Ford Quick Tips #73: Quickly Diagnose a Sticking Brake Caliper w/ One Simple Test

In this video we go over a few tips you can use to quickly diagnose a sticking disc brake caliper.
If you find the caliper is sticking follow this video here to replace it right- • Ford Brake Caliper Rep...
A good set of line wrenches is a must-
amzn.to/2osakFB
When replacing a Caliper it's best to get a complete unit w/ bracket so it's all new-
amzn.to/2o1tzF1
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

If you find the caliper is sticking follow this video here to replace it right- kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqvFiYGDqp56rdk A good set of line wrenches is a must- amzn.to/2osakFB When replacing a Caliper it's best to get a complete unit w/ bracket so it's all new- amzn.to/2o1tzF1

[@rickie__bobbie]

FordTechMakuloco I have a none related question. Just couldn't find a way to direct message you. I have a 2008 f150. The shifter won't shift out of park when I press the brake pedal. Sometimes it works. Most of the time it doesn't. I've taken it to ford and apparently their techs are stumped and have no clue. Any advice? How can I donate to you? Thanks.

[@danjordan5827]

Rickie Bobbie I've had same problem sounds like shift interlock/brake light switch try Google search.

[@Jayhoyt32]

Ok, first of all, love your channel. For a Ford guy, this channel is a must subscribe for sure. Now, I have a 2007 Taurus, and I've had an issue of a soft, sometimes almost going to the floor, brake pedal for a couple months. I figured it probably just needed bled, but never found the time to get that done. Now, today the brakes went all the way to the floor while I was stopped at a red light and the car started moving forward and I couldn't stop it even with pushing the pedal as hard as I could. So I got the car home, and bled the brakes, but it didn't make a difference. So I'm assuming I need a new master cylinder, and of course I came here looking for a video, but can't find it. Do you have a video on master cylinder replacement? It would be greatly appreciated as the car is down until I get this done.

[@svernwarunos546]

FordTechMakuloco the best ford quick tip you can give people is not to buy a crappy ford the escape i have is going to be my last ford ever.

[@rickeymitchell8620]

FordTechMakuloco great video! a friend of mine has a 2005 ford 500 with brake problems. its abs and has hardly any stopping power. master cylinder is full of fluid but when he bled the brakes, there was no fluid at the front passenger side bleed screw. any ideas Brian?

[@SMACK3R]

"like a fricken pretzel!" these videos are solid gold for f150 repairs, love the channel.

[@JNMalyon]

Great video, very helpful. Helped me diagnose a collapsed brake line on the wife's car this evening after replacing the caliper. Pressed the brakes to check for fluid squirting out at the bleed valve and noticed there was almost zero fluid. Removed the brake line and found you could not blow through it. New brake line and now it's all good!

[@rickbraden4272]

Thanks for using enough light so we can see what needs to be seen. You're the Man.

[@deibert1]

i cannot thank you enough. i just put on new calipers, rotors and pads yesterday and had a new caliper stick. i went through the steps you just showed and bingo stuck caliper

[@Gameboy4702]

Dang you answered all my questions and put me on the right path to fixing my problem. In a very comprehensive way and under 7 min, you've made my day. Thanks

[@0ptimal]

Wow man, this is by far the best brake sticking video I've found. The step by step process of elimination was so helpful and exactly what I needed.

[@slewke]

thanks! i have twisted a hose before and it does rob performance. i didnt even think of checking the line pressure release. its those little tips and tricks that i appreciate the most

[@x-man5056]

There's usually a line dyed into them lengthwise to serve as a visual. When they are old, it can be hard to see though.

[@theoldwizard998]

If you have uneven brake pad wear, I have often found that there are 2 potential causes. Slide pin to caliper bore too tight. Sometimes these can even "freeze". The slide pins need to be SHINEY clean ! Use a Scotch Bright or very fine emery cloth or run a wire wheel across them. It is difficult to clean the caliper slide pin bore hole. Hose it out with brake cleaner then use a tight roll of emery cloth to try and polish the inside. If you can not EASILY slide the pin all the way in and out even after it is lubed, it is still too tight. Second, is rust UNDER the stainless steel shims. Scotch Bright, emery cloth, wire wheel. Get then as clean as possible and then coat that area with caliper grease. Last, it you have had "premature"/uneven brake pad wear on the same wheel, bite the bullet. Get a reman caliper, but purchase one WITH THE MOUNTING BRACKET AND SLIDE PINS INCLUDED ! I have found this is the ONLY sure cure. After 3 replacement sets of good quality ceramic rear brake pads on my 2007 Fusion in under 90k, this solved the problem.

[@jnblawnandlandscapellc]

How do you prevent that issue? My dad had problems with his '06 6.0 and now just spent 3 hours to pull that slide pin after it froze on his '17 f250. The inside brake pads on the front were worn down to metal while the outsides were like new.

[@splash5974]

Great vid! To the point, and good camera skills, making it easy for people to understand

[@jamiegodden3241]

Yet again you have me pointed in the right direction with a simple explanation. Your personally keeping me on budget with my Ford repairs. Please keep it up.

[@cgavin1]

Great video! In my experience its nearly always the caliper guide pins sticking. Disassembly and copious amounts of grease always solves it. Especially in wet climates. :) I have never had a caliper piston seal go bad. I have seen them go plenty manky but never leak or seize. I'm sure they do but disproportionately its the pins.

[@MrThorMNFinest]

Be careful on the grease! I learned the hard way if you put too much grease on the pins you can hydraulically lock the pins in place. Imagine

[@spelunkerd]

Nice review, clear direction. I have a laser thermometer, which makes it easy to see if one disc is hotter compared to the other side. The one time I tried to rebuild a caliper it lasted a year and then needed to be replaced. My mistake, I should have replaced it in the first place.

[@kylewoodward7078]

Best damn mechanic on KZbin. I watch all his videos. Even beginner stuff because he shows you good tips.

[@jdaniels1313]

Thank you, the shop told us we needed new wheel bearings, but replacing the stuck caliper on that side resolved the problem, now the bearings seem fine. Yes, did the other caliper too, of course :-)

[@ronaldcach2779]

Great video, you saved me again. My caliper was sticking on my 2006 ranger 2 wd. THANKS FRIEND

[@jimmyleblanc4318]

Wow!! For such a short video I absorbed a ton of information plus outstanding troubleshooting tips. Goes without saying, you're an awesome instructor. Thanks

[@drewsmith6066]

I fixed a sticking piston easy with WD40 and pumped the piston in and out , worked a treat after a bit

[@roberts5858]

You're a really great teacher

[@Clare.1985]

Thank you! I did a 4 wheel brake job for my father and mother in law on their 04 explorer 4x4 and the rear driver wheel is sticking so bad it's got the brand new rotor damn near red hot. When I tested it after the work it was completely fine. Worked as it should. Yesterday about 1 month after the job she came in from work and that rotor was smoking. Brake dust all over the wheel. Very obvious what had happened. Today I'm going to pull the wheel back off and do the diagnosis you just shared with us. Thank you!

[@saturnoL]

I have seen customers with brand new calipers put on and 1 week later the problem still there!! Happens to be the brake hose shrunken inside! Good video!!

[@Richard5873]

What company sells best brake line that connects to caliper ?

[@DS-ss7vl]

Wagner

[@FODVAPOR]

Thank you! I've watched a ton of vids to diagnose my issue and was unaware of the bleeder / brake line diagnosis test. Keep up the good work !

[@pi1797]

Very helpful. I am working on a car I will be eventually owning. One of my parents cars. An 02 Lincoln LS 3.9 V-8. It has brake issues. Low pedal. We had it our mechanic for over a week. He couldn’t find the problem. I was driving it the other day an felt through the steering wheel a light vibration when accelerating on the highway. Maybe went on for a minute or so then stopped. Then the brake pedal was very firm. Stopped at a you squirt em car wash. Felt the wheel in the front end. Very, very hot, but not hot enough to burn my hand. I had been driving in rain. My thought being now it is a caliper either seizing up or getting ready to seize up. This helps me very much to do a quick test on it to determine if that is what it really is. Thank you very much for your awesome videos.

[@jimjoyce6295]

2010 Ford Escape - sticking caliper - replace the flex hose to the caliper - solved the issue.

[@trini_boi2414]

I think this is the best video on dragging brakes I've seen straight to the point and we'll put together thanks👍

[@gpitt1960]

This guy is awesome and get to the point. Thank you so much for providing this video. Greg in Tuscumbia Alabama

[@josephbarrerareyes]

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us. This video is more than useful, right now I have that problem with my 2010 f150 4x4, and this has helped me tremendously. thanks from California.

[@mikebavoso26]

Very good information. Step by step, just what we need to find the trouble.

[@wishbone54]

Great tip about isolating the problem with the bleeder screw.

[@martinlavoie4002]

Another thing to add sometimes the slider pins are bent it the carrier is warped. When the piston are retracted and the caliber bolts are tight to the sliders and the caliber does not move, then you loosen the caliper bolts to the sliders and it now moves freely most likely the pins are bent or the carrier is warped. I have come across this in my travels. Just something else to add to the sticking diagnosis

[@Branhawk]

Good quality video. My truck has a brake rubbing sound that I can’t visually see anything wrong with it so now guessing calipers thanks

[@x-man5056]

I went through 3 rebuilt calipers from NAPA before I could find one the wouldn't leak at the banjo fitting. 3 flex hoses also. They where good about it though. When you get a caliper or hose that uses a banjo fitting, make sure the surface is prepped correctly. On the caliper where the banjo fitting mounts, there should be a "spotface", a round machined flat spot with no paint but it should also have 2 circular ridges in the spotface. The first caliper I got was in "as cast" condition, no spot face at all! second one had a spotface but no ridges. 2 of the hoses had the spot face but no circular ridges. Such is the adventure of working on vehicles.

[@RamboDeFelice]

Awesome video thanks for helping us backyard mechanics lol

[@kevinc9006]

Mine just start jerking the steering wheels and smoking like hell...so I figured it was sticking

[@mick5740]

Same here. 06 front drivers. Wondering if this is a pump thing or what ??

[@mick5740]

Mine too. 06. Pulling to left and then smoking like hell. Was stuck. I took apart. Slide pins were fairly sticky. Bottom one was pretty stuck. Cleaned and relubed Well see if that was all the problems

[@jostevens9955]

You may have a warped rotor as well

[@hiitsstillme]

A great primer review for us, thank you!

[@ReclusiveMountainMan]

Another great video resource! Thanks, Brian.

[@daze023]

One more thanks. I recently (mileage wise) changed pads, discs, and fluid to fix sticking front brakes. Next time I needed the truck the brakes were squealing at idle speed Now I can check for bad calipers

[@vernonroach918]

Good filming and excellent instruction.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Vernon Roach Thanks!!

[@rogerl8488]

I have a 2011 an the driver side gave me problems changed two calipers so far now the passenger is sticking!! But now I know how to check to see if I have a line collapsing!!! Thankyou

[@gsmass7767]

so if i open the bleeder screw and everything is ok...do I have to bleed the brakes afterward?

[@LamborghiniReven1000]

No

[@fullmindstorm]

Yes, on that side that you opened, just have someone pump the brakes open and close quickly to let the air out, do that 5 times and you should be good.

[@younggun3678]

My 1997 F150 single cab Lariat 5 speed is doing the same thing as in the video and I couldn't figure out what was causing the caliper to stick but now I know what could be the problem. Oh and my ABS light is on ever since the caliper started to stick

[@spudthegreaterusa8386]

on my third set of rear calipers, passenger rear. line is good just bad pistons in caliper. last set was from a different manufacturer, so hopefully 3rd time is a charm. 2006 F250 4x4 5.4 super cab.

[@ibberman]

Great video, only wish you had gone to next step as I am a newbie. Thank you.

[@FishFind3000]

I did a temp check after noticing one wheel had much more brake dust. Passenger caliper was ~70° drivers was 230°. I think it’s sticking/stuck.

[@Pro1er]

I know that this is an old video but I had a sticking brake on a brand new caliper today. I tested for friction before and after putting the wheel on and there was no problem. A short test drive and one brake was smoking. I jacked the car back up and there was no friction when turning the wheel so I referred to KZbin. Some guy posted a video from 2014 with the same problem, turns out it was the clamp that you are pointing to with your middle finger at 3:39. I have no idea why but it seems like that clamp can eventually restrict the flow of the brake fluid, he said it was from the rust build up pinching the hose, (I don't know if that's true or not). I used a flat bar to ever, ever so slightly open up that clamp where is holds the hose and that solved the problem. Hope this helps someone else.

[@Excitable101]

had a dragging front left on my 04 fx4, pulled the caliper and a nice chunk of my rear piston came out, didn't have a replacement so had to wait till the next day. picked up the new caliper and as i re took it apart a chunk of the front piston fell out. yeah fun times.

[@hawaiianf1504]

Brian Great Tips and Tricks!! Thanks man. Hey, while watching the video I noticed the truck end links seem odd. At first it seems as though they haven't been greased or serviced in a very, very long time. Check out the condition of the end links at the 3:04 time stamp. Only reason I'm mentioning this is b/c I have been surfing for research tips on this and have found that many ford pickups have the same failures. I am replacing mine this weekend along with the cracked sway bar bushings. FoMoCo replacement parts are ridiculously expensive and they don't come with predrilled zerk fitting holes. I have to admit that finding the right endlinks was a bit of a challenge because I managed to get the last two on the island. Shows you how fast they sell out over here. A word to the wise is make sure you specify RWD or 4 wheel drive when buying and triple check the parts in the box. RWD end links are 224.7mm while the 4WD are over 240mm. I don't know if the extra length on the 4WD part affects the RWD trucks but if Ford says to use the 224.7mm on RWD end links then that's good enuff for me.

[@tylerwillison4962]

My 2018 Raptor pass side is hanging up. Good vid thanks.

[@markw4382]

60 yrs old,...OLD Wrencher, Test tips are GREAT, especially the 1st. drip or squirt,....

[@scorpio3x3]

I didn't see this mentioned here, if it was, sorry. On my 12 F150 my left front rotor was 375 degrees after a drive and it felt like I was pulling a trailer. I found the brake hose clamp was rusting and crushing the brake line. Follow the brake line from the caliper up about 5". You can see it clearly at 3:05 of the video about the 12 o'clock position on the screen, very top edge. Spread that clamp with a crowbar, I spread it just enough to slide the hose out. Tap out all the rust and inspect the line. If the line is good, put it back in and tap/tighten the clamp with a hammer just enough to hold it in there. Now my hose slides freely but won't escape. Brakes work fine after doing this. Road salt sucks!!!

[@jeremytalley9575]

Thanks for all you do, you are a weath of knowledge.

[@AndrewIrizarry]

@FordTechMakuloco, I'm having Drag but my pistons move freely with pressure applied as if I am doing a pad change. What do you think? I pressed them back in, and the wheel moved fine. I applied small amount of lube to the slide pins that move freely and to the new brackets so the pads will move as well.

[@lordchango7949]

What did it end up being?

[@Agsgutters1]

Great video. What else could it be if it was not the caliper hoses or splitter block?

[@brentmaveric4981]

Thanks for the video nice clean English that I understand and good video the camera was right onto the part I appreciate that and you weren't going too fast I'm new at this I'm going to subscribe to your channel just because of those pluses

[@turkey0165]

Thanks for the Information I bought a bronco two that has been sitting for 12 years and the brakes are frozen in the front and rear got a good idea what the problem is now!

[@dangerdavefreestyle]

I wouldn't put a refurbished caliper on there. I'd get the oem kit and fix it. Alot of that autozone crap is just slapped together and has a coat of black spray paint over dirt and grease. Nobodys going to take the time to do it all right like I will.

[@workingshlub8861]

good tip brian..sometimes the rubber flex line goes bad on the inside and its hard to tell cause it looks fine.

[@ukexbreakdownman]

well explained important to make these checks before you change parts

[@based_will]

Good tip in checking the bleed screw. Tackling my stuck breaks tomorrow. My one wheel is so bad it just slides along the ground in reverse 😂

[@foxbodyguyeightyeight3672]

I usually change both the caliper and flex lines because if the caliper has been sticking really badly the heat will cause flex hose damage and cause failure sooner than later anyway it's not worth not changing both. And yes I know some people are going to say oh well I'm on a budget but if it locks up again you just cooked the seals of the caliper you put on and heat scored the rotor again aswell so your not saving any money.

[@jasondaigle6887]

Right on i injoy watching your videos also is it the same for the back I noticed that on mine but it seems to be only in the morning in reverse,I replaced the breaks about a month and a hafe ago in California then moved to Oklahoma and just about last week this started if you can let me know I appreciate what you du thank you

[@MrChancebandit]

Just so you know I have a 2010 f150 and had a brake caliper seize up on me ....-40 doing 100km/hr ripped the seal on the caliper when I went to slow down for a town ....pissed out all the brake fluid and my foot went to the floor ..I got it slowed down in time luckily ...limped it into to town and got it repaired. Don't let this issue go unattended for long. It can kill you

[@natronkosmos4627]

Thanks for spreadin the knowledge buddy. This vid ansered all my questions and i did the work myself and saved hundreds of dollars

[@johnyu-eh4id]

If I don't know how to fix my 2014 mustang, this is the number 1 place I'll come to check.

[@monkeybarmonkeyman]

Gosh.. sure wish you'd have given a couple recommendations on caliper remanufacturers if you were buying for your own vehicle.

[@axesandalcohol3776]

Awesome videos so clear and informative. Well done!

[@rickbraden4272]

Very Good Explanation

[@camerontaylor4220]

2011 F150 4x4 I have replaced everything in the front brakes rotors calipers and caliper brackets and the brakes not not seem to release not twisted lines. Once they get hot i dont even have to apply brake peddle pressure to stay stopped at a stop sign.

[@JPAutoService]

when heating to remove a bleeder it is important to note that you need heat the caliper where the bleeder theads in not the bleeder itself. If you heat the bleeder, it weakens it and expands it and will usually result in a broken bleeder. A few taps with a hammer on the caliper also helps break it loose just like a ball joint/tie rod separation.

[@jeydub8541]

good video man. But what about the guide pins? That is a common problem, and practically free to fix yourself. Just sayin.

[@albertandrews130]

My theory is that the car wash washes the grease out of the bottom pins

[@FishFind3000]

Albert Andrews they should have a rubber boot that seals then grease in.

[@DeadofWinter321]

My first car, a ‘02 Ford Focus, had this problem. At the time, I didn’t know what it was. I’d be on the interstate then all of a sudden the car would start slowing down and I’d pull over, wait anywhere between 10-30 minutes for it to “unstick” and then went on about my way. Only thing then was the brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before “catching” the car. Had new pads and rotors, both had less than 20K miles on them and the car had 180K miles (maybe that was the problem?). I miss that thing, never did break down and leave me completely stranded.

[@ezrahinkley6132]

Most helpful video, and I'm not even working on a ford, thanks!

[@454lando]

Amazing vide man, thank you!

[@Sneakydevil247]

Great video thank you for making it straight to the point with awesome trouble shooting information 👏👏👏

[@sweetbread9008]

My Bronco seems to only have an issue when it’s hot outside. The rear antilock light comes on every once in awhile and the rear end has gotten so hot I had to pull over and wait for the smoke to clear. Thankful I didn’t burn it to the ground.

[@petermac6245]

yes!!! thankyou I have a stuck guide pin! now I have to work out how to unstuck it lol

[@mrpeterpumpkin48]

Helpful! Thank you.

[@multibucker]

Super valuable information, thank you!

[@eladionunez2032]

Very detailed troubleshoot. Great job!

[@Mrdubomb]

I love these videos, just when i think I know everything, you teach me a little more. I am a tech up here in the rust belt, we are besides ourselves in frustration over quality reman supply, 50% of our product is bad out of the box, they either leak (10%) , pad clack from sloppy fit in the brackets (20%) or pistons wont release properly. (70%) Buying new from dealer isnt an option due to the price, and sometimes all they have is the same stuff we can get, just without the warranty. is there something going on with the rubber? any insight? Help!

[@Hawlkeye-e9p]

Not hand made and tested. These calipers may have been remanned 10 times before you get it. Million a day shipped. Luck of the draw unless you pay for hand crafted and pre tested. Its literally impossible.

[@f1otero]

2003 ford explorer RWD. The front axle caliper glide pins are different with one of them having a short rubber sleeve at the end of it - I have read it is called the locking pin? Does it matter what position (top or bottom) this pin goes? many thanks for your great videos

[@64maxpower]

You were an incredible help. Thanks

[@MrGigi-dz9cv]

If your brakes stick after changing brakefluid, that is due to dirt contamination in the brake system. The brake system is insanely sensitive to any dirt going in from the outside. Even when you open the valve from caliper or drum, a small amount of dirt will go in by the thread so, as much as i try to have a clean fluid inside the sistem, the system is just building up dirt. None of the methods of bleeding brakes really worked for me, so i can get a clean system. Sticking occurs especially at the drums, since i have drums in the back. I ended up with replacing the brake cylinders.

[@5400bowen]

Try cleaning off the area before doing any work. This is a usually ignored premise to all mechanical work, but especially brakes, transmission and engine. Clean, clean, clean. I used to work at a machine shop in San Diego that did all the work for the city bus system.

[@OZD-mb2bs]

I went thru deep water and started having this issue. Pulled everything apart and greased guide pins. Seems to be working now.

[@pastorlugo121]

Always a pleasure watching your didactic videos. Thanks.

[@amonronin8759]

Keep in mind a front wheel drive car will sometimes seem like its got drag on it....also make sure car in neutral.

[@denniswilkinson1118]

Great tip. Thanks Brian!

[@Backfire10]

Question for you Sir or those that may know... 2009 6.4 F250 Hydroboost system 4x4: Put new pads, rotors, calipers, and hoses on my truck as part of 100 mile mantainance. Pulled out of the drive way after that and no brakes(straight to floor), bleed again, no brakes. Replaced Master Cylinder twice with the correct one for hydroboost. The brakes do work really good, but after 2 miles, the Front brakes Locked up... Relaced all above again .. but learned that if I unboltedthe master cylinder just about 3/16 of an inch from Hydroboost all the front brakes free up. What is my problem.. ? Your suggestions are much apprecaited.

[@valde3336]

Unfortunately most of time that the caliper is sticking the brake bleeder seems to be rusted in the place too. That makes this test bit harder to do.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Valde333 I have found just a little heat from a map gas torch does the trick every time.

[@theoldwizard998]

MAPP gas has not been manufactured for several years. Check Wikipedia. What is sold in yellow bottle is MAPP Pro, a substitue that is not much hotter than prone. Use propane or go buy a acetylene (without oxygen) rig like plumbers and HVAC guys use.

[@kevinc9006]

Valde333 yep broke mine😵

[@oby-1607]

Whaaa! I can still buy Mapp gas anywhere. Napa, big box hardware.

[@carlodonnell146]

I replaced the flex lines calipers about 8 or 10 yrs ago...now im having brake overheating again......I suppose the flexlines could be bad again in that time could they? I did the test it seems to be the line..if i got the test right.....

[@qrs_tuv1925]

i'll need to replace caliper on 2000 integra, not thrilled about using parts stores, what would you recommend. thanks

[@isaacalvarado1643]

what is the next step when you eliminate the calliper? pressure was built up in my rear calliper when I tested like the video recommended.

[@barrybebenek8691]

Awesome info bro. Thanks for this. (Found this in good time, for my Marauder). 😊👍🏼

[@livenfree]

So should my assistant should have the break pedal pumped up and to the floor when opening the bleeder to test fluid pressure?

[@michaelwagner2791]

Thanks great video, gonna get after it tonight

[@thelibertarian7381]

Hey all you ford owners share and subscribe with all ford friends. Another treasure trove of info. Your my quintessential go-to for my 2013 fx4.

[@lowridingtrucks88]

Cool = Thanks, much appreciated, keep up the good work, just what I needed.👍

[@Pendragon501]

Under pressure or not, if you crack open any bleeder, flooded is going to come dribbling out. That doesn't automatically mean there's a problem with your caliper. The same thing would happen on a brand new car.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Right, like I said in the video it would shoot out. Am I missing something here, are you just restating what was said in the video for some reason. Let me know thanks.

[@crcdesign9886]

great tip...any tips on finding seized/dragging calipers when the bleeder doesn't open?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Most bleeders will come lose with a map gas torch but worst case scenario you can loosen then banjo bolt to test it the same way. In reality you can just retighten the banjo after without replacing the washers too you just need to tighten it a bit more.

[@iantruhn3673]

Thanks for the video, we've done all that, and still not fixing the problem, we're 3 calipers deep into this (trying ones from different manufacturers), but to no avail. Any suggestions?

[@qrs_tuv1925]

excellent diagnostic path, many thanks