1997-2004 Ford F-150 & 1997-2002 Ford Expedition Lower Ball Joint Replacement Procedure

[@retrodadstl]

I live in Missouri they wanted $900 to change all 4 balljoint on my 98150 thanks man bought tools and parts for the entire front end for under $300 on 1a auto so saved $600 have new tools and everlasting knowledge...Much RESPECT BROTHER 🇺🇲🇺🇲👌👍👍

[@ZensPlaceyt]

after 7 years this video is still helping people. at least it did me thank you for the vid just replaced sway bar linkages on my 2000 F150, for now but your video prepared me for the rest.

[@garymagliocca2913]

Once again spot on no BS procedure. It has become 2nd nature for me to watch your videos. I’ve turned wrenches most my life and I’m 71 now but it never hurts to watch and review! 5 Stars once again 😊

[@KM-kl8xu]

Dude, you make it look so easy. I've watched this video a few times and I'm very impressed with your knowledge and how you explain everything in detail.Thanks for teaching me and saving me some money. 👍

[@Trifler500]

Great video! I'm in the middle of doing this and I wanted to mention to people that I found that this is doable without removing the brake caliper and rotor. It just gives you a bit more room.

[@adamm408]

Thank you for your tutorial. I just finished this repair + wheel hubs. It went smooth. I got my hands on a 3/4 drive socket set from harbor freight - I felt like I was going to destroy my 1/2" drive set on the axle and lower balljoint. My truck was slightly more rusted than yours - but everything else came free much easier than expected.

[@PIANOSTYLE100]

I know this is 4 years old. But I will pick up a 3/4 drive. Thank you for posting that.

[@THETOPGLOCK]

You definitely have the best DIY videos on KZbin Brian. I don't even own this body style F150 anymore but yet here I am watching this video..👍

[@reeblesnarfle5443]

Fortuneately mine's a 2002...😎👍

[@bleachitful]

Wow, great video. I just did my 97 F150 yesterday (ball joint and upper arm). I am new to this and I felt like I did a good job but after watching your video I am going to go back through and check it all again. I appreciate how much detail you provide. It will be a pain but it's worth it for safety.

[@jerseydude3024]

FordTechMakuloco ... you rock bro! Started this repair on my '99 (2WD) today, Went JUST like your video. Repair shop wanted almost $700 in labor to do this job. Thanks bro!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+jerseydude3024 Awesome that's the point of these videos glad it worked out.

[@curtisimo032]

Wow. Where was that? My shop quoted me $456.

[@BaxterDeBerry]

Mine quoted me 1050! of course tie rod replacement.. yah im gonna redo the whole thing myself! on my 98 rwd f150.. Just gotta find the right ball joint press kit

[@kellyeaton7252]

I had a quote of $1010 + tax for upper control arms and lower ball joint replacement. According to the line items labor was only $400 ($200/side) and the parts made up the other $600. BS. I bought them from amazon (with additional suspension items for $130). Anyway, I'll be following your advice in this video tomorrow morning.

[@9wire9]

My knuckle broke at the bottom ball joint (98 f150 4x4) this video made the job easy, me and my son swapped the knuckle in 2 hours. Your video fixed my 4x4 as well, broken vacuum line. Great videos, sir, much appreciated.

[@d.scottjohnstone6813]

Damn good video! You are definitely right on the money! A little side note: I had to invest in a 35mm socket to remove the axle nut coz mine apparently sprouted a couple of legs and walked off. Anyways, the counter guy at O'Riellys insisted it was a 36mm and even showed me the screen on the computer he was pulling the info from. I put my tail back between my legs and made the $22 purchase. It worked but sure enough there was a little bit of play AND certainly not a good idea when you are torqueing a nut back down to 225 foot pounds!!!....I'm returning it this afternoon for the 35mm replacement! Why didn't I just listen to you?!.....Good job my friend!

[@ladybird1782]

It ran off with the 10 mm lol

[@t3angling575]

I am tired of paying $1,500 for any and every repair on my 2001 F150 4wd Supercrew. Glad I found this channel. I love my truck, and was about to trade it. I get it, mechs do great work, hard work, wotrk others don't want to do, but at $200 an hour, that is a little much. I had Ford look over a vehicle I was about to buy. Had the check the entire vehicle over. When the checked the bearings, etc, the guy said they just fell apart and fell out of the vehicle. I am not a mech, don't know squat about cars. But after watching this video and the video on bearing and hub replacement, I for the life of me cannot see how they charged me $2,600. They said by law they cannot put it back together, and just give it back to me. While I appreciate the safety concerns, to not release my vehicle back to me, is/was BS. I am drive Ford trucks and no other. But they started losing me. I still have my F150, and it needs work at 244k on a Triton 5.4L, but it is such a great truck it it worth repairs. I just cannot bring myself to take in for another $1,500+ repair from them. So, learning is the way. Thank you so much for these videos. Now to get the balls to try it myself.

[@jockodog2009]

Great teacher. Milwaukee makes these tasks so much more accessible for DIYers who don't otherwise have a full setup. Get your replacement U-joints & tie-rod ends and have them with you when you go to your auto parts store. It helps to rent the right press kit to fit ensure the right receiver cups/adaptors are in the kit.

[@robbillpries6198]

Very grateful this people like you in this world are still willing to share knowledge and teach others things that seem simple to you that most common folk pay to have done. You sure have saved me a lot of expensive and unnecessary repair bills God bless U!!!!

[@kenwoolner8606]

I always search your videos first when looking for info. Thanks keep em coming.

[@lschnall]

I believe that I now have the courage to try it! GREAT instructional video! Awesome thanks.

[@Unite-4-Peace]

Your mechanical knowledge is superb and your videos are truly invaluable to people like myself. Thank you.

[@chinaclipper1]

I just replaced my upper and lower ball joints in my 2001 F150; well that's half right I only did the left side. I am all of a tucker just after doing it one side. I bet I watched your video about five times before I attempted to work myself. Great job, thanks for the video, I'll try the next side maybe next week.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Nice!!

[@drivera7802]

FordTechMakuloco, videos are for learning purposes and i thank you so much for yours cause I learn a whole lot, I also learn that since you were replacing the wheel hub bearing it would be wiser to take the old one off and to install the new one after the ball joint is installed and the lower arm fully in place, By doing it like that you will eliminate the extra weight, making it more easy for you to handle. Thank you man.

[@jdreaper2176]

Brian is a real professional mechanic ! Love ya 🙏

[@twageman5103]

Impressive, not a single cuss word.

[@503rpf]

HAHA!! I'm cussing and I haven't even started mine yet😂🤣😂 Starting in the morning😁

[@marcushennings9513]

Yep they make look so easy. I'm confident I would get it done eventually but my vehicle would be down way too long.

[@bobgrey5133]

I was cussing when I knew it had to be replaced, I didn't stop until after I found this video

[@evilal20]

That's why its edited lol. My 02 f150 had its brakes and tie rods done, so it should be somewhat easier

[@retrodadstl]

😆😆😆😆😆🤟🤟

[@facedeace4684]

Just did this job today on old 2003 F150. One thing I noticed is on this Ford there is a large seal on the backside of the wheel bearing hub. (My Dodge and Chev do not have). A tip that I do on reassembly is I smear a thin layer of all purpose chassis grease on the ID of that backside seal and the OD of the CV cup. I also put a light smear on the splines. Doing so makes future maintenance to the hub/CV easier. Not much. Just a thin sticky smear. Nice video. Well done.

[@noname9935]

Me and my friend owe you a beer. Thank you for this. It saved our night. We are stuck on the torsion (tension?) Bars on a 2000 ford 150. The tension key is seized on the bar. We were trying to change the control arms.

[@233monte]

I usually go for my OTC ball joint c clamp tool, but no cups will fit properly on the lower control arm of these trucks. Great video!

[@BudzillaCycles]

You have the best, straightforward videos I've found. Great job. Much appreciated.

[@paulmccown753]

Friday I was quoted 1200 bucks for lower ball joints and tie rod ends from the dealership. Wish this video would cover the 05 as well.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Paul McCown I have a general video on replacing any tie rod end and I have many videos on taking apart the front end on your generation vehicle about the only thing left is separating the knuckle from the ball joint the same as shown in this video.

[@reeblesnarfle5443]

@@FordTechMakuloco Damn, you're good! Whoo Hoo!😎👍

[@ftffighter]

I love watching your videos just to watch them...you are such an amazing teacher!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+ftffighter Thanks!

[@ozzstars_cars]

I like how you use a torque wrench to set the lug nuts properly. I always do this procedure no matter what wheel I'm working on. Even though it's more work because it's done 'by hand', it's well worth doing it right!! Take it easy- Ozz

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Ozzstar Oh yeah I am very particular about the way I do things.

[@sd90mac61]

Wow I'm surprised you didn't use a ball joint press to REMOVE it at the beginning, some of these can be very much seized when you begin to remove them off the lower control arm. Great job, thanks for sharing 👍👍

[@fergusonhr]

Also want to say, great vids...you just made my favorite section...I am also a ford mechanic and I love your attention to detail...I myself have never used a torque wrench on a ball joint or tie rod end, because of the cotter pin alignment...but you definetly get a feel for what the right torque is when aligning the slots...especially after you have used a torque wrench on other engine parts...

[@klc317]

Great video. That little 3/8 impact is pretty impressive. I have 1/2" dewalt one that does axle nuts and such with ease....valuable tool for sure. You didn't show the snap ring flying off your pliers and cussing while trying to find where it landed behind a cabinet in the garage...lol....not that its ever happened to me.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+klc317 That really doesn't happen to these they aren't that springy quite weak actually.

[@njoeandjen]

Always Excellent and professional just like i do my work, going to do my 2002 Navigator lower ball joints upper control arms for under $100 rock auto parts. Shop told me $1200 ouch glad I learned all this stuff at a young age Thanks again Makuloco!!

[@deangeorge4982]

Did was a great video for me as a new DIY. I have a 99 f150 that the previous owner really tested in like terrain racing or fun driving. I may have to replace some of the front suspension and this video helped me visual what I may need to do step by step. Now to do it. Thanks.

[@uNkNoWnTeRRor6643]

Thanks for the great video & helping me finally find what impact I should get that will keep up with jobs like this... that little 3/8 drive really puts in work..

[@justinpeters536]

FTM, you a BMF, thanks for the help. Joints, rotors, pads, and four shocks for a third of what Meinekie quoted me For the two lowers alone...awesome video.

[@alb12345672]

Those ball joints you linked to are identical to the 95-01 Explorers (up to 05 I believe sport tracs...). The procedure is very similar too. You need(well ideally) a special adapter though to press it in on the ex. Don't forget safety glasses for the snap ring!

[@PIANOSTYLE100]

I be got to do this job tomorrow. Bought all the parts and have the 200 dollar rental kit Auto Zone. I'm a woodworker so I use clamps alot. This the first one that takes off the brakes.. I will be communicating as I watch your video.

[@GriffinsFanChris]

This video is really good. I watched one yesterday where there were chickens walking around under the truck as he worked on it. Cue banjo music...

[@YoutubeStakeHolder]

What's wrong with chickens trying to make a name for themselves. Lol

[@CJFilms1001]

This is the most thorough video I have ever seen. Thanks and Happy Holidays

[@chinaclipper1]

Just finished the OTHER side yesterday, you'd think it would have been easier right? Well, as luck would have it, the tie rod end spun when I started torquing it, so, you guessed it, I had to hustle over to AutoZone to pick up the tie rod end. Naturally, they gave me the inner instead of the outer, so back to AZ again!! After that, it was all just like the video. Again, thanks for a clear, well narrated video, I think the best one out there for this procedure. It should be included in the Ford Chiltons manual! Time to get the alignment done and stick a fork in these darn ball joints...

[@tvguy12346]

Did I miss the part where the ball joint is greased? I assume it would be obvious to most people but I think I'm dumb today lol. Great videos! Use them for all of my F150 maintenance!

[@mikereed1375]

Well done video. Took your time did not look at all like you rushed any of it. Keep up the good work

[@ShredSpaghed]

Great video and commentary. And to think I was going to pull the a arm and have it pressed at the shop! Saved me some time. Thanks man.

[@2010FordFX2]

Hey Brian, the only thing I noticed was that you did not grease the new ball joint grease fitting before doing the re-install. Great video as always.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Roland Gutierrez Good catch, I did grease it once it was all back together I did forget to film that though as this one was already taking way longer to film than I wanted it to.

[@2010FordFX2]

+FordTechMakuloco I kind of thought you had greased it later, but since I didn't see it in the video I thought I'd bring it up. Nice video as always, keep up the good work.

[@tedthornton7791]

Nice and thorough instructional video as always. Thanks Happy Fording!

[@robertdavis6708]

Fun working on these rust projects? I like the way you do things!

[@frrapp2366]

I didn't have a C press so I put a 3/4in drive 2 1/2in socket on the bottom with a small roll around jack ,lifted it a little and hit on the lower arm assembly did that 4 time s or so to seat it up, liked your background music my wife was a DJ in the 80s

[@frrapp2366]

Ps. 01with 350+thousand miles on it

[@MadsWorld34]

wow forget the ball joint. its i just found someone that knows how to properly knows how to use a torque wrench. most videos i watch people will make it click 4 or 5 times. great video

[@timosness3667]

Your the man. I love watching your videos. I'm doing a lower ball joint that squeaks on my 98 f150. Hope that solves my squeak issue on mine. Cause everytime I turn or go over bumps it really squeaks loud.

[@PIANOSTYLE100]

I have a 99 Ford Expy Eddie Bower. I will be trading it soon. My Ford sounds bad when it goes over a bump in the yard. I am not really sure what some of the different parts do..

[@axehound3718]

Did it fix the squeak? Mine’s chirping like a baby bird.

[@timosness3667]

@@axehound3718 yes!

[@axehound3718]

Thanks, I have the part and going to give it a go Sunday!

[@jtgross2324]

Thanks for the video, I’ll be replacing my upper and lower ball joints tomorrow for the first time and will be using this video for reference. Very informative thank you!

[@lonewolf5094]

I know your a seasoned mechanic but I have a tip for you. Put your ball pein hammer on the hole of the ball joint and strike that hammer with your 2lb hammer.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes I know of that method too.

[@lonewolf5094]

@@FordTechMakuloco 99 f150 5.4 2v, left rear spark plug has a piece of boot broken off and cant get a socket on it. ive been trying all kinds of things to get it out to no avail. just seeing if you have any advice? thx

[@scopasbrune1009]

One of the best informative youtube vids I've seen -- taking care of 99 Explorer next weekend -- thanks

[@bigironjakesd619]

Your videos are great! I have a 02 f150 5.4 4x4 lifted. Question.....during the wheel bearing hub replacement I was not aware of the inner wheel seal in the spndle. Can you make a video on the replacement of this part? Thanks!

[@SanchoGracie]

1/2 6" bolts, washer & nuts through caliper bracket mounting bolt openings makes short work of removing stuck rotors on my 4wd Expie. Took more time to crack the caliper bolts than to crack the rotor/hub rust bond.

[@XqeDiosxqe]

Great video..... Was it just me or did he skipped or forgot to grease the lower ball joints or do they already come pre grease ???

[@fahdaftab1980]

Best video i have seen so far on car DIY jobs

[@davidmclain7756]

Wouldn't be able to keep my 97 Expedition without your help. It'd be cheaper to get rid of and just go with a newer model. But with your vids, I've been able to take care of all of my suspension issues. Do you have any "look fors" for Expeditions in the 2006-2009 range? What I mean is, if you were purchasing one in that year range, what would you definitely look to see if "______" had been replaced, or make sure that "________" service had been completed, etc.? Really can't thank you enough!

[@isaaccharles3011]

Hi ford tech Maluko I have a 2007 ford expedition what size tool do I need to remove the caliper to change my brakes great video thanks for the instruction and knowledge God bless and happy holidays

[@kennysellers211]

video was amazing, thank you sir. It was very easy to do following your video, my son even thought I knew what I was doing.

[@PIANOSTYLE100]

I know the feeling. From necessity..I've had to fix things in the family. Working on various problems in the 97 Expedition. I too am finding this to be o E of the best You tube mechanic sites.

[@morganfoster9473]

Excellent video. Lower ball joints turned into upper control arms and struts as wellVideo made it easy!

[@iamagoldengod]

This is one of the best 'how to' videos I've seen. Thank you for making it. I watched it twice and went for it. My lower ball joints were both broken and mangled. I'm curious how much money I saved. As a profession, how much would you have charged to smash out and replace these? Thanks again for the great video!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Doug Forbush I think I charge 2.5 hrs for these maybe 3.0 if doing both sides so it depends on the shop labor rate mine is nice and low for my customers at $50 an hr by contrast we used to charge almost $120 an hour at the dealer.

[@reeblesnarfle5443]

I have a 2002 F150, need a reliable mechananic I can trust 167k miles in very decent shape. (Unbent like to keep it that way!) Where are you? Like the thouroughness and competence you use! You probably drive one, judging by the signage on the wall. Nice job!

[@pauldean41]

Will the C frame press you used in this video, work on a 2012 Ford Transit Connect as well? The ball joint is pressed into the knuckle. Thanks for all your great videos.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes it should no problem it has many adapter both large and small to get the job done I love that set.

[@PIANOSTYLE100]

Good question. I am still a novice. I do enjoy fixing things.

[@alanpadgett5868]

Will be Changing ball joints on my f150. Your vid was very informative. We'll done. Thanks

[@Anony___mous]

Excellent video, you earned yourself a subscriber sir!

[@d3one3]

So after watching your video I felt confident enough to replace my upper and lower ball joints. It appears my upper control arms don't have the adjustable type camber bolts so it looks like I'll be getting the alignment adjusted. Also, both the Moog lower ball joints that I bought didn't have rubber boots on them. Does that seem normal? Thanks Edit - Looks like Moog changed the design and now some models incorporate an integrated boot, different from the traditional rubber boot :)

[@reeblesnarfle5443]

Probably a chinese influence on design....🙄 they never put it back like it was!

[@atlbike1251]

Great video!! Now how do I replace the rear lower ball joints on my 07 expedition?

[@atlbike1251]

I figured it out myself. Remove the lower strut bolt first then remove the lower ball joint, then remove the arm to replace the ball joint. Any other way and it just doesn't come out. No need to remove the brakes or the axle.

[@ManitobaNews]

Used your video to do my own ball joint at home. Not being a mechanic, it was a challenge. Thanks for this video. Nice promo for the Milwaukee drill btw, lol. We use the same ones at work. They're great. My dad was a mechanic but taught me shit. He can eat dirt now.

[@alpha2gproject783]

Curious, did you loosen the torsion bar? Looking to do this on my f150 and seem to get mixed messages. 1A auto says to and other places say not to. I'd assume with the video being a few years old I won't get a reply from the poster and I need an answer. I hate suspension work.

[@alpha2gproject783]

InternetDude I was curious about doing that. With how much banging and wiggling you have to do, I have a bit of apprehension about supporting the lower a arm. I haven't done them yet but I'm researching how so when I do get a day or two to do it, I have all I need to do it safely. I can't stand the fact that every shop I've talked to wants 600 plus to do it and I'm starting to wonder if it's only because they actually have to bust some knuckles instead of trying to upsell you on the oil change special.

[@Comm0ut]

I leave the tie rods connected if not replacing then and support the spindle on whatever is handy like an upside-down bucket or wooden blocks since they swing forward and out of the way. On a lift a motorcycle tiedown holds them nicely.

[@bbdennis38]

Thanks for the detailed video FordTech. I'm a novice mechanic attempting to replace the lower ball joints on my own. Does this procedure apply to '02 Explorer XLT 2WDs also? If so, do I have to remove the caliper and upper control arm? Saw another video where a mechanic recommended leaving them on and turning the wheel to the right, I guess to allow more workroom. Thanks.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Bobby Dennis The caliper must be removed to remove the knuckle and get to the lower ball joint but the upper stays attached to the car the knuckle must be removed. The explorer is very similar to these.

[@bbdennis38]

Thanks.!

[@FLaDave351]

Thank you Bro, great job, great attention to detail, glad you did a 4 x 4, thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@PIANOSTYLE100]

How do actually isolate problems in the suspension. I have a lot of jacks and Jack stands. Can you give me a link to one your videos that starts with basics? There may be others that would benefit from that.

[@Wilj05]

Great vid, thanks man. I know that I have to replace my rear passenger side ball joint, but mines is making the clunking sound and also a loud squeaking noise when going over bumps. Do you think that is the lower control arm bushings? Should I just replace the whole control arm? Thanks. 2003 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4L.

[@themeatstall9001]

Outstanding video brother. Very instructional

[@lkitch]

Great video man! Saved me a $600 labor bill. What grease would you use in the joint if you serviced it in the future?

[@rickhutson4564]

Great video and you had the right music playing in the background!

[@fixitright9709]

U should always inspect the tapers in the steering knuckle for damage especially if the old ball joint stud was loose, seen many woulard out tapers, could snap the new joints stud, makes for a bad day down the road.

[@fergusonhr]

I just did the tierod end at the pitman arm on my 2002 f250 4x4 and it would not pop loose by hiting it on the side until I heated the end of the pitman arm with map gas for about 1 minute...2 hits and she popped right off...hopefully that will help someone else that is haveing troubles and does not have a pickle fork...

[@Hpneal]

Should you lube the splines or the hub during assembly?

[@mannyfaces3631]

Great vid over the last few months ive learned so much from you thank you

[@raulr249]

When doing this ball joint repair can we go ahead and do a upper arm repalcement?

[@stevencampbell1557]

for what they cost, i always say if you replace one, then you replace the other as well.

[@bejomba]

Awesome videos... i replaced the lower ball, upper ball joint arm, after i lower the the jack after everything is tight, it's turning left no problem but it is binding to the right... while I have the arm/suspension on the Jack it turns perfect but after a lower it it's binding! Any idea why? Seem like it's something with the upper arm! It is after market but it is supposed to fit on my 2001 F150 2wd 🤷‍♂️

[@MAGWolf]

Looks like I gonna be having fun doing this again. Be the third F150 I do this on. Wish I had a garage :P

[@tammywilson2178]

I do lots of work on my truck but not sure I'm going to try this. I would need to buy tools I don't have. hey how bad was the old one?

[@raulluna9319]

After replacing both uper and lower ball joints, even on one side, do I need and aligment? Great video by the way. Thanks!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes you do

[@raulluna9319]

@@FordTechMakuloco thanks man, I apreciate the help.hey this is the first time in the 15 years or so that I own this ford that I'm looking at this stuff what will be the order of replacment obyously the ball joints are shut they also say the tie rods but they dont look to bad. If I want to start doing all the rigth things were do I start? .

[@Elevation100]

great video. But my 99 f150 has coil spring running onto lower control arm...how do I release tension?

[@Dirtyharry70585]

My tip on those rotors is to hand grind the lip off while rotating the rotor my hand. A small 4" type works great and only takes a few seconds, you'll never fight the rotor/pad again!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Dirtyharry70585 Good tip but what about the rust ridge on the backside? With the front side ground is there now enough clearance to slide them on and off still?

[@Dirtyharry70585]

+FordTechMakuloco Do them both. Wear eye protection! Maybe Milwaukee will give you one of their battery operated ones, that would be great, no plugs for the remote fix. The big boxes have the grinding disc cheap.

[@williampbranham2134]

I have a 2002 gmc yukon xl 1500 slt flex fuel: I'm replacing upper control arm, lower ball joint, pitman arm, idler arm and bracket and innner and outer tie rod ends; my question is how to find the torque specs for the nuts and bolts of each? I've search the internet but no answers. thanks for your video! it was great. thanks

[@irishladd63]

I guess with your help from this video,it looks like I need to invest in some tools and DIY

[@irishladd63]

I was going to ask you about Spring Compressors. On the Ford which one do you prefer, Outside vs Internal. I am leaning on replacing the lower control arm also ,just because it it there for the taking. The Eternal looks cumbersome

[@daniramos2689]

love the detail and step by step on your video good work keep it up .

[@curtisimo032]

"Make sure your nuts are clean" - FordTechMakuloco 2015

[@MarkViecelli-sf5bk]

Ive been beating the frot ball joint out of the control bar 3 hrs it doesn come out with a c press either now ive never took still in there it pondsvup no problem try to go out barely moves

[@MarkViecelli-sf5bk]

I dont knoq 2 yrs ago i replace all bought new controlls hubs everyfjng so thisbtinme decided just replace balll joint it justwont pressoutnot even with a hammer the ball joint looks like agear got any ideas no weld i even ground the top off?,;:#:

[@bounthavynonginthirath1917]

Where is the fuelpump driver module for 1998 ford expedition 4.6L V8, ? I looked on top by the spare tire,but I didn't see it,thanks

[@paulfiebke3909]

Keep up good work and thanks for your time showing us

[@jjmcq2327]

Oh crap I am getting that impact driver.

[@shebasteelman4468]

Thank you so much for the help you saved me over 600$ for labor

[@kevinhawley8803]

Just used your other video to change the wheel bearing. Thanks for the help!

[@whitetiger8652]

I Enjoy your videos Brian.

[@KittenBand]

That will keep your name a live forever like a hero 🙏🏻