1 hr getting the actuator off. The dash will break if you tug too hard.

[@o1armbandit]

Took me 1 hour and 45 minutes. I am no mechanic by any stretch. Thanks for making this easy and saving me hundreds of dollars!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+o1armbandit Nice!

[@michaelstjohn6086]

Brahma?

[@jimrowley1097]

I followed this video and successfully replaced my actuator today. I had originally purchased the incorrect part for my 2005 year (604-207 was incorrect for me, but I found that 604-209 worked and the electrical outlet on the part is in a different location. 604-209 matched the original layout that I removed). As a novice to car projects like this, I followed the video carefully and even purchased a few of the needed sockets for 8mm and 7mm that were mentioned in the video. I would like to note that there are a few places where I found the video referenced the 8mm size nuts or bolt-heads, but in my year vehicle, I found that many of them were 10mm size also. I recommend anyone watching be prepared with a 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, and a deep 10mm socket if you use an electric screwdriver as the author does. I truly appreciate such an excellent free resource available to me that helped me save real dollars!

[@johnrhone1792]

Thanks for this video...same comments as Rudy Keron. That wrench was a knuckle saver. Entire change out took 2 hrs, but was doable as a do it yourself job. The heat knob is back working and that annoying clicking is gone. 2004 Ford Explorer 113,000 miles and still going strong thanks to videos like yours.

[@mikedd969]

Very helpful! Many thanks!! Just for everyone's benefit, if you have an Explorer with a console-mounted shifter (ours is a 2010 XLT) removing the center console is much more difficult. The good news is that it wasn't really necessary and I didn't bother with it. By removing the lower panel as shown in the video, and also removing the panel below the steering column and the column surround pieces (be aware removing the column surround requires a 5.5mm socket which most socket sets do not include) I was able to access all 3 screws holding the actuator in place. You'll need some long(ish) 1/4" extensions and the gear wrench mentioned in the video. I think this was actually easier than the procedure in the video, but the video was a great help none the less. Total time was less than 1 hour to complete the job.

[@chadbigelow6934]

I watched this video two weeks ago after my 2005 Ford Explorer began making the same exact noise. I googled the part and purchased it for $40. I completed the project today in a little less than 3 hours. I don't even change my own oil, but I was able to replace this part by watching this video every step of the way. $40 and three hours of my time is much better than the $800-$1200 the body shop said the repair would cost. Thank you so much for the excellent quality of this video and your explanations of all the steps!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Wow if that's not a success story I don't know what is! That is great to hear and encourages me even more!

[@adamknight5944]

Here I am nearly seven years and your walk-thru was superior to any other found on KZbin- and believe me, I searched the catalog. *Fixed in an hour*. Thanks for your excellent video, finally have my heat back.

[@enigmaone7055]

Thank you for this video, bought the gear wrench set $25, actuator $45, and two hours later...done, probably would have cost $500 plus at a shop. Subbed!

[@pepemerel]

I just want to thank whoever posted this. The dealership quoted me at $900.00 but after watching the video I decided to do it myself. $30.00 and 90 minutes later I have heat in my car again. Yay! Thanks again!

[@phillyGz1]

Thank you. This video saved me a couple hundred dollars. I been asking different ford techs to help me out with this and after talking to four of them the 5th one sent me this video link.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

phillyGz1 Really interesting I see my videos are getting passed around that is great!

[@sammyoquendojr8164]

Thanks for this video. Part cost me $43 and two hours later I was done and heater started working. Most of my time spent was removing and putting on the 3 screws that secure the actuator. Great instructional video.

[@billzaalberg471]

Re 2004 Ford Explorer: Great narrative & video. After about 3 years, we heard the clicking noise and you guessed it...NO HEAT. With a lot of struggling and small mirror, I finally got the blender motor in. The trick at the end is pull hard on the plastic wall so that the motor lies its shaft up and it will push in all the way. Don't worry the plastic won't break. The motor shaft is like a key and it has to line up. If it doesn't line up, you have to manually flip the heat/cold plastic door and tie it down so that the "Key" on the motor shaft will pop in perfectly. (You will have to flip the glove compartment lid down, squeeze inward with both hands and the lid will flip down without unbolting it. Reach your right hand in to the left and manually flip the heat/cold door down and tie it there to whatever is handy (Don't forget to undo the tie down when you have finished installing and securing the blender motor like I did. I used wire and forgot I tied it down and when I reassembled everything and turned the heat on it snapped the wire and broke the plastic piece off as well. Thanks for the instructions!

[@rayrawlinson9908]

The repair worked great, took just over two hours total, cost $35 for the Ford part from Amazon. An 8 mm ratchet wrench makes the job significantly easier plus an 8 mm socket with a long extension for the third top back bolt. Great posting saved me money and time.

[@RudyKeron]

I would just like to say "THANK YOU!!!" for recording this video. I just completed this exact replacement. After I made sure of the correct part number and finding the parts store that had one, I found your video, to show me what to do & expect. It was a life saver!! The best advice was to have the Gear Wrench 8MM combo wrench. If I'd have started to do everything else, I woulda been screwed to get the actuator out easily without that wrench! This job took me about 2 hours, thanks to your video!!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Rudy Keron Awesome!

[@barryz1969]

@@FordTechMakuloco I bought a single 8mm gearwrench just to do this job, no regrets....thanks a million.

[@rhettswhips]

I was just quoted over $1300 for this very problem at the dealership on an '05 Exploder!!! Said the entire dash would have to come out and both the blend door and actuator would have to be replaced. Thanks for making this video!!!

[@ATAHUALPA867]

Rhett Kelley never go to a dealer they will rip you off. Luckily i got my honest mechanic and still have this issue but i stick my hand thru glove compartment and move lever manually to get heat. Thanks for video thou.

[@MC-hs4mf]

@@ATAHUALPA867 what year do you have? My clicking is on left or driver side of panel fairly close to gas pedal.

[@patricklewisii7783]

Worked for me! I have a 2009 Ford Explorer AWD and didn't have to take the center console off.. Only the side panels. 👍🏻

[@RTXti-ld7dx]

Been putting this off for a year now because I thought the entire dash had to come out! Was reaching back to manually flip the door as a temp solution, but your video showed that it was pretty easy so i dove in and got it fixed myself!! Thank you very much!!

[@MC-hs4mf]

Where? Glove box?

[@jonellemills4509]

This was a great video. I have a 2010 Ford Explorer XLT. I called the mechanic to get an estimate after watching this video, they told me it would be $410.00. You got to be kidding me. I decided to do it myself after watching this video. It was less work than what it showed. I only had to remove the side panel on the drivers side. I was able to access the blend actuator from there. It was two screws and took less than 10 minutes. It only cost me $55. So very grateful.

[@twinkyb4]

I'm having the exact same problem with my 02 explorer XLS and I knew it. But your video showed me the easy way to change it and I can't thank you enough. $36 for the part and a couple of hours in the sun tomorrow and I'll be nice and toasty when the temp plummets this week.

[@zerocool1032]

Thanks so much for this videos this turned a $800.00 job into a $10.96 job. (Got the part from a scrap place.) Man, now the dad and kids can ride with heat for the winter. Thank you so much!!!!

[@ianbarker18]

This is the best repair video on this specific subject. I did this repair today. It took 3 hours and I had to modify my 8mm box end wrench. Do yourself a favor and buy a 8mm ratcheting wrench with about an 8" handle before doing this repair. That will save you about an hour of frustration. Need a 7mm, 8mm, and 10mm nut driver helps too.

[@RRyanWood]

Thank you for this! I put the video on my phone and had it apart and back together in an hour. The bolts on the actuator are definitely a booger. A ratcheting 8mm wrench is indeed the key. I bought one just for this!

[@helencrump23]

Thanks man. I just did this repair and it worked! A couple of notes to add. After you take out the console, you can also remove the panel below the steering wheel. There are two 7mm bolts at the bottom and then you can pry it out. This gives you better visibility to that elusive third bolt on the actuator. Second, before you put the new actuator in, connect the power, turn on your truck, and turn your hot/cold dial all the way to cold. This will get the shaft in the right position to be installed. Also, as others have said, if you saw out a small square at the bottom of the panel that covers the actuator, it can help free up some room.

[@jaspervilla916]

you dont need to saw anything. just be diligent.

[@deandrehoward1261]

​@@jaspervilla916 lol.

[@JohnWoodward-me]

Excellent instructions! After putting this off all summer and looking at countless how-tos, I tackled it this morning. $75 (including the ratchet wrenches an essential item for this repair) and 2 hours later, my 03 Explorer has heat again. Thank you thank you thank you.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

awesome!

[@waynedavis9532]

Thanks so much for this i did it last weekend on my 2004 explorer. The only variation is that I took the face of the dash off for better access to one of the screws . the face is held on by clips, but your directions were perfect. I put everything back and luckily there are no squeaks or rattles. Great!

[@davidwoulard5906]

1 thing....how did you get the top screw out? Everything else was perfect.

[@kaylireimer222]

Thank you! Single mom of two boys, its Wisconsin and we've been having -30 with the wind chill. Planning on doing this myself...I thought I broke something, good to know this can happen with normal usage. I've been quoted for 5.5hrs at $98/hr from a local shop, Ford dealer told me I had to come in for diagnostic testing ($150) even though I told them I knew it was the aculator. Apparently its still rare for girls to possibly be right on car issues. My kids and I thank you!! (Subscribed)

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I hope it goes smooth just make sure you get that gearwrench

[@chekes28gmail53]

Hi 🤗

[@jenniferchisolm408]

Kaylie Reimer, I am doing this right as I type this comment. Pat ourselves on the back and thank GOD for guiding us to be able to do this.

[@MC-hs4mf]

Unfortunately mine just started clicking

[@charlesfarber6254]

Thank you for posting this video. This video has probably like many others saved me hundreds in a potential repair on my explorer.

[@MyTunturi]

Great video, clear instructions and easy to follow. Replaced mine in a 2004, only change was to remove the panel under the steering wheel which allowed me to see the bolt in the upper left and get a wrench on it. This was my first real repair I've done myself so anyone can do it!

[@cliffperrino3015]

Youare truly the best on the net,no arrogance or overbearing ways,a true ace and gent,thank you

[@bluphii]

I Changed mine....with the help of this vid i do reccommend a few things that are very important... first make sure you have the 7, 8, and 10 mill sockets... also make sure you have at least a 4-6 inch extension(1/4 drive). I used a regular drill so it was hard to reach some of the bolts. Some of the 8 mill bolts in this vid were actually 10 mill bolts on my 03' explorer but you will use all 3 sizes. Also my drill was to weak to remove the support bracket nuts at 5:18 so i had to use a the ratchet since i didnt have have a 1/4 drive ratchet had to go to advance autoparts to borrow it. That ratchet wrench is a must there is no way this job can be done without one. A MAGNET would be helpful in case the screws are dropped when replacing the actuator as well the actuator is easier to get out and to the screw will be difficult to get back in if you have big hands like me . I have fingers like sausages so it took me about a hour and a half to put the screw in the actuator. Ford should made that side panel (that the actuator is located behind) removable. This would would be a 30 minute job. Lastly I got hear from a link from Amazon and bought the wrong part of amazon the mistake i made was i did not see or check the link from makuloco... so after i got everything of and exchanged and tested I had no A/C. When before i had only A/C.....So I had to go to Autozone and by the part again. Like Jason Popp said below Autozone has the part you have to get the one ending in 209 which is for main heater and A/C not the aux unit. Auto zone may be better b/c it has a lifetime warranty. mine has went out 3 times! in all the total time this took to change with the wrong part and taking trips to use a ratchet was 6 hours for me... the actuator could go out a 100 times and it would still be worth the 780 dollars i paid the dealer to do it 2x. Thank u mr Loco you are truly a scholar and a gentleman!

[@Nicole-ok2vz]

This instructional video was great! It was a pain in the butt to get to the accuator behind the dash of a 2005 ford explorer...but we got it...thanks a lot...I saved tons of money!

[@drradar9909]

This video is a life saver. I've replaced that motor before, but couldn't remember the details of how I did it. I don't recall seeing how the the screws were re-inserted in the video but I had trouble reaching them to get them started in order to use a ratchet wrench. The bottom one is easy to access from the bottom. For the top one, I found a gap through the dashboard nearly on axis with the screw and was able to easily use a long extension on a nut driver to insert that one. I got the front screw started with my fingers from the front then used the ratchet wrench from the bottom. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Mr. Makuloco.

[@MIKET5609]

MANY THANKS for taking the time to video this procedure and post it!!! I haven't had heat for over TWO YEARS on my '03 Explorer. Thanks to your post, I fixed this issue... and while I was at it, fixed a broken part (found the fix kit on ETSY) for the defrost/front vent door mechanism as well (couldn't use the heater control to switch between the defrost and front vent). As for the temperature actuator repair...I used two small tabs of masking tape over the top screw hole and "punched" the tip of the screw into it ahead of time which held screw in place until I could get a wrench on it. The other two screws were no problem at all. Definitely not a lot of working room...and I initially had problems getting the top screw to turn due to only being able to get my fingertips on the GearWrench I used. I had a slightly longer Craftsman "traditional" box end wrench, which enabled me to get that screw started...after which the GearWrench worked fine. Fortunately.... with your instructions (and my 62 year old neck and back) I got the job done for the cost of the new actuator and a standard blade screwdriver bit I managed to "lose" somewhere along the way (probably under the console duct assembly now and definitely not worth retrieving). One final point... I found that I could not get the original actuator's shaft to fully disengage from the side of the vent system far enough to remove it by "pulling it straight out" from the system (despite pulling pretty darn hard on the lower dash in an attempt to gain enough clearance). I found though, that when I had the actuator shaft as far out from its "socket" as it would go. simply "twisting it over" (as if to see the shaft side of the unit) allowed it to disengage from the "socket". I suspect there may be slight differences in clearance involving this part on various year model Explorers, and perhaps even some individual units of the same year model. Anyway..."overly long story short" ..."it got the job done", and reversing the procedure had the new part positioned in place " ready to screw down" in very short order! Thanks again!!!

[@JonoKnewt]

This video: saved my life. I've had no heat for 2 years in my truck. Michigan get crazy cold - and now I just need to replace the thermostat (part on order) and I'll have hot air back in my truck. SO stinkin' excited. Thanks for making this extremely helpful video. It took me a while to get the actuator screws back on because of the tight spaces, but that comment about the 8mm ratcheting wrench is an understatement - you HAVE to use it or you'll never get it secured. Thanks a million, man. I really appreciate you taking the time to show us how to fix this problem.

[@rickrogers9133]

This video is fantastic! Saved me over $900. My daughter and I did this in a couple of hours. The most difficult part was the removing and installing the top bolt on the actuator. I have pretty large hands but my daughter was able to reach in and install the top bolt with the gear wrench.

[@johnbrown2030]

great video ! wish all repair videos were like this... quick , to the point , great camera focus , great explaining and good tips for tools. 👍

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thanks!

[@danp7463]

John Brown I'm having the same problem on my 05 F-150.

[@miketonon7946]

I have a 2007 Ford Ranger and I hear a slapping noise when I drive over bumps, that seems to be in the lower middle of the dash. And I hear a sort of buzzing noise when I leave the temperature knob in the same place for a while. I move the temperature knob and it’s immediately gone. Should I change the blend door actuator? Or is it something else? I even already tried tightening everything that could be just a little too loose and also zip tied several tubes and wires that are somewhat loose under the dash. I can’t get rid of these noises! It’s driving me crazy! Please help! Thanks

[@luckychucky3426]

This is what KZbin is all about helping the little guy I enjoyed watching I have a Ford Marquis and I'm sure that thing will go out to watch just for funsies thank you very much great job

[@sawberp5566]

Dude, You completely rock. Excellent video. Clear, easy to understand and follow and you just saved me $918 bucks. (part was $50 at Autozone and the dealer wanted $968 to replace it). It took me over an hour to take the part out because I could not find my 8mm box end and was trying to use needle-nose vise grips. So I went out and bought an 8mm ratcheting wrench and it was MUCH easier. Would have taken me (a relative novice) less than an hour if I had the right tool in the first place. Again, thanks

[@craigingle7349]

You sir, are a genius. Almost broke the bottom piece of the dash but didn't!!!! And it works!!!!! Thank you. My wife and 2 children thank you as well......

[@uberninjamike]

bro ive been looking for this video and all i found were idiots who skipped steps and thought they were filming cloverfield. thank you so much man. you saved me time and headaches

[@styga1969]

Being an x flat-rate tech back at ford. Remove knee bolster ...drill holes threw the black plastic to get a 8mm swivel 1/4 inch extension. Remove and replace. Knee bolster would cover up the holes. 1hr tops. 6hrs at the end of the day. Great warrentee beater also. Try a lincoln Mark 8 when the door breaks and remove the heater box and split it . Fun fun fun.

[@GMB8118]

Thank you for this video. It's -2°F today in Colorado, and I spent the past three hours in the garage fixing the actuator. Without this video it would've taken me forever. The one thing that I'd like to mention from my experience is my '04 Explorer uses 7mm screws on the console. So you need to have 7, 8 and 10mm sockets or wrenches. Thanks again.

[@claudeswanson5521]

Thanks for the video. Worked great. I replaced mine this weekend. Tip: Take a picture of the way the key arm on the actuator socket is lined up. You don't have a lot of room to adjust the new one when attempting to install. Some videos say to cut your dash. DO NOT DO THIS! I need a video for a 2003 Ford Explorer for the rear blend door.

[@beckysmith204]

Thanks so much! Saved over $500 and now Dora the (2003) Explorer has heat again...much to my daughter's delight. The tip from someone about the ratcheting wrench was a good one, also. Ford's design on this is an epic fail for anyone who has to replace this part.

[@Sam-yo1xp]

thank u sooooo much this video saved me $1050 only took me 2 hours and basic tools just finished mine it means a lot to the family to have heat in the family car again in the middle of winter still 30° in the am in oregon

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+sug sug (the barbarian) Nice!

[@chadhouse1706]

Very good instructions, replaced mine in a 2004 model year and the information was spot on step by step.... saved me hundreds of dollars by doing it myself! Thanks for sharing.

[@mfr6181]

Great video! We couldn't have done it without your step by step instructions. My daughter was able to do 90% of the work due to your video. It was a $52 part, and would've been around $600 at the shop. Thanks again!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Mfr Sweet!

[@B_Rogers]

Thanks for this video. It's just saved me over $800. The 8mm gear wrench is an absolute lifesaver. I didn't have one but it was definitely justified in buying one just for this job.

[@RideitWrenchit]

Fantastic video, clear, precise and to the point without a bunch of fluff. I replaced that part this weekend on a 2005 Explorer by following the instructions on your video and now the heater works perfectly. It only took 1.5 hours start to finish. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.

[@cojolio]

Hey you just saved me $450 that the dealer wanted to fix my 09 f150 actuator. After watching the video, I went to the dealer and bought the part, replaced it in less than 2 hours wand I'm not mechanically-inclined!...Next project is trying to fix a tranny-leak the dealer quoted me $600 bucks for....again, thanks and keep posting these sort of videos Im sure it helps a lot of us some cash!

[@80spyder1]

Thanks for the video. I am somewhat used to doing my own repairs and I used this video for helpful tips you could say. The 8mm ratchet wrench is a must. Even being somewhat handy I spent about 2 hours on the job. But it turned out great thanks. I spent $50 on the part and wrench. Big savings.

[@OctogramNexus]

Thank you sir! This video saved me a quote of $1,500.00 from a repair shop. AutoZone had the part for $39.99 and a universal joint adapter for $9.99. After paying $54.38 after taxes & working on it for 4 hours, it's all back together and there is heat again. This was on a 2005 Mercury Mountaineer AWD with extra options. The part was located exactly where it was in your video.

[@Craftymomma87]

Thank you! I just got an 06 explorer and had to spend 3k to get it running, and now the heat doesn't work. I have 2 toddlers so i can't drive without heat. This was so helpful.

[@Bullhead812]

Watched your video, bought the part, swapped it out in less than an hour. Awesome! Thank you!! 06 Explorer Bauer edition part was 604-209. Nice work

[@spacedad1853]

Same as last guy. Thank you so much!! I'm also far from mechanic and saved $700 thanks to your video. It made it so easy! Only pain were those damn screws holding the actuator in place.

[@TheDarkstar5891]

My dad wants to say thank you for helping him with this video. Amazing video thank you and good job.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

TheDarkstar5891 No problem.

[@jimcolston1343]

Just completed this repair on an 02’ XLT Explorer thanks to your fantastic video! An 8mm ratcheting wrench is the key to easily removing and installing the actuator. Thank you

[@wirthdg]

My family is grateful for your help! Apart from some bleeding knuckles all went well. Really appreciate the guideance. Thanks

[@grampymeyer6603]

knuckles fine got the "back of my hand" though

[@may03LT]

Good stuff boss. This procedure worked perfectly in an 02. I popped open the actuator and the small gear thingy was busted exactly like yours.

[@prophez23]

I just got a real nice 2003 Ford Explorer and it's doing this exact same thing and I was an ASE certified HVAC tech almost 20yrs ago but I couldn't figure exactly what was going on. Your video was way more than helpful and I really appreciate the knowledge. Now I can fix it and my family and I will have heat this winter. In return I hit that like button and subscribed. Thank you for your help!

[@Me-mk1qc]

Spot on!!! You just saved me over $500 in labor!! 2005 Explorer XLT. Thank you!!!!

[@Me-mk1qc]

I might add this was an original actuator; the Explorer has 236k miles on it ;)

[@lesterfrothinger3451]

Thank you! My local garage tried telling me it was gonna be a complete dash tear down and at LEAST six hours of work (two days max) and almost $800... Cost me $40 and a couple hours to do it myself.

[@toddspire2268]

Dropping a thank you comment. Performed on a 2005 Ford Explorer. The 8mm self ratcheting is VITAL to the job. Wish I'd had a 10mm long socket, so grab it if you can. A 10mm wasn't in either of my handyman socket sets, BTW. And if it's not clear from the video, this is not a tough job to perform, but it's frustrating as hell. Especially getting the screws back into place. Also, I had to shove my head so far under the dash that I felt claustrophobic and needed to take breaks during the tough job of getting the top screw into it's seat. Worked like a charm though... grateful for the vid and the link to the part. Five Stars.

[@TheDougbergman]

I would like to say a HUGE THANK YOU.THANK YOU.THANK YOU.THANK YOU. My father and I were to do this in just a couple hours. This is a very doable project for "beginners" Video is outstanding for my 04 Explorer. One note to people trying this: make sure you get the exact same part for replacement. We got once that was close, but not exact.......it fit, but did not work.......so I luckily ran up to AutoZone, got the right one...and we are all set! thanks again

[@apeeboy4345]

Thank you for the great instructions. I bought a new part at a local Ford dealer and was able to install it in under 2 hours.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Nice!

[@smokinvaper1785]

This is the video that convinced me to change my actuator. I bought one a year ago when the clicky-clicky started. Been opening my glove box to push the 'rod' to keep heat on for a couple weeks - had to do it once in a while for the rest of the last year. I was able to change the actuator successfully (except reinstalling the third bolt - impossible) and all works well. It took me three hours and I found a source of dash rattle (unrelated) too! It was a tight fit for me to bend, twist and fold under the steering wheel but was worth it. Thanks for the vid!

[@alopez3829]

Dude. You’re a life saver!! I did remove the the panel under the steering wheel and a bar, simply to have a clear view of the top screw on the actuator. Your video was tremendous help. Thanks!

[@DavidHernandez-ue4fz]

How long did you take?

[@meganv.9541]

Thank you for this. I have watched videos for the last 2 weeks trying to find one that cuts the BS and gets straight to it while also providing the amount of information that I need. Yours wins!

[@davidrostron4745]

Great video! Fixed my '04 w/175k in about 2 hrs. TIP: I had trouble getting the new one back in & found that removing the two nut clips that the brace bolts to (see 8:05-8:10 in video), were a great help in getting the assembly to slide in.

[@d.roylance5913]

Took me 2 hrs and 6 hands (small, medium and large) Thank you for making the process easier. I did figure out that if I'd taken the electrical connection off the motor first, things would have gone much quicker.

[@JamesPNeal]

Great video, I followed along all the steps of your video and did the install. I'm happy to save $$$$ and my wife loves the heat. I have to tell you, your video is the most detailed and best step by step tutorial for this, I checked several other videos but yours is by far the best DIY. Not that you need any but a little tip for others. When you get to the part when your actually installing the Actuator leave the bottom bolts loose or it will be difficult or even impossible to put the top bolt in. Also when trying to place the gear in the socket leave unplugged then connect afterwards. I made the mistake of trying to fit the gear in the socket with the electrical connected first but it made it to difficult to maneuver. By the way, I bought the 8mm Reversible Combination Ratcheting Wrench and I was going to return if I didn't need because I already have a standard 8mm wrench but I'm glad I bought I don't know how I could of done without it. A must buy. Again, Great Video and a Big Thank You Very Much you saved me a whole lotta dinero$$$$. I could just image the $$dollars the dealership would of charged it was kinda of a process and the Actuator location is super tight. Keep up the great work...

[@Philosoraptor0341]

This was a perfect video. It's chilly in New England right now. Only thing is that on the 2006 Ford Explorer, you do not need to remove the center column. just the side wall by your feet in order to reach the support bracket and actuator. Excellent narration by the way!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

lilJames881 Yup a little different on the newer explorers.

[@mikeninness5092]

Thank you for making this. It allowed me to help a friend save over $500 in repair costs! Very easy direction and great step-by-step instructions!

[@noahkillough2840]

Thanks man! Now I can see my family for Christmas in the middle of this crazy cold front because of you.

[@BGwhy]

Just did it. Works just fine now. Great video saved some cash doing it myself. Hardest part was getting the piece back in but with some breaks and a few beers it went back in. Total time with going to the parts store (before the beers) about 3 hours.

[@mikedey7949]

Thanks a MILLION for this video!!! That part failed on my wife's explorer today... With temps of 6 degrees F. She was NOT a happy camper!! I've replaced this before, on a Ford Ranger pickup, it's behind the glove box on that model.

[@trellbell35]

That's why it's key to help one another on social media with vital information because shops will rob us for every dollar we earn for a minimum required repair.. Let's keep each other informed on helping one another.. Kudos to all God bless.

[@paulcarroll9136]

I had all the work done for removal in short order, about an hour. Putting the new acuator back in was a bit frustrating. The electrical wire was preventing me from inserting the male actuator spline into the dashboard receiver. After several attempts to twist the acuator and torque the dashboard from various vantage points, I gave up. Then I remembered the test using the old acuator spline. I used the spline to move the female receptacle slightly and was able to get it back together. Also the rear upper screw is a pain in the ass. I read the comment about removing the lower dash panel after I put it all back together. I can't comment on the ease of that, but would suggest it. I did it with the ratchet wrench without sight of the wrench/screw. I kept saying, that was a miracle. Took LOTS of breaks for mental strain and muscle cramps!!!

[@AvnerRosenstein-ULTRA-LXV]

I am currently having this same issue. I got the bottom screw in but not the middle/side one nor do I have the top one back in. This is extremely frustrating.

[@kahn719]

you're the man! you saved me a $200 mechanic bill! thanks a million, I love you!!!

[@UtahDarkHorse]

Great video and thank you very much for sharing. I just did this job using your video. Worked great. Took the old actuator apart. Found 2 teeth broken off on the smallest gear of the smallest wheel. I guess that's what you get with plastic gears. Without the 8mm ratcheting wrench, you'd be up the creek. I got my set at Tractor Supply.

[@12freeballin]

Excellent step by step instructions. Successfully replaced part for a 2002 Ford Explorer. Taking off the the panel (two bolts, then pop off panel) under the steering wheel where your knees are did allow a better visual and navigation of guiding the part out and back in position. A 10mm deep socket for the two support bracket nuts helps make that removal/installation quickly. 8mm gear wrench is also the key as FordTechMakuloco recommends for removal and installation of the three screws. I only secured the part with the two bottom screws which is sufficient. That third screw is a pain. Thank you FordTeckMakuloco : )

[@Jsartaj]

Hey there --- have a 2002 ford explore and am thinking about doing this myself and saving the 500 bucks quoted by the dealership. Just trying to understand if you suggest following the instruction of removing the console + the panel under the steering wheel - or simply the latter? Thanks.

[@ericlotts4928]

Instructions very simple, yet thorough! Saved me a bunch of money! Thank you!

[@carpenter7072]

thanks so much. my wife and I have so much fun replacing this part. when to pick and pull and got the part but was a little different on the electrical connection, what I did was open the white box and exchange the interior parts from the one I get at pick and pull they was the same as mine it works perfect now. thank you again. We did it in sunday night in about 2 hours.

[@mrpreparedallthetime1099]

Thank you so very much for making this video! Almost paid 345.00 to someone to fix this $37.00 part. Thank you

[@lokirip2372]

Got it on eBay for $40. Works great in less than an hour. Now just reassembly. Thanks

[@SocaSpice]

About to tackle this job, and wrote down the procedure step by step from your video. Did a lot of research first and yours is the best video out there. Thanks!

[@SocaSpice]

Just finished the job. Took me 2 hours. Good tip about the gear wrenches, if I'd had one it would have been MUCH easier to get that last top left screw in - what a pain! Got the actuator from Rock Auto for about $40 and saved the several hundred dollars the shop wanted to charge me to do the job.

[@elroyee]

I followed your instructions and replaced it with a part bought from eBay but the part was defected I think. So I replaced the bad gear in the original actuator and voila!!! Thank you so much!!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Fidel BK Nice!

[@JuanMoreno2876]

Just finished this job. Excellent video on how to do it. Took me 2 hours. Thank you very much!

[@mattshanton]

Should have listened to you. Went to AutoZone and got one. You were right. Did not work. Headed to dealer tomorrow. Fortunately, I did not reassemble anything before testing. UPDATE: Got the factory part. Less than 30 minutes later, the heat was blasting. Thank you for this fine tutorial.

[@DavidVanBuren1]

Did this 2 times now. Your vid helped. A shop would charge a lot of labor for this common problem.. Thx..

[@shanesnipes6745]

Thanks for the video! I was about to rip the whole console out of a 2007 explorer to change the air mix damper. Your way was much faster and easier! Thanks again!

[@exebeech]

Took me 2 hours. Perfect step by step instructions! Saved a ton of $$!

[@JohnMartin-eb7jn]

Thank you for the tip. I fixed mine in about an hour not including the trip to the parts store. I have the 08 Eddie Bauer addition and only had to take off the side cover on the console drivers side. remove the duct behind the cover and remove 1 brace. It was right behind it. Thanks for the video on where to look.

[@DarrenMatthes]

Thanks for the video. Saved me tons of money. Ordered the replacement gear from Amazon. It went pretty smooth, but I had a bear of a time getting the third bolt out behind the connector on the box. Tried for about an hour to get the third bolt back in, but finally gave up and figured two bolts is good enough.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Most of the time two are just fine.

[@Bubby1100]

Getting help from someone with smaller hands would help. I found the the last bolt was easier to handle when I had my head up and unable to see it. With the others, I was upside down looking up.