Ford 5.0L Coyote Engines: The Best Way to Extract Broken Ignition Coil Bolts in Plastic Valve Covers

In this video we show you how to extract broken rusted bolts from plastic car parts. One of the most common areas this happens is the Ford 5.0L Coyote Ignition coil bolts. Check it out and tell me what you think!
These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend:
5.0l Coyote Ignition Coil Bolts P/N- W714507S437
Anti Seize-
amzn.to/31y5qIL
Mini Torch-
amzn.to/2PIFyXY
The original 5.0L Spark Plug Replacement Video-
• 2011-2017 Ford F-150 &...
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
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ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend: 5.0l Coyote Ignition Coil Bolts P/N- W714507S437 Anti Seize- amzn.to/31y5qIL Mini Torch- amzn.to/2PIFyXY The original 5.0L Spark Plug Replacement Video- kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWbSmauPl8idpaM As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@mickgriff6668]

Have a question but nothing to do with video. I bought a 05 ford f150 5.4 3 valve motor everything is good when I first crank it, but when it get to operating temp an come to a stop oil pressure drops to low but while driving its fine. I changed the oil pump with high pressure oil pump any thoughts?

[@Cattlerest]

I know this has nothing to do with your post here. Love your videos. I've got a 2012 ford f150 with the 5.0 coyote engine lots of folks have the same problem with low oil pressure lightning on in drive when you stop idle drops to 500 rpms from about 550 when in park. In park it will run no problem no light. Truck is fine first 10 or 15 minutes driving then ya get the low oil pressure light every time you stop. I'm wondering if a higher viscosity oil will help. Or if it would help or if possible to raise the rpms so it will stay above 500 in drive? I simply haven't seen any videos that address this issue other then the oil pressure switch where in all cases the switch was wet with oil from an internal leak. I dont have that. Very difficult to get to on a 4x4. I'm a do it yourselfer. Sorry for the long spill. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[@Hawaiian.808]

Hey sorry for being off topic. Iam trying to look for a fix on a 2003 6.0L excursion Diesel trubo I can start the truck up no problem gas it fine in park. When I shifted in the drive or reverse I step on the gas and the truck has a lack of power. Truck will not go passed 10 mile per hour. no codes because the two batteries were dead replaced already.

[@ja7941]

Hi I need your help please I have a 2010 Ford Mustang 4.0 V6. There is something wrong with my clutch and someone told me it was a Hydraulic clutch know I don’t know much about hydraulic clutch is but I know you have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor just to get it to engage in first gear or to get it into reverse once you were driving it switches gears OK I don’t have to be all the way to the floor to switch the gears it’s only in first and only when I’m switching to reverse so I don’t know what to do can you please help thank you love your channel

[@Hawaiian.808]

@@ja7941 so what are you saying you can push the clutch in and you can only shift to reverse and first gear?

[@jeffbrown3963]

Honey, before we leave on vacation, I'm going to change the spark plugs real quick! It'll only take a minute!

[@timsouttahere]

😳

[@DLITINTHEHOUSE]

Literally me before my last vacation. Luckily none of those bolts snapped but one of the stupid coil plug clips broke. Got a couple zip ties holding it on now!

[@thomaslang8826]

@@DLITINTHEHOUSE they are super easy to replace, I replaced all 8, and I was able to rebuild the connector by removing the wires from it, rather than cut and splice

[@DLITINTHEHOUSE]

@@thomaslang8826 oh ok. Thanks for the tip.

[@infotechsailor]

This was me helping a buddy change plugs at my house. This won't take long! One of the boots broke apart during coil removal. Hope you got a pair of 10 inch needle nose pliers! Or some giant chopsticks

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

NOTE TO SELF - Remove ALL Coil Bolts and add Anti Seize!!! 😲

[@lite566]

Might as well replace them with new bolts if you gonna take them out

[@markk3652]

I just completed this job, all 8 bolts threaded out perfectly without any drama. Corrosion had started on numbers 3 and 7 just like the video shows. Mine is a 2011 XLT supercrew with the 5.0 and 81,000 miles.

[@ozzstars_cars]

Duly noted.

[@Airman..]

Junk them get so SS bolts and call it

[@richdelgatto2522]

The bolt broke from corrosion near the top.

[@marymcdonald709]

I just wanted to thank mr.Ford tech.I’m a 65 yr old women and thanks to your clear instructions I changed out the window regulator on my Ford Expedition.You saved me a lot a money,which is tight at my age.Next week I’m tackling changing out the actuator with your videos help.So again Thank you and keep making videos you are helping a lot of people.

[@crazeguy26]

YEAH! woop! woop!

[@tyalbert5063]

Nice

[@lakeshoreelectric]

I always love seeing the coyote content since I own one.....but it also makes me feel good that I don't see a lot of coyote content on here LOL...

[@bryanh2526]

At the dealership we've replaced loads of valve covers because of this problem. Now i know there's an option. Thanks!

[@stevesutton5498]

Use never seize when put the bolt back in. Great stuff!

[@bobmartens1089]

I've been a Ford f150 owner since 2004 and you have helped me complete all my own repairs and maintenance!! Did all the oils in my driveway last year and no issues and was fun, everyone else thinks I'm nuts😅. Saved tons of money, means beer fund is doing well..... Love your channel!!!!!

[@Justin-uy5zr]

Can literally find anything you need with this guy!!

[@arturozarate1752]

I happen to have a bulk supply of those inserts from another job, and I've been fortunate for that. I've had to repair the customer damaged valve cover and install a new insert. I've seen melted, chiseled, and air hammered attempts. All suffering damaged covers. Great info and video on a good repair! 20 years doing driveability for Ford dealers has seen a lot. Good to know that there are other great technicians out there still willing to do the work that keeps us on the good side of the paying customer. Thank you for sharing!

[@tlctinkerin5196]

That mini-ductor has been on my wish list for many years now!

[@kylecooper1790]

Wow. You uploaded this just in time! Just broke two on my 2012. Thank you! Why Ford why?

[@nemideergoon1844]

I just learned on an older video that you were military. Just wanted to jump on your latest video and let yoh know my appreciation for your service. Take care. All original 07 expedition with 300k

[@joelbrown890]

Really appreciate this video! You saved me as I had no idea what to do. My back #8 broke off and I couldn't really even get a good vise grips in there. It took me a little longer than you but I got it and it is all back together good as new with stainless screws now! Thanks a lot!

[@YNTGUNS]

We all wish that when we take our cars to the shop, we get a tech like you! 👍

[@danvonrichthofen6173]

I got a cheap Chinese induction heater from Amazon and this technique worked flawlessly. Thank you so much for your help

[@moretackle1]

Thanks!!! My Ford dealer broke my screw and never replaced it. There is nothing but dirt holding one of my coils down. 🙈 Hopefully, I have part of the screw sticking out.

[@raisingcane225]

Great video. I’d also replace every one of those hold down bolts with stainless steel bolts and still use plenty of anti seize.

[@petermenzies1834]

I could not get the inserted piece to hold even after three tries. I eventually used a bolt with the head facing down and three nuts tightened up to the head which I heated and set in the valve cover (threads up). After cooling it was rigid and I tightened the coil down with another nut on the top side to secure it. Thanks For proving me the information I needed to make this fix.

[@taylormurphy5221]

Wow, I was thinking the other day I should attempt to extract my broken #3 and #7 ignition boot bolts from a job 2 years ago. Didn't realize it was usually those two that broke, thanks. If you ever get one of the many knocking or ticking 5.0's, there's a ton of us that would love to finally see the fix/answer to that once and for all.

[@kennywebb4907]

Did this trick on my 6.2L F-250 today, after my induction heater arrived. Thank you for putting this video out there, to help folks. The intake for a 6.2 is not cheap!!! Buying the heater for this was half the cost of the manifold!!

[@davevincent5024]

Brilliant! , this technique has so many other uses where manufacturers put these inserts into plastic and they almost always seize up , thank you again

[@urbanlumberjack]

Ford clearly does not want spark plugs changed. 97-03 too few threads in head. 03-08 spark plugs break in half. 09-14 ignition coil bolts break in half!

[@butlerweldingfabrication7209]

crazy right! your so right! its like does anyone at ford own a ford truck? come on ford!!

[@kitkimbrough9441]

WWHHYYYYY!!!!

[@DK-vx1zc]

nice tip.. also, if the insert wont hold, there are threaded inserts made by ez-lok, that have coarse outer threads, and machine threads inside. woodworkers use them... Love your channel... I have learned much from watching your videos.. You are a good guy!

[@MCM5595]

Started watching your videos before I started working at this ford dealer 6 months ago. Was with GM for 7 years. Finally had to use this trick, worked great, saved me from having to replace valve cover and advisors having to call back extended warranty for added parts!! THANK YOU!!!

[@rickhansen1753]

Just used this technique to fix this problem on a Transit with a 3.7L. Thank you so much for making and sharing this video!

[@bobbyt3358]

That's some mechanics right there. Country boy can survive. Thanks Brian if my 5.0 breaks I have great idea on the repair.

[@stephenmoxley3004]

Great video, Brian. Looks like this fix would work with any car that has a plastic valve cover and metal inserts for the hold-down bolts. This is also a good reminder to put anti-seize on those bolts.

[@cjlemay852]

Well, now...had this same issue this past weekend, quick plug change...yeah right. Great tutorial and can't wait to get this put into practice later today.

[@davea2288]

We use these inserts in the products we make. The brand we use are PEM inserts by Penn Engineering, just in case you may need to get some. I wouldn't be surprised that these are the brand that Ford uses in these covers.

[@BM-vj1px]

do you happen to know where eI can get the insert?

[@davea2288]

@@BM-vj1px We buy direct from Penn. But we buy on contract. You probably could buy direct too; I'd call them.

[@jeromeharrison7450]

Patron saint of ford repairs

[@SevenSixTwo2012]

Awesome tip with many possible applications where metal inserts in plastic are present, thank you!

[@kitcarbp777]

Induction heater solution is genius. Keep up the great work love this channel. I use to teach ASE techs for an OEM and you sir have great presentation skills and knowledge. Thanks.

[@djosbun]

Excellent tip, Brian!

[@dawsonknoll2716]

Just had #7 break off at work. This video saved us! Thank you sir!

[@ReyesBuilt]

Awesome video again brother, have became a huge fan of this channel!

[@lonniegetty313]

Thank you! I did not have a torch on hand but I did have a heat gun and it worked beautifully. Just have to heat the cover and the brass a little longer

[@christopherbrooke2142]

Glad to know it’s not just us 3v guys that have problems with spark plugs

[@G_Rapids]

Dude you’ve saved my ass more times than you know. Thank you

[@rodhogg8858]

On an unrelated topic Here’s a tip that may help if you have the problem I ran into. The problem was that the engine dip stick tube on my 2010 F150 4.6 3valve rusted out and I couldn’t get the dip stick in any more. The rust was worst where the tube passes the exhaust manifold. When I went to replace the tube it broke in three pieces with the stub end still stuck in the block and nothing left to pull the stub out with. After some thought I took a piece of 5/16 coarse thread threaded Rod about 4” long and locked two nuts together at the top and threaded it into the stub. The stub is swaged down just inside the block such that the threaded rod cuts into the inside and firmly attaches to the stub. You then take a 3/8 drive deep socket 16 mm size and place it over the threaded stud. Add two 5/16 flat washers and a 5/16 nut. Slowly turn the nut down the stud until the stub end is withdrawn from the block. The only other way to get the stud out would be to remove the oil pan which won’t come off unless you jack the engine up. Something you definitely want to avoid. anyway hope this helps anyone who runs into this problem.

[@spelunkerd]

I think this will be a valuable lesson, we have these kind of inserts everywhere in cars now. Thanks for posting!

[@NJTRUCK-j6v]

Worked great! Tried to take out the first two bolts, and they snapped. Now What, just like the video said. Followed the steps, up and running, now off to Ford to probably way overpay for new coil bolts that don't do what their supposed to in the first place. I sprayed the other 6 with WD, let it soak in, and they came out with no issues. A very big thank you for posting this video!!!

[@NJTRUCK-j6v]

Wasn't too bad... $3 each at the dealer.

[@phader4801]

Thanks for providing this fix! Ford should be providing an engineered fix like replacing all bolts with stainless steel bolts!

[@tyleryoung8823]

Beauty Fix ! The Ford Guru strikes again

[@donlwilliams358]

Just traded my 2016 5.0, 83k miles and check engine light for VCT cylinoid under the vale cover. I was able to get the check engine light off by adding 100% petroleum Lucas oil. I bought the 2.7 f150, ill never go back! I'm so impressed with that little twin turbo. Great videos!

[@traviso2038]

This!! This right here could have been very helpful on the last coyote tune up I did same issue #3 coil was the only one to break. Spent the better part of 30 minutes working the broken fastener out. The more you know.

[@robwielang597]

This saved me a lot of time and money! Thank You!

[@haidaguy1436]

Awesome tip! I put anti seize on my coil bolts when I did the plugs

[@jamestkirk1631]

Precision surgery. You're better than most doctors. And yours works!

[@RobertCiampa9112]

Customer "What's the labor for replacing spark plugs" Mechanic "1.5 to 4.0 Depending on what breaks"

[@mattt4183]

5.4 can go way north of 4 hours LOL

[@subterfusion4005]

Literally what the Ford dealer told me when i asked about changing the plugs in my 03 4.6. So i just waited till i blew one out of the head

[@Blue_Flame_Raptor]

Ford 6.2: hold my beer

[@AmericanRustWorker3369]

The v10 Triton engines were the worst, had to buy a spark plain extraction tool for certain years because the non adjustable spark plugs had ends that either got stuck in the head or fell down and punched holes in the pistons

[@AmericanRustWorker3369]

@The RealMathilda yes but it depends on where you get them ,you can also take the little diode out if the inside of them very easily , they usually fall out, stretch the spring a little and then put it back on just to see if it helps or not, a little road side trick I learned, you can get cheap ones on eBay, idk how good they are though

[@jarenbispala6505]

Thank you so much, this actually worked like a charm! Used the mini torch and took a while because I was so nervous to melt more of the valve cover. Took the time to anti-seize the other 7 while things were cooling!

[@jamesbernardo5890]

3rd one back on the driver's side snapped right off on me today... thanks Ford engineering!!

[@scottwebber652]

Mine too

[@jamesbernardo5890]

@@scottwebber652 I replaced everything with stainless hardware.

[@giovannycano3678]

Can you send the link where you got the metal ones please

[@sk.3551]

Just snapped 2 of mine today FML

[@dougbuckley2282]

Thanks for this worked my 6.2 and saved me lots of cash

[@BigZaddy2112]

In the process of doing this to my Ram Promaster 3.6L V6.....Cylinders 2 and 4 are notorious. I purchased a used valve cover from the local junkyard and will extract and insert them into the valve cover on my van. When I post my (how-to) on a Promaster, I will cite your video!!!! THANKS

[@curtisroberts9137]

Love my induction tool. Now I've got one more use for it. Thanks!

[@mikejones794]

Cant begin to thank you enough and also i was hoping that you may have some specific videos about the 4.6 liter police terceptor again thanks a million your videos are informative and easy to follow and learn from....

[@nickayivor8432]

What do you call KNOWLEDGEABLE and SUBSTANTIAL the answer is FordTechMakuloco Outstanding tutorial 👌 👏 👍 video Jaw breaking loved it 👌 👏 starts to finish 👏 👌 👍 thank you very much helpful .take care and have a great day FordTechMakuloco From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

[@mikeaho4143]

Great quick tip Brian. A true time saver.

[@jacobrenacs7655]

you sir are brilliant and saved me alot of money

[@fredmetcalf]

You do good work.....good techniques, imagination, organized thoughts , logical and sensible explanations......easy to understand and remember.....rgds, fm

[@timothybegeot5372]

Worked as shown. Thank you!!

[@davelewis2870]

I've never had that problem with the 5.0's, however I've had the issue multiple times on the 3.5's in the transit vans, always in bank 2. Usually the insert spins out before the bolt breaks though. I'll have to remember this for the next one.

[@jd-kv9in]

Great way to tackle those pesky broken bolts in plastic. Thanks. Now I won't have to curse Ford, engineers, and plastic.

[@RideOp74]

There are still plenty of reasons to curse Ford and their engineers lol.

[@stuckinnj9554]

Bravo - Pretty cool fix. Just a reminder not to remove the spark plug until this repair is completed. Unless you close off the spark plug tube, there is a risk of dropping something down the hole. Could make for a very bad day......

[@josephmay8337]

The real question is, Do you even need something holding down your coil? Some brands don't use anything but the tight fit in the hole, and the boot grabing the plug. This did happen to my 2011 years ago and I rigged a bracket, seated into one of the empty holes. Your method much cleaner, especially for a customer's car.

[@jsjizzaone3590]

Im def saving this for my 2020 F150 5.0 Coyote. Great video as usual thank you!!!

[@ReyesBuilt]

Pull them out and add a tiny bit of anti size so you don’t have to do this in the future

[@biggoof2597]

This video saved my butt today man good stuff thanks !

[@edwardberwind8544]

Very smart and informative. This is something I will remember.

[@mikechiodetti4482]

I like your repair! I'll pass this on.

[@thomasdaum1927]

Thanks , would have never thought of this myself !

[@edman1015]

WOW - Great Job - The life of a technician

[@The_Wood]

VERY good instructional and informative video. As usual, I might add. 👍🏻

[@mytriton54]

Excellent mechanic and a fantastic teacher!!!!

[@e.b.6766]

Nice trick!!! Thanks for that knowledge!!!

[@jaxj3626]

Just watched this and used this technique. Brilliant and easy. Only I used a bolt from a jeep to hold coil in.

[@jaxj3626]

Finally done about 3 hr job.if it wasn't for breaking a coil bolt maybe 2 hrs total.

[@gigiraymond9267]

Another brilliant idea from ford , Best thing to do is coat the bolts with anti seize when you buy the vehicle brand new .

[@appleiphone69]

Or never drive in the rain. 😂

[@4drhtrd]

Also cover the upper suspension openings with a shield/barrier like the eco boost has to keep all the road spray out of the engine compartment. That’s the cause of all the under hood corrosion in the first place.

[@FixitFred]

Great tip. Wish I had a mini ductor but thanks for the tips for use with a torch.

[@chieft3357]

Thanks for the tip. I've got a 2012 5.0L, I'll make sure I look out for that when I change plugs.

[@wayne-oo]

A great solution to that problem !!!

[@fordmud]

Also making up some rubber inner fenders really helps, it a shame ford didn't do it from the factory to keep water and mud off the engine. First thing I did to mine and the top of the engine is still nice and clean.

[@christuttle3980]

Thanks,changed my plugs 3 months ago lucky enough to not have one break

[@charlesbrewer4179]

Brian, thank you for another great tip. I think I'll remove all of my bolts and anti seize them. Hopefully they are not like the vehicle you were working on!

[@rogermadrange1724]

Nice fix! Thanks for sharing. Btw do you think blasting these bolts with penetrating oil before doing the job will do anything? Or would it just not be able to travel down thru all the rust?

[@stevenertle2876]

Hey great job is always I enjoy your channel keep up the good work forward power all the way I know they all had their issues without a doubt I've been a Ford man my whole life I've worked with them all and I just don't think there's a better truck then forward and I'm so glad you got rid of your Dodge lol good luck with the new

[@dhonnoll78]

Thank you very informative. I see this come up on occasion in the F-150 5.0 Coyote fb group

[@davidbradford5432]

Darn just trashed all my broken plastic intakes, should have saved some inserts .

[@ginamiller6015]

Very nice tip! Well done, thank you for sharing this!

[@Twobarpsi]

Great repair tip! Man, salt everywhere!!

[@anthonyogeen3222]

Great video. I went to do the plugs on an F150 i just bought & had the same problem. 3rd one back on each side was rusted bad. They snapped immediately. I was able to pull them with a torch and reset them. Please do a video on rusted out valve cover bolts

[@blainebennett]

Exactly how I have done them in the past. However sometimes the insert is too far gone to salvage, in those cases I would use Fusor Epoxy to glue a M5 nut into the insert hole. Have to limit the torque on the bolt as the nut doesn't quite have the surface area to hold it in place as the brass insert does.

[@jamesplotkin4674]

I'd probably epoxy a bolt made into a stud for this fix.

[@blainebennett]

@@jamesplotkin4674 Yep that would work well also. Just be sure to apply a good coat of anti seize to the whole surface of the stud after epoxied in place. In some cases I had the head of the factory bolt snap off but the coil was seized onto the shank of the bolt. It will break off the mounting ear of the coil if you are not careful. Had to apply heat and pull the coil off it's metal insert.

[@jamesplotkin4674]

@@blainebennett I have a love-hate emotional bond with Ford, but this is another (of several) situations which are totally avoidable. I'd hate to have to spend all day on this if several bolts broke and all I want to do is replace plugs. Sound familiar?

[@richszala2315]

Thanks buddy saved my butt thanks !!!

[@ultrasean18]

Thanks! You saved me a valve cover!

[@tsr7198]

Thank you! Very useful info for my 12 f150 5.0.

[@poppacapinya]

i have a 2019 f150 5.0l 31k miles on it im going to anti seize them puppies today,good tip brian

[@myriadtechrepair1191]

You could also take a 3D pen and add a little more plastic on the inside there to add a little more for it to grip on to. I do a similar repair on laptops.

[@williamgleaves1954]

I'd be sweating bullets doing that on my truck!

[@jgeorges3061]

Brian, AWESOME info/TIP U BEEN SHARING BROTHER THANKS.CHEEEEERS

[@robertlovelace82]

Long time watcher. Love how you take the time to make these videos. I have a question about a 2015 5.0 with a severe sludge problem. Vehicle still runs and has oil pressure but the sludge is affecting timing components etc. What methods would you perform to make an attempt to save a 5.0 with such problem. I have thought about overfilling engine with kerosene and flushing it several times and then using BG’s dynamic engine flush/cleaner product. After flushing I have the intent to pull oil pan as well and possibly the valve covers. Just looking for feedback.

[@marccrotty8447]

Robert. I think you have a good approach for cleaning the sludge. Pull all the plugs and crank it several times with kerosene in crankcase. Definitely pull the valve covers and clean to head best as possible. BG makes great products. I have used their transmission treatment but not engine flush. Make certain that the PCV and emissions system are operational. I have a 2017 5.0L and not had any issues with it at all. I change the oil frequently.

[@dustin9035]

Mine is about 28k, would you recommend removing the bolts now and put some antiseize on them? Not the spark plugs but the bolts?

[@Just2362]

Won't hurt it I would

[@FordTechMakuloco]

yes