2011-2016 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost Oil Pump Upgrade Without Oil Pan Removal!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend: Melling M390HV High Volume Oil Pump- amzn.to/3hu4IaF 8mm Ratcheting Wrench- amzn.to/3A6NIhf 1/4" Drive Torque Wrench- amzn.to/3huD8dr Torque Spec for all bolts is 89 inch lbs. Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@brianconnell4030]

Man I need your help bought a Ford 3.5 liter last Oct used from dealership this Oct made a year it's been in the shop 7 times 3 diff motors what could be happening

[@TheLalos3]

Does work the same with the 3.5 2018?

[@Ellacost831]

Would this oil pump work for a 2017 Ford raptor?

[@thecoloradocultivator9166]

As a tech this really helped me impress my boss by showing him you in fact DO NOT need to remove the oil pan in order to replace the oil pump. Yes boss man I realize you have 25+ years of experience that doesn't mean you know everything. Very impressed with camera angles as well, having done this job 3x now I realize some of these camera angles took effort. Very impressed and a great video if the average person want's to attempt this repair.

[@jerryfrederick6610]

I did lower control arms on my daughters 2012 Escape yesterday. The first best tool for the job is this channel. Thank you again Brian for your great presentations. I'm watching this video and do not even own an Eco-Boost v-6. Thats how good these videos are.

[@thomasrossi31]

Thank you for your service to our Country and to your viewers! Great stuff.

[@fredsalter1915]

God bless him. I think he was in the USMC.

[@jeffscranton]

Yes, it is possible. I did this to my 2013 F-150 3.5 about three weeks ago. The oil pressure is fantastic and the truck runs like new. Thank you, Brian for putting together the four-part series on replacing the timing set and this video helped more than you know. That 8mm wrench was a life saver!

[@TripodsGarage]

We just did the timing chain. Our truck has 100k miles, had the cold start rattle. The timing guides showed a good amount of wear. Since the whole front was off I decided to have the oil pump replaced. I called my local Ford auto parts department. They told me not to buy the ford one. I was a little shocked. They said to definitely go aftermarket, and with a HV. They mentioned the same pump as you. I am surprised that I didn't see this video as I sub to your channel. What a major improvement! I highly recommend, as our truck is usually used for long trips towing or have stuff in the bed.

[@functionalvanconversion4284]

Wow, I hope I never have to perform this service, but if I do thank you in advance. You are a real hero and the value to your viewers in infinite. Thanks for such a great demonstration!

[@MrCbar1312]

I did the timing chain job on my 2013 f150 with your4 part video last year and I don't think this video was out at the time. I did manage to get the new high volume oil pump in without dropping the oil pan but it was bad. I don't remember how I managed to do it but it was a FIGHT. I sure wish this video would've been out at the time. Keep up the good work your videos are by far the best ones on the internet for fixing the ecoboost. I would've never been able to do it without you. Thanks for all your hard work making these videos!!!!!

[@natecarlson6283]

Thank you for sharing. I’m not a mechanic but can appreciate the help you are giving others. Great job!

[@oby-1607]

Before watching your channel, I never used a Cat-Claw. Now, I almost want to use it every time working on things needing separating.

[@FishFind3000]

Prybars for the win!

[@Powerstroke98]

Yes, I have a Cat-Claw as well, but for a different purpose, and that's extracting those push/pull pins, that hold so many of the portions of the truck to something else! Now, I know it would be helpful for another purpose! Yes, patience is the key to this job!

[@MarioDallaRiva]

Fantastic, Brian. 👏🏼 Thanks for taking the time to show this in real time. Excellent footage.

[@Jacob1986]

I dont own a Ford but enjoy watching this guy. Love the attention to detail :)

[@mikechiodetti4482]

That's better than lowering the front axle and the oil pan! Nows the time to change the old pump for better oil distribution when the engine's apart! Good one Brian.

[@tonyblackburn5002]

Man I love this channel this dude is THE FORD GUY.

[@ricky12811]

Thanks for share I'm not a mechanic but I like to watch videos like this .

[@spencer6764]

Thank you for sharing your experience and time. I really appreciate you and taking the time to share. I watched your video on the transmission cooler lines and went and looked at mine and the crimped ends where show signs of seeping so I changed the 4 lines out it was 311.00 dollars from Ford dealer. Now I have a peace of mind. Thanks again 👍🏻👍🏻TAKE CARE BROTHER AND Happy Holidays to you and your family

[@joer9276]

Man I wish there was a mechanic like you near me!

[@joshrob316]

Installed on my son's truck last night. Tough job made much easier with all your tips and info! Thanks for what you do.

[@greasee.monkey7224]

Thanks for the education. I have used your method for oil pumps on the 5.4's and it works flawlessly. Patience is definitely key, and sometimes easier said than done. Great video sir! 👍👍

[@FreeWill-is-Love]

I appreciate your videos. YOU are Truly authentic. I have steered many to your site. With ALL that said, Ford Sucks! I have, for many years(until 2004) been a GM fan, until they went Junk. I have a 2015 F150 (coyote) of which I scoped the cylinder’s to find Massive carbon! Since then, I installed a separator to find a Lot being collected. (I Highly Recommend a separator!). Upon inspection of said cylinders, I discovered the pistons were different in casting’s. I talked to my nephew, highly intelligent mechanic (Airforce levitow), in which he told me that it is normal junk. They, all big three, balance their engines with “added” weight to the throw’s of reciprocating! What the 🤬🤬!! Since that realization, Recommend Japanese…..we, Domestic, have went so far on the quality to putting bandaids and short cuts upon our products! It’s disgraceful! -two cents

[@phastphigures9334]

Huge thanks for helping us Ford truck owners- my 2011 F150 3.5 E.B. has 210k miles and your videos have been a tremendous help...keep up the good work and posts!!

[@Paul1958R]

Brian, Excellent video, repair, and tips - thank you! Two comments: 1. I think if Ford had made the pilot on the pickup tube 1/16" shorter the job would be much easier without affecting fit to the pump. 2. Im surprised there is no type of seal (gasket, o-ring, etc) between the oil pump outlet and the block surface (just flat metal-to-metal). Paul (in MA)

[@davem3789]

When I replaced a water pump on 2013 Explorer I also changed the oil pump. I though it would be as tight with the pickup tube as your video shows but luckily those have plenty of room and it was quite easy (once you are that far into the job).

[@Powerstroke98]

Wow, I had no idea that if you are into it for changing the water pump, that you could do the oil pump as well! Thanks for this tip!

[@380.motorsports]

Nice job coming up with a time saving process and working out all the “bugs” to make the job easier.

[@chrisforker7487]

You have a lot more patience than I do!! Great video, I hope I never have to do the timing again!

[@nvennard]

Great video, I used your video on the 5.4 3V to install a HV oil pump, worked a treat. I like on this engine that the pan doesn't bolt into the timing cover.

[@Wreckerboy]

1. I was surprised to see you use and recommend a non-FoMoCo part, even though Melling is an excellent manufacturer (and probably makes the pumps for Ford). 2. The paper towel trick is brilliant! How did I not know this in 40+ years of home wrenching? Thanks!

[@JohnDoesGarage]

I'm always on the lookout for short cuts like this that save loads of time. For example, I figured out how to change out the blend door motor on Grand Marquis and Crown Victorias without having to remove the entire dashboard like the factory manual says to do it. I really should make a video on that. You did a fantastic job on this little gem of a tip. I might try shaving a little bit off the pipe that fits up in the pump just to make it a little easier going back together. Thank you again for another video full of priceless information.

[@giovannigiorgio8962]

Customer: "What in the world is that hole 🕳️ in the bed?" Neighborhood Mechanic: "That is called a fuel pump access hatch, the engineers really dropped the ball on that one."

[@coldfusion112002]

I would be concerned about the metal shavings going down the tube.

[@jimmydiamond75]

I hope you offered the guy some upgraded turbos like Garrett Powermax or even the GT’s from Ford!!!! Just did this a few months ago after seeing your announcement about the production of the Melling HV pump. My shop software “ProDemand” told me the same; drop the pan, the axle, and I simply refused to do so lol. I wound up with the same method, and I’m not a KZbinr but I was so pissed I didn’t chronicle the procedure for others to see. NO SHOP or even DEALERSHIP I’ve spoken to wants to tackle this, and you’re 150% correct; if you’re gonna spend all the money to crack the thing open like this, you better replace everything you possibly can if you want to see 300,000 plus miles. Thanks again, I appreciate what you do.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

We do not install anything aftermarket except the oil pumps from Melling.

[@terryziegler6977]

Curious as to why the 100 psi spring is not recommended for a daily driver.??? Thanks Terry

[@huntingspud3086]

Another awesome repair with valuable how-to info. Really love your videos!

[@dannycole9401]

I use two small dabs of super glue to start the pick-up tube. Once the bolt is tight, it is easy to break your wrench loose.

[@jhartford58]

Personally, will probably never attempt anything to this scale but found this vid very interesting.

[@toddshook1765]

Thanks so much for showing this tip. I have been looking at the 3.5 eco boost F150. Heard lot good and bad about the engine. Great torque for towing just need catch can and make oil change and spark change regularly. Saving this video.

[@steveportice3560]

I was thinking about the oil pump being replaced, because they are always talking about the cam phasers starving for oil on start up, so I looked it up, and your video showed up. I did verify the valves to be okay on the driver's side of the engine after the secondary chain broke. So we are moving forward with the project.

[@joshdunlap7766]

I followed your videos when I did the timing job on my 04 5.4 3v. When I went to change the oil pump I dropped a wrench in the oil pan and had to drop the front axle and pan to get it back out. I was so frustrated but it did allow me to go ahead and change the pan gasket so I guess it wasn't all bad.

[@michaelbefumo-qg7ji]

That sucks, I'm sure you tried grabbing it with a magnet, before dropping the pan and the axle

[@joshdunlap7766]

@@michaelbefumo-qg7ji I did but couldn't get it. It was under one of the baffles near the drain bolt.

[@jrt77339]

When prying on machine surfaces I try the Nylon trim tools that I cut to shape that has a place to hit with small hammer or mallet.

[@gapplevr4915]

Thank you for the video, I made sure to use some assembly lube on the pick up tube/oil pump mating surfaces to make it easier to slide onto each other and to reduce any metal on metal contact.

[@kmack747]

I just recently did basically the same thing on a 2012 flex 3.5 ecoboost did the water pump and oil pump when doing the timing. The oil pump wasn't to difficult to change without removing the pan

[@M4sterT3ch]

Thanks for the video, will definitely be using this technique to save time in the future. And of course, the customer will still pay full time.

[@josephmorrone2660]

Brian ; another Great presentation ! Can’t wait to see what’s going on in the shop next ! WELL DONE ……… as usual 😊

[@davea2288]

If that lead-in on the pick-up tube was just 1/4" shorter in length, the clearance between the tube and the pump housing would be there and the remove/install process would be so much easier without the potential of distorting the tube and making metal chips when it scratches across the housing surface. Ford should be watching and learning and implementing this.

[@jeremydoblinger3609]

I'm in wausau wi and have a 19 f150 with the big dog 3.5 ecoboost..got 17,000 miles on it only but when the day comes she needs a timing set I'm gonna schedule with you.. not scared to do it myself but I'd really like you to go thru it and make sure it's all done proper.. well worth the money in that case..

[@aaronjones1044]

very good, im going to do phasers, etc. soon, think ill do this also. thank you, excellent camera work👍

[@michaelmurray121]

Another great video Brian I like the paper towels method to hold the bolts in place for installation thanks a lot you really teach us well have a great weekend brother.Peace n Love…

[@pi1797]

Awesome video. Very informative without all of the cussing or foul language.

[@mikeaho4143]

Great video Brian. Very comprehensive and an awesome time saver. Thanks for sharing

[@timkis64]

well done sir.definately beats dropping the pan.

[@arthurgilbert8412]

Top notch video. Ty very very well done. Can't say enough

[@patrickursomanno8861]

Thanks for your time, just bought a shirt. I have a 2016 f150 5.0

[@rodneymiddleton9624]

Nice job to work around all the extra stuff to remove. Thanks!

[@gnohn9366]

Great video. Way above my skill level, but interesting nonetheless. You are the Fordmeister!

[@cdnskiiertracker1058]

A piece of wood dowel with a liitle Mcguyverin to hold the pick up tube out the way would free up a hand and make things easier. Then holesaw a 4x4 post big enough to accomadate the main crank rod. The hole wood have to be at least 6" deep. Im guessing the depth here but some of you get where Im going with this. Then cut off the post long enough to go over the crank. Maybe 6 to 8". The holesawed 4x4 piece is basically a custom " drift". Wiggle the pump in place. Place the drift over the crank and gently tap the pump on with a mallet.

[@billsimpson604]

Great time saving discovery. Loved the funny commentary.

[@OKHotrodder4u]

I didn't see any of your videos showing the newer, like '18, 3.5 eco. I bought all my timing parts from the dealer but the guy told me they never sell oil pumps for them. I know they changed to electronic solenoid pumps, which drove the cost up. My thought is to put a new pump on while I'm doing the timing set. But I haven't seen anyone change them and have been told it adds a ton of time to do it. I am literally about the remove the timing cover as I've been slowly taking things off every day. I did notice the fuel pump is on the passenger valve cover now instead of the drivers side. In this video, the oil pump appears easier to get off than the 5.4 3v, mainly because the pickup on the 3v is under the lip of the pan. But I can do a timing set on a 3v pretty quickly as I've done so many. So far, this 3.5 has way more stuff to take off. It could be because it's my first timing job on the 3.5. I noticed when I held the gas pedal down upon turning the engine over to allow a no start while I watch the oil pressure gauge, it seems to take a while for oil pressure to come up both during cold and warm startup. The engine I'm doing has 170k on it, and as far as I know, it's never had a timing job. So my thought is to put a new oil pump on as it's taking so long to do the timing set, instead of going back in 6 months later for chain rattle again. Does a new oil pump have to be programmed? Or can one just be replaced? I'm assuming a new pump isn't hurting anything but I'm wondering just how robust the pumps are. I called Melling and they said they do not have a replacement pump for the newer 3.5 yet. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks for all your vidoes. I find them to be very informative in comparison to what's out there.

[@jeffone2nv]

Expert precision like always that why you deserve the Big Bucks $ !!!!

[@indyaquatics8370]

In gonna need to borrow you this Saturday. Yeah that'd be great, thanks

[@wisconsineaglesfan7925]

Another quality video. Thank you! I have a 2015 3.5 EB, but only at 90K on it. So hopefully I don't have to do this round of servicing for a little while. Oil changes before 5K miles with Pennzoil Platinum every time.

[@Dirtyharry70585]

Got 2019 with new phasers at 59k, filter and oil every 5k, she has 70k on it now.

[@Carado5150]

Switch to ultra platinum. Watch the project farm video on the comparison between ultra and regular plat

[@wisconsineaglesfan7925]

@@Carado5150 I'll have to check that out. Thanks!

[@Carado5150]

@@wisconsineaglesfan7925 I like both but it surprised me how drastic the difference was so I switched, although I still use Plat on some cheaper vehicles

[@wisconsineaglesfan7925]

@@Carado5150 Ohh, and Go Steelers (this week at least 😄)! The Eagles have the Saints #1 pick next year, so kinda hoping the Saints lose out. And Watt is back this week IIRC, dude's a beast!

[@brianskinner4328]

Awesome videos, also thank you for serving the country

[@SuperShopguy]

Great video as always! I have a ‘14 F150. Currently I have 133k with the factory extended 150k warranty. I do all the regular maintenance at the same dealer I purchased the vehicle new at. 2 questions if you have an opportunity to answer them: What does a time job and oil pump replacement cost, ballpark I don’t need your exact numbers. 2. Is there anything I should be looking for to get the best out of my warranty? The only major things that I’ve had done, warranty wise, was the driver side turbo was polled to replace a leaking coolant line. I do have an occasional driveline thump when moving from a stop on an elevated surface. Other than that the vehicle has performed flawlessly. Really appreciate these videos.

[@PlumberD]

I’m curious as well for a 2013 F150 !!!

[@hottshott30]

Definitely would like to know also

[@nedflora1154]

I have a 14 and am curious also

[@FordTechMakuloco]

A timing job with all the extras that I replace is well over $3k. If you are under an extended warranty you need to keep an eye on the common failure points for the expensive repairs like the coolant lines at the turbos, water pump failures are common and of course most important of all you should be listening to your engine on cold starts to catch the all-too-common startup rattle which would be a great item to get repaired under warranty. Nothing else is a major concern with these engines.

[@nedflora1154]

@@FordTechMakuloco my truck doesn't rattle startups it rattles when warmed up. I have not seen any coolant leak

[@robertrpenny]

Them EcoBoosts are maybe not quite as crazy as the 3v Tritons but still enough to make you loco.

[@dpkeys]

I'm doing WP, chains, guides & tensionsers (minus phasers) on my dad's '09 Flex AWD (non-turbo & skinny chain). Turned out WP pulley actually punched a hole in the timing cover, cover was actually keeping the pulley in place or it would have tossed the chain. He pulled over & shut it off right away & towed it to my shop; it still ran, so we double-oil changed it to flush out the milkshake then considered options. We would only run it like 30s at a time (no coolant) but it seems to run fine so we're fixing it. I'm getting the M390HV pump and a new pickup tube. I'm keeping my fingers crossed I can fish the tube out & in without dropping the pan as the engine is supported with a jack - the motor mount is off. When the oil pump & tube is out I'm hoping I can flush all the coolant & crap out of the pan & the passages to the oil filter. I'm looking for suggestions on how to prime the oil pump and engine. Best I've seen so far is using a suction gun to backfill the oil pump through the off-center hole in the oil filter adapter. Pre-fill the oil filter, then use clear-flood mode to prime the engine the rest of the way before firing the engine. My other question is the timing cover. I heard it's difficult but holy hell I could not get it out without removing the LH VTC housing to gain clearance. I have no idea how I am going to get the new cover in there at all let alone without smearing the sealant. I have the coolant & power steering reservoirs and a/c tubes out of the way, I think I have to drop the washer bucket out to gain more clearance. Hope I don't have to strip off the bumper cover.

[@rogerspaulding6569]

NICE! Thanks for the clear step by step.

[@mikeramsey9747]

Brian, once again you make it look easier than it is. Thank you

[@jefflynn4079]

very helpful video. My 3.5 is a non turbo so the pickup tube was easy. Thanks again for posting this.

[@gregdeternova1537]

My brother has s brand new 2022 ecoboost in a mustang. He performed his first oil change at about 4000 miles and he was stunned and almost had a heart attack when he saw the oil coming out was GREEN. After calling me, i didn’t know why and tried to calm him down and told him it might be Penn Grade oil. He then went to dealer and they told him it was breakin oil from factory. Have you seen this in these engines? It was def green, not brownish/oatmeal like when a headgasket fails. Thx for all your great tech!!!!

[@scottb3188]

I know Brian cautions against it, but my inclination in installing this pump, once I'm certain that pump flats are aligned to the crank, would be to take six inches of a large PVC or ABS pipe, center on the pump and over/around the crankshaft, and tap the pipe gently with a rubber mallet. Certainly forcing this fit could cause damage, but I doubt a gentle tapping would do that. It'd just provide enough vibration and force to ease the pump over the shaft, which is essentially what Brian is doing by working the pump back and forth over the crankshaft.. Just a thought (maybe not a good one, but then patience ain't my strongest virtue 🙄).

[@FordTechMakuloco]

gentle tapping with a rubber mallet is fine, you will know if it is moving or not without damage.

[@johnjones3816]

Great video guys will definitely save a ton of time

[@davedeatherage4902]

Thank you sir; you're expertise instructions helped me. Thanks for everything in this video.

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

Excellent guidence. I guess you have to be sure that the pickup is clean? Maybe an inspection camera down the pickup would be worth while to look at the mesh?

[@jamesbruno5896]

Great tutorial Brian thanks as always!

[@Joseywales41]

Great video man! Definitely should be replacing these bolts though.

[@nicholaschapman8360]

I just did mine the way you showed in this video and the worst part was the inner bolt. 1/4 turn at a time lol

[@relally]

Does sliding that tube under the bottom of the pump shave material? I'm assuming a steel tube against an aluminum machined surface.

[@Astrand1]

Yes. Thank you for your service. And another great video. 👍

[@gregsidel3557]

When you slide it across the bottom of the pump with that tube you're scraping off aluminum off the pump into the tube that's why you should again clean some of the material off of that tube so you make it a little shorter

[@carterorio1526]

Great time savings! Patience is key.

[@George-Edwards]

Hello Brian, I can not really believe that is more difficult than what you described at first, (dropping the frt axle and oil pan) you did the whole thing in under 35 min even with all the explaining you did. How long does it take you when your not doing a vid? 15-20 min maybe, smile. Thank you for all the good tips you put out to the world Brian. George

[@FordTechMakuloco]

About 10 min yes

[@richardschuster3205]

I may just bring you my 2011 EB and have you go to town on it.

[@CaptainNero]

That's one heck of a Time Saver. Thank you.

[@jeffhowell3310]

Thanks for sharing that. There are always better ways than what ford says on alot of things.

[@grantstricklin]

Do you have a video of 2016 platinum explorer oil pump and timing chain replacement?

[@illusion9966]

Looks like you could shave that pick-up a 1/16 and this would be super easy... If you have a good rag down in the pickup or an actual pipe plug and along with a rag in the pan..just use a dremmel with a cut off wheel... You can also have a 2nd set of hands to push down and away..that would help a bunch as well Another GREAT video tho What a time saver

[@ralphmckinley1206]

I got a 2013 with Garrett stage 1 soon as it gets a little warm I'll get a low oil pressure buzzer I'm right at about 180k I guess I should go ahead and a timing kit

[@davidbrown3184]

I really appreciated this video. Our 2015 Ford Transit 3.5L EcoBoost has about 130,000 miles on it. I'm about to transition from orange Dexcool to Motorcraft VC13G. While I'm doing that, I'm going to replace the water pump and upgrade the oil pump to the Melling M390HV. My question is regarding reassembly after installing the oil pump. If I don't move anything (phasers, sprockets,etc) do I need to retime the engine after putting the timing chain, guides, etc back into place?

[@josephcangelosi]

Will the higher pressure spring hurt anything on a daily driver?

[@kentalstat8024]

Maybe take a round shank screw driver the same diameter as the bolt hole in the pickup. Heat and bend the end @3/4" , 90 degrees. Drop the end of the bent screwdriver into the pickup hole and pry down and push it back and hold it to allow the pump to slide on easier. IDK, just a thought.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

No needed, it is actually not that bad this way, it is much worse when you have a camera in the way.

[@andrewp.619]

If you don’t mind me asking, what’s the approximate cost for the service that you’re performing for this guy? Timing, turbos, manifolds, water pumps, everything? Or even how much do you think this would be from the dealer? I’m approaching 130k on my 3.5 and with the price of their new trucks, I’m not sure if I want to put the money into fixing the truck up, or just getting rid of it and ponying up for a new one.

[@andrewp.619]

What do you guys think? 10k? 15k? Or am I way overestimating.

[@wadeheying7117]

I think with all of those parts and labor, you may be approaching 10k. I just payed 2.6k for the parts to do a complete timing job. Dealer wanted 6k to do the timing job. Turbos are about 1k each in parts. So, probably at least 3k with dealer install. So, about 9k without the headers.

[@ethorman]

Thanks for the info Brian! Looking to do this on my 2012, anyone have tips for removing the crank timing gear and reinstalling? All I can find on the KZbin is LS info, thanks!

[@deanbuffoni5139]

every time I watch your videos your doing some major job on an engine, tells me that Ford trucks are garbage, I dont drive a truck but if I did I wouldnt buy a Ford, seems there always something wrong with them..my wife drives a Ford Edge, she loves it, I like the Ford Flex myself..love your videos ..

[@CrazyPetez]

I’m impressed!

[@keepitreal5148]

Thank you Sir!!

[@deeswaz3318]

Awesome .... Thanks for great videos...

[@vinces8974]

Great video demonstration, what about the newer eco-boost engines, For example I have a 2018 F150 with a 3.5 L eco-boost, do these engines have trouble with oil pressure and cam phasers?

[@cliftonpearson1763]

You are very informative

[@tmark8550]

I learn a lot from your videos. Thank you. I do have a question. I have an 06 f150 that I don’t want to get rid of an just do an engine swap. Would the 3.5 eco fit in that truck?

[@eduardowheeler9547]

Awesome video by the way

[@ShayZ06LS6]

Why do they need to be replaced? Do they fail? Wear out? Is stock pressure to low?

[@dayneh5734]

Dude 😂

[@davestewart9146]

Awesome video, thank you Brian 👍😁

[@s60t5M]

What are the part numbers for updated manifolds and turbos?

[@jeffone2nv]

Great job always!!!